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MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement

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  1. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Lower Case: étape 1, image 1 de 1
    Outil utilisé dans cette étape :
    P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air
    $5.99
    • Shut down and close your computer. Lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

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  2. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: étape 2, image 1 de 1
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

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  3. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Battery Connector: étape 3, image 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Battery Connector: étape 3, image 2 de 2
    • In this step you will disconnect the battery to help avoid shorting out any components during service.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally bend back and make contact with its socket.

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  4. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Fan: étape 4, image 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Fan: étape 4, image 2 de 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the iSight camera cable connector to loosen it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • We recommend you gently "walk" the connector out of its socket.

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  5. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: étape 5, image 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: étape 5, image 2 de 2
    • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the adhesive securing it to the fan.

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  6. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: étape 6, image 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: étape 6, image 2 de 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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  7. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: étape 7, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • Two 5.5 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 4.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • In some models this is a 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw.

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  8. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: étape 8, image 1 de 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: étape 8, image 2 de 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: étape 8, image 3 de 3
    • Lift, but do not remove the fan out of its recess in the upper case.

    • Carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove the fan from the Air.

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  9. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement, Heat Sink: étape 9, image 1 de 1
    • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

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  10. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: étape 10, image 1 de 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Heat Sink Replacement: étape 10, image 2 de 2
    • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all four screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the face of the CPU.

    • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sam Goldheart

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3 commentaires de tutoriel

you should seriously note the danger of the cpu screw holders. apple for some reason decided to attach the fricken screw receivers/standoffs via surface mount. they dont have a bottom cap either. use a screw slightly too long or turn too far and pop(screw pushes against motherboard and pops the holder off)... one corner is unable to be screwed in. ask me how i learned this...lol...I cant see how this design decision helps anything but apples wallet. the other side of the board has components smds as well so its not like a really short through hole was undo-able.

John W - Réponse Partager

There is step missing between 3 and 4. There is another ribbon cable over fan that is still there in step 3 but gone in step 4.

Bogdaniec Ze Zbyszka - Réponse Partager

The step 3 and 4, there should be a step removing the I/O cable. I/O cable must be removed or disassembled to access iSight camera cable. The I/O cable is covering the entire iSight cable, and without removing, accessing the iSight cable will extremely difficult.

ChiKen - Réponse Partager

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