Remplacement de la carte de raccordement MacBook Pro 13" Unibody mi-2012

Does void the warranty?

No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...

I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

Hey guys,

this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

Hello MacWorld,

Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!

wer 10/5/15

I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.

on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one

I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.

I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.

A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help

Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.

when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.

this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.

The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).

Two screw types:

______________________________

Shouldered Unshouldered

xxxxxxx……….xxxxxxx

..xxxxx……..….…….x…….

…..x……..…...……….x…….

…..x…………....……..x…….

______________________________

If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.

My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

I did this last weekend, and definitely, a Phillips #000 screwdriver is required (not a Phillips #00!)

WIll this card be good with MacBookPro 17 inch 2011

I just followed this guide and it really helped me install a replacement cable and a new Samsung 860 EVO 500gb SSD in my aging MacBook Pro 13 A1278 MID 2012. It’s performing like a new machine now! The guide worked fine, but I’m curious why this HD cable costs €45 on Ifixit’s webshop, and only €13 on Amazon.de (I live in Europe)? The Amazon purchase also included two screwdrivers and a spudger.

I found out that one way to reduce the chance to loose screws is to leave them in their holes of the lower case right after unscrewing them. In fact, you can put the lower case back in place with all but one screws in place. The only one that I ever needed to put apart was the long one at the top right in the picture (the one that goes close to the display data cable underneath the lower case). Hope this help others! and you stop wondering about shouldered versus not shouldered short (3.5mm) ones :-)

For a MBP 2011, I’m not able to unscrew one of the 14.4 mm in the lower back. Can I know how can I get that done?. Thank you..

very nice '''artical keep it up'''

If the black vent window that is attached to the back cover becomes loose what kind of glue should be used to attach it again, thermal paste or super glue?

Thanks for your help.

Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?

Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery cable....no issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX Yosemite....next I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.

Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.

I took off th Airport /Bluetooth connectors but the number J3 connector is broken and so where can i buy J3 connecter for the Airport/bluetooth board

Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector

DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!

Followed the tuto Step by step. Disconnected the battery (quite easily).

No problem when I lit the Mac on again. Battery's here, date's right.

Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.

I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.

Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!

The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201165

I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.

Hello!

Do I really need to use a spudger tool? Can’t I just use like two plectrums for guitar? xD

I have a late 2011 MacBook Pro 13in and did not disconnect the power from the battery. I upgraded from 4gb to 16gb and worked perfectly. Just make sure to power it down and be gentle. It was super easy and quick, and I feel a significant boost in performance. Cant wait to install my 1TB SSD Samsung 860 next!

Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

u can use 16GB DDR3 @ 1600mhz. intel says 16 @ 1333, and apple 8.

apple will solder even the folders to the background for to sell you the “open” or “move to the trash” command. if the battery is not removable, its not a casuality…. u can be sure

Would draining the battery (by using the machine until it runs out of power) do the trick for this? Seems it would be less risky than potentially damaging the connector/cable during disconnection for example.

Cannot install any os on new ssd ? Mac is reading it.. please help

What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

Great guides. Thanks!

Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

Followed the advice and right as I was installing the replacement fan , the socket broke right off the motherboard.

One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.

Très bonnes explications. Concernant le débranchement de la batterie, faute de “smudger”, on peut le faire tout doucement avec le bout des ongles (s’ils ne sont pas coupés trop à ras, LOL), et surtout ne pas tenter de le faire d’un coup: il faut y aller tiers de mm par tiers de mm. Le retrait des anciennes mémoires n’est pas facile non plus, car on a très peu de place pour manœuvrer, là encore il faut y aller petit à petit, avec les plus grandes précautions! La barrette située le plus profond doit être soulevée assez fortement dans sa partie libre pour pouvoir être extraite de son étroite cuvette et ce n’est pas simple. Le remontage est nettement plus simple que le démontage. Il faut surtout faire très attention à ne pas confondre les petites vis à épaulement avec celles qui n’en ont pas. Je conseille, avant de remettre le couvercle de fond du Mac, de faire un essai de redémarrage pendant une minute ou deux pour bien voir si tout est OK.

Can the socket be soldered back if broken? Or am I screwed? Can I use the laptop without the fan?

I have the same question, looks like instead of "unplugging" these micro connections, I accidentally pried it off the Board instead. Harumph. Can these be fixed?

I successfully soldered the fan connector back on for a friend. I used a small soldering iron (maybe 6-10 watts) and ground the tip down to a very fine point. Also used a magnifying light and very fine rosin core solder. I took my time and lined everything up and was careful not to heat any other junction unnecessarily.

Yup. Be careful on this one. I was trying to gently pry up and popped it off the socket. Computer working fine after replacing magsafe board, but no fan for cooling…

This one is really delicate, as pointed out.  Be careful if using the pointed end of a spudger NOT to dig down and under ….there’s a layer of plastic-y insulation that can be torn.  I accidentally gored it with the pointy end of a spudger and it was slightly ripped.  Fortunately, I was able to press it down and there was no problem when the cable was reinserted.

For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

I used a guitar pick and gently wiggled underneath to lift it up and out of the socket. no damage! woo hoo! on to step 7!

Rut roh… after trying this computer is running like stuck in mud. the sprocket thing broke and have 2 of the gold looking plugs, now what should I do? any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance. fan speed 0 rpm lynz4tex

I broke it off as well. Fortunately I am replacing the board so the new board will have an intact socket. I just popped the fan plug out of the broken socket and tossed the broken off socket. The fan plug is undamaged and ready to be plugged into the new board socket.

I simply skipped this step and left fan wire connected to logic board. Just unscrew screws from Step 6, put fan on the logic board and remove whole stuff togheter.

It would be helpful to have recommendations about how to clean the dust from inside. What places to direct the compressed air,

Forget the dust inside: replace the fan for about $15! Here’s what I ordered and it worked perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

Wah. My screws got rounded out and the old fan is stuck in now. Anybody have a solution to get them out without frying the logic board? It definitely seems as if locktite has been used here. Has anybody else found evidence to support that?

Reminder: When replacing the cable the connector should be placed in from above. This fooled me and I damaged the seat a bit, but not enough to prevent proper connection.

The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.

Anyone has a data of this cable becausei brkoe it and i have an other same connector ??

Mail : mr.leminecrafteur@gmail.com

Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.

Same, any suggestion about its replacement?

Really grip those little bumps on the head with a pair of pliers and gently wiggle!

In case you need replacement parts for the broken cable : http://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-Pr...

To find out how to replace the cable, you can have a look at this tutorial : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

Same with the Mid 2010 model - moving the cable parallel to the board, towards the optical device works fine.

David, thank you so much for the tape suggestion! A little Scotch tape just ended 15 minutes of eyes-widening frustration. :)

if the zif socket got fried which parts must be replaced?

i dont know what yall be talkin bout i just ripped the top part off and then i put some back tape voerit

works great!

After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.

“Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.” <=== perhaps the best suggestion I’ve read in years!

The tape trick works. Since we’re in the middle of a home renovation project I used a piece of painters tape that was lying around. It doesn’t really stick to the cable but it just gives you that extra grip.

I had a hard time to reattach the keyboard cables, the tape trick just saved my life.

Just a random thing to add. My Mac would not boot without the keyboard ribbon being plugged in correctly.

Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.

The tape trick was the only way it could go in for me.

PLEASE post the tape trick for reinsertion into the MAIN instructions for this repair. I managed to destroy the cable traces requiring me to replace the whole keyboard before I found the tape trick info. Please, please, please keep anyone else from &&^&^$^ up this way.

tape tip! genius! first go!

The most difficult part. It is hard to get it out and put it back. It seems there are a lot of suggests how to do it easier. I spent on this about a half an hour :( Pitty that I didn't see that suggestions before.

For me the most difficult part as well. Tape trick is great .

Hi! I seem to have damaged the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket and is there a way I can make my Mac work again through an external keyboard or something? What kind of keyboards will help and how does it work?

The tape tirck saved my bacon!! Thank YOU!

Hi, I’m not quite sure how to use the tape to get the connector back in. Any help / images would be extremely helpful

The bottom of the small strip has excellent adhesive which will re-stick upon reassembly without any problems. I handled the sticky side and even stuck it to a plastic tray without any issues. Which is to say the sticky-ness does not seem to wear off.

This is the most difficult ribbon cable to reinsert. As noted in the comments for the keyboard ribbon cable above I’d recommend also using a a small piece of tape to help reinsert.

I used Blu-Tac on the end of my spudger to provide a gentle grip to get it to slide in.

The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.

Hello Guys , I accidently Broke the Cable , is there a replacement for it?

the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.

Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

Probably a long shot but can this cable be replaced? I think i broke mine

Well i found the part at amazon. how to repair it is another thing. I have to ask for help from one on this one. because its booting to a whiet screen.

My display is also not working after reassembly. External monitor works, but the internal display doesn't.

I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

2 of the 7 (the two red ones on the right side in the image) seem really hard to remove. Is there something I'm missing, or do I just need to try harder?

lol @ eye widening frustration. i disabled the keyboard and track pad some how after trying discon my mic. i think its cuz i DID REMOVE BATTERY AND STICKER. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

There is only 2 4.3mm T6 on the left part of the logic board and 2 7.2mm T6 on the magsafe board. The 5 T6 left are 3.6mm

for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

on something like this (like in iphones) i print the picture and place the screws on the picture. saves some problems and guessing.

The last screw is the onde that's getting me. Been trying to take it out for half an hour...

Not necessary to remove the small screw holding the silver colored retaining clip on the data cable retainer. (pictured still attached in the guide) Cost me 45 minutes trying to get it back on which included looking for, and fishing it out of, the places where it tried to hide because it’s so ding dang small it was tough to reattach and seemed to have a guided navigation system sending it everywhere but where it was supposed to go. Additionally, the middle hole on the retainer is empty in this step for reassembly as that is where one of the long rear cover screws goes when you put the case back together.

Definitely not necessary to remove this bracket. You can disconnect the mic from the logic board and not have to deal with this bracket.

The mic adhesive was the only adhesive which seemed diminished by disassembly. I don’t know what apple uses for internal adhesive but I finished the project wishing I had some to secure this mic assembly a little better.

Careful with this one. The wires are very thin fragile and it’s glued down very well making it extremely hard to remove. Just go slow and be patient otherwise you’ll damage the wires.

I finally got that mic out by gripping it between two spudgers like a pair of chopsticks and gently pulling it out at an angle. The rubber shroud on it makes the thing hard to grip, and when I finally pulled it free, part of the adhesive ring tore off and stayed stuck to the chassis. When reassembling the machine, I had to kind of squish it back into place. It doesn’t hold quite as well as it did before, but it seems fine.

I managed to get the board out without prying the microphone off by twisting the board out while the microphone is still connected.

You can then disconnect the microphone cable, which is a similar style connector to the fan cable and remove the board completely

Vraiment pénible cette déconnection, allez y gentiment et la colle partira.

when reseating the logic board, first install the DC board in position and loosely seat the screws. then try to align the logic board to the 3.6mm screw housing closest to the firewire/ thunderbolt port and align the board to the ports and gently drop it into position. watch out for the cables that can get snagged under the board while seating it.

It is better to leave the mic glued down and just disconnect it from the logic board.

I am stuck here. When I lift the logic board, it doesn't come out. I don't want to force it out by fear of breaking it. Please help

I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

Same experience here. I used a longish spudger slipped under the logic board to carefully separate the black backlight shield from the underside of the logic board. I suspect the processor and/or the GPU sticks the two together. Be careful and patient separating the backlight shiled...it is delicate..go slow and use minimal force...

It is heat not glue that caused the sticking...

I got the microphone cable out fine, but what I'm really struggling with is the camera cable - it doesn't seem to wanna come out and I don't want to force it because I know it's fragile. Anyone find a trick for this?

There is one flexible metal plate near each connector probably a grounding plate which can get bend while pulling out the logic board. I had one of them bend but fortunately it didn't break off.

I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

The magnetic MagSafe connector pins have a grey plastic frame which can be seen as you look at it from the outside, looking inwards at the port. This plastic frame eventually starts to crack and break-up over the years. It’s not a necessary part so if your MagSafe connector has broken grey plastic on the external end of the connector, remove the pieces as they’re there only for cosmetic reasons.

The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard

In my case I need to repair one of the USB ports so I just ended at this step.

My experience with the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes me suggest paying close attention to how the DC-in board's cabling is situated as you remove the motherboard from the computer, especially in relation to the microphone and the display data cable retainer. The replacement DC-in board I used had fabric wrapping around the individual cables to the motherboard. Consequently, there is more material to navigate between these parts on reassembly.

I managed to make it work, but if I had paid more attention to exactly how the cable was routed before removing the original, reassembly might have been easier.

DC-in board remplacement ok, BUT, now S and Q keys don’t work anymore… Don i have to change the upper case or something else to do before ??

It took me a while  to work up the courage to take this project on….after I’d received  the part from eBay.  I was  concerned about finding a way to get my daughter’s photos and documents retrieved before taking it on.  My dilemma was that there didn’t seem to be a way to charge the battery, which  only had about 5% left.  I used a 276gb flash drive to transfer  the essential  stuff using the remaining battery life.  Then I took the project on.  For a while, I still couldn’t get the bright green or amber light to come on, but just left the laptop plugged in with the dimmest green light showing on the magsafe charger.  After a few days, the battery charged up (almost like a slow trickle charge).  I fiddled with resetting  few things, per several suggestions, to no avail.  Today, however, out of a clear blue sky, I plugged the charger into the magsafe port and it turned green, then amber for the first time, and started charging pretty fast.  It seems a bit finicky about how it rests in the socket. Go for it!

Hi Carolyn, I am in the same boat as you. I have the parts, just waiting for the courage ! I have already replaced the battery and the trackpad without any issues. Just concerned about breaking anything in the disassembly process. Maybe Apple make these parts so delicate on purpose so that its not user friendly to easily replace without risk (otherwise everyone would be doing it themselves right - no fun or $ for Apple !).. Wish you were here to guide me through the process (knowing that you have already been there, done that ! so to speak !). Cheers Ron

I replaced the battery. The computer turned on. When the battery was dying I tried to charge. It wouldn’t charge. Replaced the MagSafe. Still won’t charge

I completet this “surgery” on my A1278 Pro, since the old magsafe board did not connect at all anymore. Now my mac can run of the magsafe power supply, however it does not charge the battery.

Does anyone know what could cause this, or have experienced similar? I did search the answers forum, but the “solved” ones were faulty power supplys or similar. Both the magsafe charger and the battery is recognized by the Mac OS, but it simply says “Battery not charging” when plugging in the magsafe. My battery is working fine and the mac did also run of it after the new DC-in board replacement, however it just ran out of juice just now, since it does not charge. The magsafe LED does not light up either.

Do I simply have to retrace my steps and check if the connector is i porly placed or did i &&^& something up in my operation?

Screenshots: https://imgur.com/a/BGZsAve

It’s in danish i know, but basicly it was to show the fact that both the battery and charger was shown in the OS, number of cycles (1300) ‘n such. Thanks!