Introduction

Utilisez ce guide pour retirer la grille d'aération arrière en aluminium de votre MacBook.

  1. Retirez les huit vis Phillips 4 mm par lesquelles le boîtier inférieur est fixé au MacBook.
    • Retirez les huit vis Phillips 4 mm par lesquelles le boîtier inférieur est fixé au MacBook.

    According to this page http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1651?viewl..., the 8 screws are not identical.

    Can anybody tell me where each kind of screw is supposed to go?

    Gregoire - Réponse

    They are all 100% Identical. You were probably looking at a different model, or Apple has entered the wrong information... Hey, It happens...

    weeowey weeowey -

    The screws on the Late 2009 are identical. The blue lock compound might make tightening some require a little more effort.

    svenaustx - Réponse

    Can I replace it with a SATA 3 cable?

    nm - Réponse

    A1342 macbook does not have the right controller to support sata III

    weeowey weeowey -

    hi, i just got back from the apple store and they are really keen for me to upgrade to a new laptop since my battery is old and the screen is cracked, so glad i found ifixit i would love to upgrade this puppy! gonna make it a real sleeper! styler hall wrote about sticking 16 gb of ram in his a 1342 ? is this a simply mather of ordering 3 4gb sticks ?aslo i currently have 4 gb and would like to upgrade to 8 ( or indeed 16) does that mean i need to buy all new sticks or can i continue to use the old one and stick a new one next to it ?

    thanks again mick van aar, perth western aus.

    michelvanaar - Réponse

    The A1342 will take up to 16 GB of RAM, however, there are only two RAM slots, so use two 8-GB RAM modules. Other World Computing (OWC) is a great reference source for info on exactly which RAM to use with which model; prices are usually much better on EBay though. Add an SSD from OWC and your machine will really scream!

    I hope that helps!

    gdesbrisay -

    Gregoire is right. The 8 screws are absolutely NOT identical, I’m looking at them right now, weeowey weeowey.

    John Guzman - Réponse

  2. Le boîtier inférieur est construit en aluminium avec un revêtement en caoutchouc. Ne pliez pas trop l'aluminium lors du retrait, car une déformation permanente générerait des problèmes de tolérance après le remontage.
    • Le boîtier inférieur est construit en aluminium avec un revêtement en caoutchouc. Ne pliez pas trop l'aluminium lors du retrait, car une déformation permanente générerait des problèmes de tolérance après le remontage.

    • Soulevez légèrement le boîtier arrière au niveau de la fente.

    • Continuez à faire courir vos doigts entre les boîtiers inférieur et supérieur jusqu'à ce que le boîtier supérieur se dégage des clips de fixation.

    • La position de ces trois clips est indiquée dans la troisième photographie.

    Do the retaining clips have to be re-engaged when replacing the lower case?

    John Morley - Réponse

    Answering my own question, the clips re-engage when the lower case is correctly positioned. You can help them by gently pressing the lower case with your thumbs midway along the two short sides. When everything is correctly aligned the eight screw holes line up.

    John Morley -

    Rather than running your fingernail down the sides to free up the retaining clips, I found that using an old credit card, inserted about 1/4”, to run along the left and right side popped those end retaining clips right off with no problem. You may need to twist the card slightly when in the middle area to help pop those off.

    bdahl385 - Réponse

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    • Pour des raisons de précaution, nous conseillons de déconnecter le connecteur de la batterie de la carte mère pour éviter une décharge électrique. Cette étape est facultative et non obligatoire.

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Il est peut-être plus facile de soulever les deux côtés du connecteur avec vos ongles.

    you do not need to remove the battery when replacing the hard drive or ram

    brilldoctor - Réponse

    beware not to lift the connector to close of the angle, as the picture suggest it. It might broke the angle. Attack by the middle.

    naamol - Réponse

    Not necessary?

    hikkymemo - Réponse

    Be careful of the corner of the battery cable connector when trying to pry it off with the spudge. I knocked the corner of mine. No operational impact but was not very pleasing!

    jljordanweb - Réponse

    Not necessary, but a good idea, so as to avoid any spurious charges going through the boards...

    svenaustx - Réponse

    @Svenaustx - What could happen if not removing this battery? Worst case? Not a geek on this but did change RAM on my Macbook Pro "15. Can't remember disconneting the battery back then. Shouldn't it be sufficient shutting the Mac off and ensure it has been used for an hour or so before replacing RAM?

    Allan Clarke -

    i used a metal pry and noticed some sparking when i disconnected the battery. replaced ram. now it wont turn on. did i fry it?

    Ian Lynch - Réponse

    • Retirez les vis suivantes de la grille d'aération arrière, du côté du lecteur optique :

      • Deux vis Torx T8 10 mm

      • Deux vis Phillips 5 mm

    Hi, i have an issue with the screw in the middle: it is blocked and the top is now damaged... Any suggestion?

    Corrado - Réponse

    I have a problem with the two middle screws

    Harlan Shannon - Réponse

    • Retirez les vis suivantes de la grille d'aération arrière, du côté du port :

      • Deux vis Torx T8 10 mm

      • Deux vis Phillips 5 mm

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    • Sortez avec précaution la grille d'aération arrière du boîtier supérieur.

    you can actually stop disassembling now and try to replace it now. after removing two t6 screws it came off pretty easily

    grze - Réponse

    Good tip, thanks! I skipped ahead to step 17 and had no problem getting the magsafe board out from under the logic board and the new one installed. Saves a lot of work disconnecting connectors indicated as Fragile!

    matt15 -

    Thank You! Saved me an hour or so of work and a lot of stress!

    15sweyandt -

    I also did Step 6, then skipped to Step 17 & 18. Once I had the display data cable off, I could remove the 2 T6 Torx screws holding the MagSafe board on and remove it. You can reach under the logic board with the point of the spudger to work the cable out of the socket. Note how you maneuver the board out of the tight space so you can maneuver it back in. When you put the new MagSafe board in, plug in the cable first. If you bend the wires so the plug approaches the socket at the appropriate angle, you can nudge it in with the pointed end of the spudger.

    hpendleton -

    Thanks a lot for this hint! You saved my macbook, when I failed to unscrew the fan because of one completely destroyed screw. Thanks to your comment I skipped steps 7-16 and went straight to replacing the magsafe board without problems. The spudger and some 3D imagination and done,

    Sebastian M -

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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