Introduction
Si votre tablette ne charge pas et que vous avez vérifié que votre chargeur fonctionne, vous devrez peut-être remplacer votre port de chargement.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Avoir l'avant de l'appareil face à vous.
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Commencez près de l'un des bords incurvés de l'appareil
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Placez l'outil d'ouverture en plastique entre les panneaux avant et arrière.
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Rabattez le rabat de retenue sur le connecteur ZIF.
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Faites glisser le câble ruban orange.
BEWARE!!! later on Samsung tablets the tab holding the main cable (marked “MAIN”) breaks as soon as you attempt to lift the tab to remove the ribbon! I reckon Samsung designed this breakabloe tab to not only avoid the warranty, but the render the tablet useless!
Happened to me also, in order to replace that broken tab, do you think it will be necessary to replace the motherboard? I highly doubt we can find the parts to fix (replace) the flip-tab.
LOOK what I found!!! its the replacement for the connector we broke!!!https://www.parts4repair.com/samsung-gal...
i just wonder how u gonna solder this tiny thingie
I wish I had read this thread before I removed the cable and broke the connector. Unfortunately I have not been able to reattach the cable and my tablet is dead.
If there is no way to remove this cable, why is this fix even posted here? I find this exceptionally uncool!
Whoever broke the connector was trying to open it the wrong way. I have oil spilled in mine after I replaced my screen and digitizer together if you only replace the screen it is more difficult. I say changing both together is simpler. And I will share a pic either way I just might mess up MY connector. To be continued
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Relevez les deux connecteurs ZIF sur la carte mère à l'aide de l'outil d'ouverture en plastique.
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Faites glisser les câbles ruban orange hors des connecteurs ZIF.
This step omits the disconnection of the battery from the motherboard , which is shown disconnected in this picture but was connected in the previous step
Thanks for bringing this to our attention. We added the relevant battery disconnection steps—hope this helps!
If the model you are working on is the T585 you will need to carefully pry up the blue antennae cable and disconnect the sim card slot from the motherboard.
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Utilisez un Phillips # 000 pour enlever six des vis de 4mm.
die ganze Platine musste ich gar nicht ausbauen. Ich konnte die Kopfhörerbuchse vorsichtig mit einem kleinen flachen Schrubendreher lösen.
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Mettez l'outil d'ouverture en plastique en dessous et soulevez la carte mère hors de la tablette.
I have tab a charging and show on screen but not starting at all motherboard water damage I clean all there any way make it start by motherboard with out power button
TIP: Before next step (or sooner), cover cracked/broken glass with transparent tape to avoid (I didn't) or minimize small shards of glass falling into work area and onto your clothing.
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Placer la tresse à dessouder sur l'un des quatre trous situés en haut à l'arrière de la carte mère.
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Placer le fer à souder sur la tresse à dessouder sur la partie grise du trou pour soulever la soudure. Si confus voici une référence.
Please be sure not to hold the soldering iron by the hot end as shown in the picture
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Pour réassembler votre appareil, placez un nouveau morceau de métal là où était l'ancien et soudez-le à la carte mère dans les quatre trous du côté opposé de la carte mère.
Pour réassembler votre appareil, placez un nouveau morceau de métal là où était l'ancien et soudez-le à la carte mère dans les quatre trous du côté opposé de la carte mère.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
15 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
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13 commentaires
It is impossible to unmount the old damaged USB-Interface this way. Beside the four solder-points ist is also soldered to 5 extremely small points on the motherboards opposite side. These are SMD-mounted contacts and in my case trying to unsolder them damaged the motherbords layout.
I was able to desolder it with a hot air rework station + soldering iron without damaging the pcb then using a wick cut at an angle + the heat gun to clean the mounting holes you must clean then fully so the new part will mount flush.
Also take care with resoldering the new connector not to bridge the pins on the usb port.
what is the model of USB connector here? I would like to buy in advance before opening
These instructions are really incomplete. In addition to the 4 through-hole points mentioned, there are also 2 large ground pads under the connector, and 7 tiny surface-mount pins on the back. Removing this port pretty much requires low-temp (chip-quick) solder or a hot-air rework station. Soldering it back on with only an iron proved quite difficult - hot-air rework station highly recommended. This took me about an hour, and I’ve been soldering (hobby mostly) for the better part of 30 years.
Also, there’s no reason to remove the battery to change the charging port. The motherboard can be removed without removing the battery. And really, the cameras should be disconnected too, rather than leaving them dangling by their ribbon cables.
Please tell us what region you’re in and someone might be able to help with a relevant suggestion.
Sucessfully completed. More Flex cables to disconnect, but thats straightforward. Replacement part from ebay. Unsolder and soldering are complicated even with professionell hot air station, microscope etc. But now it works
Just a quick question. Does the USB port have to be fully removed? If the unit is not charging isn’t it more likely that one of the solder connections is simply broken?
Cheers,
A
What type of solder should be used to re-affix the new charging port?
Lead-free solder paste. Small amounts are sold in syringes, eBay is a good source
The circuit board will need some heat prior to using a hot-air solder station. You will need to remove both cameras before subjecting to a pre-heat. Pre-heat to between 150 and 200c then apply enough heat to reflow the solder joints. A pair of tweezers will help remove the old USB socket. Once removed desolder the throu-holes and clean the surface mount pads. Apply small amounts of solder paste on the solder pads and fill the trou-holes, before placing the new USB socket . The PCB will need pre-heating again before finally using the hot-air solder gun to flow the solder joints. Check SMD pads and throu-holes have all flowed properly.
Chris Halliwell knows what they are doing. If you don't have a hot air station, decent soldering station and surface mount soldering experience plus the sundries ie solder paste, good tweezers, good lighting, magnify glass as a minimum then don't even try.
Surface Mount soldering around temperature sensitive components is a risky game unless you are aware of the processes involved. Even then it only takes a few extra degrees in temperature to melt and fry surrounding part's.
This i see is not for the faint of heart.
AWESOME!! I was trying to open it from the “NOT OK” place and you saved me to broken the screen… thanks!!
David Leiva - Réponse
No problem, enjoy.
Roger L. Ortiz -
Felt it was easier for me to do it from the middles out.
Tanin Garcia - Réponse
@rogerlortiz You two seem to be miscommunicating. The author points out the location between the digitizer and frame in which to place a tool. While @Tanin Garcia, whom no longer seems to be member, was pointing out where along the edge from corner to corner it was best to start the separating process.
B. A. Computer Services -
Important: the display is sourrounded with a plastic frame. You need to get beween this frame an the backcover (not directly at glass edge as I tried it first and almost broke the glass). Get a closeup picture of it to clarify.
Oliver Dawid - Réponse
wer lesen kann, ist klar im Vorteil - ich hab die SD-Karte drin gelassen. Hat aber funktioniert…
Thomas Wolter - Réponse
Don’t use a very small flathead screwdriver as a spudger. Just shattered the screen :(
nikvoss - Réponse
Yes, shattered the screen. To the garbage, it goes. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing. This a repair better suited for a professional repair! Thanks for helping me make the decision to get another one!
vancega - Réponse