Introduction

Plus d'alimentation sur votre Mac ? Remplacez la carte de raccordement MagSafe.

  1. Retirez les huit vis Phillips 4 mm par lesquelles le boîtier inférieur est fixé au MacBook.
    • Retirez les huit vis Phillips 4 mm par lesquelles le boîtier inférieur est fixé au MacBook.

    According to this page http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1651?viewl..., the 8 screws are not identical.

    Can anybody tell me where each kind of screw is supposed to go?

    Gregoire - Réponse

    They are all 100% Identical. You were probably looking at a different model, or Apple has entered the wrong information... Hey, It happens...

    weeowey weeowey -

    The screws on the Late 2009 are identical. The blue lock compound might make tightening some require a little more effort.

    svenaustx - Réponse

    Can I replace it with a SATA 3 cable?

    nm - Réponse

    A1342 macbook does not have the right controller to support sata III

    weeowey weeowey -

    hi, i just got back from the apple store and they are really keen for me to upgrade to a new laptop since my battery is old and the screen is cracked, so glad i found ifixit i would love to upgrade this puppy! gonna make it a real sleeper! styler hall wrote about sticking 16 gb of ram in his a 1342 ? is this a simply mather of ordering 3 4gb sticks ?aslo i currently have 4 gb and would like to upgrade to 8 ( or indeed 16) does that mean i need to buy all new sticks or can i continue to use the old one and stick a new one next to it ?

    thanks again mick van aar, perth western aus.

    michelvanaar - Réponse

    The A1342 will take up to 16 GB of RAM, however, there are only two RAM slots, so use two 8-GB RAM modules. Other World Computing (OWC) is a great reference source for info on exactly which RAM to use with which model; prices are usually much better on EBay though. Add an SSD from OWC and your machine will really scream!

    I hope that helps!

    gdesbrisay -

    Gregoire is right. The 8 screws are absolutely NOT identical, I’m looking at them right now, weeowey weeowey.

    John Guzman - Réponse

  2. Le boîtier inférieur est construit en aluminium avec un revêtement en caoutchouc. Ne pliez pas trop l'aluminium lors du retrait, car une déformation permanente générerait des problèmes de tolérance après le remontage.
    • Le boîtier inférieur est construit en aluminium avec un revêtement en caoutchouc. Ne pliez pas trop l'aluminium lors du retrait, car une déformation permanente générerait des problèmes de tolérance après le remontage.

    • Soulevez légèrement le boîtier arrière au niveau de la fente.

    • Continuez à faire courir vos doigts entre les boîtiers inférieur et supérieur jusqu'à ce que le boîtier supérieur se dégage des clips de fixation.

    • La position de ces trois clips est indiquée dans la troisième photographie.

    Do the retaining clips have to be re-engaged when replacing the lower case?

    John Morley - Réponse

    Answering my own question, the clips re-engage when the lower case is correctly positioned. You can help them by gently pressing the lower case with your thumbs midway along the two short sides. When everything is correctly aligned the eight screw holes line up.

    John Morley -

    Rather than running your fingernail down the sides to free up the retaining clips, I found that using an old credit card, inserted about 1/4”, to run along the left and right side popped those end retaining clips right off with no problem. You may need to twist the card slightly when in the middle area to help pop those off.

    bdahl385 - Réponse

    • Pour des raisons de précaution, nous conseillons de déconnecter le connecteur de la batterie de la carte mère pour éviter une décharge électrique. Cette étape est facultative et non obligatoire.

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Il est peut-être plus facile de soulever les deux côtés du connecteur avec vos ongles.

    you do not need to remove the battery when replacing the hard drive or ram

    brilldoctor - Réponse

    beware not to lift the connector to close of the angle, as the picture suggest it. It might broke the angle. Attack by the middle.

    naamol - Réponse

    Not necessary?

    hikkymemo - Réponse

    Be careful of the corner of the battery cable connector when trying to pry it off with the spudge. I knocked the corner of mine. No operational impact but was not very pleasing!

    jljordanweb - Réponse

    Not necessary, but a good idea, so as to avoid any spurious charges going through the boards...

    svenaustx - Réponse

    @Svenaustx - What could happen if not removing this battery? Worst case? Not a geek on this but did change RAM on my Macbook Pro "15. Can't remember disconneting the battery back then. Shouldn't it be sufficient shutting the Mac off and ensure it has been used for an hour or so before replacing RAM?

    Allan Clarke -

    i used a metal pry and noticed some sparking when i disconnected the battery. replaced ram. now it wont turn on. did i fry it?

    Ian Lynch - Réponse

    • Retirez les vis suivantes de la grille d'aération arrière, du côté du lecteur optique :

      • Deux vis Torx T8 10 mm

      • Deux vis Phillips 5 mm

    Hi, i have an issue with the screw in the middle: it is blocked and the top is now damaged... Any suggestion?

    Corrado - Réponse

    I have a problem with the two middle screws

    Harlan Shannon - Réponse

    • Retirez les vis suivantes de la grille d'aération arrière, du côté du port :

      • Deux vis Torx T8 10 mm

      • Deux vis Phillips 5 mm

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    • Sortez avec précaution la grille d'aération arrière du boîtier supérieur.

    you can actually stop disassembling now and try to replace it now. after removing two t6 screws it came off pretty easily

    grze - Réponse

    Good tip, thanks! I skipped ahead to step 17 and had no problem getting the magsafe board out from under the logic board and the new one installed. Saves a lot of work disconnecting connectors indicated as Fragile!

    matt15 -

    Thank You! Saved me an hour or so of work and a lot of stress!

    15sweyandt -

    I also did Step 6, then skipped to Step 17 & 18. Once I had the display data cable off, I could remove the 2 T6 Torx screws holding the MagSafe board on and remove it. You can reach under the logic board with the point of the spudger to work the cable out of the socket. Note how you maneuver the board out of the tight space so you can maneuver it back in. When you put the new MagSafe board in, plug in the cable first. If you bend the wires so the plug approaches the socket at the appropriate angle, you can nudge it in with the pointed end of the spudger.

    hpendleton -

    Thanks a lot for this hint! You saved my macbook, when I failed to unscrew the fan because of one completely destroyed screw. Thanks to your comment I skipped steps 7-16 and went straight to replacing the magsafe board without problems. The spudger and some 3D imagination and done,

    Sebastian M -

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier pour retirer la nappe AirPort/Bluetooth de la carte mère.

    The steps from 7 up to 16, and then 19 and 20 are not necessary. It looks like Apple intentionally designed the shape in the corner around the magsafe connector, so that it can be replaced without disconnecting and unmounting the main board. Also, the placement of the two screws mounting the magsafe board confirms that - they are easily available. This is true at least for the 2009 model, which I've successfully repaired.

    So you can skip the risky steps of disconnecting of all the main board connectors and go straight to unscrewing the magsafe connector. Then, having the spudger and some 3D imagination, you can remove the magsafe board with some 3D rotations. Same for mounting the new magsafe.

    I've found out that crucial simplification only because I failed to unscrew the fan (broken a screw completely, while following this guide step by step). Then I found a comment from user grze under step 6, which saved my macbook by confirming, that 7 to 16 can be skipped.

    Sebastian M - Réponse

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    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur du ventilateur vers le haut pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Il est utile de faire pivoter la spatule en dessous des câbles du ventilateur pour débrancher le connecteur.

    • La prise et le connecteur du ventilateur sont montrés sur la deuxième et troisième photo. Veillez à ne pas casser la prise en plastique du ventilateur quand vous retirez le connecteur du ventilateur de sa prise. La configuration de la carte mère de votre appareil peut différer de celle de la deuxième photo mais la prise du ventilateur est la même.

    Since this kind of connector and very fragile and easy to damage even with a spudger I use a needle that I insert in the front side of the connector, between the connector and the socket and only apply a little pressure while lifting up the needle. The connector will then pop up from one side. Repeat the procedure for the other side. With this method it's impossible to damage the connector. I adopted this method after ruining two or three connectors using the spudger.

    lemerise - Réponse

    Hi, how do you fix the axial which connects the fan with logic board..it's broken! Thanks in advance..

    Gagandeep -

    HELP! Both the connector AND socket detached from the logic board! Is it possible (barring micro-surgery) to reattach the socket to the logic board?

    John Watson - Réponse

    same problem here...any ideas? Did you fix it again, John?

    Ben Kn -

    I disconnected the connector and socket from the logic board because I wasn't being careful and wasn't using a spudger tool as was recommended. Luckily, a friend of mine that's handy with a soldering gun was able to individually solder each wire from the cooling fan's wire assembly back onto the soldering points on the logic board. It's really intricate, tricky, and risky...but at that point, what choice do you have? I verify it's possible to fix and my cooling fan is now running perfectly fine.

    Dan Barnhart - Réponse

    • Dévissez les trois vis suivantes, fixant le ventilateur au boîtier supérieur :

      • Une vis cruciforme de 7,1 mm.

      • Deux vis cruciformes de 5 mm.

    • Ôtez le ventilateur du boîtier supérieur.

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    • Soulevez soigneusement le connecteur fragile du haut-parleur arrière de la carte mère. Les petits connecteurs des haut-parleurs droite/gauche se cassent très facilement.

    • Faites extrêmement attention ; ce connecteur se casse facilement.

    While these connectors are very delicate, a new upper body case will have new connectors already installed. I slightly broke two connectors while removing them.

    Also, the connectors have a notch underneath (on the logic board) for the corner of the spudger to fit into. The hard part is that you cannot see the notches until the connectors are removed.

    Nations81 - Réponse

    Hi. Long time ago, I know but.... How did you fix them?

    I snapped mine off, can it be soldered back on?

    Sai G -

    I used pointed tip of one side of the tweezers from the ifixit Home Tech Toolkit. I found this thinner pointed tip better than a spudger for hitting that notch in the socket underneath the connectors. Since this is a metal tool, I pried very gently and I was working on a MacBook with the battery taken out entirely (early on as suggested in the video) and was also using an Anti-Static wrist strap. I found the spudger broke one of the connectors because it's relatively thick plastic, and put too much pressure under the cables before the tip could reach the plastic block of the connector. The pressure under the cable popped the wire contact right through the top of the plastic block connector. (it was OK this connector broke since I didn't need to reuse it--my replacement keyboard/upper case came with its own cables.)

    Because the tips of the tweezers are angled, I felt I had better control of the torque I was applying than if I used a jeweler's flathead screwdriver.

    kenhtanaka - Réponse

    i used a very sharp dental pick - a tool i've permanently "added" to my ifixit tool kit bag

    pprod - Réponse

    Using a needle/pin works well. I did what another person mentioned in Step 8. Pry up from the back corner with the tip of the needle. Be gentle. One side will pop up a tiny bit. Move to the other side and gently pry there. Mine popped out completely at that point.

    stanos1 - Réponse

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), retirez le connecteur du lecteur optique de la carte mère.

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    • Avec une spatule, faites levier pour retirer le connecteur du haut-parleur droit et le connecteur du LED veille de la carte mère.

    • Ces connecteurs sont très fragiles et se cassent facilement.

    I broke a speaker connector on this step. I found it easier to use a tiny flathead screwdriver to gently pry these connectors up.

    brad - Réponse

    Did u manage to fix the broken speaker connexion Brad? Mine snapped off. How can I fix that?

    Sai G - Réponse

    what is the connector in the image that is two prong and has the orange and red box around it in the 3rd image? Need to replace that connector. Please help. Part number would be great

    ajfrasca - Réponse

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur de la nappe du pavé tactile pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

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    • Avec votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier.

    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, faites glisser la nappe du clavier hors de sa prise.

    I had to remove the battery again to insert the keyboard ribbon cable. I just couldn't get the right angle and force otherwise.

    asciimo - Réponse

    When reassembling make sure this cable is really deep in it's socket. (Use some force with the spudger wedging it in between the cable and battery). If you don't, you won't be able to power up the board. I had 2 logicboards that I thought were dead, but it turned out the cable was not inserted enough. Jump starting them with the jump pads did nothing (with or without cable connected), but connecting the cable properly made the board come alive. Really check this!!

    Peterdk - Réponse

    You sir, just saved my day! Switching boards between two mac and I thought I broke the two at once... This should be documented on the manual!!

    jorgecarleitao -

    Thanks for your help!!! I thought I did the replacement wrong. Greetings from Peru.

    Lalo Gonzalez -

    This was hugely helpful! The cable requires much more force than expected.

    Daniel DeGrasse -

    There really should be a comment in the steps regarding tips on how to put the ribbon back in. The tape did the trick and I am back up and running.

    alexhgreene - Réponse

    The two silver squares above the left corner of the Keyboard and to the right of the Trackpad cable ribbon are the jump pads to power on the MacBook if your power button may not be working.

    Jason Ognosky - Réponse

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, soulevez le connecteur de la nappe du disque dur pour le débrancher de la carte mère.

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    • Avec une spatule, soulevez le connecteur du haut-parleur gauche et le connecteur du microphone pour les débrancher de la carte mère.

    • Ces connecteurs sont très fragiles et se cassent facilement.

    Note: the 2009 and 2010 model differ here. On one the 3 point connector is left and 2 point is right, on the other one the 3 point connector is right and 2 point is left.

    I found this while installing several logicboards for A1342.

    Peterdk - Réponse

    @Peterdk, are the connectors exchangeable?

    I mean, would putting the 3 pin on the 3 pin, and the 2 pin on the 2 pin, regardless of the position (left or right) be ok?

    Have you successfully used a 2010 logic board on a 2009 case?

    Alberto Einstein -

    I can't seem to connect those any suggestions

    Ayat - Réponse

    how do you reconnect these?

    yourstruly69101 - Réponse

    • Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.

    Just lift the tab up slightly to release the clip that secures the data display cable. Then the cable will slide out easily.

    matt15 - Réponse

    If the video data cable has been disconnected before, the adhesive on the might not hold. Be extra cautious in disconnecting this. An illuminated magnifier would be a good help on this step as it is very delicate. This was where I feared I would fail. Was very relieved in getting through this step...

    svenaustx - Réponse

    I wasn't careful enough here, and didn't realize that the silver metal piece around the connector is actually a locking clip. No wonder disconnecting the cable required more than a gentle pull. The clip popped out of the cable-side connector in the process, and was bent; fortunately I was able to very carefully bend the clip out just enough to get it re-seated in the connector; there are tiny slots on the sides of the connector that the clip fits into.

    kmcrawford111 - Réponse

    • Tirez délicatement le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Tirez parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère.

    • La prise du câble de données de l'écran est en métal très fin et se tort facilement. Assurez-vous de tirer le connecteur tout droit hors de sa prise.

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    • Dévissez les six vis Torx T6 de 4,1 à 4,4 mm fixant la carte mère au boîtier supérieur.

    • Dévissez les deux vis Torx T6 de 4,1 à 4,4 mm fixant la carte de raccordement MagSafe au boîtier supérieur.

    • Sur quelques modèles, vous pouvez trouver des vis T7. Veillez alors à ne pas abîmer la tête de vis avec un embout trop petit.

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    • Soulevez le côté de la carte mère opposé aux ports hors du boîtier supérieur.

    • Faites pivoter la carte mère hors du boîtier supérieur jusqu'à ce que les ports s'écartent du bord moulé dans le boîtier supérieur.

    • Éloignez la carte mère et la carte de raccordement MagSafe du bord du boîtier supérieur, comme si elles étaient d'une pièce.

    • La carte de raccordement MagSafe peut se déconnecter accidentellement au cours de cette étape. Par précaution, assurez-vous que le connecteur de la carte carte de raccordement MagSafe est bien fixé dans sa prise avant de rabattre la carte mère dans le boîtier supérieur.

    • Avant de rabattre la carte mère dans le boîtier supérieur, assurez-vous que les nappes du haut-parleur gauche et du microphone sont correctement acheminés (comme sur la troisième photo).

    (When re-installing) Before screwing down the logic board, go around the edge and make sure no cables are caught underneath, remember there are 11 of them, 12 if the battery is present at this point.

    kenhtanaka - Réponse

    I reassembled the macbook A1342 using this guide and everything is perfect, except that if I shut down the computer and power it up after 1hour or so, I have to press the power button a few times before it starts. What could I have gone wrong? I checked the magsafe connector and it seems to be firmly seated. :(

    Alok - Réponse

    • Retirez le connecteur de la carte de raccordement MagSafe de sa prise sur la carte mère

    • Tirez sur le connecteur parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère.

    Can I soak the MagSafe board in an isopropyl bath?

    Jay S - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions dans le sens inverse.

161 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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14 commentaires

Excellent guide, very easy to follow, success!!!!

khoover - Réponse

I did it Success! Thank you very much!!!!

I had some problems after I reassemble all the parts, first the Macbook wasn't turn on, but I wait few seconds and it's turn on again. Second the key A on the keyboard not worked but I take off the ribbon cable of keyboard and put it on again and the keyboard worked normally.

This is my comment I hope that help someone.

rodrigoj6 - Réponse

Another excellent guide. Can be tedious. Good, bright lighting a must, and patience.

svenaustx - Réponse

The computer fell on the MagSafe cable, wich pressed in the MagSafe board (socket) into the body so the cable and the socket couldn't reach contact. From this guide I only did steps 1 to 6 and 17 to 19(only the two screws for the MagSafe board). Then I could move the MagCharger board out enough so it could make contact with the charger cable. Then I tightened the two screws again. Allthou I was as carefull I could with the display data cable (step 17 -18) and looked on youtube allso, it did break a bit at the surrounding solder joint. But it's working. I didn't have to replace the MagCharger board, just move it back into position.

Andreas - Réponse

Hi I have a problem with the fan connector. I accidentally break the plastic fan socket off the logic board.. I am worried as the way am looking at it its difficult to solder it back as it too tiny.. What should I do?

Nielven Araullo - Réponse

Hi I have the same problem..any suggestion please!

Gagandeep -

Same problem! Please help!

Eric -

Well, I wish I would’ve read ALL the comments first. Come to find out I could have avoided breaking the fan contact if I would have just completed to #6 then went to 17 and 18.

Eric -

EXCELENTE!!!

Este guia salvou meu velho macbook. Antes do conserto o conector magsafe "fervia" de queimar os dedos na ponta do carregador. acho que um revestimento desgastado que isolava o magsafe board do conector, fazia ele superaquecer. como ganhei uma sucata de macbook, consegui trocar a peça.

Obrigado IFIXIT!

Agora, tomando coragem para mais um desafio: Trocar todo o corpo externo do meu macbook, pois o atual caiu algumas vezes no chão e está rachado em alguns lugares. pretendo usar a sucata que tenho, pois está melhor que o meu.

Miguel - Réponse

Amazing guide.dissasemble until step 6 then skip to 17.saves me a lot of time(approximately 30 min!!!)

use torx 6-8-philips and a pencil.thank you.

Giorgos Saras - Réponse

Where you guys bought the part?

Erick Servin - Réponse

I have replaced the MagSafe charger successfully, but now when I turn on my MacBook, the monitor is just a white screen. Anyone know what I could have possibly done wrong when reconnecting all the wires? Thanks!

Eric Sic - Réponse

Thank you for this very helpful guide! I suggest to skip steps 7 up to 16, which is much quicker and safer way, at least for the 2009 model. With that one remark, overall great guide.

Sebastian M - Réponse

Hi , MacBook worked fine but the mag sage silver pins burnt so I had to replace the MagSafe so i did and put it all back to together I plugged the MagSafe in and it turns green then turned orange so I tried turning it on and it just when back to green and to power light didn’t turn on then after a bit of time it turn on and managed to log in thought it was fine but the it just suddenly when off and back to how it was not working can you help ?

Well Made Vlogger - Réponse

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