Introduction

Utilisez ce guide pour remplacer ou mettre à niveau votre disque dur afin de disposer de davantage d'espace de stockage.

  1. Retournez votre iMac sur une table en plaçant le bas de l'appareil face à vous.
    • Retournez votre iMac sur une table en plaçant le bas de l'appareil face à vous.

    • Desserrez l'unique vis Phillips au centre de la trappe d'accès.

    • Cette vis est captive dans la trappe d'accès.

    • Retirez la trappe d'accès de votre iMac.

    The grid won't fall off by itself. You'll have to help it. Use the smallest screwdriver you have; the Torx 6 worked fine for me. It should enter in one of the many holes composing the grid. Use it as a lever to ploy the grid a little bit. You may catch it with your fingers and that's it.

    Be carefull not to damage the hole by a too strong leverage.

    Laurent - Réponse

    much more safer to use duct tape, instead of torx 6. (glue it along the length of the grid and pull). it will loose instantly and smooth;)

    Hofmann78rus - Réponse

    Anyone know a guide to replace the plastic piece this screw connects to? I accidentally forgot this step - went to remove the front bezel and bent the plastic piece the access door connects to.

    Jason Augustin - Réponse

  2. La vitre est fixée au cadre avant par quatorze aimants répartis sur son périmètre.
    • La vitre est fixée au cadre avant par quatorze aimants répartis sur son périmètre.

    • Collez une ventouse au niveau d'un angle de la vitre et une autre ventouse à l'angle opposé.

    • Pour fixer une ventouse, commencez par la positionner avec la poignée mobile parallèle à la surface de la vitre. Tout en maintenant légèrement la ventouse contre la vitre, soulevez la poignée mobile jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit parallèle à l'autre poignée.

    • Si la ventouse n'adhère pas à la vitre, essayez de les nettoyer, l'une et l'autre, à l'aide d'un solvant doux.

    A good alternative to the two heavy duty suction cups is a regular household plunger.

    Russell Knight - Réponse

    Also, 2" wide packing tape. Maybe a 6 or 8" piece, folded in the middle to give you say, a 1-2" "handle". Make a pair of these. They look like a capital T but with a short vertical part (the handle), and a wide top I the sticky wings). Get the good 3M tape, it's strong, and it peels off clean without leaving any glue from the screen.

    Barry Coyle - Réponse

    for me one household plunger did the trick!

    Ronald Huygen - Réponse

    • Soulevez délicatement la vitre de l'iMac.

    • Plusieurs broches de positionnement sont disposées sur le pourtour de la vitre. Pour éviter de les arracher, veillez à soulever la vitre bien droit lors de la dépose.

    • Nettoyez soigneusement l'écran LCD et la face intérieure de la vitre avant le remontage, car la présence de poussière ou d'empreintes digitales pourrait gêner la visibilité une fois l'appareil sous tension.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Retirez les 12 vis suivantes par lesquelles le cadre avant est fixé au boîtier arrière :

      • Huit vis Torx T8 13 mm.

      • Quatre vis Torx T8 25 mm.

    • Sur la version 24" de l'iMac Intel modèle A1225, les deux vis centrales du bas sont longues (26 mm), les quatre vis situées sur les côtés (deux à gauche, deux à droite) sont de taille moyenne (18 mm) et les six autres vis (quatre en haut, deux dans les angles inférieurs) sont courtes (14 mm).

    I would strongly suggest taping the screws down on a piece of paper towel or cloth in the same order you take them out, as there are different lengths in no particular order and they don't all fit into just any hole. Unless you keep track of which hole each screw belongs, there is no other way of knowing. I stress taping because I didn't tape mine down and after bumping the table I was working on they scattered, leaving me to guess.

    Len - Réponse

    Even better, use an ice cube tray to keep the screws from each step together.

    maccentric - Réponse

    how about using the magnets near the screws to keep their positions?

    Andy - Réponse

    I use an 18 count egg carton (or two) and label each egg slot with a Sharpie. Works great.

    airira - Réponse

    As a rule with iFixit repairs, for years I've been printing the guides, applying scotch magic tape near each picture (which allows me to reutilise the paper prints in the future), neatly putting the appropriate screw next to their picture and taping them down with scotch magic tape.

    Even if I have to wait for spare parts, this allows me to neatly file the guide + screws in a copy safe and a binder (or in a cardboard filing box together with the rest of the parts) for later reassembly. Hardly any mistake possible...

    Bart Van Dessel - Réponse

    I think the caption on the picture is wrong here for 24" iMacs - it says: "On the 24" iMac Intel Model A1225, the bottom center two screws are long (26mm), four on sides (two left, two right) are medium (18mm), and the remaining 6 (four top, two bottom corners) are short (14mm)." I think actually bottom centre two are long, then all the rest are medium apart from the two either side of the CD/DVD drive

    HBloomfield - Réponse

    I print out the steps. Get a roll of scotch tape ready. Every screw, or set of screws I remove, I lay on some tape, and then tape them to the number on the directions. Then you have each screw labeled, with direction, and in order, or reassembly. Just working backwards in the directions.

    Barry Coyle - Réponse

    • Le cadre avant est toujours relié à l'iMac par le câble du microphone.

    • Soulevez avec précaution le bord supérieur du cadre avant hors du boîtier arrière.

    • Après avoir libéré le bord supérieur du cadre avant, faites pivoter ce dernier vers le support et sortez-le du boîtier arrière.

    • Pour accéder au reste de l'ordinateur, déplacez le cadre avant en le faisant pivoter et posez-le au-dessus du bord supérieur de l'iMac.

    • Lors du remontage du cadre avant, commencez par placer le bord inférieur au niveau du boitier arrière, puis abaissez le bord supérieur dans l'iMac.

    Contrary to the pictures, to lift the front bezel off, start at top of the computer screen lifting up while apply a little bit of pressure to the foam in the upper corners of the screen. This will give you the leverage needed to get the bezel to lift up. Be careful to not pull to fast, as the camera cable is still attached.

    armand - Réponse

    you'll need to add this step in all the other tutorials about iMac 20" EMC 2210, where it is missing ; they all jump from step 5 to step 6, which is a little annoying...

    Armel h - Réponse

    Easy way to remove bezel, insert the longest screws a quarter turn into the two top most edge screw slots. Use the screws as anchors to press against as you pull the bezel toward you. Then a simple twist to remove the screws, and the rest of the bezel comes off easy.

    armand - Réponse

    • Débranchez le connecteur du câble du microphone, en retirant la bande adhésive si nécessaire.

    • Pour installer correctement le cadre avant, enfoncez le câble du microphone et le connecteur dans l'espace vide à côté du support vidéo.

    During reinstallation of the LCD panel, be sure that the iSight microphone cable does not become trapped behind the panel.

    Ocean Yamaha - Réponse

    I actually didn't have to remove the cable. With the iMac laying on its back, just rotate the front bezel (bottom edge rotating around top edge) so that it's laying upside down, above the iMac. When reassembling, just rotate back into place.

    Brian Tsai - Réponse

    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 5,3 mm du connecteur LCD.

    • Tenez fermement la languette sur le dessus du connecteur et tirez-la vers le haut pour sortir le connecteur de la prise.

      • Veillez à tirer la languette, et pas le câble du connecteur.

    remove the 8 screws (torx) that is holding the screen.

    Gideon Lamprecht - Réponse

    • Retirez les huit vis Torx T8 qui fixent l'écran au boîtier arrière.

    • L'iMac que vous visualisez sur la photo est le 20'', mais l'emplacement des vis devrait être à peu près le même.

    Ajouter un commentaire

  3. Répandez la magie de Noël
    Obtenez 12 $ de réduction sur les commandes de 50 $ ou plus avec le code FIXMAS12
    Répandez la magie de Noël
    Obtenez 12 $ de réduction sur les commandes de 50 $ ou plus avec le code FIXMAS12
    • Placez une main de chaque côté en dessous de l'écran et soulevez-le suffisamment pour pouvoir accéder aux connecteurs à l'intérieur de l'ordinateur.

      • N'essayez pas de retirer complètement l'écran, car il est encore relié au reste de l'appareil.

    • Tout en tenant l'écran d'une main, localisez et débranchez le câble du capteur thermique de l'écran de son connecteur.

    Make sure you reconnect the cable for the thermal display sensor during reassembly. If you don't, the fans will be running at max speed and you might think it is from the drive thermal sensor afterwards (which is an issue some users have and which can be fixed in software).

    jnavarro - Réponse

    I had great success with just propping the top edge of the LCD display up with a box about 8" long. By doing so, I didn't have to remove the thermal sensor wire or the power cable.

    Brian Tsai - Réponse

    The thermal sensor connection is more of a pain than it seems. It's a cramped area and it's not clear when it's properly plugged in during reassembly. It may *feel* like it's in, but then pops free at the slightest touch. I guarantee that if as soon as you start up, fans running max speed instantly is the indication this is the issue. If you're ok with that, then fine, but otherwise, you'll have to pull it apart again.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Réponse

    Unplugging the thermal sensor connection is easier said than done, but using the spudger here is very

    helpful

    Peter Bull - Réponse

    • Tout en continuant de tenir l'écran, appliquez une pression vers le bas sur le connecteur du câble d'alimentation avec deux doigts afin de le débrancher de sa prise.

    • Faites attention de ne pas toucher le dessus de l'alimentation pour ne pas prendre de décharges électriques qui peuvent être engendrées par les condensateurs.

    When putting this back together it can be extremely difficult to plug this cable back in without removing a guard that is held in by 2x T8 Torx screws just next to it.

    Russell Knight - Réponse

    I will suggest to remove the other end of the socket which is connected to the display panel. You can never imagine how difficult it will be to plug in on the main body, unless you know well about it.

    Michael Shi - Réponse

    I didn't realize these comments were HERE? Poor web design if you can't see comments in an obvious way. Step 10 will cause you the most trouble in reassembling the computer and I knew it as soon as I popped that connector out off the board. Its really f*cking hard to get that connector hooked back up in the way it should be and I have small hands. I managed to get it at least partly pushed in after several tries. Over all it took over half an hour to get it back in there right and scared the !@#$ out of me because I didn't think I could get it done. Those stupid little plastic things won't help you here, the connector really needs to be pushed hard to get it back in. I ended up using a big beefy screw driver for slotted screws, about a ten inch long screwdriver. I used the blade on each end of the connector and was able to give it a good hard push on one end, then pushed on the other end, slowly rocking the connector back into full flush contact. Be real careful you aren't pushing on the ribbon at all.

    sdpickups - Réponse

    Having done this procedure 6+ times now, I can tell you it's much easier if, instead of holding the panel up by the "bottom" as illustrated in the guide, instead raise it by the "left" side. It gives you (me) much more room to get fingers behind the connector.

    May have been obvious to some, but this little adjustment didn't jump out at me until the 2nd or 3rd rebuild.

    Jeff Dickson - Réponse

    There are four screws holding the power supply in place. Two different thread types so make note! Then lifting the power supply enough to easily plug the power cable back in is MUCH less of a problem. Then put the four screws back and proceed on.

    racecornell - Réponse

    That´s exactly how I managed reassembling this connector very easily: Open the four screws, that hold down the platine and then lift it up a little bit.

    info -

    It isn't that hard if you start by hold the display panel up perpendicular to the case on the side of this challenging connector. From here you'll be able to connect the cable, then follow through with the two other connectors (two screws on the last one). Worked great for me.

    cjrocksu2005 - Réponse

    By far this was the most difficult cable to reconnect. I enlisted a second person to hold the display after I unscrewed the power supply (Torx 10, 4 screws) and was able to give my fingers adequate room to securely reattach it. There's no need to do this when disconnecting the power supply, but it would take more nimble fingers than mine to reattach it without loosening the power supply.

    Ron Lockhart - Réponse

    Do not remove this cable....! Too hard to get back there... I had to screw and lift up the whole platine to get the f**** cable back there....

    EASIER IS:

    # just remove the mic-cable (step6),the Thermal sensor (step9) the LCD-connector (step 10)...

    # then let someone lift up (works also alone) the screen on the right side (there where Superdrive is)...

    # remove Drive and Replace!!!!!

    # Reconnect the easy cables....

    anselm pavlik - Réponse

    agree! this cable is really tricky ...

    Johann -

    This step is TOTALLY UNNECESSARY on a 24" model!

    Skip it; you have enough space to lift the panel.

    Robert MacLeay - Réponse

    You don't need to do this step at all - you can leave the panel connected to the circuit board while you replace the hard drive. I did this while replacing the drive on my 24" iMac, just resting the panel on a box I had put next to the iMac on my desk, so that the panel stayed at the same level but was just moved and rotated sideways, with the cable still connected.

    HBloomfield - Réponse

    I had great success with just propping the top edge of the LCD display up with a box about 8" long. By doing so, I didn't have to remove the thermal sensor wire or the power cable.

    The power cable actually has a fair amount of play in it IF you peel back the thin black tape that affixes it to the LCD panel side to expose the power cable connector on the LCD side.

    Brian Tsai - Réponse

    Note: SERIOUSLY:

    - Disconnect the temp sensor from the iMac

    - Lift up the screen from the RIGHT side (as if the iMac were standing up, facing you) to a vertical position

    - Peel back the tape on the back of the LCD to expose the power supply connection

    - Pull the connection from the LCD

    - Attachment is the reverse

    MUCH easier

    Sheldon Carpenter - Réponse

    • Soulevez et retirez l'écran de l'appareil.

    There is (what it looks like) a display ribbon cable attached that is hard to disconnect.

    Sasmito Adibowo - Réponse

    • Pour retirer le support du disque dur, pressez le milieu du support contre le côté du disque dur tout en faisant pivoter l'extrémité gauche vers le haut.

    • Après avoir libéré le côté gauche, faites pivoter le support vers la droite du disque dur.

    • Soulevez le support du disque dur hors du châssis.

    Prying the plastic bar that locks the HDD into place was probably the most difficult part of the operation, for me. It just didn't want to let go, and until you've actually removed one, it's not exactly clear how it's holding on. The left side basically has a thin wedge on the back that wedges in between the rubber grommet and the mounting bracket

    modsolok - Réponse

    Thank you for this tutorial. I tried and tried and could not get the drive out. Found this tutorial and this comment too and it was a tremendous help! My iMac 24 (March 2009) hard drive was quite stubborn to remove but I finally got it!

    TAPTRONIC - Réponse

    • Le cas échéant, décollez le petit morceau de ruban adhésif qui recouvre les câbles du capteur de température du disque dur et du lecteur optique.

    If there is some clear tape holding the excess play in the HDD thermal sensor wire, against the body back, peel it up to free the wire and give yourself as much free play as possible. When reassembling, tape back to the body.

    Brian Tsai - Réponse

    • Débranchez le câble du capteur de température de sa prise sur la carte mère en le tenant bien droit.

    • Lors du retrait de ce connecteur, vous pouvez vous servir des ongles de vos pouces pour pousser les clips de chaque côté du connecteur vers le haut de l'iMac.

    I found it was not necessary to do this step if you do step 20 first - i.e disconnect the temperature sensor cable from the hard drive, but not the logic board

    HBloomfield - Réponse

    As HBloomfield said, you do NOT have to remove the sensor from the iMac body. Instead, remove the sensor from the HDD while it is still connected to the body.

    If the sensor is covered with a 4mm black foam square, use your index fingernail to scrape off one of the corners where there is adhesive. If you pull on just the foam part, it will tear the foam.

    Brian Tsai - Réponse

    • Faites pivoter légèrement le haut du disque dur vers vous, puis soulevez le disque de manière à libérer les broches situées au-dessous.

    • Le disque dur est toujours raccordé aux câbles SATA.

    • Lors de la réinstallation de votre disque dur, veillez à ne pas faire passer les œillets en caoutchouc à travers les ouvertures du châssis avec les broches situées au-dessous du disque dur, car vous devriez déposer la carte mère pour les retrouver.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger entre le câble de données SATA et le bord du disque dur.

    • Faites tourner le spudger pour séparer le câble de données SATA du disque dur.

    • Débranchez le câble de données SATA du disque dur.

    • Répétez cette procédure pour le câble d'alimentation SATA.

    • Sortez le disque dur de votre iMac en veillant à ne pas coincer le câble du capteur thermique.

    I honestly didn't find the spudger to be necessary for most of this replacement. It is a nice little tool that makes one or two steps easier, but it is far from necessary. I imagine an old stylus you may have laying around would do just as good a job. I would definitely suggest putting the iMac on it's stand straight up to remove the hard drive bracket from it's post, as it sits very tightly in there. I found it popped out a LOT easier on it's stand than laying down, which was next to impossible. You do have to do some careful manuevering with your partner in order to accomplish this, but it's worth it. Take it slow.

    Len - Réponse

    When replacing, the SATA data cable did not extend to the new drive.

    Nathan Suri - Réponse

    THIS. A hundred times THIS. I wanted to put in an SSD, and was miffed to see that the SSD was to be placed in the middle of the 2.5" to 3.5" adapter. Unfortunately, that means that the SATA cable did not reach. I tried three different adapters, all the same. I even tried to BUILD an adapter myself from flat pieces of metal (I wouldn't recommend it). In the end, I got a SATA extension cable and simply taped the SSD into the case where the HDD used to be. We'll see if any problems crop up. Since it's very light though and doesn't produce much heat I don't think there should be a problem.

    Wolf Dapp -

    You will need a dock that puts the connectors in the same place if you want to use an SSD. I've had decent luck with the Icy Dock.

    maccentric -

    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T10 avec leurs œillets en caoutchouc du disque dur.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Retirez les deux broches Torx T10 sur le côté du disque dur le plus proche des connecteurs d'alimentation et de données.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Retirez le morceau de ruban mousse qui recouvre le capteur thermique du disque dur.

    There was no tape on the drive you sent me...

    andymcdonell - Réponse

    Citation de andymcdonell :

    There was no tape on the drive you sent me...

    Transfer the piece of foam tape from the old drive to your new drive. If it is no longer sticky, it is fine to use a strip of electrical or duct tape to hold the foam tape down against the drive.

    Andrew Bookholt - Réponse

    • Pour retirer le capteur thermique du disque dur, utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour soulever la partie centrale de la bride du capteur, tout en tirant doucement sur le câble.

    • Si le capteur thermique est collé sur le disque dur, passez à l'étape suivante.

    I found these instructions to be a little unclear. What you are looking at after removing the foam, is a bracket that is basically holding down the thermal sensor at the end of those wires coming out(which you can't see because it's UNDER the bracket). I found the bracket to be fairly easy to just pull up and off. The spudger (or even a tiny flathead screwdriver) can easily accomplish this if it's glued on tight. Once the bracket comes off, the thermal sensor is freed, and in my case fell away from the bracket. Just try to keep those pieces together in the order they came off. Fortunately, as easy as the bracket came off, it was easily pushed back onto the new hard drive with no trouble at all. The foam was pretty sticky still as well, although I had to double tape one side of it to secure it over the bracket.

    Len - Réponse

    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur la bride du capteur thermique pour la décoller du disque dur.

    • Si l'adhésif est encrassé ou n'adhère plus au nouveau disque dur, placez une bande adhésive double-face sous les deux pattes semi-circulaires de la bride du capteur thermique.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • À l'aide d'un spudger, retirez le petit morceau de mousse EMI collé sur le dessus du disque dur.

    • N'oubliez pas de le recoller sur le nouveau disque dur.

    • Si vous installez un nouveau disque dur, nous avons un guide d'installation OS X.

    Make sure you don't forget this step! I forgot this step, got everything back together, then had to take it all apart again to affix this! Not fun. That said, the second time went MUCH faster, and I found myself appreciating this design a lot more. It is much less daunting now, and is much easier than upgrading the RAM in a Mac Mini.

    Len - Réponse

    I followed this to replace hard disk with an SSD. These instructions and comments pretty much cover it. Only had to disconnect #7 cable and a little cable near the center of the system board; flipping/rotating bezel/screen avoided other disconnects. I used a permanent marker to label bezel holes "L" and "VL" (long and very long) to put those screws back properly.

    My main problem: I expected a 2.5" hard disk but found a 3.5". Micro Center talked me into an IcyDock 2.5" --> 3.5" adapter, defective (ended up just taping the SSD down). Between that and not loading OS on the SSD before installing (basically: attach SSD via USB, boot while pressing command-R) meant I got to do this disassembly/assembly several times.

    Worth it to buy a bottle of air to blow out dust, a 3.5" external enclosure (for the former internal hard disk), and maybe a CR2032? coin battery while you're at it. Group permissions on the hard disk's user files will be broken afterwards, easily fixed.

    David Menges - Réponse

    i can not install osx on the new disk

    don't assume the usb pen i have to install the osx can you help me?

    djactomicoutblast - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

165 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

Merci à ces traducteurs :

100%

Fabienne Detoc nous aide à réparer le monde ! Vous voulez contribuer ?
Commencez à traduire ›

Brittany McCrigler

Membre depuis le 05/03/2012

80 096 Réputation

132 tutoriels rédigés

Équipe

iFixit Membre de l'équipe iFixit

Community

111 membres

7 293 tutoriels rédigés

10 commentaires

Exellent instructions....

jgtechnology - Réponse

I just installed a new HD on my iMac 8,1. Intalled the OS from original disc, it was 10.5.2, I don't know how to upgrade the OS.

I did software update, but only got 10.5.8. ¿what can I do? I would like to install Yosemite at least...

Any help?

Dan N. - Réponse

You need to get to 10.6.8 via physical media, then app store update from there. I have read that Apple will send you a dvd for no cost, but the official price is $19.

Milk Manson -

Compatibilité du capteur thermique avec un SSD ?

DUBOIS - Réponse

I just replaced the original HDD with a SSD in my early 2009 iMac. Worked like a charm except now my fans run at about 3000 RPM and the computer is not even hot. I double checked the heat sensor and all is where it should be. Any ideas how to get the fans to quiet down?

Trey Darnell - Réponse

When the fans spin like crazy, it’s because it can’t see a sensor that it’s expecting. Double check, not only the location but that they’re connected securely into the logic board. I’d spend extra attention on the temp sensor that sits on the hard drive (since that’s the one you moved over from the old hard drive). Double check the wires into the connector as well that they didn’t get damaged when unplugging it.

James Macintosh -

The HDD Temp sensor is just a NPN transistor - in the past with SSDs I have used a 2N4401 - connect the grey wire to the emitter and the black wire to the other two pins. Works a treat.

John - Réponse

I like to upgrade the HDD in an early 2009 EMC 2267 to a SSD. It’s not my computer, my son’s. I was going to upgrade it next month when visiting him. I’m having a problem making a El Capitan bootable USB drive. I can’t get the Install application from the App Store. Will I be able to use my bootable High Sierra USB drive to run Disk Utility to format the SSD and then Restore from Time Machine?

Ren - 06/14/2018

Ren Worlock - Réponse

Hey Ren! I may be a bit late, but there is a way to actually install High Sierra on your son’s computer. I have it installed on 4G RAM and 2.66GHZ processor and it works wonderfully. Here’s the link to the guide, I highly recommend you do this: http://dosdude1.com/highsierra/ . Kind of a poorly formatted article but it’s comprehensive and helpful. Best of luck!

Jacob Weeces -

I made it! Excellent guide! I followed all steps except the one with the powercord, since I read in the comments that it wasn’t really necessary. And it wasn’t, so it’s good to read comments too! :)

Thank you so much for this guide!

Peder Sjöberg - Réponse

Ajouter un commentaire

Voir les statistiques:

Dernières 24 heures : 52

7 derniers jours : 264

30 derniers jours : 1,249

Total : 155,541