Introduction
This guide is most accurate for the 2002-2004 Ford Focus SVT Zetec interference motor with VCT, however it can be adapted for use with all 1998-2004 Zetec motors. This must be changed preemptively to avoid engine damage on interference motors, and forums recommend replacement at 90,000 miles. Careful care must be taken to follow proper procedure, failure could result in serious engine damage. This is a very involved repair, and if you are not familiar with car repair seriously consider having this professionally installed. Always wear safety glasses, ensure the battery is disconnected, and the vehicle is properly supported while working. Attached is the PDF guide I followed to complete this repair.
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SAFETY FIRST!
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Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning to work
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A 10mm wrench makes quick work of the battery connector
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Jack up the car
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Remove the four lug nuts holding on the tire. They are a 19mm
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There are 2 snaps and one screw holding on the splash shield
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The top two are a Phillips #2 located directly behind the tire
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The one attached to the bumper is a Torx
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Pull back the splash guard for better visibility
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There is a cover protecting the Accessory Belt
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There are two 10mm bolts holding this splash guard on, one in the front and one in the back
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Relocate the coolant overflow and power steering resevoirs
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There is one 10mm bolt holding the coolant overflow reservoir to the frame
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There is a snap tab located behind the coolant overflow reservoir holding it in place
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The power steering reservoir will just lift out
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Both can be pulled gently to the side
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There are four 8mm bolts holding down the spark plug cover
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Gently lift it out of the way
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The connector for the VCT Solenoid will need to be unplugged
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There is a small metal tab holding the connector on
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Use a screwdriver to pry upward on the metal tab or squeeze the metal tab and pull upward to remove it.
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The connector will just pull off
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Pull the wire back out of the way
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There are four 8mm bolts holding on the upper timing belt cover
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This exposes the timing blet
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This belt is cracking, indicating it needs to be replaced
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Gently twist and pull straight up to remove the spark plug connectors
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Pull them gently back out of the way
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Using a 15mm wrench, rotate the tensioner assembly clockwise releasing tension on the belt
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Slip the belt gently off the pulleys and out of the engine bay
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There are three 13mm bolts holding the water pump pulley to the water pump
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You can use a strap wrench to prevent the pulley from rotating
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You can also use a flat head screwdriver to prevent rotation
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During reassembly, snug the bolts to hand tight, install the accessory belt, then torque down the bolts
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Gently remove the pulley
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There are ten 8mm bolts holding the valve cover down
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These bolts must be removed from outside to inside, working diagonally
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On reassembly these bolts must be torqued in two stages, working from inside to outside
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On the first stage, tighten to 2 Nm
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On the second stage, tighten to 7 Nm
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Disconnect the vacuum hose going to the intake
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Using a block of scrap wood between a hydraulic jack and the oil pan, use the jack to support the engine
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Mark the position of the motor mount relative to the car frame with a sharpie
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There are three 15mm bolts holding the motor mount to the car frame.
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There are two 18mm nuts holding the motor mount to the engine
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There are three 15mm bolts and one T50 bolt holding the middle timing belt cover in place
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There is one 18mm bolt holding the harmonic balancer pulley in place
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After the bolt is removed, the pulley should slide off
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There are two 10mm bolts holding the lower timing belt cover in place
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The removal of this cover fully exposes the remainder of the timing belt
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The following steps illustrate how to align the engine to Top Dead Center (TDC)
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You will need the proper bar and pin tool to check the timing.
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After putting the harmonic balancer pulley back on (you do not have to torque it down), use the 18mm bolt and a wrench to turn the engine clockwise. The engine should move with relative ease, if it does not move ensure that the car is in neutral. Do not use excess force!
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You may want to rest a wooden dowel in the spark plug hole of piston #1 to observe its movement
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You will reach TDC when piston #1 is at its highest point and the exhaust valve is just about to open
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When you are at TDC, the timing bar should slide into the slot in both camshafts
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During the compression stroke, the intake valve will have just closed. This is not TDC. The timing bar will not fit
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Underneath the exhaust manifold there is a 13mm plug where the crankshaft stopper must be inserted. Use a wrench to remove the stud
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Using the longer stopper, fully insert and screw it in until snug.
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This will prevent the crankshaft from moving clockwise past TDC. With the stopper in place rotate the engine clockwise until it no longer turns. The crankshaft will be at exactly TDC.
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With the crankshaft stopper in place, rotate the engine clockwise until it no longer moves. The timing bar should slide into place with relative ease. We are now at TDC
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If the bar does not slide in easily, check that you are indeed at TDC and not at the top of the compression stroke
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If you are at TDC, the timing bar may still not quite fit. As the belt ages it stretches, causing slight variations in the timing. Using a proper sized open end wrench, you can rotate the cams slightly to get the bar into place
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The camshafts are keyed to be held with open end wrenches between cylinders #1 and #2
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The intake camshaft is a 1"
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The exhaust camshaft is a 1 1/4"
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Due to slight variations in the the spacing between timing belt teeth, we must loosen but not remove the camshaft sprockets. The intake sprocket bolt is hidden inside of the VCT gear, and the cover must be removed to expose it.
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There is a T55 Bolt holding the exhaust sprocket in place. While holding the camshaft with a proper open end wrench, loosen but do not remove this bolt. This will allow the camshaft sprocket to rotate.
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There is a T55 cap on the VCT gear. Unscrew it to expose the E18 bolt holding the exhaust camshaft sprocket in place with a proper open end wrench.
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After all of the oil is drained, loosen the E18 bolt holding the intake sprocket in place while holding the camshaft with a proper open end wrench
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During reassembly this bolt will need to be torqued to 37 Nm
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During reassembly this bolt will need to be torqued to 68 Nm
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With both sprockets loose, place the timing bar back into the camshafts to ensure they remain at TDC
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It is recommended that the tensioner and idler pulleys be changed at the same time as the timing belt.
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There is one 10mm bolt holding the tensioner pulley in place
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There is one 15mm bolt holding the idler pulley in place
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The belt should slide off
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This is the hole where the tensioner pulley's tab should slide into on reassembly
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After rotating the crankshaft clockwise until it no longer moves to ensure it has remained at TDC, and the timing bar is inserted on the camshafts to ensure that they remained at TDC, we can begin to install the new timing belt.
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Begin by installing the new tensioner, tightening the 10mm bolt until it is hand tight
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Ensure that the tab on the pulley has fallen into its proper slot
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Ensure that the tensioner adjusting washer is in the 4 o'clock position
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Install the new idler pulley, torquing the bolt to 25 Nm
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Starting on the crankshaft sprocket, slip the belt around it, working clockwise around the tensioner pulley, intake sprocket, exhaust sprocket, then idler pulley, all while keeping the belt under tension
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With the belt installed, insert a 6mm hex key into the tensioner adjusting washer
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Rotate the washer counterclockwise to tension the belt
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During this process the tension indicator will move clockwise
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Continue rotation until the tension indicator has reached the point where the mark on the tab is centered between the forks of the indicator
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While preventing the tensoiner adjusting washer from moving, torque the 10mm bolt to 25 Nm
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With the new belt installed and tensioned, we must now torque the camshaft sprockets
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After removing the timing bar, while holding the camshaft with the proper wrench, torque the intake cam to 120 Nm
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After removing the timing bar, while holding the camshaft with the proper wrench, torque the exhaust cam to 80 Nm
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Remove the timing bar and crankshaft stopper.
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Using the 18mm bolt on the crankshaft, rotate the engine 2 complete revolutions.
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When you get close to the second complete revolution, reinsert the stopper pin. See Step #22.
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Rotate the crankshaft until it hits the stopper pin.
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Attempt to reinsert the timing bar. If it slides right in, your engine is 100% in time! Congratulations! Go ahead and try this check again in any multiple of 2 complete rotations just to be triple sure.
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VCT or Variable Cam Timing allows the intake camshaft to rotate relative to the camshaft sprocket. The VCT system must be in positive dead stop for the engine to be 100% in time.
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With the intake sprocket torqued, and the timing bar removed, attempt to rotate the intake camshaft with a proper open end wrench counterclockwise while holding the VCT housing with a strap wrench. The intake camshaft should not move. If so, you are at positive dead stop.
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Rotate the camshaft clockwise no more than 1/4 of a rotation. You will hear oil sputter and drain from the VCT system. Rotating more than 1/4 of a rotation could result in permanent engine damage.
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Attempt this counterclockwise rotation again. When you reach the limit of motion, you are at positive dead stop.
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If your VCT gear is at positive dead stop and your intake camshaft is at TDC (the bar slides in) then torque the cap to 37 Nm
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Once you are convinced you engine is 100% in time, begin reassembly following proper torque specs starting on Step #18 and working backwards.
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Start the car up and let it warm up. Take it for a test drive, briefly running the engine all the way through to its highest RPM
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Be sure to follow proper torque specifications.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. Be sure to follow proper torque specifications.
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5 commentaires
What an absolutely fantastic guide. Excellent pics and instructions. This is the best guide I have ever used! I’ve been a mechanic for over 60 years and this is the best! Great job! Thank You!
I did not expect to see this guide on iFixit. What a detailed and great step-by-step guide for the service all SVT Focus owners dread.
Excellent presentation with very good insights and cautions. A couple of thoughts on improvements. 1) The factory workshop manual recommends loosening the water pump bolts prior to removing the serpentine belt, which eliminates the need for the strap wrench as recommended here. 2) When reassembling I waited to install the motor mount until after I had installed the serpentine belt. You get better access to that very tight area without the mount in the way. Otherwise this is a great addition to the factory manual which I had access to for this repair.
