MacBook Air 11" Early 2015 Logic Board Replacement

Remove the following ten screws:

Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally bend back and make contact with its socket.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left and right I/O board cable connectors up off their respective sockets on the I/O board.

Lift and remove the I/O board cable.

Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the iSight camera cable connector to loosen it out of its socket on the logic board.

Peel the iSight camera cable up off the adhesive securing it to the fan.

Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

Two 5.5 mm T5 Torx screws

One 4.6 mm T5 Torx screw

Lift, but do not remove the fan out of its recess in the upper case.

Carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove the fan from the Air.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card, and move them out of the way.

Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

One 6 mm T5 Torx screw

Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws

Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to de-route the antenna cables from their notches in the logic board.

Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

While holding the lock away from the socket, gently pull the display data cable out of its socket.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry under the speaker cable connector, lifting it straight up from its socket.

De-route the cable from its notch in the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.

Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

Remove the three 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

In some models these are 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws.

Gently lift the logic board assembly from the heat sink end and pull it away from the port side of the case to remove it from the Air.

Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all four screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU.

Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

Lift the free end of the SSD just enough to get a good hold of it.

Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.