Loose Charging Port on H800 Headset

The location of the screw holes here may help with disassembly.

Changing the USB connector will require SMT soldering experience and the right equipment.

I am on my third one .. headset works great, use it all day long but after a while the jack gets loose and then won't make the connection... design problem

It can be open and access to USB plug, but you will need tools to unsolder the plug and a replacement.

I have the same issue, now on both h800's so time to fix rather than keep buying new.

I assume the micro usb jack is only using the 2 power pins (5v & ground), making it a little less challenging.

And as I keep breaking these by getting out of the truck forgetting that it's plugged-in charging, x I need a design that is more forgiving.

I plan to salvage a female micro USB connector from a cable and solder it in with the new jack hanging about 2-3cm out of the headphones on a short stub of cable.

The idea is IF I forget again, at least the pull should be straight out and simply unplug, rather than some angle and break.

Will check back with progress...

Any progress on this?

Hey Guys.

My Port broke after like 4 Years now.

I ordered a new "Micro USB 5 Pin Female Connector" from ebay and tried to solder it in .But my soldering equipment is too big for this micro soldering.Also a magnifying Glass could be needed... ;) So i wasnt able to solder all the 5 pins on the board without soldering them together.Now i bend the 3 middle pins of the connector up and just soldered the both pins on the outside .Which should be 5v and ground right? I tried to charge it.The Led shows the charging animation ,slow orange blinking led light.Sometime it shows the charging led in just green and blinks quicker.When i unplug it and switch it on off ,then plug it back in it shows the right charging animation again.After 2 hours of charging i tested it.But after 5min i got the low battery chiming.Anyone know what could be wrong here? Is it charging to slow? Do some of the other pins need to be bridged maybe?I saw something like that on elsewhere.

Maybe someone can help :)

Greets and sorry for my spelling im not a native english speaker!

Patrick, I would think if the engineers wanted several adjacent pins connected they would have done so on the circuit board.

If you have access to a voltmeter,

should measure ~5v pins 1 to 5 with charger plugged in.

If the charging LED continues constantly when moving the cable... it would appear you have fixed the USB connector issue. Battery might be more suspect than charging circuitry.

You could consult the user manual for LED blink patterns...

BTW, your english is indistinghable from native.

Hello. I just bought a new Logitech H800. It had no instructions with it. While charging it must the headset be turned off or leave it on?

I have just fixed the problem in mine, I have a few observations. Of course, do it only if you know what you do, I do not take any responsibility if you mess up your headset/fry your computer etc.

Replacing the whole port might be counterproductive: most likely it gets broken off the board, like mine did, so it might be still in good shape. If so, it is much easier just to resolder the pins. Of course, if they are broken off or bent badly, orif the plastic part is damaged, it will not work.

The main problem is this: the port consists of a rather sturdy metal support, which is solidly mounted on the board. However, within it is a plastic part, which contains the plug/board pins. The issue is that the metal support holds the plastic part only with a kind of a bent metal tab, which in time gets bent off. Curiously, it seems it is much worse to push the USB plug with too much force than to pull it. If the tab is loose, then all that holds the plastic part is the solder, which understandably might break off quite easily if the connector is yanked.

To fix it, you need a VERY good magnifying lens or other means of magnification. I have used a cheap USB 40-1000x ‘microscope’ (just a webcam, really). A solder gun with a very fine tip would be quite useful, too, I managed with a regular one. I would say that a well-regulated solder gun is essential, I worked at 260 C. If you get it too hot, the plastic will melt and then it is game over - it is quite difficult to operate at that scale.

Soldering just the two external pins seems to have worked, although the DATA pins also have traces on the board (to some pots?). If you get lucky, it might be that what is left of the solder on the board/pin would be sufficient to remake the connection. It worked for one of my pins: I have put a good amount of flux on the pin, heated it up and it nicely reconnected. Of course, I expect it will be somewhat weaker. On the other side I had to put a tiny, and I mean, REALLY tiny amount of solder to make the connection. Make sure you do not bridge the pins, you might fry your USB computer/charging port and/or the headset!

What I did not do and I wish I did: I should have fixed better the plastic part to the metal mount, but I am not sure yet how. Still, I will avoid charging the set while I am using it…

Here’s an update to my last update

Turns out there are several styles of magnetic USB cables & plugs; some with 4 pins (5V, gnd, data+, data-), and others with just two (5V & ground).

The connectors with 4 pins are rectangular and don’t stay connected well. Since headphones don’t need data pins, and phones really don’t either nowadays the version with 2 pins for just charging is all that’s really needed. The 2-pin versions use bigger round rare earth magnets that really stick together alot stronger.

And then there’s variants on even the 2-pin type… straight and 90 deg. The straight type on the end of a cable present a lever-arm that can pry the connection apart and doesn’t swivel much, whereas the 90 deg. version really stays put at different angles and with stiffer cords. Still not well enough to wear the headphones while charging, but OK.

On eBay found sets with a common cable with a variety of plugs ( uUSB, USB-C, & iPhone Lightning) for about $5 from PRC. The round 90 deg. mag connector is the way to go, and so far have found compatibility between at least 2 vendors.

The plug in the pic is an iPhone type.