Introduction

Le remplacement de l'ensemble carte mère vous offre une nouvelle mémoire flash ainsi qu'une nouvelle batterie.

Insérez le bord d'un outil d'ouverture pour iPod dans l'espace entre la coque extérieure et le cache supérieur.
  • Insérez le bord d'un outil d'ouverture pour iPod dans l'espace entre la coque extérieure et le cache supérieur.

  • Faites levier sur le cache supérieur pour le décoller de l'adhésif le fixant au dispositif de retenue de l'écran.

  • À ce stade, le bouton Arrêt n'est plus fixe et risque de tomber. Veillez à ne pas le perdre.

Be sure to use the smaller iPod opening tool and press it in FIRMLY in order to get enough leverage to get under the bezel and pry it off. Adhesive is very strong, so don't be afraid to use a little bit of force.

captcarl13 - Réponse

Retirez le bouton Arrêt du haut du Nano.
  • Retirez le bouton Arrêt du haut du Nano.

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  • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes coudées des deux coins du dispositif de retenue de l'écran.

  • Ces têtes de vis sont extrêmement petites et s'abîment facilement.

Be sure to use a good phillips #00 screwdriver here, or you run the risk of stripping the very small screws.

iTronics Repair - Réponse

The screws were covered with the adhesive. They were very difficult to remove.

I RUINED the hold switch! I accidentally broke the cord. 0_o The directions were kind of unclear.

bodieg - Réponse

Citation de bodieg :

The screws were covered with the adhesive. They were very difficult to remove.

I RUINED the hold switch! I accidentally broke the cord. 0_o The directions were kind of unclear.

Step 12 is misleading as it does not show to remove the screen from the metal frame.

bodieg - Réponse

Sorry guys, but the explanations are really bad. Go onto youtube and watch it. This site misses heaps of steps. I just broke my iPod :(

S Mile - Réponse

Like others have noted, screws are covered in adhesive and difficult to remove. Take extreme care to not strip the heads. I'd suggest using a very small flathead to scrape some of the adhesive off before attempting to remove the screws.

captcarl13 - Réponse

a 1mm slotted screwdriver will work in a pinch, but be carefull and make sure you get the angle just right

andrew - Réponse

The tools list doesn't say you need an iPod opener to, nor does the parts list day you'll need a new click wheel, though this is called ”...click wheel REPLACEMENT​”. I don't get the feeling these are very trustworthy instructions, ESPECIALLY after having read other comments. I'd say BEWARE, and look at a variety of resources to get a much more comprehensive picture.

Skyfire - Réponse

Actually, the screws are not aligned with the edges of the iPod, which means that you must not try to unscrew them vertically. If you do there is a good chance that you damage the head of the screws. Thus look carefully with a torch to see at what angle you have to unscrew them.

Fabrice Sarelli - Réponse

Actually, the screws are not aligned with the edges of the iPod. That means that if you try to unscrew them vertically, there is a good chance that you damage the head of the screws. Thus, look carefully with a torch to see exactly at what angle you need to unscrew them safelly.

Fabrice Sarelli - Réponse

Everything was good up to this point. I could barely see the screws and ended up stripping them. Just gave up at this point and threw the

Ipod on the ground and stomped on it.

gonzalo gonzalez - Réponse

I agree with several other contributors here, that a properly sized flat screwdriver *that is not worn* held at the correct angle is a better option than a phillips because the screw head is filled in with adhesive tape. BEWARE: The screws on the top and bottom outer edges are not parallel to the case. They are offset by 25 or 30 degrees, with the tips of the screws pointing out towards the outer edge of the case with respect to where the heads are. Use something to get magnification so you can really see how your screwdriver fits, and whether it’s engaged. An undamaged and properly sized standard screwdriver held in the appropriate orientation will readily remove the top and bottom side screws without stripping and with very little force. Feel for engagement — press the screwdriver in just enough to get past the adhesive. Not much torque or pressure is required — just a good fit. You must have the right tools to do this job successfully, and look under high magnification. Align your screwdriver!

Barry L. Kramer - Réponse

  • Insérez un outil d'ouverture pour iPod entre la coque extérieure et le dispositif de retenue de l'écran.

  • Utilisez l'outil pour faire légèrement légèrement l'écran de la coque.

  • Ne faites pas pivoter le dispositif de retenue de l'écran autour du bord supérieur de l'écran, car il est fixé à un support en acier mince qui se casse facilement.

  • Ne forcez pas le retrait du dispositif de retenue de l'écran, car la nappe du bouton Arrêt est susceptible de casser.

I found I had to gently pry the retainer open with a craft knife (xacto knife?) as the plastic opener tool was too blunt or soft to get any purchase...

aaaidan - Réponse

My nano had a "swollen" battery which wedged the LCD between battery and front glass. As a result, this step didn't work, I couldn't pull out the TFT and botched case, TFT and TFT frame until it came out. Telltale sign was a display that looked like there is a water between glass and LCD. The other nanos I've opened didnt have this problem and came out effortlessly, so if yours is stuck, don't feel bad, there's not much you can do!

oliver - Réponse

  • Faites glisser l'écran hors du Nano. Il se déplacera d'environ 1 cm jusqu'à ce que le câble de données de l'écran vous empêche de tirer plus.

  • Ne forcez pas sur le très mince câble de données de l'écran.

I have several problems in taking it out. I don't know if it is dued to the glue that the iPod has inside. Could you help me. Thanks

Hector - Réponse

instructions say 5" (inches) it really means 5mm

pedalsandpicks - Réponse

Citation de pedalsandpicks :

instructions say 5" (inches) it really means 5mm

If you're gonna repair the way you read it will get you nowhere: the text reads .(as point)5 inch. Which is about 12mm.

Frank veenis - Réponse

The glass panel can be very difficult to get moving requiring a lot of downward force. I have found good old fashioned spit to be very useful here.Just lick both thumbs and rub on fingers until just sticky enough.

This willl move the glass.

Pete Green - Réponse

  • Lorsque l'écran est sorti du boîtier autant que possible, appuyez doucement sur le bord inférieur de la vitre jusqu'à ce qu'elle se soulève légèrement (~ 1 mm).

  • Appuyez vos pouces sur le bord inférieur de la vitre pour la faire glisser vers le bas et dans le boîtier jusqu'à ce que le bord supérieur sorte du boîtier.

I found the adhesive (or fit) quite strong. Pushing on the bottom part of the glass created a small gap at the top, which I could fit a craft knife (xacto blade) into. This made it easier to carefully lever the glass out for me.

aaaidan - Réponse

I slipped and broke the LCD. So !#^&@@ off. What an absolute bastard of a job!

lf - Réponse

What is the "rear edge" of the nano? Can this be a bit clearer please? Maybe a video of this step would be a good idea. Then again, since Apple owns this site, I guess that's not gonna happen, is it?

lf - Réponse

I don't see "rear edge" anywhere in the instructions. I do see "lower edge" a few times and it looks pretty clear to me. I did this repair a couple years ago without much trouble.

Rene Jeddore -

You could do all these steps and really mess up your nano. Instead of disassembling the iPod, carefully remove the remnants of the old glass which I assumed you have cracked. With the new glass in hand CAREFULLY sand one edge of the glass evenly. I used my fine grinder on my dremel tool. After assuring a snug fit I removed the adhesive and installed the glass. Looks great and functional and I didn't ruin my iPod in the process. And when I said sand one edge I mean one of the edges that has a "lip" on it. The other lip you can slide right in and push gently down for a nice fit. Do not remove the adhesive until you are sure of a good fit. This is a quick fix for those who are too queezy to take apart their device.

Jim - Réponse

  • Soulevez la vitre du Nano.

  • Avant de réinstaller la vitre, assurez-vous de nettoyer la face de l'écran et l'intérieur de la vitre, car toute poussière ou empreinte digitale sera nettement visible lorsque le Nano est allumé.

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  • Utilisez le bord d'un outil d'ouverture pour iPod pour décoller le bouton Arrêt de l'adhésif le fixant au bord supérieur de l'écran.

  • La nappe du bouton Arrêt est extrêmement fragile et se casse facilement. Travaillez avec précaution.

Be extremely careful while doing anything around the screen. The slightest bit of pressure in the wrong direction and you will be replacing the screen along with the battery. I speak from experience.

Brian Campbell - Réponse

  • Décollez le ruban adhésif Kapton recouvrant la prise du câble de données de l'écran.

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  • Tout en appuyant sur la prise de couleur claire vers le bas avec un doigt, utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour faire basculer le dispositif de verrouillage ZIF du câble vers le bas du Nano.

Continue to carefully hold the socket down while doing the next step. If the cable come off at the wrong angle it can pull the connector away from the board at the base of the screen.

Brian Campbell - Réponse

  • Utilisez un outil d'ouverture pour iPod pour décoller le câble de données de l'écran de la mince plaque métallique attachée à l'écran.

  • Veillez à ne pas déchirer le câble de données de l'écran.

Some of the ribbon is inside the white housing with the lock on, it needs to slide out of the housing. I didn't notice this because everything is so small - be sure not to slide your pry tool right through it.

Martin Mccaffrey - Réponse

The display can actually be pulled out slightly further than it initially seems. When you gently pull it up, you'll experience some resistance, which I initially thought indicated it was as far as it could go. But an extra bit of (still very gentle) force can pull it up a few more millimetres, which means the opening tool can fit.

Also, it seemed to me to actually be helpful to lever the cable out of its port before removing the ribbon from the adhesive on the plate, since this allowed better access to the adhesive with the opening tool.

aaaidan - Réponse

As commenter Brian Campbell wrote on the previous step, it is important to hold down the white cable socket while carefully working the cable loose from the adhesive. Even a small amount of upward force on the display data cable while it is still inside the socket could be enough to tear the socket off the board. Try not to pry up - use a thin, new (undamaged) opening tool to get under the ribbon cable and keep it parallel and as close to the metal plate as possible. It needs to be worked *under* the data cable, not to pry, as the cable just slides straight out the bottom of the white socket.

Barry L. Kramer - Réponse

  • Retirez l'écran du Nano, en tenant compte de la nappe du bouton Arrêt qui pourrait rester accrochée.

  • Lorsque vous sortez l'écran de la coque, veillez à ne pas casser la nappe du bouton Arrêt.

WATCH THE HOLD SWITCH!! Be *sure* it is disconnected before pulling out the screen! (I've made that mistake too many times :P)

iTronics Repair - Réponse

disconnected from what?

I never saw where it was connected to!

Fred Rodolf -

By "caught" do you mean glued to the case? Mine was, and I cant tell how I could possibly have removed the screen without it breaking. Luckily my Ipod was already broken, but now its even more broke because of this guide.

swd311000 - Réponse

  • Insérez un outil d'ouverture pour iPod entre le joint inférieur et le connecteur de dock.

  • Décollez le joint inférieur de l'adhésif le fixant au Nano et mettez-le de côté.

Follow this picture exactly, inserting the tool in the dock port to pry off the bottom plastic piece-- if you pry on the edges you may bend or break this plastic piece.

iTronics Repair - Réponse

  • Retirez les trois vis cruciformes au fond du Nano.

  • Ces têtes de vis sont extrêmement petites et facilement endommagées.

  • La vis légèrement plus longue parmi les trois se situe au milieu.

In my case, the screw on the left was impossible to remove, it looked like it was unscrewing but was not ... I could not proceed any further.

Any advice?

Gauthier Scavée - Réponse

If a screw is stripped, you need to somehow get another under the head to apply pressure to unscrew it (while unscrewing it). It’s an unpleasant operation where you have to apply pressure to keep the screwdriver pressed into the head while prying outward so the threads back out. Try not to strip the head, and try not to strip the threads, while helping the threads to catch.

If this happens, you’ll need to replace the screw. It’s not a good idea to reinstall a stripped screw.

Barry L. Kramer - Réponse

  • Utilisez un outil d'ouverture pour iPod pour extraire du Nano le joint en aluminium du dock.

  • Le joint du dock de l'iPod Nano est en aluminium très fin et fragile. Ne le pliez pas trop pendant le démontage pour éviter de le casser.

I found using the opening tool to wedge up (toward the case) from between the metal bit (which is a plate) and the dock socket was the easiest way to do this.

aaaidan - Réponse

  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour décoller la batterie de l'adhésif qui l'attache à la coque extérieure.

  • La batterie lithium-polymère utilisée dans le Nano est très flexible. Essayez de ne pas ls déformer excessivement quand vous l'enlevez de la coque extérieure.

  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour pousser l'ensemble formé par la carte mère et la batterie légèrement hors du fond du Nano. Arrêtez-vous une fois qu'elle se soulève un peu.

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  • Utilisez le bord d'un outil d'ouverture pour iPod pour décoller la nappe de la molette de cliquable et sa prise ZIF du connecteur de dock.

No, don’t do step 17 without reading step 18 and 19 first! Step 17 is very misleading read on its own, you will break the connector. You need to read setps 17, 18 and 19 before starting step 17.

John beGood - Réponse

Pay heed to the word “peel”. Don’t pry. Work the tool slowly under the connector, keeping it as close to the board as possible. Don’t pry. The unit I repaired also had a small piece of Kapton tape, the corner of which can be lifted with tweezers.

Barry L. Kramer - Réponse

  • Utilisez le bord d'un outil d'ouverture pour iPod pour faire basculer le clapet de retenue ZIF de la nappe en direction de la prise casque.

you might want to put a note for the delicacy of this cable on Step 16... because the cable can break as you slide the logic board assembly out :o(

juliforsyth - Réponse

  • Utilisez une paire de pincette pour faire glisser la nappe de la molette cliquable hors de sa prise.

  • Avant de procéder, assurez-vous que les deux, la prise de la nappe de la molette cliquable ainsi que sa nappe sont décollées de l'adhésif qui les fixent au connecteur de dock et à la carte mère.

  • Décollez la nappe des deux côtés !

You forgot to mention that the click wheel ribbon cable needs to be detached from the adhesive holding it to the main board. Now my ipod is really broken. Please review your instructions to include all the steps!

Mike - Réponse

Citation de Mike :

You forgot to mention that the click wheel ribbon cable needs to be detached from the adhesive holding it to the main board. Now my iPod is really broken. Please review your instructions to include all the steps!

Mine too, but the iPod was already toast :D, so now i have a stylish 8GB External SSD

Chris Green - Réponse

There has got to be a trick to it, or something I am missing when putting it back together. I can't get the click wheel ribbon to go back in properly. It keeps getting bunched up and sticking out the end. It is long enough to stick out so you can detach it from the other ribbon, so is it supposed to fold up inside when you push it in?

reedc1 - Réponse

Does anyone know of a source of mainboards for this Nano. Preferably in the European Community or China? Every other part seems to be available but this one.

I've even found dud mainboards for sale on the U.S. Ebay site. What on earth would anyone do with a faulty Maiboard?

Pete Green - Réponse

TOOLS: I've ben reading a few commments regarding difficulty wth the screws. I was also told the Phillips screwdriver isn't a true Phillips but has an offset leg. Not having seen one I can't comment with any certainty.

However,being an improvisor,I've been doing very well with a couple of watchmakers screwdrivers.The flat blades are about 1mm across and made of hard blued steel. The sharp corners dig into the screw and push any glue out of the way. A phillips won't push though glue. I used to buy these in a small plastic box - usuallly on street markets.

Pete Green - Réponse

Well... beware, this part is tricky ! the click-wheel ribbon stuck and get cut when pulling the battery+motherboard out. Too bad :(

Anyway it was "last chance" for my 7-years old blue nano, battery wasn't providing more than 15 minutes autonomy.

Too bad, it was my fist iPod and I liked it much than my new 7th gen'.

Playoff - Réponse

Your photos are showing the wrong cable being removed from the zip lock connector and freed, you are not showing that the cable coming from the click wheel is disconnected and freed. Your photo is showing that the cable from the logic board is disconnected and freed. This means that when the logic board is removed, the cable to the click wheel breaks. Your text and warnings are correct, but your photos are misleading. Very bad compared to the rest of the instructions in steps 1 - 16, which are excellent and better than anything else I found. A shame to spoil it with this step. It is not sufficient to warn in the text that “both ends of the cable need to be freed”, you have to add a photo showing the click wheel cable has been disconnected and freed (and what do you mean by both ends of the cable need to be freed - there are TWO cables, one to the logic board, one to the click wheel and you are showing the wrong cable to the logic board as being freed.

John beGood - Réponse

  • Retirez l'ensemble de la carte mère de la coque extérieure, en tenant compte des nappes du bouton Arrête et de la molette cliquable, susceptibles de rester accrochés.

  • Lors du remontage, assurez-vous que la nappe de la molette cliquable est orientée vers l'avant du Nano et non sur les rainures de côté. Si elle est dans la rainure, vous allez probablement la couper quand vous mettrez la carte mère en place.

My click wheel cable got sliced reinserting the logic board, so make sure your click wheel cable is on the front (like the instructions say), and not on the side. It would help if there were explicit reassembly instructions and not just "do these in the reverse order", so that special reassembly notes stand out more.

Randall Theobald - Réponse

Instead of pulling it out, I found it easier to use the display hole to push on the top part of the battery straight down toward the bottom of the unit. This gives you far greater control of the battery/mainboard removal operation; you can push it out (down) in tiny increments and confirm no cables are caught as you do it. Pulling can cause a sudden, catastrophic release and if something is caught, it’s destroyed.

Barry L. Kramer - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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Wouldn't it be easier to open the ZIF socket whilst it is still stuck down?

Pete Green - Réponse

On step 11 I found that the cable was still stuck down by the bit under the metal case. The opening tool failed to get at this.

I cut the live head off a match and trimmed it to a long chisel edge.

Pine is soft,strong and non conductive.I was able to poke under the metal body and release the remaining adhesive seal.

Pete Green - Réponse

Failure. Another broken iPod due to the incompleteness of step 20. I will add a step 21 with description but I will need some nice looking pictures.

Gallomimia - Réponse

TOOLS: I don't see any offset legs in the screws themselves, however either my 00 phillips is bigger than yours, or these screws are actually 000 phillips. In either case, I found that the heads were full of adhesive, and using a tiny flathead driver and a sharp knife I was able to clear it out just enough to get the screws out.

Gallomimia - Réponse

Your instructions are excellent up to steps 17-19. Up to that point they are better than any other instructions I found on the internet, but sadly they are spoiled because you are missing a photo in steps 17-19 to show that the cable coming from the click wheel has to be disconnected and freed. Following a lot of user comments on step 19 you have added text and red warnings to warn the user to disconnect the click wheel cable, but your photos show the wrong cable coming from the logic board as being freed. You talk about freeing both ends of the cable, but there are TWO cables, one coming from the logic board (which is not important) and one coming from the click wheel (which has to be freed. A shame on an otherwise excellent set of instructions.

John beGood - Réponse

This is my second time trying to open one of these, both times I broke the switch ribbon cable. I know it says its fragile and that’s obvious but it is SERIOUSLY fragile, dont pull on, pry under, touch or even look at this ribbon or it will break. Get the pry tool underneath the whole connector and tilt the tool slightly until the whole thing pops off. Seriously, dont blink too close to that ribbon.

Christopher Porter - Réponse

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