Introduction
Ce tutoriel vous guidera pas à pas dans le démontage de votre manette Oculus Question 2 et vous permettra d'accéder au joystick pour le nettoyer et ainsi empêcher le curseur de bouger tout seul sur l'écran.
La procédure comporte des risques. Il est fréquent de perdre des pièces ou d'endommager l'appareil. Ouvrir la manette annulera sa garantie si elle est encore en cours.
J'ai d'abord utilisé du nettoyant contact pour faire disparaître le problème du joystick drift, le curseur qui bouge seul, mais ça finissait toujours pas revenir. Avec le temps, il s'écoulait de moins en moins de temps avant que le problème n’apparaisse ; alors j'ai décidé d'ouvrir la manette pour comprendre ce qui se passait et régler le problème.
Avant de vous lancer là-dedans, je vous recommande d'essayer du nettoyant contact.
3 conseils avant d'utiliser du nettoyant contact:
- Retirez la batterie avant !
- Pas besoin de mettre beaucoup de nettoyant (si vous en mettez trop dans le joystick, ça va mettre beaucoup de temps à sécher puisque la manette est scellée. Je laisse sécher la manette à l'envers pendant 5 à 10 minutes.)
- Appuyez sur le joystick pendant que vous appliquez le nettoyant pour qu'il puisse atteindre le capteur.
- Quand vous avez appliqué le nettoyant, faites des cercles avec le joystick. Cela permettra de bien appliquer le nettoyant partout sur le capteur, pour bien le nettoyer.
- Appuyer sur le joystick tout en faisant des cercles ne fait pas de différence. C'est peut-être même moins efficace ainsi.
J'espère que ce tutoriel aidera quiconque se sentira l'âme courageuse pour tenter la manœuvre. A minima, vous saurez enfin pourquoi le curseur bouge tout seul et pourquoi noyer le joystick dans du nettoyant contact ne fonctionne pas.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Commencez par ouvrir le compartiment à piles et par retirer les piles, avec vos doigts ou un outil afin de les soulever en douceur.
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Retirez les trois autocollants qui cachent les vis avec vos ongles ou un outil pointu, comme une pincette.
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Dévissez les trois vis Torx T5 cachées derrière les autocollants, avec un petit tournevis Torx.
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Retirez les quatre vis qui se trouvent dans l'espace en haut du compartiment à piles avec le même tournevis.
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Retirez le cache en douceur avec une spatule (spudger) ou un tournevis plat.
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Retirez les cinq vis Torx T5.
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Retirez la vis noire T5 plus longue.
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Retirez les deux vis T4 plus petites.
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Retirez la longue vis T5 argentée.
The ring is going to fight you every step of the way, by design. Many of the screws are angled in such a way as to put the ring in the way of a driver. You may need to just use a bit and hand-screw them.
It seems, that the yellow marked screws are something under T5, like T4 or T3. With my T5 bit, i couldn't remove these screws.
Yes, I use T4 for the yellow marked screws
can sombody help i cant remove the blue marked screw at all when i screw it it just scews in place and bobs up and down a little i tried it on the other controller and it does the same thing
When unscrewing, slip something like a credit card or other type of flat plastic shim under the screw head with one hand while unscrewing with the other
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Utilisez une spatule ou un tournevis pour appuyer sur le crochet en plastique jusqu'à ce qu'il se détache.
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En commençant par le côté sans le crochet, retirez en douceur la coque avec vos mains en l'éloignant du milieu de la console.
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Avec vos mains, éloignez légèrement (0,5 cm) la partie gauche de la poignée de la manette.
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Tout en maintenant cette partie gauche, enfoncez la partie droite vers le corps de la manette.
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Vous pouvez maintenant glisser la partie droite vers la droite pour la retirer.
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La goupille est ici.
I am struggling with this step there is a pin holding it right behind the button you push with your middle finger and it won’t come loose.
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Déconnectez la nappe. Il y a un loquet à soulever sur le circuit imprimé (flèche bleue). C'est facile à retirer, mais compliqué à remettre. Assurez-vous d'avoir une pince à bec effilé ou une pincette pour cette étape du remontage.
You just need to pull, in paralel direction to the board. There is no latch to open. I got it back in using flat head pliers but slightly scratched the coating. Still works but idealy you use pliers with plastic tips.
There is a latch on almost all ribbon connectors, if you didn't find it, you risk breaking it
You can get to this ribbon cable if you teardown the handle further and then you can remove the ribbon cable from the handle and fit it better to the circuit board and avoid the risk of tearing the ribbon cable just by removing the bottom part behind the battery bay and to give your self more space you can remove the bottom trigger
I agree that removing the rest of the handle and removing the ribbon from both ends is easier. The ribbon is also glue to part of the handle so don't pull on it and be careful freeing it as it can tear if you using anything sharp. Other wise it's fairly difficult to put back on.
I struggled with getting the ribbon cable re-attached until I saw this Youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZ57n6ia.... At 9:20 he explains how to break the handle down further. After that, it took me 10 seconds.
A nabour tore the ribbon cable connector of the board when taking the controller apart. Anyone know the name of the connector model?
Thanks!And... this is where I broke the latch 😒....
Ok now I'm pretty sure I broke the latch because there is no latch to lift up. This may have changed in most recent controllers, but THERE WAS NO LATCH on mine. VR Wizard is right. It just needs to be pulled horizontally.
This tutorial need to be amended. It literally made me break the connector 😓
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Maintenant, retirez les quatre vis qui fixent le circuit imprimé sur la manette.
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Le joystick a également une petite nappe (flèche bleue), mais elle est facile à connecter et déconnecter. Ouvrez le loquet pour déconnecter la nappe.
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Soulevez le circuit imprimé et détachez le joystick. Le bouton X et le bouton Oculus risquent de tomber. Pas grave, assurez-vous simplement de les remettre correctement en place avant de tout refermer.
this looks extremely similar to gulikit switch joy-cons anyone knows if they could be used instead?
https://gulikit.com/productinfo/945307.h...Sadly no they cant.
The switch thumbsticks go at a right angle to their contact point. These as you can see are a straight line.
It would make things much easier tho. But, companies gotta be all unique with their stuff and have zero interchangeability. Honestly i keep praying someone will come up with “hall effect” sticks for quest and switch.
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Retirez le cache en caoutchouc du joystick.
There is a myth going around that the Oculus/Meta Quest 2 joystick/ thumbsticks have a capacitive censor on the rubber pads. That seems to not be the case as there are no circuits attached to it.
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Le boîtier du joystick est maintenu par des languettes sur la partie inférieure. Tordez-les légèrement pour l'ouvrir. Soyez prudent, il y a beaucoup de petites pièces et un ressort qui peuvent s'envoler.
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Voici l'ensemble des pièces qui composent la partie inférieure du joystick.
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1. Le capteur, qui fait bouger le curseur tout seul quand il est sale.
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2. La partie inférieure dans laquelle le joystick s'encastre. C'est ce qui fait bouger le capteur à droite et à gauche.
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3. Cette pièce va sur la pièce n°2. C'est ce qui fait bouger le capteur vers le haut et le bas.
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4. Le joystick. Il va dans le trou de la pièce n°3 et le tout rentre dans la pièce N°2.
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5. Ces deux pièces permettent de faire bouger le capteur et elles sont guidées par les pièces n°2 et n°3.
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PAS SUR LA PHOTO - Il y a une petite pièce en plastique noir qui a la forme d'une arche qui maintient la pièce n°2 en place.
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Voici l'ensemble des pièces qui composent la partie supérieure du joystick.
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6. Boîtier en métal.
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7. Ressort pour pousser le joystick.
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8. Un anneau en métal pour maintenir le joystick en place et rétracter le ressort (n°7).
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9. Boîtier en plastique.
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Maintenant que tout est démonté, utilisez du nettoyant contact pour nettoyer les pièces encadrées en rouge sur la photo. Nettoyer le capteur est le plus important. Après avoir appliqué le nettoyant, j'utilise une petite brosse pour le nettoyer.
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Les trois composants noirs (flèches bleues) sont ce qui permet de reconnaître les commandes haut/bas/gauche/droite. S'il y a quoi que ce soit sur ces composants, cela provoque le problème de curseur qui bouge tout seul. Plus vous utilisez votre manette, plus ces composants noirs s'effritent et laissent des résidus.
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Si vous utilisez votre manette suffisamment longtemps, cette pièce finira par casser sans possibilité d'être réparée. C'est un problème pour toutes les manettes, pas seulement Oculus.
so seeming that the problem is residue from the black material and foreign debris. is it possible to seal the housing?
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Mettez le joystick dans l'ouverture et fixez la pièce n°2 en bas du joystick, comme ceci. Les pièces n°2 et n°3 ne peuvent entrer dans cette ouverture que d'une certaine façon. Si cela ne bouge pas correctement, c'est probablement de là que vient le problème.
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Poussez doucement le joystick vers le haut pour placer les pièces n°5. Les pièces n°2 et n°3 sont au-dessus de la pièce n°5. A ce stade, vous devriez pouvoir vous rendre compte de la manière dans le joystick fait bouger la pièce n°5.
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Placez le ressort et la petite pièce noire. Cette petite pièce (flèche bleue) maintient la pièce n°2 en place.
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Mettez le capteur dans le boîtier en métal. Il n'y a qu'une seule manière de le positionner.
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Pressez maintenant les deux boîtiers ensemble, sans rien laisser glisser.
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Tordez légèrement les onglets métalliques pour qu'ils maintiennent le tout.
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Suivez les instructions en sens inverse pour tout remonter. Attention avec la nappe à l'étape 6.
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Certaines pièces nécessitent un peu de doigté pour être remontées, surtout celles qui entourent la gâchette.
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Assurez-vous de n'avoir déconnecté aucune nappe. La dernière fois que j'ai fait ça, j'ai accidentellement desserré une nappe sous la gâchette (flèche bleue) et elle a fini par se déconnecter.
Can you reattach the the part the ribbon slides into if it comes detached from the circuit bouard
my controller doesn't have screws behind the battery place
You have to remove the sticker first
Hello. Can anyone help me with a problem i have?
I think i might've damaged my controllers in the process.
the right controller wont track properly and randomly disconnects and connects. and sometimes it disconnects completely.
even with a fully charged battery inside. i have to take the battery out and put in again to make the controller work again.
the tracking is all over the place.
my left controller works fine no problems at all.Thank you so much mate. Turns out my sensors were dirty, and it was causing a massive drift to the right.
After cleaning and air spraying it, works like a charm.
yay i fixed mine by cleaning the green pcb part thing with a cotton ball damped with isopropyl 70% alcohol
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans le sens inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans le sens inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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36 commentaires
i wanna know how the controller worke. infared or bluetooth, or even area positioning system bull $@$*, please help actually sent from my quest 2
The controller uses infared to connect to the quest 2.
Lucas C -
That's BS. It uses Bluetooth 5.0 LE. The Quest 2 has no way to send or recieve IR
Both replies are half right. The controllers use BT to connect to the headset for functionality, but positional tracking is done via infrared in the halos. The 4 cameras on the front of the headset are infrared cameras.
Justin P -
Yeah, a basic inspection of the controller says it does not operate by infrared. Infrared is an optic device, and the controller has no optics. I'll stick with Lucas on this one.
Justin P has the correct answer. Button / Trigger / Analog-Stick / Touch-Sensor inputs are communicated to the headset through bluetooth, while the positional tracking of the controllers is done visually through the headset's cameras which are looking for the (invisible to human eye) infrared spots emitted from ir leds in the controller's ring.
-A VR Developer
BAM5 -
Bam5 is correct. I suppose everybody was on the right path but he nailed it with an excellent correct explanation.
The controller has about 12 Infra-red lights on the controller, and the headset has IR cameras that track the distance between the lights on the controllers and does some algorithm stuff to work out the position of the controllers. Then bluetooth handles the controllers buttons and also the other sensors like an accelerometer. These sensors are used whenever the cameras cant see the controller and it does track pretty well when its behind your back etc. but only for about 3-10 seconds
Nick -
Thank you! This guide saved me from purchasing a new left controller, when it developed at “stutter” or “stumble” when i tried moving forwards. I followed the guide, though i didnt have any contact cleaner. I used isopropylalcohol on cotton swab (cotton bud?) instead with excellent results.
thank you, fixed my controller when adjusting the deadzone and spraying contact cleaner from the outside didnt help.
thank you, but I tried opening mine and the analog assembly looks a little bit different from yours. for one the outer casing is black plastic instead of white, and on the sensor inside it only has 2 black pads while the other ones are just bare copper traces. also there are no small black piece that holds #2 in place.
I tried cleaning them still with mixed result. it does help with the jitter issue (in my case the analog keeps being tilted down on its own randomly) but it doesn't entirely fix the problem for me.
replacing the whole analog part might be the only way but sadly it's hard to find replacement for
here's a picture for reference https://imgur.com/a/kys5llb
Replacements are available on aliexpress
Lucas C -
you can buy replacement analogs on amazon
I got one for $12 USD
It comes with tools as well!
Replacement now available on Aliexpress.
I need help with the infrared LED. Everything seems fine, pressing the Oculus button + B does make the controller vibrate, but the LED's wont turn on.
This worked for me. Thank you for such a detailed instruction.
The symptom I experienced was that the RIGHT controller was not selecting items in the O2 home menus. This is because the left controller joystick was constantly stealing the focus due to "noise" that this wonderful guide helps resolve. Thank you thank you thank you!
I did this fix this evening and the drift is completely gone. there is 0 drift now. One thing that I would recommend you add to your tutorial as I have a problem that future me will have to tackle.... When putting everything back together, please mention that the long silver screw should not be over tightened as it is very easy to break. I tightened the long silver screw and after trying to make sure it was tight, the top part without thread broke off. :-/
BUT.... nothing structurally was compromised or loose. I will just have a problem when I go to clean the joystick once more.
Thank you for this tutorial.
@matty_mac are you actually still alive? I would love to have a video tutorial because my small brain can't get the controller back together. Would this be possible for you or anyone else with experience?
There's a dude on YouTube goes by ima_rainbow who fr does a kickass video tutorial on this if ur still needing one , or if anyone that sees this is looking for one. Dude was the only reason I choked up the courage to open mine up but ifixit (amazing site js fr lol) was the only reason I got the balls to attempt opening up the headset itself actually, when it got stuck in a bootloop
Alguna idea de como reparar el gatillo lateral?
These are fantastic instructions. The symptom for me was that left & right was drifting and not working consistently. Upon disassembly of my joystick I found that one of the black plastic pieces (the tab that controls left-right, unsurprisingly) was broken. Gluing it wasn't a realistic option so I ordered a replacement part.
Spilled some juice on the controller and the stick was stuck reading full left. Removing cap and injecting spray didn't help. Teardown revealed the joystick ribbon connector was contaminated.
Sprayed connector with electrical cleaner for a few seconds, reassembled, and performed stick calibration - good as new.
Thx for the teardown instructions!
The ribbon cords that r warned about at the end of this marked by the blue arrows , in case anyone else ever goes thru wat I did at least , over time have a possibility of popping off the circuit board (well the connector for the ribbon cord technically, meaning the cord is in the connector also js) and it will cause the controller to basically vibrate over and over and over plus not track since those r the ribbon cords for the sensors that go along the ring. And if this is something that happens and ur like someone like myself who doesnt own a soldering iron dont go running to buy a new controller, and I'm sure theres probably plenty of people who will look at this and say I'm fukn with people when I say if u have it at ur disposal just simply gorilla glue it back on. Obviously it doesnt need more than a drop of it but as long as u line up the popped off connector to where it should be which isnt hard and let dry rq its highly likely ull get it working again. Dont believe me well u can try it not like u can
Break it if it's already broken so. Plus if ur having to get to this point because ur $@$* won't work wat else do u gotta lose lol at least that was my mentality.
can sombody help i cant remove the blue marked screw at all when i screw it it just scews in place and bobs up and down a little i tried it on the other controller and it does the same thing
The main ribbon that is inserted into the motherboard came off. Can you help me with this? Below I have tried to explain it best I could. I had no problem with taking everything apart following your directions and it was when I was doing the assembly and went to attach the ribbon the part attached to the motherboard that the ribbon slipped into came off the motherboard. It almost seemed powdery and crumbled off. I'm no tech but was wondering if this is something I can fix or do I need professional help. Thanks and I really like your tutorials they are very helpful.
*This is the ribbon I'm referring to from the dismantling controller directions Step 6 but I was reassembling at this point. "There is a latch you flip up on the circuit board (blue arrow). This is easy to take apart but a pain to put back together. Make sure you have needle-nose pliers or tweezers for this when you put it back together." Démontage d'une manette Oculus Quest 2
i eefed up the ribbon socket (step 6) it can be fixed ?
Thank you for the tutorial. I did as you explained and it worked wonderfully, no drift anymore.
Details about step 5 of prying the controller apart and disconnecting the ribbon in step 6 can be supplemented with additional steps found in:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZ57n6ia... between 9min00 and 10min45.
Thanks again for the help.
Gotta say, this tutorial is way too good. Got my drift fixed on my first try!
