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Poussez avec les doigts les deux loquets de déverrouillage de la batterie et retirez celle-ci de l'ordinateur.
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Retirez les trois vis identiques Phillips de 2 mm du capot de la mémoire.
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Soulevez le capot suffisamment pour le saisir et retirez-le en le faisant glisser vers vous.
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Retirez les deux vis Phillips 2,8 mm situées près du loquet, dans le compartiment de la batterie.
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Soulevez l'arrière du boîtier et à l'aide de vos doigts, libérez progressivement le boîtier par les côtés en allant de l'arrière vers l'avant. Une fois les côtés du boîtier libérés, vous devrez peut-être bouger le boîtier de bas en haut pour libérer la partie avant.
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Quatre clips en plastique sont disposés au-dessus du logement du DVD et un autre au-dessus, à gauche du capteur infrarouge. Ces clips peuvent être très difficiles à désengager sans mouvement de levier. Ils peuvent également être difficiles à ré-engager lors du remontage.
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Use a spudger to pry up the translucent plastic sheet covering the keyboard connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the black plastic flap locking down the keyboard ribbon cable.
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Slide the orange keyboard backlight ribbon out of its connector.
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Peel up the orange tape covering the keyboard backlight connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the brown plastic flap locking down the keyboard backlight ribbon cable.
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Use a spudger or your finger to slide the keyboard backlight ribbon out of its connector.
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Peel back the black protective sheath on the right side of the upper case.
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Similarly, peel back the black protective sheath on the left side of the upper case.
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Remove the 12 identical Phillips screws attaching the keyboard to the casing.
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There are six locking tabs along the back edge of the keyboard holding it in place. These tabs must be straightened before you can remove the keyboard.
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Slide the keyboard ribbon out of its connector.
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It is common for the small ribbon just beside the keyboard ribbon to wear out with use in this model. (Keyboard and trackpad would not work but power button will.) The solution is to apply pressure directly on that cable where it enters the flap (with a piece of plastic or a folded paper that is pushed against by the battery).
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Place the upper casing on its edge and use a spudger to push the keyboard away from the casing, poking the spudger through the central keyboard screw hole. Grasp the keyboard as it separates from the casing.
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Maintaining your hold on the keyboard, lay the casing flat and gently bow the keyboard until the two tabs on either side of the keyboard come free.
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Slide the keyboard away from the trackpad and out of the upper case.
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Remove the two Phillips screws securing the black antenna holder to the upper case.
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Lift the black Bluetooth antenna holder off of the upper case.
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Disconnect the Bluetooth antenna cable from the Bluetooth board.
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Lift the Bluetooth antenna out of its housing in the upper case. The Bluetooth antenna may be secured to the upper case with an adhesive, so rocking the antenna board from side to side may help it come free easier.
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Disconnect the Bluetooth antenna cable from the Bluetooth board.
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Lift the Bluetooth antenna out of its housing in the upper case. The Bluetooth antenna may be secured to the upper case with an adhesive, so rocking the antenna board from side to side may help it come free easier.
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Remove the single Phillips screw securing the Bluetooth board to the lower case.
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Peel up the Bluetooth data cable from the adhesive on the upper case, removing tape as necessary.
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Disconnect the Bluetooth data cable from the upper case.
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Lift the Bluetooth board and attached cable off the upper case.
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3 commentaires
this part is actually called the "top case", and is referenced as such in Apple's part numbers and take-apart guides.
Just did this. The guide is great. A good mod. Caveats:
(1) Use good screwdrivers... Really. I've done this for years and made the mistake of impatience anyway. I used poor-quality ones (though the right size) and partly stripped screws... Long story short, I had to buy replacement screws and dremel off the heads of the originals (thus also unable to easily re-use old top case)
(2) If your computer's old, you might need some new tape or adhesive at a few points (for the old sticky covers).
(3) If your upgrading A1226 to A1260 to get the new multi-touch trackpad (works BEAUTIFULLY, by the way :)), consider buying the keyboard with the upper case. Swapping keyboards is a fair bit of work, another chance to strip screws, and then you need to re-label (or swap) some keys to reflect the new special functions (these are changed by the new top case controller). If you keep the old keyboard (as I did), a simple P-touch labeler can be used to make new labels over the old keys (or you can swap keycaps if you have them from the new keyboard). Bottom line... A much more elegant solution is to swap the keyboard at the same time.
(4) Take care reassembling new the DVD drive. It's easy to bend the top piece of metal down (the one that engages the clips) and your DVD can get stuck occasional ejecting. Very annoying. Maybe give it a little prophylactic bend upward.
Overall, very happy!! Awesome pictures in the guide.
Yet another way to get good life out of an old Mac. Had an original MacBook Pro 3,1, since upgraded to new mainboard (under warranty), 6GB RAM, new MB fans (thanks iFixIt), new 500GB hybrid flash drive, now multi-touch thanks to this! Running 10.7.2 easily, great return on a purchase in 2007.
Cheers to the iFixit community!
I had a problem that is so common that I would love to see it as a comment within the guide: I spend the better part of a long afternoon reassembling different top cases and cables with the result that trackpad and keyboard didn´t work but the power button did. Sometimes both were working for a few minutes and next time I would start up they would be dead again. Solution was: The small cable that fits into the trackpad / USB Controller and takes the trackpad / keyboard signal to the logic board has a widely documented tendency to loose touch with its connectors after a few years. What helps is to apply pressure on the end of the cable where it enters the controller below the trackpad. Easy to check with fingers. In the long run use a piece of a thick plastic card or cardboard to apply pressure from the battery direkt on that spot. Easy. And works like charm. After I was so close before giving up my Macbook Pro or buying another topcase. Please add that possibility to the guide as it is really common.
