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Modèle A1419 / Fin 2012 / Processeur 2.9 & 3.2 GHz Core i5 ou 3.4 GHz Core i7, ID iMac13,2

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Making iMac headless. iMac GPU & CPU issues

Hey Guys,

There are a couple posts on this but not conclusive to my situation so thought I would ask this anyway.

So I am using conferencing software called Zoom Rooms that would normally be setup on a limbless/headless Mac Mini with a projector as display for conferencing.

I have an iMac 27” with broken screen which can serve this purpose since it cannot be used for much else but, even with mirroring options enforced on the display settings the software it’s self recognizes 2 displays - the broken screen & projector, so that unfortunately participants cannot be seen on the projector.

There is a workaround in the software but it has to be manually set every time a meeting is started. I have tried disconnecting the iMac screen internally but what seems to happen is it uses the CPU for displaying to the projector and not the GPU causing the fan to go crazy and visuals and performance to be jittery and sluggish.

Is there a work-around for this issue?

I saw a post about a VGA hack using resistors but not sure if that would work due to the projector already using a display port > HDMI output.

I can see that a Mac Mini would not run into this issue due to it being designed to only use an external display via GPU and iMac’s quite the opposite.

Any info on this strange attempt at using a half dead mac would be greatly appreciated.

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Sadly, I don't think there is a solution here. You are facing a problem on who is active first. The internal will always be the primary display.

While it’s not ideal have your thought on getting the display issue fixed and/or look at selling it to get another Mac Mini?

Can you fill us in on what’s wrong with the display, maybe it won’t be too costly to repair.

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The problem you are having is with the temperature sensor cable for the broken screen. When the screen is detached, the sensor port on the logic board registers a problem and in response the fans power to maximum and the system slows to a crawl. If you detach the sensor pad from the back of the broken monitor and adhere it to something like an installed metal hard drive case (leaving the other end plugged into its logic board port), the system will register temperate feedback - hopefully within the accepted heat range - and your headless iMac should work perfectly.

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Sol sera éternellement reconnaissant.
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