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Introduction

Votre Wi-Fi ne fonctionne pas correctement ? Vous n'arrivez pas à vous connecté à ce réseau internet du café où vous êtes, même après avoir tout essayé ? Suivez ces étapes pour apprendre comment y remédier.

  1. Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, qui fixent le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
    • Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, qui fixent le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :

    • Deux vis Pentalobe P5 de 2,3 mm

    • Huit vis Pentalobe P5 de 3,0 mm

    • Tout au long de cette réparation, prenez note de l'emplacement de chaque vis, et assurez-vous qu'elle retrouvera sa place initiale pour éviter d'endommager votre appareil.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Réponse

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Réponse

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Réponse

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Réponse

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Réponse

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Réponse

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Réponse

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Réponse

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Réponse

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - Réponse

  2. Glissez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.
    • Glissez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.

    • Séparez avec précaution les deux boîtiers, soulevez et retirez le boîtier inférieur.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Réponse

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Réponse

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - Réponse

  3. Le boîtier inférieur est attaché au boîtier supérieur par deux attaches en plastique au milieu. Lors du remontage, appuyez doucement sur le milieu du boîtier inférieur pour que les deux attaches s'enclenchent à nouveau.
    • Le boîtier inférieur est attaché au boîtier supérieur par deux attaches en plastique au milieu.

    • Lors du remontage, appuyez doucement sur le milieu du boîtier inférieur pour que les deux attaches s'enclenchent à nouveau.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Réponse

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Réponse

  4. Si nécessaire, retirez le cache en plastique couvrant la carte de contact de la batterie.
    • Si nécessaire, retirez le cache en plastique couvrant la carte de contact de la batterie.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - Réponse

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - Réponse

  5. Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), tirez le connecteur de la batterie tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère. Assurez-vous de faire levier uniquement sur le connecteur et non pas sur sa prise, sinon vous risquez d'endommager irréversiblement la carte mère.
    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), tirez le connecteur de la batterie tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier uniquement sur le connecteur et non pas sur sa prise, sinon vous risquez d'endommager irréversiblement la carte mère.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Réponse

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Réponse

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Réponse

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Réponse

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - Réponse

  6. Pliez le connecteur de la batterie vers le haut afin d'éviter tout contact accidentel avec la prise pendant la réparation.
    • Pliez le connecteur de la batterie vers le haut afin d'éviter tout contact accidentel avec la prise pendant la réparation.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Réponse

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Réponse

  7. Passez le bout de la spatule (spduger) en dessous de chaque câble d'antennes afin de les déconnecter de la carte AirPort. Ces trois câbles sont identifiables grâces aux manchons de longueur différentes. Durant le ré-assemblage : Connectez le câble avec le long manchon au connecteur du milieu.
    • Passez le bout de la spatule (spduger) en dessous de chaque câble d'antennes afin de les déconnecter de la carte AirPort.

    • Ces trois câbles sont identifiables grâces aux manchons de longueur différentes. Durant le ré-assemblage :

    • Connectez le câble avec le long manchon au connecteur du milieu.

    • Connectez le câble avec le petit manchon à côté de la vis.

    • Le câble restant n'a pas de manchon et se connecte sur le connecteur restant, c'est à dire celui à côté du ventilateur.

  8. Ôtez la seule vis Torx T5 de 2,7 mm fixant la carte Airport à la carte mère.
    • Ôtez la seule vis Torx T5 de 2,7 mm fixant la carte Airport à la carte mère.

  9. Soulevez un peu l'extrémité libre de la carte AirPort, ensuite tirez-la tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère. Soulevez un peu l'extrémité libre de la carte AirPort, ensuite tirez-la tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère. Soulevez un peu l'extrémité libre de la carte AirPort, ensuite tirez-la tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Soulevez un peu l'extrémité libre de la carte AirPort, ensuite tirez-la tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces étapes dans le sens inverse.

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10 commentaires

Is this responsible for wifi? I re-did my screen and fixed it from blackening, but the wifi icon says "Wi-Fi: No hardware installed". Is this part responsible? If I replace it will I get wifi back?

Howard Lin - Réponse

I changed the card and the wifi keep disabling itself after few minutes of use. Only reboot reactivate it.. Someone have an idea ?

Phil - Réponse

Hey! have you found a solution? I have been having the same problem!

juiquebec -

I am having the same exact problem as described by Phil - 04/25/2017

I replaced the card but the wifi and bluetooth keeps disabling itself after few minutes of use , only reboot reactivate it.

I am thinking of changing the antenna ? any ideas? suggestion ?

your help will be very much appreciated .

Lio - Réponse

This isn’t the solution you are looking for, but what I did to my 2015 mbp when the wifi card started failing was getting an external wifi adapter. It’s cheaper, small enough, and works. I got this type: https://www.tp-link.com/us/support/downl... but any type works, this one is just small enough to be unassuming.

stefanikid - Réponse

Hi peeps,

I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

dom

colonel mustard - Réponse

I have mac pro 13” 2015 late model, I'm having similar wifi connectivity issue, I have tried all troubleshooting like nvram ,svc and all finally removed airport from I/o board and put it back however it didn't solved the wifi issue. Sometimes wifi connect sometimes not, when ther’s no wifi I used to restart the system but it's not working all the time.

Any idea what's the real problem , do I have to replace airport , will that solve the issue?

Safir - Réponse

I received one of these MacBook Pros with the left wire completely frayed and detached! No display signal on the internal display whatsoever. Is the problem because of this wire not being attached, or is it elsewhere? I get an external display signal without issue. I tried restoring the original OS, same problem. Display System Preferences can’t detect it. The LVDI cable on the other side is fine. One other thing is, all the screws are the same short length holding the bottom case. Someone reassembled this machine and lost the screws!

Abraham - Réponse

Says 2015 rMBP repair, but all the images are from 2013/14 model… they are the similar, but not exactly the same

oldnwstf - Réponse

Can the board be installed in a 2014?

Jon - Réponse

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