Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer la caméra arrière.

Vidéo d'introduction

Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium ion chargée peut s'enflammer et/ou exploser si elle est percée accidentellement.
  • Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium ion chargée peut s'enflammer et/ou exploser si elle est percée accidentellement.

  • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer la réparation.

  • Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe de 3,6 mm situées près du connecteur Lightning.

I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

estebanfallasf - Réponse

I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

Margaret Patterson - Réponse

  • Les trois prochaines étapes vous montrent comment utiliser l'iSclack, une pince spécialement conçue pour ouvrir votre iPhone 6 Plus en toute sécurité, et que nous recommandons à tous ceux qui éffectuent souvent de réparations. Si vous n'utilisez pas d'iSclack, passez directement à l'étape 4.

  • Si la jauge de profondeur en plastique est attachée au milieu de l'iSclack, retirez-la, elle n'est pas nécessaire pour les iPhone de grande taille tel que l'iPhone 6 Plus.

  • Serrez les poignées pour ouvrir les mâchoires avec les ventouses.

  • Placez la partie inférieure de votre iPhone entre les deux ventouses.

    • Positionnez la ventouse supérieure contre la vitre près du bouton home.

  • Ouvrez les poignées pour fermer les ventouses. Centrez et exercez une pression sur les ventouses.

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  • Tenez bien votre iPhone et desserrez les poignées de l'iSclack pour séparer les ventouses et enlever la vitre du boîtier arrière.

  • Le iSclack est conçu pour ouvrir votre iPhone en toute sécurité, c'est à dire, sans risquer d'endommager les nappes de l'écran.

  • Décollez les deux ventouses de votre iPhone.

  • Sautez les trois prochaines étapes et continuez à l'étape 7

It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?

Herbert - Réponse

I don't recommend replacing the home button. HOWEVER, I would purchase an iSesamo tool (I paid $8 for a 3 pack on FleaBay) and jam that in between the frame and bezel. Most effective way to open a iPhone. Once you get used to it an iSesamo becomes an extension of your arm.

iRevive Mobile -

I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.

Michael Wallace -

I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.

johnoconna -

Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.

Tracey -

Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

Abigail Cherry - Réponse

I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

Mike - Réponse

  • Si vous n'avez pas d'iSlack, utilisez une ventouse pour soulever l'écran :

    • Posez une ventouse sur la vitre juste au dessus du bouton home et appuyez.

    • Assurez-vous que la ventouse est bien accrochée à la vitre.

Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.

Paul Briffaut - Réponse

English Please!

tom mozeleski -

With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

Steve Schlotter - Réponse

  • Tout en tenant l'iPhone, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement l'écran du boîtier arrière.

    • Prenez votre temps et tirez de façon ferme et continue. L'écran tient beaucoup mieux que la plupart des composants.

  • Utilisez un outil en plastique (plastic opening tool) pour pousser le boîtier vers le bas tout en tirant sur la ventouse vers le haut.

  • Il y a plusieurs clips qui attachent l'écran au boîtier, il vous faudra utiliser et la ventouse et l'outil en plastique ( plastic opening tool) pour libérer l'écran.

Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

Thomas - Réponse

watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

Aaron Fitzpatrick - Réponse

  • Tirez sur le bouton en plastique pour relâcher la pression interne de la ventouse.

  • Décrochez la ventouse de l'écran.

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  • Soulevez la partie de l'écran avec le bouton home tout en utilisant la partie supérieure du téléphone pour faire charnière.

  • Ouvrez l'écran à un angle d'environ 90 °, et penchez-le contre quelque chose pour le garder calé pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone.

    • Ajoutez une bande adhésive pour maintenir l'écran bien en place pendant que vous travaillez. Cela évite une pression excessive sur les câbles de l´écran.

    • À la limite, vous pouvez utiliser une boisson en canette fermée pour maintenir l'écran.

Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.


Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

txaukos - Réponse

At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

Perdón por mi mal inglés

txaukos - Réponse

  • Plusieurs clips le long du bord supérieur de l'écran forment une charnière partielle, permettant d'ouvrir l'écran comme un livre.

  • Lors du remontage, alignez les clips correctement sous le bord supérieur du boîtier. Puis insérez l'écran jusqu'à ce que son bord supérieur soit au même niveau que celui du boîtier.

I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

anthonyspampinato - Réponse

  • Retirez les vis Phillips # 00 suivantes du support du connecteur de la batterie :

    • Une vis Phillips #00 2.3 mm

    • Une vis Phillips #00 3.1 mm

for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

Michael Adams - Réponse

The screw circled in red won't come out and I'm using a 1.2 screw driver

Sierra - Réponse

I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

Allen Matheson - Réponse

stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

Matthew Gao - Réponse

The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

David Davis - Réponse

Same issue. Could not remove the screw. Dead in the water.

Tiffany - Réponse

  • Retirez le support métallique du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.

Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

dwtan - Réponse

That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

Evan Noronha -

It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

Al Taylor - Réponse

  • Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour soulever délicatement le connecteur de batterie de son support sur la carte logique.

  • Prenez soin de seulement faire levier sur le connecteur de la batterie, et non sur la prise de la carte logique. Si vous faites levier sur la prise de la carte logique, vous risquez de briser entièrement le connecteur.

you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

Michael Adams - Réponse

It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

Al Taylor - Réponse

J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

Paul Briffaut - Réponse

Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

Kenneth Gilbert - Réponse

  • Tout en tenant l'écran ouvert à un angle de 90°, enlevez les vis suivantes qui maintiennent le cache des connecteurs de l'écran :

    • Trois vis cruciformes Phillips #00 de 1,2mm

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips #00 de 1,5mm

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips #00 de 2,9mm

There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

Herbert - Réponse

I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

cscarlson47shop - Réponse

I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.

Chris Murphy -

On my iPhone 6 plus, none of the screws listed in this step are removable with the Phillips 00 screwdriver! I got this far and now am stymied because I can't get these four screws out! Any other screwdrivers I should use?

garth libhart - Réponse

You are absolutely right, and you will strip the heads if you try very hard with the PH00. These screws are all PH000.

oscar -

I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

hhandh - Réponse

Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

Dany Castillo - Réponse

That's what I was thinking.

The Wizard - Réponse

I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

mark - Réponse

I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

Patric - Réponse

which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

MONsterHEIT - Réponse

I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

whiteshephard - Réponse

I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

Steve Schlotter - Réponse

  • Enlevez le cache des connecteurs de l'écran de la carte mère.

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  • Pendant les quatre étapes suivantes, faites attention de ne déconnecter que les connecteurs des nappes et surtout pas les connections sur la carte mère.

  • Tout en tenant toujours l'écran, utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un Spudger (spatule en nylon) pour déconnecter la caméra avant et la nappe du haut-parleur interne.

Why does the screen need to come off?

Sterling Coffey (N0SSC) - Réponse

Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

Matthew Goheen - Réponse

  • Utilisez un outil en plastique (plastic opening tool) pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe de bouton home.

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  • Utilisez un outil en plastique (plastic opening tool) pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe de gestion de l'écran.

  • Lors du remontage de votre téléphone, la nappe de gestion de l'écran peut se défaire du connecteur. Les conséquences peuvent être des lignes blanches ou un écran noir lorsque vous rallumez votre téléphone. Si c'est le cas, reconnectez simplement la nappe et débranchez et rebranchez votre téléphone. La meilleure façon de le faire est de déconnecter et reconnecter le connecteur de la batterie

The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

Gianni - Réponse

how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

Teresa Trevino - Réponse

If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Utilisez un outil en plastique (plastic opening tool) pour déconnecter la nappe de gestion tactile.

  • Lors de la reconnexion du câble numériseur, ne pas appuyer sur le centre du connecteur. Appuyez sur une extrémité du connecteur, puis appuyez sur l'extrémité opposée. Appuyer sur le centre du connecteur peut plier le composant et causer des dommages au numériseur.

some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

cscarlson47shop - Réponse

When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

cscarlson47shop - Réponse

I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

mattmay002 -

Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

Karen Jones - Réponse

I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

Henry A -

could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

ChiangFeng - Réponse

To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

Robert Liles - Réponse

I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

Albert Einstein - Réponse

Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

richard - Réponse

  • Détachez l'écran du boîtier arrière.

Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

Marvin Ballard - Réponse

How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

Shamil Bhatti -

The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

jeffxtechs - Réponse

I think you mean Step 8 :)

Jeff Suovanen -

How do you disconnect the battery

I tried it once and

Brian - Réponse

And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?

Oh I get it… they got him! :(

domarius -

When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.


  • A l'aide d'une pincette, décollez le morceau de bande adhésive qui recouvre la vis cachée maintenant la fixation de la caméra arrière au boîtier arrière.

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  • Retirez les vis suivantes qui maintiennent la fixation de la caméra arrière au boîtier arrière :

    • Une vis cruciforme #00 de 1,7 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme #00 de 2,3 mm

Careful to not unscrew the screw right below the 2.3 mm one circled in orange. I did it and some mystery part that was attached to the camera bracket broke off as it was attached to that screw and pretty fragile !

nanomeko - Réponse

The part that fell off is the nfc cable for apple pay which is housed behind the camera

nanomeko - Réponse

  • Soulevez et retirez la fixation de la caméra arrière en la séparant de la caméra arrière.

There is a small ribbon cable under the right screw tab, it sticks to the bottom of the bracket. Be careful to separate them when lifting away the bracket and don't rip off the cable.

Steve Berardi - Réponse

  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour débrancher le connecteur de la caméra arrière de sa prise sur la carte mère.

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  • Soulevez et retirez soigneusement la caméra arrière de l'iPhone.

Does anyone know if the bracket that the camera module rests in, is removable?

I bought a new back housing, but I don't see anywhere if the bracket is removable. I don't even think it was removed by the ifixit team during the teardown...

Will - Réponse


Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions en sens inverse.

88 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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14 commentaires

Great how-to article. I was able to follow it and fix my son's camera within an hour. Patience is key -- take your time and stay organized and you'll get through this.

Josh Gormley - Réponse

Great guide, replacement worked a treat!

eric - Réponse

I liked How you explained step by step thanks

Reynaldo - Réponse

After the replacement the LCD started to freezing.

auwadhablani - Réponse

after my replacement with the ifixit camera, my camera twitches and will not focus :(

Brent Conklin - Réponse

great, easy to follow directions... which i followed 3 times... d’oh! after the initial replacement, wondered why the picture was slightly out of focus... and it dawned on me there might be a protective film on the camera lens… BINGO. that problem solved… until i had NO picture after the second try. turns out i didn’t have the camera connector seated securely. third time was the charm.

craig rousseau - Réponse

After change it my rear camera still stuck..and cannot use my

bro fix - Réponse

Mission accomplished after 90 min. No problems. Reading the extra comments by the users is mandatory.

Macrele - Réponse

Did all these steps put new camera in and reassembled now blank screen when I use camera and flash not working so I reinstalled the old one and everything worked again but old cameras still not focused so I put new one in and same blank screen and I have a warning says flash to hot let cool down and either it or camera still not working also I reset phone still no go

2005harleyDarcyHrytsay - Réponse

Wow what an amazingly EASY FIX. My picture was wavy and shaking before and now it works just like new. Thanks for the great guide and thanks to IFIXIT for supplying the part at such a great price.

Billy Ayoubi - Réponse

This was amazingly simple and fixed my problem completely. Blurry camera that wouldn’t focus. The “isight” module was most likely gone in my old camera. Managed to fix in 20 minutes with zero issues on an iPhone 6 Plus - not a 6s Plus. If you have any questions at all or feel nervous about doing this upgrade, feel free to send me a message.

Wolfsuul - Réponse

Great guide! Replaced my mother’s iPhone rear camera with new iFixit parts, and works perfect! Took 30 mins.

Stanislaw - Réponse

Worked like a charm. Only took 20 min like the guide said.

Apple has issued a recall on iPhone 6+ back cameras and will replace them for free… unless you’ve already replaced your battery with one of the high quality iFixit ones. If you have they’ll waste an hour+ of your time in the apple store and then send you home to do it yourself, even though they admit the original part is faulty. Good times.

TheNickus - Réponse

My rear camera was wavy and wouldn’t focus. It had double vision like a drunk person. This fixed it!

murat mckeown - Réponse

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