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Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Utilisez vos doigts pour pousser les deux onglets de libération de la batterie et retirez la batterie de l'ordinateur.
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Retirez les quatre vis Phillips 3,4 mm identiques à partir de la trappe de la mémoire. Ces vis ont 4 mm de diamètre de tête au lieu de 3 mm sur les vis du corps.
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Retirez les trois vis cruciformes situées dans le compartiment de la batterie, près du loquet. Apple a eu la gentillesse d'incliner légèrement ces vis pour les rendre plus faciles à retirer. Sur le A1261, ces vis ont des têtes de 4 mm de diamètre au lieu des têtes de 3 mm des vis restantes.
To Damon - possibly the thread on the bottom of the upper case is obstructed.
I found that I needed to fight the latch magnet with the right-most screw in the photo. The screw was pulled away from the hole so a magnetized screwdriver was not enough to place it. I needed tweezers to hold the screw in place until it bit.
No, these screws won’t bite going back in — struggled for an hour. Lost hope of success.
Case screw holes perfectly lined-up, neatly closed body, screw threads/head are fine (Apple quality screws), perfect screwdriver.
The left one is in, other two simply will not bite whatsoever. Slightly irritating eventually turned to madly infuriating. I have a similar, earlier model and that was smooth to replace these exact, slightly angled screws (so I have experience).
Q: Are the centre and right-hand screws absolutely essential — or can I give up and leave them out?
(By the time you read this, that’s what I’ll have done)(out of sheer frustration)
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Retirez les six vis suivantes :
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Deux vis Torx T6 de 14,5 mm de part et d'autre du compartiment de la RAM.
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Quatre vis cruciformes de 3,4 mm le long de la charnière.
These instructions are actually wrong. The 14.5 mm screws are for along the hinge, the 2 on either side of the RAM slot are about 10 mm.
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Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes de 3,4 mm sur le côté des ports de l'ordinateur.
When reassembling, please be careful not to screw into the wrong spot. I accidentally screwed into the DVI port and it was hard to remove the screw after that. I had to disassemble the whole thing again, only to find that I couldn't remove the screw from within as it was encased. After much scraping and prodding with a sewing needle, I was able to get that screw out. Phew!
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Soulevez l'arrière du boîtier et faites glisser vos doigts le long des côtés, en détachant le boîtier au fur et à mesure. Une fois que vous avez détaché les côtés, vous devrez peut-être faire basculer le boîtier de haut en bas pour détacher l'avant du boîtier supérieur.
Be very careful not to bend the screw tabs on the top case the perimeter screws attach to. Bending them causes them to quickly fatigue and potentially break off. When reassembling the top case, be sure the tabs are all *inside* the case before reseating it. If you get resistance, pull the case back up, check the tabs and reseat the top case again.
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Débranchez la nappe du pavé tactile et du clavier de sa prise sur la carte mère.
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Retirez le boîtier supérieur.
Disconnecting this cable is optional, if instead you tip up the top case ~75 degrees, propping it up with something non-metalic (wedged in or by the battery compartment). Unplugging a connector from the main circuit board always carries slight additional risk.
It's not really necessary to disconnect the trackboard/keyboard ribbon cable. You can simply lean the upper case against the LCD.
After having successfully removed/reattached the ribbon cable several times while trying to revive this computer for back-up use the securing/release tabs on the connector broke. The connector then will not hold the cable properly and connecting fails. Tried various methods of propping the cable in the connector to get full contact but eventually all efforts failed, too. Result: essentially a dead motherboard as no replacement for the connector seems available. Sadly, not worth the extra effort to try further repairs.
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Déconnectez la nappe orange SuperDrive de la carte mère, en retirant le ruban adhésif si nécessaire.
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Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire
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Remove the single Phillips screw securing the mounting bracket to the left side of the optical drive.
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Rotate the drive and disconnect the orange ribbon cable from the optical drive.
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Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire
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Remove the two Phillips screws securing the mounting bracket to the rear of the optical drive.
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Cette étape n’est pas traduite. Aidez à la traduire
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Rotate the drive and remove the single Phillips screw securing the mounting bracket to the right side of the optical drive.
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Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
50 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)
amiller770 - Réponse
Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?
Noah Nsangou - Réponse
mine has 2g＊2＝4 gb ram in. you should be fine
on mac forum it suggested to put 4gb and a 2gb in a1261.
david -
I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?
2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151
2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo
Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz
Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB
scannon - Réponse
You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)
asle -
There seems to be some discrepancy about whether or not installing a SSD will help. See Phil's earlier comment from October 2015: there, *he* claims that having an SSD increases the load times significantly, (even though -- of course -- 1.5Gbps is not ideal)...
His quotation, (re-)cited integrally:
Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.
Phil - 10/07/2015
at0gjm -
Bonjour j'ai besoin de cette bactérie que dois-je faire ?
basile kouamé YAO - Réponse