Avec ce tutoriel, remplacez la carte E/S de votre MacBook Air, qui inclut les ports de la prise d'alimentation MagSafe, USB et Audio.

  1. Avant de commencer, éteignez votre appareil. Fermez l'écran et posez-le à l'envers sur une surface douce.
    • Avant de commencer, éteignez votre appareil. Fermez l'écran et posez-le à l'envers sur une surface douce.

    • Retirez les dix vis suivantes :

      • Deux vis Pentalobe P5 9 mm

      • Huit vis Pentalobe P5 2.6 mm

    • Vous trouverez ici le tournevis spécial dont vous aurez besoin pour enlever les vis Pentalobe.

    These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

    Rulle Boer - Réponse

    My Wiha P5 screwdriver was too big for these screws, but my P4 worked fine.

    BrianM -

    The pentalobe screw size is 1.2 mm for Macbook Air.

    Jose Gustavo Abreu Murta -

    The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

    I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

    budpegasus - Réponse

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Réponse

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Réponse

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Réponse

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Réponse

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Réponse

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Réponse

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Réponse

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Réponse

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Réponse

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Réponse

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Réponse

  2. Mettez vos doigts entre l'écran et le boîtier inférieur et tirez vers le haut pour détacher le boîtier inférieur.
    • Mettez vos doigts entre l'écran et le boîtier inférieur et tirez vers le haut pour détacher le boîtier inférieur.

    • Enlevez la partie inférieure et mettez-la de côté.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Réponse

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Réponse

    • Afin d'éviter un choc ou une décharge accidentelle, prenez la précaution de déconnecter le connecteur de batterie de la carte mère.

    • Saisissez la languette en plastique transparent attachée au connecteur de la batterie, et tirez-la vers l'avant du MacBook Air pour déconnecter la batterie de la carte mère.

    • Veillez à tirer le connecteur verticalement vers la batterie, et non pas vers le haut. Vous risqueriez d'endommager la prise sur la carte mère.

    The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

    mjmorawski - Réponse

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur de la nappe de la carte E/S hors de sa prise sur la carte E/S.

    Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

    They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

    I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

    Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

    A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

    Ben - Réponse

    • Décollez soigneusement la nappe de la carte E/S du haut du ventilateur.

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    • Le connecteur suivant a une prise particulièrement profonde. Faites attention en le déconnectant.

    • Pendant que vous soulevez doucement la nappe de la carte E/S en prenant prise près de la connexion à la carte mère, faites levier avec la pointe d'une spatule sur les côtés du connecteur pour l'aider à "sortir" de sa prise.

    • Retirez la nappe de la carte E/S.

    This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

    yurkennis - Réponse

    Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

    David Robillard - Réponse

  3. Répandez la magie de Noël
    Obtenez 12 $ de réduction sur les commandes de 50 $ ou plus avec le code FIXMAS12
    Répandez la magie de Noël
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    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez soigneusement le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du ventilateur.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue articulé et non pas sur la prise elle-même.

    It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

    ezequielaceto - Réponse

    It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

    Goth70 Fuzed - Réponse

    If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

    Lester Newsom - Réponse

    I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

    David Robillard - Réponse

    Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?

    Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.

    Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!

    Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable

    Adam Banko - Réponse

    • Décollez le joint en caoutchouc de la bande adhésive sur le haut du ventilateur.

    Note how the “ears” of the gasket are routed

    davecortesi - Réponse

    • Dévissez les trois vis suivantes, fixant le ventilateur au boîtier supérieur :

      • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,6 mm

      • Une vis Torx T5 de 2,7 mm

      • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,6 mm à courte tête

    • Ôtez le ventilateur du boîtier supérieur en débranchant soigneusement la nappe du ventilateur de sa prise.

    Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

    kennyavis81 - Réponse

    On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

    Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

    paul deacon - Réponse

    The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

    peteragries - Réponse

    This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

    it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

    leesparey - Réponse

    Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

    Allen - Réponse

    Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

    jerry bennett - Réponse

    • Déconnectez la carte E/S en débranchant la nappe d'alimentation de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Tirez sur la nappe parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère, vers le côté droit de l'Air.

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    • Tirez sur la nappe de la caméra parallèlement à la surface de la carte E/S, vers le coin de l'Air pour le débrancher de sa prise, en vous aidant de la pointe d'une spatule pour pousser le connecteur hors de sa prise.

    • Ne tirez pas la nappe vers le haut pendant que vous la débranchez. La prise risque de casser et de se détacher de la carte mère.

    Mine was very reluctant... couldn't get any purchase with a spudger, had to use flat tweezers to get enough grip on the cable. Exerted slowly increasing pull, but when it came out, it broke loose suddenly.

    Allen - Réponse

    My Macbook Air (2013) didn't have this cable.

    Phillip Remaker - Réponse

    Mine too, only a slot where a cable was passing,

    Gianni Borghesan -

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur de la nappe du haut-parleur gauche pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte E/S.

    • Faites levier sous les fils.

    • Enlevez la nappe du haut-parleur gauche de son dispositif d'attache sur la carte E/S.

    On re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0

    Anyone know what this means.

    Daniel Thomas - Réponse

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur de la nappe du microphone gauche pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte E/S.

    • Faites levier sous les fils.

    Be very careful: it is quite easy to accidentally pry the whole cable connector from the I/O board.

    Dallas Guy - Réponse

    What do you do if this happens? Buy a whole new I/O board?

    adamwitz -

    I agree, I found this to be the only critical step of the entire disassembly procedure: I snapped the microphone connector socket off the board despite applying a relatively gentle pull on the cables. Fortunately I did this on a dead MBair from which I wanted to get the display, but now I'm afraid of doing the same damage while installing the display on the target MBair!

    Any tricks/tips would be most welcome.


    Lorenzo Cangiano - Réponse

    Following up on my previous post I'd like to share how I eventually circumvented the risk of snapping the microphone connector socket on the I/O board. Instead of attempting to disconnect the mic (as suggested in this guide, step 14), I did the following: a. remove the battery, b. detach the right speaker, c. detach the microphone from the outer case (for steps b and c I followed the iFixit guide on how to replace a MacbookAir microphone). The advantage is that the microphone can now remain safely connected to the I/O board. Of course when reassembling the mac one has to reverse these extra steps (the microphone can be easily reattached to the case as it has a sticky side). I would strongly advise iFixit to revise this guide accordingly!

    Lorenzo Cangiano -

    I don't think this step is necessary if you aren't seeking to fully remove the I/O board - if you are seeking only to remove the heatsink, you can skip this step, leave this delicate cable attached, then in the next couple steps you'll end up "flipping" the board out of the way, while leaving this cable connected.

    coopermarcus - Réponse

    Maybe I just lucked out but removing the mic cable was about the same effort as the left speaker cable. I wasn't ready to try Lorenzo's workaround above without a photo guide, so took my chances. Your mileage may vary.

    Allen - Réponse

    • Dévissez l'unique vis Torx T5 de 3,6 mm fixant la carte E/S au boîtier supérieur.

    The screw was stripped and I couldn’t remove it, but it didn’t matter, I could complete removal of the logic board without removing the I/O board. I think the steps involved with disconnecting the I/O board are redundant.

    Nigel Anderson - Réponse

    • Soulevez délicatement la carte E/S par son côté le plus proche de la carte mère et ôtez-la du boitier supérieur.

    When following these instructions in reverse, and reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to carefully check and adjust the alignment of the ports on the board with the holes in the case - it is especially obvious if the headphone port is mis-aligned with the case.

    coopermarcus - Réponse

    Also on reassembly, make sure the speaker and microphone cables are visible before securing the i/o board!

    davecortesi - Réponse

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17 commentaires

just replaced i/o board,quick and easy,great guide

railroads12345 - Réponse

My I/O board USB socket was dead with a bent pin. Replaced it following this guide, everything went perfectly, and I've got working USB again.

Diagnosis procedure: shine a flashlight into your suspect USB socket. If you can see a pin against the back of the socket, there's your problem.

ephraim - Réponse

so easy ,tks ifixit

jbejarano79 - Réponse

Step 15: had I read all the comments, I would have avoided breaking the microphone connector (thank you Lorenzo Cangiano all the same!). But the guide should have a red exclamation point warning about not prying on the front of this connector when it doesn't respond easily to prying under the cables. It is not obvious that one should not be able to pry on all sides, and the guide only has an "Information" note for this.

jsheats - Réponse

Just followed this guide to replace a burnt out/corroded power socket. I bought the part from this site. Now the power is fixed, but the USB socket does not seem to mount anything, as in it doesn't work. I have not tested the headphone port. An interesting observation: the first time I turned my macbook back on using battery power it said battery not available. I turned it off and on again and this resolved the issue.

Does anyone have any ideas about the USB port not working? Have I bought a faulty I/O board from IFixit?

Emmanuel Malikides - Réponse

Today repaired my MacBook Air mid 2011. The charger and USB is working fine but my MacBook Air says their is no audio hardware. So I have no audio input or output from my MacBook Air it self anymore. Even if I plug in my airpods nothing happens. Airplay and bluetooth audio works fine.

I checked the installation of the I/O board and it is installed in the right way. After that I did a Safe mode boot, PRAM reset, SMC reset, a new OS instal and a complete disk repair. Nothing seems to help. So, the only left possibility is a hardware failure of the I/O board?

isellis - Réponse

Did you buy the board from ifixit? I have the same issue regarding audio (no audio device found), in addition to the usb port not working.

Emmanuel Malikides - Réponse

Hello guys! My MBAir doesn't charge anymore. I replaced the charger and it only lasted a while before stopping again to charge.

I want to replace the MagSafe module, buying it from the site, but I need to be sure that the other components (USB and mic) ar going to work fine.

Can anyone who bought the same part from here confirm anything is going to be fine? I read some comments that didn't convince me.

Waiting for your feedbacks, thank you very much for any help.

Alfredo De Santis - Réponse

If any one could tell me If this part "I/O Board" is new or in used condtion ???

irfan yousaf - Réponse

Used. There is no "new" part to sell in any site. Maybe just Apple has new parts to sell (for a expensive price, of course).

Alexandre Formagio - Réponse

I had the same "no audio" (mic) issue with an IO board (purchased from ifixit also, p/n 5000826, IF 188-069-1), I took my MB to apple service and they installed an original IO board and got audio back.

pboix - Réponse

The guide is 100% ok, just it seem that there was some "issue" with the IO board, since I am abroad it was easier for me to find another solution locally since I needed to solve the issue and was not able to wait for the whole process of claim a warranty on the board.

pboix - Réponse

Worked perfect! glad to have my computer back and running. I ordered the i/o board part along with the basic repair kit from iFixIt, and both the part and kit were great quality. Thanks!

jad - Réponse

Can anyone confirm if the one from 2013 A1466 (usb3.0) will work in A1369 2011?? They look identical

Christopher Lord - Réponse

Everything seemed t go well. The camera and USB port are fine. But on re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0

Anyone know what this means?

Daniel Thomas - Réponse

Replacing this part resurrected my 2011 13” MacBook Air. However, no internal speakers when finished. Headphones, USB, and magsafe all work, just no internal speakers. Go the part from iFixit. Glad my machine is usable again, but very disappointed that I can’t hear any audio.

Phillip Coffman - Réponse

is this guide good for macair 11 inch early 2014 and 2015??

isabel - Réponse

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