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A washer series by Maytag with a low rate of customer satisfaction and a high rate of failure. These washers have the model numbers MVWB300xxx or MVWX300xxx.

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Bleach isn't being pulled out of the Dispenser.

My Bleach Dispenser parts are totally clear. I can push a Q-Tip down through the hole inside the Bleach Dispenser compartment and see it exit through the bottom of the Bleach Dispenser tray, so nothing is clogged. There must be another reason why Bleach isn't being pulled out of the Dispenser. I tried to understand the function of the Automated tests in Diagnostic Mode, but after the tests run, there's no explanation of where to look for an error code. My display remains blank.

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@mdamico

What is the model number of the washer?

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Jayeff: The Maytag Model Number is MHWE201YW00. FYI, after a "Whites" wash the bleach just stays in the Bleach Dispenser un-diluted.

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Hi @mdamico ,

Seems as though there's not enough pressure or no water through the dispenser to flush the bleach into the machine.

I realize that you tried the diagnostics, but here's the Tech sheet for your model anyway, just in case you didn't have it.

The washer has a dual cold water inlet valve (as well as a hot water inlet valve) so perhaps you should check if both are working OK.

The wiring diagram on p.15 shows where they connect to the control board so that you can test them there using an Ohmmeter, or test them directly at the valves. Disconnect the power to the machine when testing with an Ohmmeter.

Their resistance value is 1K Ohm (1000 Ohms) (see p.7)

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I Ohmed out the coils of all three water solenoid valves and they are all about the same resistance. I would need to make a plug-in Pig Tail if I wanted to test each valve separately right there at the valve. If I understand the intent of the Automated Tests I could maybe verify the valve operation that way, but the Tech Sheet is pretty useless in terms of determining if the tests pass or fail; the text in that tech sheet doesn't explain that. So I did the Automated tests but don't know how to tell if they passed or failed. The display was blank after the tests finished.

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@mdamico

You should be able to test each valve separately from the control board. Disconnect from the control board and then test on the wires to the valves

The wiring diagram on p.15 shows the 2 cold water valves (VC1 & VC2) being connected to VH7 1-3 & 5-7 and the hot water valve (VH) to D16 1-3

Does the bleach clear from the dispenser when doing the diagnostic test?

According the the test program on p.6 :

Control Action - Fill by cold water via bleach compartment (4 liters).

Actuators to be checked - Double valve (VC1 and VC2 at same time)

par

To test the valves by applying a voltage to the connector end that went to the control board, would I need to insert wires into the connector contacts or find a mating receptacle and make a test lead. Also, can I assume that the excitation voltage is 120 Volts?

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@mdamico

The valve is 120V AC so it is always best to use the safetest method when connecting voltage to see if it works.

Just wondering it it would be easier to try and measure the voltage being supplied to the valve when the machine is running, either in diagnostics or normal mode i.e. at the board or at the valve or both points?

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Michael D'Amico sera éternellement reconnaissant.
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