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The Nissan Altima is a mid-size automobile manufactured by Nissan, and is arguably a continuation of the Nissan Bluebird line, which began in 1957.

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Won’t go over 2rpm

My 2006 Nissan Altima won’t accelerate over 2RPM, when it goes above that it starts jerking, almost feels like it’s choking. I just changed the Camshaft Sensor because it wouldn’t accelerate when I pressed the gas pedal at all. It now goes, but only until it reaches about 21/2 Rpms. It has a new MAF sensor and just replaced the throttle body sensor. Please help I don’t know what else it could be. I’ve recently learned about something called fail safe mode? Could that be my problem? If so, how do I fix that??

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I would like to know why my nessan quest is smoothering down and fluddering out at opeerating tempture

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Why can't I get a answer or do you knot know

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If you don't know the answer my queestion just tell me

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Try researching on nissan forums...if you have cleared the codes and gone through the possible usual culprits i suspect it could be a clogged catalytic converter...read this link....

http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/quest/112...

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2003 murano revs up in park but wont when put into drive or reverse. what do you think it may be?

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It sounds like your car is in "limp" mode...that is to say it will drive but not accelerate nor go above 30 mph.

This is to protect the engine from further damage....long enough for you to get to a garage.You could try buying a OBD reset plug that clears all the fault codes and see if it runs properly or returns to limp mode.If it does then you need to have the codes read by a garage to pinpoint the problem...before it causes even more problems.Usually sensors are to blame , lambda...electronic throttles...intermittent connections.

I had a ford maverick do this and eventually discovered the throttle was electronic and a few hard blips on the throttle linkage with the engine switched off freed the problem and the limp mode disappeared.

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Mine is a 03 altima ...it was running fine then it would just die and would have to be re started .except if on the hwy at speed the engine would restart itself ...today though it died and i didnt realize it not being in the drivers seat .it was out front of a freinds running with air cond running .when i returned it had died and needed a jump ..upon getting home it ran fime but when i started it 2 hours later it drove 3 blocks and died again but this time it wont go over. 200rpm. It stutters then dies then restarts easily but has no rpm . i caint figure it out please. Help me. I need this car to continously. Get to my cardiologist ..heart specialists.

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Also it sends no code to my obd II. Reader because of the dead battery earlier. How do i get it to reproduce a code when it wont stay running ?

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Turn it on g f or about30 min it should read

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It definitely sounds like it is in ‘limp home’ mode … this keeps the revs below 2000 - 2500 RPM.

It could be a number of things … but as you have already replaced a few components it makes sense to reset the ECU and then see if the error persists. So … with the drivers door open disconnect the positive battery terminal then press the brake pedal a few times to make sure there’s no electrical power left in the system. Keep the battery unplugged for at least 10 minutes before connecting it back up and starting the car.

If the problem still happens then you will need to get the error codes checked with an OBD scanner

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So I know it's late but everyone says to check the MAF sensor. If you've already done A-Z then it's probably the rubber boot right before the MAF. I don't have the money right now to do A-Z and decided to look around that rubber boot and found a 3 in gash right on the backside that i just super glued and taped over to until i can get paid to be able to replace it. It was causing a vacume leak and causing that sensor to not read properly

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I experienced the same problem last night. I thought it was because I forgot to put engine oil in my car, so I did that today. Still had the problem. I then went to an inspection shop where I was told it could be a number pf problems. He said I should disconnect my battery terminal for a few minutes because the vehicle entered “limp mode", which prevents you from damaging your engine (or something in that regard). I disconnected it for about 5 minutes and my check engine light went out. Its like a code that you reset by restarting the battery beginning with your battery terminal. My vehicle is operating normally now and I feel so relieved that it could be fixed my something that simple. I was thinking I'd need a new catalytic converter after doing research. I hope this helps you all as well. It's worth a shot.

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I want to thank you, this is the exact same thing that happened to my car, I took my car to 3 mechanics they did not want to touch my car , I did exactly what you said and it worked perfectly. It sat it for 1 week. I couldn’t even travel to nursing school. Thank you so much !

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Customer had the same problem he took it to 3 different shops had crank sensor throttle body MAF sensor , spark plugs ECT, I found it to be a bad output sensor it was reading 18mph in park and it wasn't giving a code, replaced output sensor car ran great

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Mine started horrible. It was missing and would clear up in about 5 seconds. Then it ran fine. The next day it went into lump mode. I ran the codes and ot was misfires and cam shaft position sensor. Replaced sensor. It was still on limp mode. Pulled both battery cables and water 20 minutes. Fired it up ....runs great, no limping anymore either. Back to being a beast.

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