Why is the carousel not turning?

Hi my husband just fixed my carousel it had the same problem of not turning. He took the top canopy of, plugged it in turned it on, just to see what was going on. The problem with mine was one of the gears getting stuck on a grey electrical wire that ran under the gears.He lifted the gear slightly and now it works fine. Hope this helps someone out there.

Liz.

I tried glueing the gears but the glue would not hold. I did find that if you go to a hobby shop that sells drones and r/c helicopters, they sell bags of these gears for about $10. Of the 10 or so gears in the bag, a couple were just the right size. Take your broken gear from the carousel to a hobby shop and ask for help, and you should find what you need. The gears just press on to the shafts and are held in place by their tight fit.

Used a rubber band of same approximate size to replace o-ring, works so far

I fixed the main gear that is attached to a pin and the main pulley. This gear cracked and I tried the baking soda and super glue, but it never realigned appropriately. I bought a bag of assorted plastic gear set on Amazon and found one that matched! I had to take a tiny pair of scissors to scrape and make hole bigger to fit on pin. I finally got it! Everything works again! I’ve had this thing since 1999 and I’m not worried about the plastic gear cause the one that’s in there is plastic. I hope this comment helps someone! Cost? 7.99

I was able to remove the top using the instructions given by scheuermann12345@yahoo.de and found that the o-ring that is used as a drive belt between the motor pulley and the gear-box pulley was broken. I am trying to find one and when I do, it should work again. is it a 1 3/4" by 1/32" o-ring.

Lance Smith lance.r.smith28@gmail.com

My carousel did not turn. Disassembled and founded first gear on the main drive shaft broken as reference above by scheuermann12345@yahoo.de whre do you suggest I find such a small bass replacement gear and then securty it so it does not spin on the shaft.

It took me about 2 hours (Becuase I started from the bottom thinking thats where the motor and gears were) WRONG(Don't waste your time there is nothing there but electrical). but after removing the top I discovered a gear assembly held in place by a screw and nut. Using pinch pliers or a small wrench to remove the nut, will allow access under the flywheel. From here its a piece of cake visually inspect the gears **My issues was one gear was not catching after some minor adjustments (I.E. pushing the gears into the top securely I felt it slip back into place. A visual inspection of the gear components should tell you were the issue is. If none of the gears are moving I recommend checking your motor.

Hi Anyone looking to dismantle the rubber point ON TOP of the carousel. THINK of it as a mushroom. The stem goes down into&towards the roof. I thought of it differently and was surprised to find the piece looking like a mushroom( stem & all). This means you must scrap, CAREFULLY, around The roof side like you are removing a cake from its pan. Hope this helps in removing the top.

I used a pony tail holder to replace the rubber band. Works like a charm.

I am missing a little brass gear which is stopping it rotate, I've looked everywhere an can't find what I'm looking for, can some one please point me in the right direction.

I have a Mr Christmas carousel but it has lighted poles on the top which stop me from opening or removing the top. I can hear the motor but it does not spin it lights up and makes sound but does not spin

How to remove the top roof from my carousel?

It's not turning

Thank you

If you can't find a gear (or don't want the hassle of looking), remove the broken gear (they usually break from an "O" shape, into a "C") -- measure the metal shaft, and select a precision drill bit the same size or very slightly smaller (one or two thousandths). Slide your gear onto the drill bit 1/2 inch from the plain end. Now, hold the spiral end of the bit in pliers (or just the tip in your fingers if you're brave), carefully heat the plain end of the bit with a micro butane torch (take care to keep the flame away from the gear!) until the gear center begins to melt, and the C closes back into an O. Stop heating immediately when the broken gap is mostly closed, and the gear is molten about halfway towards the teeth. Quickly while it is molten spin the drill bit in your fingers checking to make sure the gear is still straight, untilted and non-eccentric. If you spin it while heating you can more easily control keeping the gear straight, and are less likely to burn your fingers. You may have to heat it a couple of times to get the gear straight, taking care not to overheat it. When the gear spins straight and "non-wobbly" (that's a technical term), allow the bit to cool and remove the gear. Take a small file and roughen the metal shaft where the gear is supposed to go. The shaft must be clean and oil-free. Place a SMALL drop of superglue on the shaft, slide the gear onto the shaft into place and rotate it to distribute the superglue. Bonding is almost instant so rotate as you slide the gear on.

Gears are usually high density polyethylene (white, but the molten plastic is clear), and will not bond to superglue; but your drill bit should leave enough rough surface for the glue to grab. (If you have a round needle file, slide it in and out of your newly restored hole in the gear to add a few up and down ridges to help the glue, do NOT rotate either). The superglue will provide enough of a bond to work. I've used this approach to fix anything from alarm clocks to Takara Animated Eggs. (The eggs often break BOTH parts on the shaft, one part is the winding ratchet, the other part is the pulley that is attached to the winding string -- I heat the actual shaft twice, fixing each part one at a time.)

You now have a working gear without having to search for a replacement, and because your drill bit is larger than the original hole, the gear has much less stress than it did (which is why it broke). The procedure is easier than it sounds, just watch the gear and stop heating it immediately when the center melts and the broken ends close mostly together (a tiny gap is okay).