PS4 crashing and turn off

It sounds like your PS4 is overheating. Attempt to clean the fan and apply new thermal paste into the heatsink. It is closing intentionally by itself to prevent damage.

I have this problem with my PS4 pro I had it for less than a year and my console freezes and shuts down then the light blinks blue and shuts down and I wipe out everything and having this issue , reinstalled software and still having problems and I unplugged everything for 2 mins and not working but I might be able to use my warranty?

One reason for older PS4s to spontaneously quit is that the RTC clock battery is weak. The RTC battery may be weak but still keep the proper time. If your PS4 is more than 3–4 years old and suffers from random quits. try replacing the clock battery.

I have a seven year old PS4 (original) that had been solid for years, then it developed a problem where at first it wouldn’t always wake from sleep: the PS button would cause a beep, then the controller LED would blink white (very light blue) about 10 times but the unit would be not turn completely on. Hitting PS button again just causes more white blinks. The top LED is blue but the unit not working. yet also not crashed. Warm air will come case fan port, I looked into possible HDMI port problems, but a force reset always restored operation and HDMI socket and cable are fine. As more time went by, this got worse. Then the PS4 started quitting at random times, in between games, then in the middle of games. It finally became unusable, quitting in middle of updates, etc.

With the help of iFixit teardown guide, I pulled out the mainboard and replaced the RTC clock battery, and now it runs fine. My unit was clean and sign and showed no signs of overheating. It would often die at a cold start.

This repair was easier than I expected and anyone comfortable with tools can succeed. There are a couple of point of the disassembly which will seem challenging, but the only way to go wrong is by rushing and forcing rather than patience and careful work.

Before you start on battery replacement: DOUBLE CHECK THAT YOUR CONTROLLER USB CABLE IS IN GOOD SHAPE. IF IT’S BAD IT CAN ALSO CAUSE WAKE WEIRDNESS. If USB cable is good, then continue with RTC battery replacement.

iFixit PS4 Teardown
Vue éclatée de la PlayStation 4

NOTES & WARNINGS

1. RTC (realtime clock) battery is CR2032, a standard PC mainboard battery. It snaps into a socket. You want a bare battery, not one with a pigtail. Cost $0.50c
2. When replacing the RTC battery, be very careful to not pry the battery socket from the mainboard: put downward pressure on the edge of the socket near where you pry the battery. It should pop out without a lot of force. Clean the surfaces of the new battery of finger prints before installing.
3. There’s no way to avoid a complete teardown. You have to remove the mainboard completely, including from the CPU cooler. Have thermal paste on hand. I like Noctua NT-H1 which is cheap and effective. Basic Arctic Silver is also good stuff.
4. The removal of the top case right before the EMI shield was the trickiest part because some force was needed to separate the plastic tabs holding it together; this was mentioned in the guide. Ensure you got all the screws then try pulling on from different directions and when you hit the sweet-spot it will pop right off.
5. My unit had a small phillips screw for the EMI shield that wasn’t mentioned in the guide. It was in the power-supply area of the case, after the power-supply is removed. Double-check if the EMI shield doesn’t come off easily.
6. WARNING: Be sure to follow the guide advice about releasing the CPU heatsink tension plate by alternating each of the two screws a few turns at a time. You don’t want to damage the CPU. This said, it’s not likely you will wreck it. Just use extra care at this step. Same with re-assembly.
7. WARNING: Don’t wreck any cable connectors. Pay close attention to the details in the guide. Connectors will all release and re-seat easily.
8. Clean the old thermal paste from the CPU and heatsink using alcohol until the CPU and head-spreader are clean. When re-assembling, use sufficient new paste to ensure the whole surface of the chip is covered. Err on the side of more-than-enough… but you don’t need a huge gross blob.
9. Clean the blower and cooler with canned air. You want to be able see light through the fins inside the cooler housing. Don’t take the blower apart unless it is extremely dirty or the blower fan is jammed.
10. I had a bit of a scare at first restart after re-assembly when the boot chime sounded but the screen stayed blank. Sounds revealed it was booted but no video. I forced shutdown and restarted and display came up and all has been perfectly stable since.
11. There was a time strangeness: Time gets reset when the RTC battery is replaced. I set it using the system menu. Then the next day I noted the time was a few hours wrong, so I set it again. All is fine since. Might have been a time zone glitch. I use the internet option to sync time with web.
12. PARTS LEFT OVER: At complete disassembly, I found a broken case screw stanchion, so I ended up with an extra screw when I was done, but I don’t recall breaking anything… It didn’t matter at all went back together well.

Final word, PS4 works like new and very enjoyable again! Good luck.