Introduction
Older Xbox 360 models had major issues with the heat sink. Replace your heat sink in the (hopefully unlikely) event of RROD deja vu.
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In the following steps, you will remove the top vent, secured to the top panel by the thirteen clips shown.
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Orient the console so that the words "XBOX 360" on the sides are right-side up, and the faceplate is facing to the left.
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Insert a metal spudger between the top vent and the top bezel near the rear of the Xbox.
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Rotate the spudger away from the console, prying the edge of the fan vent up until the two plastic clips come free.
This step is and the others following are to rough and not needed, simply put smth in between the lamellar and push it up with littlebit pressure thats better for the plastic parts.
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Insert a metal spudger between the fan vent and top bezel along the left side of the console.
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In the same manner described above, begin prying the left side of the top vent away from the top bezel.
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Continue prying along the left side of the device, freeing all the clips on that side.
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Insert a metal spudger through the front-most slit on the left edge of the top bezel and between the bottom edge of the clip and the left case, as described above.
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Simultaneously rotate the spudger away from the console and pull up on the top bezel to free the clip.
So I got the fan filter thing off, but the black edge plate thing isn't coming off. All I did was warp my flathead screwdriver and scratch the console.
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Rotate the console so that the rear of the Xbox 360 S is facing to the right, and the right case is facing you.
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Insert a metal spudger through the rear-most slit on the right edge of the top bezel and between the bottom edge of the clip and the right case.
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While lifting up on the top bezel with your fingers, rotate the spudger away from the console to free the clip.
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Push the latch holding down the hard drive cover to the left.
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Pull the hard drive cover away from the console.
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Firmly grasp the fabric tab labeled with the size of the hard drive (e.g. "250 GB") attached to the hard drive.
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Pull the hard drive straight out of the console.
If i buy a new xbox 360 and replace the hardrive inside with my own, will i have my account and saves? or will i have to recover my account and start over?
You will still have your saves and account if you replace your hard drive in the new xbox
hola tengo un disco de laptop y quiero ponerle 100 juegos como puedo hacer la xbox me reconose el disco y todo lo configuro pero cuando conecto a mi pc para pasar los juejosel emulador no me deja
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Insert a metal spudger through the slit near the rear left corner of the bottom bezel.
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Rotate the spudger away from the device while lifting the rear bezel up with the other hand.
These are pretty awkward to remove, but once you understand how they work its easy enough. The goal here is to slot the spudger THROUGH the gap of the silver tabs (visible in previous steps image, circled) and then pry. Put pressure against the wall of the Xbox case and push downwards, once you feel the spudger slot in, then apply force away from the Xbox and pull up a little with your free hand.
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Insert a metal spudger through the left middle slit of the bottom bezel, and between the bottom edge of the clip and the left case.
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Simultaneously pull the bottom bezel up and rotate the spudger away from the console to free the clip.
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In a similar fashion, free the clip at the front of the bottom bezel's left edge.
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Locate the two clips connecting the right and left case along the top edge of the console, behind the Wi-Fi card.
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While pushing the left and right case away from each other with one hand, pry the clips away from the case with a metal spudger.
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Insert the flat edge of a metal spudger between the left and right cases where the warranty sticker used to be.
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Pry the left case upwards to form a gap between the two cases, and slide the spudger in toward the left case.
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Rotate the spudger upward to release the last clip.
if you make a hole right here like the link`s picture you can boot the lock
As the user above me said, please avoid doing it like shown in the guide. It just didn’t work on my Xbox (unless your goal is to destroy the plastic case). Instead, pick some small needle like object (the spudger was too short for this, I used the SIM bit of my iFixit driver kit) and find the right spot on the big sticker which is on the left in the pictures shown in the guide. That spot is just between the text and the column of logos (Dolby Digital, etc.) (https://team-xecuter.com/slim/slim_secre..., picture not mine). Poke it (don’t be too gentle, you have to apply some force) and you will hear the clip release.
Both the above links are dead, i used this YouTube video which shows you the process of getting the hidden clip
I was able to open it by pushing on the sticker to unclamp the clip while another person helped me pull open the case.
Here is a Video that shows the small hole behind the sticker, ist in german but ist good to see how to open that hidden clip easiely.
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Release the clip near the front right corner of the top edge securing the right case to the faceplate.
There are 4 black screw that has to be removed before you can detach the other cover. Please note
Sorry, there 5screws, one in the middle and 4 at the edges
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Lift the left edge of the faceplate upward to release the last two clips securing the faceplate to the right case.
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Detach the faceplate from the rest of the device.
There isn’t 2 clips there is 4 clips
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Using a spudger or fingernail, lift the clear blue tab away from the connector.
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Slide the locking tab on the power switch board cable connector toward the top of the console.
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Pull the power switch cable straight out of the connector.
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The faceplate is now free of the rest of the console.
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Remove the two 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the RF module to the metal case.
On my disassembly during this part, I found the T9 Torx to be too big and had to use the T8 Torx instead.
The correct size is T8!
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Pull the board directly away from the Xbox to remove it.
It may not be required but recommended. As you move the xbox around you could break this part. Removing it and placing it in a safe place keeps that from happening.
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Remove the single T10 Torx screw holding in the wireless card.
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Pull the Wi-Fi Board out of the console.
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Remove the large white warranty sticker from the metal frame to expose a screw.
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Disconnect the optical drive data cable from the back of the optical drive.
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Disconnect the power cable from the back of the optical drive.
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Lift the optical drive out of the Xbox.
Is there a specific Optical Drive that Microsoft uses in these or can I upgrade my drive?
i took my drive out but when installed my replacement it would not work
WAS thinking of possibly trying to repair my son's Xbox 360S, by replacing the optical drive, but after looking at all the spudger steps to get to the drive and then your comment that the replacement might not actually work... forget about it! I ain't going to all that work for possibly nothing... t'ain't worth it!
Anyone want a perfectly working Xbox 360S with a drive the spins game discs upon ejection? We've already bought a replacement, so this unit is for sale... name your price.
Luposian -
In regards to davidgardner301 comment there is a extra step they. Didn't show on this replacement guide in order for your new disk drive to work you will need to remove the origional board connected to thje origional drive that came with the system and soler that onto the new one its a tricky process however its a step most people over look
Without the origional board the xbox will not accept the replacement drive only because each disk drive is coded to work with tat soecific xbox only so your out of luck if you already. Tossed out your old disk drive
The DVD drives are coded to the Motherboard. If you buy the same exact drive to replace the broken one. You will still need to either 1) transfer the DVD circuit board OR 2) get the Firmware from the old DVD drive using a PC and then transfer it to the New DVD. There are website regarding this procedure if you want to look it up.
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Remove the single 11.3 mm gold T10 Torx screw from the hole marked "G."
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Lift the hard drive bracket out of the metal frame.
I have a 4GB Xbox 360 slim and I bought a 500GB hard drive for it. I pushed the hard drive in its place and after I heard that click, I pushed it a little bit more to be shure that it's in place. I noticed that the hard drive bracket (the slide that holds the hard drive) it's elastic: after the hard drive is inserted, it wobbles (maybe to prevent hdd damage when the xbox is moved).
My question is: how does the hard drive bracket work? is there a metal spring in its mechanism that allows it to wobble? Did I make any damage to it because I pushed the hard drive to be sure that it is in place? I don't want to teardwon my console to find that out.
Thank you!
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Disconnect the fan cable by pulling its connector off the logic board.
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There are a total of 10 screws holding the logic board assembly to the metal case:
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Five 11.3 mm silver T10 Torx screws, in the holes marked "M", "N", "P", "R", and "T".
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Four 5.6 mm black T9 Torx screws in the holes marked "D", "E", "J", and "K".
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A single 11.3 mm gold T10 Torx screw in the hole marked "A".
Correct size for the orange screws is T8!
I confirm what the user above me said, they were T8, at least on my Xbox.
I don't have the gold one. Is it normal?
My gold and silver screws were reversed. 5 gold, 1 silver.
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Outil utilisé dans cette étape :Flathead 1.5 mm Screwdriver$5.49
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Starting at the front left corner of the x-clamp, insert a 1.5 mm flathead screwdriver between the heat sink's peg and the x-clamp's hook.
Uggghhhh, Microsoft is still using X-Clamps. Didn't they learn anything from the original 360?
Hopefully having the smaller CPU and GPU on the same die, as well as an "improved fan cooling system" will keep those old issues from rearing their ugly heads. The Red Ring of Death technically doesn't exist anymore, either.
I've been reading that people are ruining their boards on this step when they slip and the tool slices the main board while trying to remove the x-clamp. Use a metal spudger and slip it between the post and the x-clamp from ABOVE... not along the bottom where the board is. The whole clamp came off in 30 seconds and the spudger was nowhere near the pcb.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
68 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
16 commentaires
This is a great guide. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
Intercooler guys, purchase an intercooler and save yourself from this hassle
I had problems getting the x-bracket off the back (step 54-57).
I found this video using a pair of needle nose pliers that helped me immensely with this step:
I think we all ended up finding that video...
Thank you for taking the time to make this very instructional guide
I bought the single kit with tools and the multi fix kit. The kits come with mini heat sinks, pads, washers and screws. Nothing in this set of directions tells me where to use them.? Are there other directions somewhere that I have as yet not found?
This is an awesome guide that I only found after getting stuck trying to remove the heat sink - wish I had found it before I started. Once removed I found an odd pattern of thermal paste, the circle of copper on the heat sink and beneath it on the chip only had a few spattering’s of thermal paste - is it possible that heat pushed the thermal paste out to the boundaries of the chip?
I’m going to go look for a recommendation of what type of thermal paste I should put back down.
Why didn’t u show us how to reinstall the X clamp bracket. Its not as easy as just sticking it on so maybe don’t forget that.
Hey guys I figured out how to put the bracket back on with out killing the mobo. Here follow this:
So first off u need to look back at the part where u take off the bracket. That way u know what way the bracket came off as. This might not matter but I couldn’t get mine with out lining it up correctly from when I removed it so do that first.
Then put new thermal paste on the CPU>put heatsink threw mobo and flip the mobo over.
Now align the bracket as u did before u took it off, then hook the bracket on one end of the heatsink screw holes. Now push firmly down on the opposite screw hole from the one u are notched on right now. If u do it right u should have those 2 brackets parts notched on the screw holes. If not take off the brackets and try again. Once done with the first set simply do the same thing to the last set.
Hope this helps for those like me who got confused when there wasn’t a section showing how to put the bracket back on.
Is the Heatsink on this model your showing have the old, original, upgraded or newest one? My daughter's Slim was very dirty dusty & clogged cooling intake and I cleaned it. She has an external fan also that plug into USB port and it is obvious why overheating but I want to know if heatsink should be replaced it has that same circle copper center core heatsink. I have looked at a couple of heatsink sites online showing progression of changing of sinks xbox went through but not this one. I'm hoping it is the newer or better yet the newest style. I have artic silver 5 thermal paste I use on video cards & processors on my computer builds & repairs. I don't know what paste the xbox360 slim uses and I have seen the crappy thermal pads used in some Compaq Laptops for the video processor which I switch out for a copper plate thermal pasted and the heat immediately goes away. If you know which sink this is should I switch it or just take it off and replace the paste? Thanks
James Hamicksburg
יעקב המיקסברג
I starred this guide because I like long guides, as well as well-organized ones. Yours is both! You’re welcome!
It is great! Do you any of you guys have any information what is the space (its like a cpu socket on pc’s) between the cpu holding holes. I’m asking because i’d like to put on a aio watercooilng kit into it. :) Thanks.
What is that metal embedded in the heatsink? Is it copper?
two scratches because of how hard the heatsink is hard to take off and one stab to the mobo because of how hard it was to screw the fan back, and the thing still works. 10/10 would accidentally damage my xbox again
haywirestudent7 - that is like putting a band-aid on something. It might work but it isn’t proper or recommended whatsoever. TIM doesn’t last forever. Replacing something defective is highly more advisable then doing something unnecessary.
It is easier to remove the X bracket by using a small flathead screwdriver or spudger to pry between a post and the inside edge of the opening (the side nearest the center). This will disengage the hook on the opposite side of the X. Releasing two ends that are side-by-side allows for removal by only working on two legs.
When separating the second part of the main case, there is no need to damage the edges of the plastic. There really is a small (about 1mm) hole near the "checkmark" under the tough plastic sticker. You still need to remove the little Warranty Sticker, because that binds the two pieces of the case. Pushing very firmly on the black sticker with the pad of your thumb will make a faint dimple where the hole is; puncture it with something sharp, then press a straightened paper clip through the hole to release the clip.