Introduction

Suivez ce tutoriel pour remplacer votre écran cassé.

Retirez les dix vis suivantes :
  • Retirez les dix vis suivantes :

    • Trois vis Phillips #00 14,4 mm

    • Trois vis Phillips #00 3,5 mm

    • Quatre vis à épaulement Phillips #00 3,5 mm

Does void the warranty?

jfondeur - Réponse

No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...

oakdragon12 - Réponse

How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

gunes314 - Réponse

You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Réponse

Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.

Seji the veggie -

What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!

Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.

pmhparis -

The issue is not one of weight but an issue with the systems cooling and an opening which objects could enter. For a few grams of weight I don’t think its worth it! A better solution would be to swap out the heaver HD for a much lighter SSD, and getting all of the performance benefits of the faster drive as well!

While you might not think it the optical drive also acts as a stiffener so there is less twist in the case. This is because of the size of the hole for the DVD/CD’s so taking it out weakens the case design.

Dan -

I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

John Adam Wickliffe - Réponse

Hey guys,

this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

renatumb - Réponse

Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

Robert Wacker - Réponse

Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

kschmesk - Réponse

I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

Alex - Réponse

The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

brian whittle - Réponse

Hello MacWorld,

Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!

wer 10/5/15

tayseer999 - Réponse

I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.

GotMac - Réponse

Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

taylornya - Réponse

on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one

Maximilian Klotz - Réponse

I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.

gilded yak - Réponse

Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”

Jack - Réponse

I have the same question. What is the difference between shouldered and not? So hard to see any difference…

Michael Wilkens -

I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

rodrigosady - Réponse

I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

Michael Wilkens -

I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.

Stephen Smith - Réponse

A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help

Wilder Torres - Réponse

Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.

airshack - Réponse

when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.

this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.

Matt - Réponse

It seems to me the yellow and orange screws are the same

Luca Giancarli - Réponse

If you look closely, the four front screws (with the yellow circles) have a short unthreaded section under the head. The orange keyed screws are threaded all the way up.

Raymond Ives -

The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).

Don Cely - Réponse

Two screw types:

______________________________

Shouldered Unshouldered

xxxxxxx……….xxxxxxx

..xxxxx……..….…….x…….

…..x……..…...……….x…….

…..x…………....……..x…….

______________________________

El Crashitan - Réponse

If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.

Patrick Langvardt - Réponse

Faites levier avec vos doigts au niveau de la fente pour sortir le boîtier inférieur de la coque du MacBook.
  • Faites levier avec vos doigts au niveau de la fente pour sortir le boîtier inférieur de la coque du MacBook.

  • Retirez le boîtier inférieur.

If the black vent window that is attached to the back cover becomes loose what kind of glue should be used to attach it again, thermal paste or super glue?

Thanks for your help.

Mikell - Réponse

bonjour cette truc ça marche au mac Brook pro Retina ou pas?

Shi Feng - Réponse

Bonjour, alors cela va dépendre du modèle de MacBook Pro Retina concerné. Par exemple, si vous avez un 13 pouces, allez consulter cette page MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Repair et sélectionnez-y votre modèle. Les Retina 15 pouces se trouvent ici MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Repair. Sinon cet outil https://fr.ifixit.com/info/ID-your-Mac (pour l’instant seulement disponible en anglais) vous aide à identifier quel modèle vous avez et vous redirige vers la page de votre appareil, où vous trouverez le tutoriel correspondant à votre Retina. Bonne réparation !

Claire Rapp -

Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?

Volkan Ogul - Réponse

  • À l'aide de l'extrémité d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.

  • Il convient d'appliquer l'effet de levier sur les deux côtés courts du connecteur. Faites attention aux coins des connecteurs, car ils se cassent facilement.

Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

manodh - Réponse

yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

khull -

Sooo the track pad is under the battery...you kind of have to remove it to get to the track pad.

stiknrudder -

This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

Steven Layton - Réponse

My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

Diego Hernandes -

Did you properly ground yourself to the case before putting the spudger to the connector/logic board? Did you use a spudger or something else that is non conductive...or did you use a flat blade metal screw driver instead and compound your error by not grounding yourself before touching the logic board? All kinds of variables here but the bottom line is iFixit provided you a guide to fix your computer. Lots of others have followed this guide without trouble. Your battery issues are not their fault. They did say this guide was moderate difficulty...maybe it's just a little beyond your skill level. We should all know our limits!

stiknrudder -

Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

ausmkv - Réponse

wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

Peter - Réponse

I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

John - Réponse

simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

toiu - Réponse

What do you mean by "remove the battery"?

Anrothan -

Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

fasthans - Réponse

Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

aekinaka - Réponse

Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery cable....no issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX Yosemite....next I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.

MacProUser - Réponse

Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.

Simon Mundy - Réponse

I took off th Airport /Bluetooth connectors but the number J3 connector is broken and so where can i buy J3 connecter for the Airport/bluetooth board

Zeerachen - Réponse

Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector

Ed Oliver - Réponse

DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!

Bradley Marks - Réponse

Followed the tuto Step by step. Disconnected the battery (quite easily).

No problem when I lit the Mac on again. Battery's here, date's right.

nichoferr - Réponse

Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.

Mfernandez - Réponse

This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.

Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.

BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.

wassberg -

Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.

Stephen Smith - Réponse

I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.

Raymond Rinaldi - Réponse

Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!

Marijke de Vries - Réponse

The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201165

B T - Réponse

I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.

airshack - Réponse

Hello!

Do I really need to use a spudger tool? Can’t I just use like two plectrums for guitar? xD

Myzcio - Réponse

  • Repliez légèrement le câble de la batterie vers l'arrière pour éviter qu'il ne se reconnecte accidentellement à la prise sur la carte mère pendant que vous travaillez.

What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

Diego Hernandes - Réponse

The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

Great guides. Thanks!

timgunkel - Réponse

Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

Sal Ergrapes - Réponse

I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

Stephen Smith - Réponse

That's a good tip

Anrothan -

Followed the advice and right as I was installing the replacement fan , the socket broke right off the motherboard.

Ian Thal - Réponse

One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

lelandjordon - Réponse

does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.

Darren Rose - Réponse

  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur de la nappe AirPort/Bluetooth pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.

Greg - Réponse

  • Tirez soigneusement la nappe de la caméra hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Tirez sur la nappe parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère. Tirer vers le haut peut endommager la carte mère ou la nappe même.

I ripped the camera cable where can I buy a new one

fadybitar2000 - Réponse

Be very careful at step 6!

I had the same problem with the model "Late 2011" and I doubt to step 6 because the camera cabel connector was plugged very tight in the board-socket. So I cannot believe it is so easy to unplug the connector.

I bought a new camera cable on eBay.

Tomasz Borkowski - Réponse

Be extremely careful on step 6 with late 2011 model unibody macbooks! The cable is connected very tightly to the board and has a great chance of ripping if you just pull the cable.

Tim Rauls - Réponse

I ripped the camrea cable socket on the logic board.

Pedram Fattahi - Réponse

Walk the cable out with a spudger!!! The Retina 2012 guide has this and this was so easy using the tool.

Robert Le Monds - Réponse

  • Poussez soigneusement la nappe AirPort/Bluetooth de côté lorsque vous décollez la nappe de la caméra de la bande adhésive qui la fixe au caisson de basse et au support AirPort/Bluetooth.

  • Retirez la nappe de la caméra, placée sous un dispositif de retenue moulé dans le support AirPort/Bluetooth.

What adhesive is suitable for reattaching the foam tape and wires that were removed from their normal routing?

David Warshowsky - Réponse

I want to know that too!

Alberto Harres Rocha -

Take a few phone close-ups of this corner of your system prior to disassembly. Extra photos really help during reassembly.

airshack - Réponse

I didn’t use any extra adhesive here during reassembly. The camera cable fits snuggly between the subwoofer module and the DVD drive. Apple’s adhesive here is really just overkill.

airshack - Réponse

  • Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur de l'antenne la plus proche de la carte mère pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte AirPort/Bluetooth.

  • Retirez le câble d'antenne placé sous un dispositif de retenue moulé dans le support AirPort/Bluetooth.

Can someone explain me what this "antenna cable" is for? I changed my Topcase and this antenna did break during the procedure =(.

The problem is i can't find this cable anywhere to buy and i don't even know his function. WIFI and Bluetooth are working just fine.

Can someone please help me?

kadiroeztel - Réponse

Same here, I was removing the display and once i put it back on the three little antenna cables fall off. Any idea how to replace it or find it?

Hector Torres -

Those are the WiFi antennae..

auadix -

When I was repairing the hinge of my laptop two of the antenna cable connectors came off the ends of the antenna wires. Can someone confirm what these are called and the size so I can source replacements? I believe they may be called ’Micro RF Coax Connector’ but I am not sure what size I need. For the record the wifi is actually still working but may be a bit slower than normal. Thanks for your help.

Alan Holt - Réponse

  • Appliquez la même méthode que dans l'étape précédente pour déconnecter les trois autres connecteurs d'antenne.

  • Retirez leurs câbles des fentes dans le support AirPort/Bluetooth.

What are these? Like in order? I broke the middle one and am trying to find a replacement. The mac actually functions quite normally, currently using it to type this ahaha, anyways, only difference I've noticed is that the speaker sounds a bit weird/off. Internet is fine, display is fine, everything is fine at the moment besides the speaker. And in case you're wondering how exactly broken it is, its not connected to begin with since it ripped ahahaa...

Lupita Felix - Réponse

I found re-attaching these antennae connectors the trickiest bit by far as they appear very delicate and seating them correctly was fiddly. In the end lighting them from the side with a small torch helped to check their position before gently pushing them down. The first one made a clicking sound as it connected, the other two went on silently. MBP wifi working perfectly now. I’m fairly sure that was at least £100 of labour had I taken it in for repair so thanks ifixit for saving me money and for the warm glow of accomplishment!

Andrew - Réponse

  • Dévissez les cinq vis suivantes :

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 10,3 mm

    • Deux vis cruciformes de 3,1 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme de 5 mm

The two screws marked in orange are not present in my early 2011 macbook pro

bhavishya tyagi - Réponse

Should be worth noting that the black tape/wire grommet on the right red screw is flimsy. When overtightened, it can tear.

Brad Stossel - Réponse

  • Soulevez l'ensemble AirPort/Bluetooth et le caisson de basse au niveau du milieu du côté du lecteur optique jusqu'à qu'ils se séparent l'un de l'autre.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Ôtez l'ensemble AirPort/Bluetooth en évitant que le contact fragile de l'antenne ne touche le coin du boîtier supérieur.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Retirez deux des trois vis Torx T8 de 6 mm fixant le côté droit de l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

  • Nous avons délibérément laisser une vis attachée afin de vous faciliter les étapes suivantes.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.

  • Débranchez le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran de la carte mère.

  • Ne pas soulever le câble de données de l'écran étant donné que sa prise est très fragile. Tirez le câble parallèlement à la face de la carte mère.

This was the hardest part for me. It took me a bit to figure out what parts were the socket and which was the cable and where were they going to separate. What I did was gently twist the pull tab on the cable in a clockwise direction. This allowed me to see a small separation between the socket and cable. At that point I knew what side of the pull tab I had to use a little pressure on, to continue to wiggle the cable free.

Eric Olson - Réponse

  • Dévissez les deux vis suivantes :

    • Une vis cruciforme de 8,6 mm.

    • Une vis cruciforme de 5,6 mm.

  • Retirez la fixation du câble de données de l'écran du boîtier supérieur.

When putting the display case back together, I found it MUCH easier to reinsert the display cable before screwing back in the data cable retainer. It did require me angling my screwdriver to get the rightmost screw in, but it was not too difficult. It certainly made it much easier to reinsert the display cable since I had more freedom to maneuver it back into position. Hope this help others. God Bless!

eSavior - Réponse

  • Enlever le petit morceau de bande adhésive en mousse fixé sur les vis de l'écran à côté de la carte de raccordement MagSafe.

How fragile is it really?

?

Albert Einstien - Réponse

  • Dévissez deux des trois vis Torx T8 de 6 mm fixant le côté gauche de l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

  • Nous avons délibérément laisser une vis attachée afin de vous faciliter les étapes suivantes.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Ouvrez votre MacBook de sorte que l'écran soit perpendiculaire au boîtier supérieur.

  • Posez votre MacBook ouvert sur une table comme sur la photo.

    • Pendant que vous maintenez l'écran et le boîtier supérieur d'une main, retirez la vis Torx T8 de la fixation inférieure de l'écran.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Veillez à maintenir l'écran et le boîtier supérieur avec votre main gauche. Si vous les lâchez, vous risquez de faire tomber l'écran ou le boîtier supérieur et donc de les abîmer.

  • Dévissez la dernière vis Torx T8 fixant l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

Ajouter un commentaire

  • Saisissez le boîtier supérieur de votre main droite et faites-le pivoter légèrement vers le haut de l'écran, de sorte que la fixation supérieure de l'écran s'éloigne du bord du boîtier supérieur.

  • Faites pivoter et éloignez légèrement l'écran du boîtier supérieur.

  • Soulevez et éloignez l'écran du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce qu'aucune fixation ni nappe ne reste accrochée.

I used this guide to tighten the hinges; screen was all wobbly because the four screws that hold the screen in place had worked themselves loose. Surprised that getting at the screws required the full removal of the display. One thing that's helpful in putting it all together is in regard to adjusting the position of the hinges; with the screws loose, there is a lot of play in the hinges, and if you just torque them down, the lid won't fit right. I snugged up the screws then put the display back in place on the body & inserted one screw into each side, then loosened the hinge screws to align the screen. That has to happen before replacing the black plastic cover over the bottom edge of the display.

davidgthornton - Réponse

My Macbook Pro developed a severe wobble in the display so I took it in to the Genius bar to see what could be done. They told me that fixing it would involve replacing the whole display because the problem is due to a piece of plastic inside breaking off. I suspected it just needed to have the hinge screws tightened so I brought my laptop home and gave it a go using this guide. Well, it turns out I was right! The Torx screws joining the hinges to the the display had come loose at both sides. To fix this, I got the hinges lined up straight on the display and tightened them down. To attatch the hinges to the body, I tightened one screw on each side half way and closed the display to line it up with the body. I then proceeded then to tighten all of the Torx screws on the body. Thank you for the great guide, Philip! I love this site!

gilded yak - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

113 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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16 commentaires

Note that the 2011 version differs from previous models at the connectors on the antenna end opposite to the display cable. Do not attempt to buy a complete display from prior models.

khull - Réponse

Although this guide a difficulty rating I wasn't sure how long it would take a fairly adept novice to complete the R&R of the display. I took my time and did the tear down in 1 hour. I separated the fasteners by placing each section on a loop of tape above the work. The replacement of the new display took me about 2 hours. As the guide says it was just the tear down in reverse. Things that added to the replacement were getting the first 2 screws aligned and in place; re-routing the antenna and camera cables and making sure the camera cable socket connector was in correctly. The good news is it worked on the first power-up. Great guide.

Bob G - Réponse

Can I use a 2011 Display with a 2009 (mid) MacBook pro?

Simon - Réponse

Not even close.

maccentric -

Nice guide. I think rating this as Difficult is over stating it; this is moderate at best.

maccentric -

Does the display come with the back cover included. I don't know the correct name for the part. I just mean the silver cover with the apple thingy in it.

Andrea Beck - Réponse

No but you can buy that piece from PowerBook medic it is called the display housing

sean gyimah -

Is it possible to install a retina display screen on my early 2011 macbookPro Unibody?

Thanks!

Uri Shilo - Réponse

No, it is not a reasonable possibility to install a retina display on a non-retina MacBook. The assemblies are very different.

Lance J -

Does anyone know if the lid component is compatible between the mid 2010 and early 2011 13" Macbook Pro?

I just picked up a 2010 model and want to use the display lid for my 2011 as it has permanent dents in it. From what I can see from looking around the hinges are different and by the specs they used different cameras but I would be swapping the display and cables between the two most likely.

Gaz Rybagz - Réponse

Great guide. Snagged an A- used from eBay for $150, December 2016 and installed in about 45 minutes. Thanks.

ericmatthew86 - Réponse

I used this guide to fix my Early 2011 MacBook Pro's wobbly screen. I took it into the Apple store, where a Genius took a look under the hood and told me the "Clutch is snapped," and that not only would it cost ~$500 to fix, but because the laptop is so old Apple won't do repairs anymore for it. When I took it apart, I could see that just a tiny part of the black plastic mechanism underneath the clutch cover was broken which did contribute to the wobble. I tightened the hinge screws and used Threadlocker Blue on them, and then used an automotive adhesive from Ace Hardware on the broken plastic piece. The wobble is gone and my MacBook is now fully functional once again!

Drew Dittmann - Réponse

Hola eL flex de video es el mismo para MacBook 13” 15” 2011, saludos

yoisel1979 - Réponse

Great guide. Does this model have an inverter board or is it integrated into the display?

richard butts - Réponse

I used this guide to tighten a loose display, and it worked great. The guide is very thorough, so if you follow it step by step you should have no problem. The hardest part was disconnecting the display cable from the socket on the board. Other than that go slow, take your time, and you should be fine.

Eric Olson - Réponse

Hello, is it possible to swap a 15” 2011 MacBook display with a 15” 2011 MacBook ANTI-Glare display?

Jeff Capri - Réponse

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