Introduction

Mettez à niveau votre disque dur pour disposer d'une plus grande capacité de stockage.

Desserrez l'unique vis Phillips au centre de la trappe d'accès.
  • Desserrez l'unique vis Phillips au centre de la trappe d'accès.

  • Cette vis est captive dans la trappe d'accès.

  • Retirez la trappe d'accès de votre iMac.

isn't it actually pc2-5300s ?

grze - Réponse

La vitre est fixée au cadre avant par quatorze aimants répartis sur son périmètre. Collez une ventouse sur un angle de la vitre et une autre ventouse sur l'angle opposé.
  • La vitre est fixée au cadre avant par quatorze aimants répartis sur son périmètre.

  • Collez une ventouse sur un angle de la vitre et une autre ventouse sur l'angle opposé.

  • Pour fixer une ventouse, commencez par la positionner avec la poignée mobile parallèle à la surface de la vitre. Tout en maintenant légèrement la ventouse contre la vitre, soulevez la poignée mobile jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit parallèle à l'autre poignée.

  • Si la ventouse n'adhère pas à la vitre, essayez de les nettoyer, l'une et l'autre, à l'aide d'un solvant doux tel que le Windex.

At this stage and later handling the LCD I found thin cotton gloves helped to reduce smudges

john31 - Réponse

My GPS unit's car mount suction cup worked nicely here - couldn't find any at the store and didn't want to wait for mail order!

Two cups would make it easier but one is fine if you place it in the center and are careful to pull the panel straight out.

Mathew Hendry - Réponse

Why use suction cups when some finger nails will do the job nicely, though a plastic spudger might work too. Start at a top corner. Prize the glass away from the case and leave finger nails in. Move the other hand along the top edge and then with finger spread peel the screen cover away. Be careful not to twist plastic I suppose, but I've had no difficulties.

damianwise - Réponse

3M Command Strip hooks in opposite corners is another fabulous option when suction cups are not available!

Adam McCombs - Réponse

Tape works fine, here. Search for a YouTube video for a simple look-see.

Richard - Réponse

I didn't have any suction cups, but my pencil sharpener (the kind that suctions to the table) worked great. I put it on the middle and lifted straight up.

Lisa Mac - Réponse

For a quick 'n' dirty alternative "tool" for this step, take a look at IKEA's Stugvik suction hooks: they provide an excellent adjustable grip. Just used it to take apart an EMC2133. Cheers!

hadderakk - Réponse

Suction cups usually available at Home Depot or Lowes, in the flooring section. (They're used to handle large ceramic & stone floor tiles.)

Griff in Fairbanks - Réponse

Soulevez délicatement la vitre de l'iMac.
  • Soulevez délicatement la vitre de l'iMac.

  • Plusieurs broches de positionnement sont disposées sur le pourtour de la vitre. Pour éviter de les arracher, veillez à soulever la vitre bien droit lors de la dépose.

  • Nettoyez soigneusement la dalle LCD et la face intérieure de la vitre avant le remontage, car la présence de poussière ou d'empreintes digitales pourrait gêner la visibilité une fois l'écran allumé.

In order to avoid unnecessary smudges and what not I covered the LCD itself with some plastic wrap while doing the hard drive upgrade. When I reinstalled it all I needed to do was blow off a few dust particles.

robgendreau - Réponse

While you are at it, it is worth cleaning out dust within the case to help with cooling - particularly around the fans and vents.

For the screen I used a lens cleaner from my camera bag. These have very fine fibers and won't leave detritus.

Mathew Hendry - Réponse

Note that the front glass panel is quite light. When reassembling I found it impossible to get the LCD free of dust with the computer lying on its back. I had success with standing the computer up, tilting the LCD down as far as it goes, holding the glass panel upright in front of the computer (about 1 foot away), lightly spraying both the LCD and the back side of the glass panel with compressed air, and then attaching the glass panel (with the computer upright). It took me 5 tries before it was completely clean of dust once the front glass was on.

axel - Réponse

Retirez les 12 vis suivantes par lesquelles le cadre avant est fixé au boîtier arrière :
  • Retirez les 12 vis suivantes par lesquelles le cadre avant est fixé au boîtier arrière :

    • Huit vis Torx T8 13 mm.

    • Quatre vis Torx T8 25 mm.

On the 24" EMC2134 there are 3 screw sizes: 6x13, 4x20 & 2x30mm, particular note should be made of their location.

john31 - Réponse

Note for the less experienced.. the case is plastic and the metal coarse thread screws will easily cut a new thread in the hole if you don't line up the screw in the original thread. Do this a few times and the hole will be stripped and the screw no longer tightens.

TIP:- place the screw in the hole and rotate BACKWARDS/counter clockwise (for RH threads) until you hear/feel it click/drop into the original thread then tighten the screw down. rotate it a couple times to get the feel of things. If there is any significant resistance you probably don't have the original thread.

This trick also works on the fine metal thread screws and can help avoid cross threading them.

HIH

Richdave - Réponse

On the 24 inch iMac Model A1225 EMC #2134, the two T8 Torx screws in the middle are the longer of the four total bottom 25 mm screws. Just a note for reassembly.

bhoffs - Réponse

This step is not really explained here with pictures. But you can check this same step in another guide to help you : Installazione della mascherina anteriore nell'iMac Intel EMC 2266 da 20"

thibault - Réponse

I'll echo Thibault's comment. This guide does not actually tell you when and/or how to remove the bezel! Click on the other guide he linked to see the photo and instructions.

steven - Réponse

Make sure you're ram slot at the bottom is open to remove front frame bezel

edgain99 - Réponse

I think you're missing this step: With the iMac lying on its back screen facing up, grasp the aluminum sides of the bezel and carefully pull it straight up. Then disconnect the microphone cable. Took me a while to figure it out.

Richard Cacciato - Réponse

I found it helpful to use a few lids from spaghetti sauce jars to hold the different screws. I used a sharpie to mark the inside of the lid w/ location taken from or the step number from directions. Then I placed a small magnet under the lid to hold the screws inside the lid in case I accidentally jostle something on the table. Worked great! You can also use a magnetic knife bar to line up the lids in sequential for the project.

tom - Réponse

Débranchez le connecteur du câble du microphone, en retirant la bande adhésive si nécessaire.
  • Débranchez le connecteur du câble du microphone, en retirant la bande adhésive si nécessaire.

  • Pour installer correctement le cadre avant, enfoncez le câble du microphone et le connecteur dans l'espace vide à côté du support vidéo.

I avoided this step by just flipping the housing over and having it lay flat on the table. The tape on mine was on really tight, and I risking ripping the wires out of the connector if I messed with it (I didn't have some really small scissors which might have helped removing it). I would suggest either securing the body of the iMac and the housing to the table you're working on, or somehow securing the housing to the body, so that it doesn't move around accidentally, since it's only hanging on by a very thin wire at that point.

robgendreau - Réponse

Make sure you do not pull this apart by the wires. Have a firm grasp on the plastic parts. Do not force back together. It only goes back together one way. Also, it is crucial when placing the aluminum bezel back in place that this wire is out of the way. It often gets in the way and is easily damaged.

Kyle Freeman - Réponse

CAUTION - To disconnect the cable, you'll need to support the bezel while you carefully extract slack microphone cable which is tightly tucked within the iMac. (I didn't have this guide's 'notes on' and missed robgendreau's warning - then inadvertently shifted the bezel and busted my microphone cable in this step.)

dagnew - Réponse

Don't forget to pull the microphone cord out before you put the panel back on. Otherwise you will have to go back and remove screws to find that microphone cord

Melvin Hines - Réponse

As robgendreau says, avoid this whole step by opening the bezel and laying it upside down above the iMac, still connected by the mic cord, just carefully. Then replace the battery, suck/blow out your dust, and carefully rotate the front bezel back over the iMac from where you removed it. No cord manipulation or damage at all!

recmsoj - Réponse

Débranchez le connecteur du capteur de température LCD de sa prise sur la carte mère en le tenant bien droit. Si nécessaire, libérez le câble du capteur de température LCD qui passe derrière la carte mère.
  • Débranchez le connecteur du capteur de température LCD de sa prise sur la carte mère en le tenant bien droit.

  • Si nécessaire, libérez le câble du capteur de température LCD qui passe derrière la carte mère.

  • Lorsque vous retirez l'écran, vérifiez si le cable du capteur de température LCD est bien à sa place. En réinstallant l'écran, il se peut sinon qu'il gêne une des vis qui fixe le bas du panneau avant.

This was the most confusing step, because the video shows MJ just tilting the monitor open, and I had a ribbon cable hooked up to it. Finally figured out that the ribbon cable was connected to the LCD temp sensor cable, and it was neatly tucked under the adjacent fan. Had to pull it pretty hard to get it out from under the fan, and then could tilt the LCD. Instructions are not completely clear about this, only that you may have to reroute the cable around the motherboard.

d3nn151950 - Réponse

I agree, there is no sign of how to remove the bezel (it took me several minutes to understand it was even the bezel that came off here) in these steps (in all the guides for this model, in fact). On step 4 says remove the LCD screws, and suddenly step 6 shows innards and fans etc - !! - What about showing the bezel being removed here - super confusing and not up to usual ifixit high standards.

hutchwilco - Réponse

If you rush through the reassembly, it's very easy to miss reconnecting the LCD Temp Display cable. I just did it and one of the fans came on full-speed and stayed there through a new macOS install. Did a Google search and found mention of this symptom. At first I was thinking I switched one or more of the inverter cables but this guide shows that this is not a problem. Once I reviewed this step, the problem was obvious as was the solution. Thanks again, iFixit, for saving my nappy behind.

barryjaylevine - Réponse

Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 5,3 mm par lesquelles le câble de données de l'écran est fixé à la carte mère.
  • Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 5,3 mm par lesquelles le câble de données de l'écran est fixé à la carte mère.

My Torx 6 driver purchased from ifixit didn't fit the screws well and potentially would strip them. Had to purchase a better driver to fit better in order to loosen these screws.

kakisback - Réponse

reinstalling these screws requires extra care to be sure you don't drop it and loose it under any of the other components.

kakisback - Réponse

Make sure not to drop the screws.

ulan - Réponse

Removing these screws was the most difficult part of the whole job. They were tight and felt as if the heads were about to chew up. I had to press really hard and jerk the screwdriver counter clockwise to loosen them. Despite others' warnings, I managed to drop a screw when reinserting.

kevinp - Réponse

The only tool I needed to buy was the T6 Star Bit - the first auto store I went to had it. These screws are tiny so you have to be careful not to drop them!

James Miles - Réponse

When reinstalling these tiny screws, consider placing the iMac upright. That way when you (inevitably) drop these tiny screws, you don't lose them in the guts of the computer where they are likely to fall into a fan.

stown1211 - Réponse

Yes, this step is very difficult. I finally used a magnet to magnetize the torx driver, and that helped immensely...however, that was AFTER I lost the right one inside the computer. You really only need one screw to reattach the monitor connector, however.

d3nn151950 - Réponse

Argh! I dropped my right screw into the bowels of the iMac. I can't find it anywhere and am loath to leave it rattling around as well as to tear down the machine any further.

steven macfarlane - Réponse

Well, I followed the instructions for right-speaker removal and optical drive fan removal and still couldn't find the right screw. I couldn't hear it rattle either so figured it was wedged somewhere. Using an inspection mirror and flashlight, I finally found it. It had fallen down and wedged between the PCB and the plastic housing (below the ports). I was able to slide it toward the right until it came to the void left by the right speaker where it fell out into my hand.

steven macfarlane -

It's true, these were super tight. I only had a T5 which worked on the first screw, but the second wouldn't budge. Ended up filing the tip off the T5 bit - presto! - instant T6.

marcintosh - Réponse

I Think the real screw size is 3.5 mm T6 Torx, not 5.3 mm

raul - Réponse

Dropped those little bastards like 2-3 times into the deeps of my iMac. The right one is really tricky. If you drop it: better get yourself very thin tweezers and gently shake your mac. :(

Popelnase - Réponse

Note that just below where you are working is the PRAM battery. If you have never replaced this, now is a good time so you won't have to open the machine up again in the near future. The battery is a CR2032.

mattgauntt - Réponse

Taking all the warnings into account about losing these tiny screws, during removal and replacement I held onto the screws tightly with a very fine needle nose tweezer. Fortunately I managed not to lose them either out or in. I highly recommend using a small gripper during this step.

recmsoj - Réponse

This step together with step 8 can be avoided. Leave this cable alone. You will have plenty of space to lift the LCD and rest it against a wall or any other object. Again...

1) don't waste your time if you know what you are doing

2) don't complicate things and remove unecessary cables.

Scorps - Réponse

This is true. There's plenty of space to work without taking the whole LCD out, either by resting it on your head, having someone hold it, or propping it on something. This makes steps 7, 8, and 10 unnecessary.

hillman -

While you have the case open this would be a good time to replace the PRAM battery and carefully clean the fan and interior of the case with Q-tips / compressed air.

John Fisk - Réponse

These screws are Torx 7 - at least that was what

I used on them and got a prefect tight fit ... .

Patrik Albin - Réponse

torx 6 didn't do it, needed torx 7

nielsdolieslager - Réponse

Torx7 did NOT work for me. Torx6 did.

pdienstm - Réponse

Tirez sur la languette noire attachée au connecteur du câble de données de l'écran pour le débrancher de la carte mère.
  • Tirez sur la languette noire attachée au connecteur du câble de données de l'écran pour le débrancher de la carte mère.

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Retirez les huit vis Torx T8 12 mm par lesquelles l'écran est fixé au boîtier arrière. Soulevez le côté gauche de l'écran et faites pivoter ce dernier vers la droite de l'iMac.
  • Retirez les huit vis Torx T8 12 mm par lesquelles l'écran est fixé au boîtier arrière.

  • Soulevez le côté gauche de l'écran et faites pivoter ce dernier vers la droite de l'iMac.

I was able to disconnect the two connectors to the front easily. With those off, I just rotated the LCD out of the way to expose the hard drive. Again, make sure it's stabilized if you do this so that when you yank on something else you don't send it flying.

robgendreau - Réponse

I did a HD replacement on my 24 inch iMac. It's basically the same, but it does not have disconnectable invertercables. Instead, there's just one cable that's can't be disconnected. It sits too tight to rotate the display to the degree that you can lean it against something, so the only way to get the job done was to call in an extra set of hands to hold the display while I took out the hard drive.

Marijn - Réponse

On the 2134 model, I found that the LCD must be lifted from the RIGHT (not the left as per the 2133 guide) - the connector wires are covered in nylon housing and it's way easier just having someone hold the LCD vertical whilst you replace the HDD, unless you have small fingers and feel like disconnecting completely ...

simon - Réponse

During reassembly, make sure that the data and temperature cables will reach their sockets before inserting the eight screws.

kevinp - Réponse

Pendant que l'écran est levé, débranchez les quatre câbles inverter. Pendant la réinstallation, placez les quatre connecteurs des câbles inverter dans des espaces vides entre les composants attachés au panneau arrière afin que l'écran repose bien à plat.
  • Pendant que l'écran est levé, débranchez les quatre câbles inverter.

  • Pendant la réinstallation, placez les quatre connecteurs des câbles inverter dans des espaces vides entre les composants attachés au panneau arrière afin que l'écran repose bien à plat.

  • Lors du remontage, l'ordre des câbles inverter est interchangeable dans chaque prise.

  • Si vous changez de disque dur et avez une paire de mains libres à disposition, il est possible de retirer le disque dur en débranchant seulement le connecteur de l'écran et celui de la température LCD à l'étape précédente.

Make sure to not squeeze the inverter-cables between the superdrive and the display when putting the display back on !

epzzky - Réponse

This was the only step different for my 2134 - it is just one cable that connects to the monitor - disconnect the monitor end rather than the motherboard side.

Jim Laredo - Réponse

There is no need to discnnect the inverter cables if display is positioned against a wall or something of the sort. Make sure it doesn't tumble over !!!

info5825 - Réponse

For 24" iMacs, a single power cable is attached on the left side of the screen. To remove the cable, lift the screen from the right side and rotate it to the left. Remove the black plastic protector on the back of the screen and disconnect the cable.

Matt Stichnoth - Réponse

Make sure you squeeze the two ends of the inverter cable together firmly - if not you will get yellow areas on your screen. One of my cables had not quite been clicked together, and I had to unscrew everything all over again.

Philip - Réponse

So does it matter which ones are connected to which?

That is, at each end there are two connectors (one pink/black the other light blue/dark blue on the "male" side). The "female side appear identical. Does it matter if the pink/black "male" one is connected to the wrong "female" one?

Mark Gibson - Réponse

Mark, did you ever get an answer about the connectors?

Mike -

Agreed this is an unspecified issue and i'm surprised it's not covered? Did everyone else just guess?

kainatticus -

Managed to avoid this step just lifting the lcd panel and holding it with my... head ;)

Antonio Bernardini - Réponse

I'm trying to find some information on replacing the power supply temperature sensor cable. Mine broke during removal of a bad power supply.

Mike Overholt - Réponse

found out that taking the 2 inverter cables (top right corner underneath LCD) and mixing them will not work. I got beeping sound. So...you really need to mark the 2 white sockets with P (pink) and B (for light blue-gray color). Then everything will come out smoothly. Again... inserting the 2 inverter cable sets into the right socket DOES MATTER.

Scorps - Réponse

Re: Scorps comment above - I got the “beeping” too. Does anyone know how to resolve it, i.e. identify which goes with which? Other than trying every combination?

mchlgrblsk - Réponse

My screen is just Grey? anyone else have this happen?

Michael McGuire - Réponse

After replacing iMac’s HDD with a new one I’ve got white screen with vertical black and bluish bands on the left side and two horizontal lines dividing the display into three equal parts (see the image). Any idea what that might be?

Andrey - Réponse

Si nécessaire, décollez les bouts de ruban adhésif qui maintiennent les câbles du capteur thermique du lecteur optique/disque dur dans votre iMac.
  • Si nécessaire, décollez les bouts de ruban adhésif qui maintiennent les câbles du capteur thermique du lecteur optique/disque dur dans votre iMac.

Pull the temperature sensor cable for the optical drive well out of the way so you don't trap it when inserting the new hard drive.

kevinp - Réponse

Débranchez le capteur thermique du disque dur en tirant son connecteur vers le haut de l'iMac.
  • Débranchez le capteur thermique du disque dur en tirant son connecteur vers le haut de l'iMac.

  • Lors du retrait de ce connecteur, vous pouvez vous servir des ongles de vos pouces pour pousser les clips de chaque côté du connecteur vers le haut de l'iMac.

I didn't do this on my 2133; just pushed wires out of the way.

robgendreau - Réponse

Rather than disconnect this cable, you might as well jump ahead to steps 19-21 and remove the sensor from the drive.

kevinp - Réponse

this is a NO step. This should be removed and not to confuse people. There is no need in removing this cable. If you do, the fan will be loud and will have side-effects. I am warning everyone to stay away from this step and jump to or replace this step with STEP 20 instead.

Also steps 18 and 19 should not exist either. There should be only STEP 20...remove the entire lock plastic piece that holds together the cable sensor and the sponge with it. That is all you need to and takes you 10 seconds...even using a flat screw driver will do the trick as long as you are not aggressive type and pinch hard on the surface of the hard drive but to the plastic lock piece.

Good luck...you can do it if I did it.

Scorps - Réponse

Lorsque vous appliquez une pression de haut en bas sur le support du disque dur pour le dégager du boîtier arrière, vous devez exercer une force relativement importante. Aussi, nous vous recommandons de poser l'iMac à l'envers sur une table pour éviter de le faire tomber. Appliquez sur le support du disque dur une pression vers le bord inférieur de l'iMac pour le libérer du boîtier arrière, puis faites pivoter le haut du disque dur vers vous.
  • Lorsque vous appliquez une pression de haut en bas sur le support du disque dur pour le dégager du boîtier arrière, vous devez exercer une force relativement importante. Aussi, nous vous recommandons de poser l'iMac à l'envers sur une table pour éviter de le faire tomber.

  • Appliquez sur le support du disque dur une pression vers le bord inférieur de l'iMac pour le libérer du boîtier arrière, puis faites pivoter le haut du disque dur vers vous.

At first it looked like it needed extra force, rather stand the computer in its stand press the bracket firmly it will come out.

Great set of instructions altogether!

Jim Laredo - Réponse

I just braced the foot/stand against my thigh and found there wasn't much force needed. Had to do it twice as I missed the foam pad on the drive I was replacing.

The whole process was simpler than I expected.

I seem to have missed something somewhere as I now have a lot more fan activity than before. A missed sensor connection maybe. Not looking forward to tracking it down.

paul beard -

I worked with the top of the screen facing me. It was very easy to brace my fingers and press with my thumbs to release the drive. I recommend doing it that way if you can.

marcintosh - Réponse

Faites pivoter le disque dur vers vous, puis soulevez-le pour dégager les broches de montage. Le disque dur est toujours raccordé aux câbles SATA.
  • Faites pivoter le disque dur vers vous, puis soulevez-le pour dégager les broches de montage.

  • Le disque dur est toujours raccordé aux câbles SATA.

  • Lors de la réinstallation de votre disque dur, veillez à ne pas faire passer les œillets en caoutchouc à travers les ouvertures du châssis avec les broches situées au-dessous du disque dur, car vous devriez déposer la carte mère pour les retrouver.

During reassembly make sure not to trap the cable for the temperature sensor on the superdrive -- it goes on top of the new hard drive.

kevinp - Réponse

Insérez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger entre le connecteur du câble de données SATA et le bord du disque dur.
  • Insérez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger entre le connecteur du câble de données SATA et le bord du disque dur.

  • Faites tourner le spudger pour séparer le connecteur du disque dur.

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Débranchez le connecteur d'alimentation SATA du disque dur.
  • Débranchez le connecteur d'alimentation SATA du disque dur.

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Retirez le câble de données SATA en débranchant son connecteur du disque dur.
  • Retirez le câble de données SATA en débranchant son connecteur du disque dur.

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Retirez le morceau de ruban mousse qui recouvre le capteur thermique du lecteur optique.
  • Retirez le morceau de ruban mousse qui recouvre le capteur thermique du lecteur optique.

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Avec la pointe d'un spudger, soulevez la patte de verrouillage du capteur thermique tout en tirant légèrement sur le câble du capteur thermique. Si le capteur thermique est collé sur le disque dur, passez à l'étape suivante.
  • Avec la pointe d'un spudger, soulevez la patte de verrouillage du capteur thermique tout en tirant légèrement sur le câble du capteur thermique.

  • Si le capteur thermique est collé sur le disque dur, passez à l'étape suivante.

These instructions were awesome! I replaced my hard drive on my iMac in about 1 hour. I would add compressed air and good quality double sided tape to the tools required. I had to leave everything open, and go out to buy these because most of the tape inside was no longer sticky.

cello2 - Réponse

À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur la bride du capteur thermique pour la décoller du disque dur.
  • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur la bride du capteur thermique pour la décoller du disque dur.

  • Si vous remplacez votre disque dur, réutilisez ce support et le capteur thermique avec la nouvelle unité. Si l'adhésif ne colle plus lors de la réinstallation, placez une bande adhésive double-face au-dessous des deux pattes semi-circulaires de la bride du capteur thermique.

Be careful what kind of tape you use. The adhesive used in standard clear tape (especially cheap stuff) can soften when it gets warm causing the sensor to come unstuck.

I used three strips of duct tape - one either side of the sensor and another over the whole thing, being sure it was flush around all the edges.

Mathew Hendry - Réponse

you dont need step 18 and 19. if you remove that sponge then you will need adhesive to put it back after. Just take the whole thing out...no need to remove the thermal sensor cable from the lock piece. Don't complicate things and waste your time. remove the lock piece at once and it will hold both the cable and the sponge that is glued on the top. 5-10 seconds...job done.

Also...refrain from removing the thermal cable at the other end's socket. leave it in there...again...guys...we are just changing a hard drive....don't complicate things because then the sensor will not detect properly and the fan will spin very loud and will not stop.

its up to you...if you have time and want to do the job twice, then you know what to do.

Scorps - Réponse

I found that a small pocket knife with a very thin blade worked well to gently pry one corner of the temperature sensor assembly - once that started to come up, I used the plastic spudger to finish prying it up.

John Fisk - Réponse

Retirez les deux vis Torx T8 par lesquelles le support du disque dur est fixé à ce dernier.
  • Retirez les deux vis Torx T8 par lesquelles le support du disque dur est fixé à ce dernier.

  • Une fois que vous avez retiré ces deux vis, le support du disque dur se désolidarise de ce dernier.

  • N'oubliez pas de réutiliser ces vis sur le nouveau disque dur.

I replaced the Seagate hard drive from my 20" iMac with a Kingston SSD (HyperX 3K 120GB). The Kingston came with a 3.5" adapter that is suited for replacement in a hard drive bay of a standard ATX tower or similar. Unfortunately, the adapter included with my SSD does not have suitable spacing for attachment to the hard drive bracket used to secure a standard sized drive into place.

For me, it was necessary to attach the SSD to the included adapter and then attach a single screw from the iMac bracket plus one of the Torx pins. As such, my adapter and SSD would pivot -- they are not held securely in place. Since the SSD is not mechanical and should not vibrate like a traditional drive, I felt this was adequate. I could have also used tape or similar to hold it in place. Just be forewarned that the distance between the Torx pins is rather long -- you might face similar challenges when using a smaller 2.5" drive + adapter in your replacement.

anonymous 7237 - Réponse

I had no problem figuring this out. I have never worked on a computer before and had only an idea of what I was getting myself into. I watched the video first and then decided I could do this. I LOVE THIS SITE! I would suggest having compressed air to clean out the inside of the computer, mine was really nasty. I would also suggest using small containers to keep the screws separate or sticky notes that you can label with screw sizes it made putting things back much quicker.

aliciakelly2112 - Réponse

Retirez les deux broches Torx T8 du côté du disque dur où sont situés les connecteurs.
  • Retirez les deux broches Torx T8 du côté du disque dur où sont situés les connecteurs.

  • N'oubliez pas de réutiliser ces vis sur le nouveau disque dur.

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À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, retirez le petit morceau de mousse EMI collé en dessous du disque dur.
  • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, retirez le petit morceau de mousse EMI collé en dessous du disque dur.

  • N'oubliez pas de le recoller sur le nouveau disque dur.

  • Si vous installez un nouveau disque dur, nous avons un guide d'installation OS X.

Why is this necessary? What is the purpose of this EMI foam part? I replaced the Hard Disk with a SSD. Is it a protection because of the vibrations?

seb - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

786 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

Merci à ces traducteurs :

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67 commentaires

Great instructions - used them for my 2134 model. Only difference is on Step 9 - see comments on that step.

Jim Laredo - Réponse

Great directions. The 250 GB Segate in my 2133 failed SMART (two years old) so I replaced it with a 1TB WD Blue drive.

kevinp - Réponse

Wonderful guide. I used it to replace a dead drive in my wife's 24" iMac. Installed a WD Caviar Black 2 TB. I'm jealous because her system now runs faster than mine ;-P.

Here is another reason to DIY this repair, while Apple's labor fee is reasonable, their warranty policy for repairs is not. If you have a new drive installed at the Apple store, your warranty on the drive is only 90 days. Worse yet, the drives are Apple branded, so you can't go to the hard drive manufacturer if the drive fails on day 91.

Mr Mike - Réponse

The two screws in step 8, page 3 are T7 - not T6. Apart from that, excellent guide!

Gunnar Hoffsten - Réponse

When first starting with my OS (Snow Leopard) disk all I got was a whitish or gray screen, not even the mouse. So I started freaking out a bit. I couldn't get the key board to stay on so I kept pushing the keyboard power button while holding the option button and then the mouse arrow came up on the screen. After that the apple sign and then the install procedure started, so I was able to breathe again. So about five in the morning I was able to let it do it's thing and get some sleep. The next day I was able to restore from the external hard drive using Time Machine and so far my IMac 20" 7,1 #2133 is running super fast again probably better than when I got it brand new " if that's possible ". With your instructions on I fixit.com and your videos on YouTube it was pretty darn easy, even for someone like me who has never worked on a computer. The most I've done on a computer I installed a new program (Snow Leopard). Thank you, Tom D.

thcdineen - Réponse

You can install a Seagate Momentus XT 500GB Hybrid SSD in this iMac without issues.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/108374099338...

Steven Hanlon - Réponse

Instructions worked like a charm on my 24" 2134 (taking into account reader's contributions for Step 9). Someone suggested covering the LCD with clingfilm ("Saranwrap") and this is an awesome idea. I was able to have a helper hold the panel while I worked on the hard drive and got no dust or fingerprints on it at all.

A tip if you are replacing the stock hard drive with an SSD: install the SSD onto its carrier so it'll fit in the space left by the hard drive before starting so your helper doesn't have the opportunity to be sarcastic while waiting for you to do it in the middle of the build :-)

Bozo Z Clown - Réponse

Absolutely fantastic faultless guide. Thanks so much! I succesfully installed a Western Digital 2TB SATA drive to my mac to replace our completely failed drive. I had absolutely no issues, although I could have done with some double sided tape to secure some of the sponge (use ordinary tape doubled over in the end.

I also found 2 ordinary suction cups fromone of those little pull down sun blinds in the car were sufficient to pull the screen off.

All now up and running, fresh install of snow leopard and ilife downloading as I write.

Cant tell you how happy I am to have it all up and working again for just the price of the drive (bought from amazon) and some RAM as why not max it out (Crucial memory)

Thanks Ifixit

Sam - Réponse

This step by step is very complete. Be aware that if you are replacing a hard drive with an SSD type and this one is 2.5-in, you will need a mounting bracket or live in shame by using mounting tape.

Gil Lopez - Réponse

Great instructions.

Tip: I sorted all the screws into shot glasses and put little pieces of masking tape near them with the number of the step they correspond to.

Also - Got a cheap set of Torx screwdrivers on amazon, and they turned out to be terrible. Poorly precisioned tips and I had to get a decent set to get the job done. They were just not catching the screws. There was a $4.99 Kobalt "8 in 1" set I got a Lowes that was a much better deal, considering the ones I got were equally priced on Amazon.

Chris Scala - Réponse

Best instructions I've found. The entire process turned out to take less than 1 1/2 hours. The only issue I had, like some others, was the tools I had at hand. Once I bought myself a better quality Torx set this went off without a hitch. Thank you for the help! Special thanks to Chris Scala for his tip about separating the screws with shot glasses. I'm taking that tip with me everywhere I go from now on. Worked like a charm!

David Moorhead - Réponse

Wonderful guide! The instructions were spot on. Thank-you!

stillday - Réponse

I have a 500GB hard drive in my 20" (replaced by APPLE during AppleCare). Is there a way to add an SSD to the mix? Much like the video for the late 2011 iMac - putting a second SSD drive behind the optical drive?

Or should I just replace the HD with a smaller SSD and use external storage for iTunes etc.?

Also, with this iMac being so limited in RAM (4GB Max, yes?) Is it worth spending the money and time to upgrade the HD to SSD?

I look forward to hearing your thoughts.

http://about.me/DwaineStroud

Dwaine Stroud - Réponse

This is an old post, but in case anyone has the same questions:

-Is there a way to add an SSD to the mix? Much like the video for the late 2011 iMac - putting a second SSD drive behind the optical drive?

The hard drive can be replaced with an SSD. There is another guide that shows how to replace the DVD drive with a hard drive.

-Or should I just replace the HD with a smaller SSD and use external storage for iTunes etc.?

That is what I did. I moved my iTunes library to an external drive so a smaller hard drive would be OK.

-Also, with this iMac being so limited in RAM (4GB Max, yes?) Is it worth spending the money and time to upgrade the HD to SSD?

You can actually go to 6GB of RAM. Go to macsales.com and find the RAM options for your model. You should see an option to put in a 4GB and 2GB stick. I have this is my mid-2007 20" iMac. As far as the SSD, I think it makes a huge difference. Startup time went from 1.5 min to 30 seconds. Launching apps is way faster. I am happy I did the upgrade.

mattgauntt -

This really was a disaster for me. The 2008 iMac 2210 was much more difficult to open, and I almost ruined the computer. I spent well over 3 hours just trying to work the instructions, and I am pretty handy with computers. I finally quit, and tried to follow the instructions to just quit, and when trying to restart, dead. I opened it again, rechecked everything, turned it on, and had a bad monitor picture (low resolution). Third time, rechecked everything again, and it worked, but the monitor now has a slight red shadow tint on one side of the monitor. So, never got the HDD installed, I'm returning it, and probably wind up buying a new Mac Mini. Be careful! And be willing to lose your computer, or pay to have it restored by a professional.

d3nn151950 - Réponse

A couple of general tips, based on my experience taking this thing apart twice in two days.

As noted above, the case is plastic, not metal, so you can strip out or misalign the screws if things aren't lined up, particularly the 8 T8s around the display. I used my T6 to align the ears on the display with the screw sockets by gently putting it down the adjacent hole and levering the display so the hole I was working with lined up. You only need to do this once on each side. Once one screw is seated, the others on that side should be lined up.

I was missing my extra pair of hands today so I had to reattach the inverter cables solo. I found it was easier from the top, which was made easy by the fact I was working on a table and could easily get around to the other side. Might just be a question of handedness (I'm a righty) or perhaps I'm just uncoordinated.

paul beard - Réponse

I took mine apart a second time to track down why the fan was constantly running at a high speed. I reseated the sensor cables, retaped the sensor to the hard drive, and it persisted. Then I ran the Apple Hardware Test (comes with it on DVD or might be installed) and it showed a bad sensor. I then went for the longer test, got tired waiting for it to complete, restarted, and the noise was gone. Maybe the test reset it? I did an SMC reset to be doubly sure and installed SSDFanControl in case it acts up again.

paul beard - Réponse

Your guides are excellent. I was able to resurrect my iMac hardware rather easily. The videos take the fear out of opening the sacred box. Getting the software to work was another thing. Very tedious but worth the effort.

Thanks,

Phillip Madonia - Réponse

I have just replaced the original hard drive in my iMac 2133 (320 GB) with a brand new 1TB hybrid disk from Seagate (ST1000DX001). I also replaced the PRAM battery.

The guide was very helpful and the replacement was not difficult.

markp - Réponse

Will the ST1000DX001 work in Early 2009 24" iMac Core 2 Duo? I just purchased one on Amazon and now I'm frantically searching to find out if it will be compatible :-/

Joshua Rountree -

This guide is not exactly precise for the iMac 24" MA878LL 7,1. There are some differences on the connections of the thermal sensors to the Hard Drive. I find it is not necessary to also disconnect the Thermal sensor from the board location only on the drive so as to move it to the new drive. Reassembly did not go well as far as the microphone cable connection. Whatever did not re-connect as expected did NOT result in a functioning internal microphone. The external input functions with a separate microphone, but the internal is dead. It could be software/driver malfunction or the fact that the tiny miniscule connections at the bezel are so delicate that it will no longer function, even after taking the bezel off 2 more times to insure the connection is correct and using electrical tape to keep the delicate connectors together. Wishing you better 'luck' than I had with this process.

xxx - Réponse

I was able to successfully install the new HD I purchased from ifixit.com however once I started up my computer and attempted to install my Apple OS10 Snow I was not able to choose the new HD for installation because my imac does not see the new HD. Any advice or help will be greatly appreciated.

Joe Raats - Réponse

This may be too late now, but look at the link at step 24 (OSX install guide). It tells you what to do.

Lisa Mac -

Thank you so much!!! I have used your site for other things like 3Ds, iPhone repair, etc. My computer broke, and I had no idea what was wrong with it, but I knew that once I could figure out the problem, I would be able to fix it. It took me a while to figure out what was wrong with my computer (I also just put it to the side and forgot about it). Thanks to your site I followed these instructions, paid $50 for a hard drive, and now it is working perfectly. I feel like I got a new computer for $50! Thanks so much. I will always be a devoted fan!! You have saved me tons of money over the years with the other items I have fixed. Thanks again!

Lisa Mac - Réponse

Great Guide! Worked perfectly. Installed an SSD, just used a full sized and strong 2.5inch to 3.5 inch converter. Works great - like a new computer!

FastFig Demo - Réponse

I found that after removing the screws holding the display, you can lift the top of the display and unhook the top to two connectors you can lift the display then prop it up and remove and replace the drive without disconnecting the lower items.

Ralph Lewis - Réponse

I concur comments about T6 on Step 8. I have a quality set of Torx bits and the T6 is much too small. The T7 fit perfectly. This isn't a matter of Apple using two different size screws in assembly. It is a matter of the Law of Tolerances, which those with machining experience would know about. I would amend the Tools Required and add T7 (in some instances).

David Larson - Réponse

Really great guide! I ordered the Pro tool kit from iFixit and it was worthy every penny, I just wish that I would've gotten it sooner.

bryanstepney - Réponse

I did it and it took me quite a while. However, this was exclusively because the SSD 2,5 to 3,5" bracket did not fit well. I spend a lot of time finding alternatives and even trying to get SATA extension cables.

In the end I decided to agree with anonymous on Sept 26 2012: a pivoting SSD is good enough. Now installing and everything is going fine.

Really happy with the instructions and tools that I bought from iFixit. Next up: 27" iMac, fitting a secondary drive in there is what I am up to. Yay!

Pim - Réponse

Careful - I followed this recipe very closely and my 2007 iMac is basically toast now. I posted the details here and according to the responses, it's most likely the graphics card. I don't see how I could have damaged that with this recipe but it worked before I opened the iMac and replaced the HDD and I can't get it (the iMac in general, I can't be certain it's the card) to work at all since.

iMac won't start after HDD replacement - no chime, black screen, DVD

rhubarb - Réponse

The HDD of my iMac crashed & needed to get it to a data recovery service. They said they only took the drives. A work colleague advised this site saying their instructions were straight forward & gave realistic expectations. I was surprised to find the tools required at my local hardware store. The steps were straight forward and I now have my data recovered. Thank you.

Paul Lukabyo - Réponse

As with any technical project, especially for first-timers like me (first time opening up a "laptop" type of technology like the iMac), a key ingredient is reading through the instructions once or twice before opening up the machine. You want to position yourself mentally before you position yourself physically! The instructions are great, one or two maybe superfluous in some cases. But in the end I have a 2008 iMac 20" with a 250 GB SSD (Toshiba) that performs many routine tasks better than my new iMac at work. I'm really happy with the results! Well worth the small amount of money and effort required.

Keith Gardner - Réponse

Great guide, easy to follow. But... I had an issue.

After reassembling my iMac, there was no display! Seemed to be running, but nothing on the display. After taking it apart and checking my connections, back together - still no display.

On closer observation, though, the display is on -- but the back light is not. By point a flashlight at the LCD, the desktop can be seen, but no backlight. I double checked the inverter cables, and they are hooked up properly.

I wonder if I damaged the LCD temperature sensor and this is causing the computer to turn off the backlighting, but this is just a guess.

Any ideas?

LITTLEMIRANDA - Réponse

Perfect instructions! Just did it today with a help of a friend on an old mid 2007 iMac, replaced the failing 320Gb with 1Tb Seagate. Thanks!

mishaikin - Réponse

Excellent Guide, I had a little hold up between step 4 and 5. The front bezel didn't seem to be budging, and I didn't want to force something that shouldn't be forced. I flipped the unit on it face ( putting cloth down first!) so I could see the seam. But as the other commenters add, do not pull apart fast and furious, so as to not break the microphone wire. With a little patience and perseverence, the bezel came apart nicely.

Brian Gill - Réponse

I just did this upgrade on my mid-2007 20" iMac. Not too difficult if you take your time. I replaced the 320GB HD with a Crucial MX100 256GB solid state drive. I used the Newer Technology AdaptaDrive 2.5" to 3.5" Drive Converter Bracket and it fit everything perfectly. I would recommend this upgrade for anyone willing to open this machine up. There is a huge difference. My startup time (in Yosemite) went from a minute and a half to thirty seconds. Launching apps is significantly faster. Very worth the time and money.

mattgauntt - Réponse

Guide and Video especially useful, i did not replace with regular HDD, but instead went for 128GB SSD. which since there is no way to secure a small SSD to the current HDD housing, i used sticky-tape to stick it in. Other then that the guides help alot, the key is to relax and be confident, as it looks more scary then it actually is. good luck..

Farid Mohd Ismail - Réponse

Perfect instructions. Thanks!

Jeffrey Green - Réponse

I also had difficulty installing a 2.5" SDD using a Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA hard drive to desktop 3.5" bay bracket. The cables inside the iMac are just long enough for the original 3.5" drive and not long enough to reach a 2.5" drive in this particular bracket. I had to settle with an SSD held into the bracket at an angle with two screws. Somewhat shameful, but it's not going anywhere anyway.

nickmalmquist - Réponse

First time I open a camputer ! And that was not so hard ! I had no problem, and changed my hard drive for a hybrid one.

Juste take it easy,

Thank you !

Cantou - Réponse

I actually swapped drives...with a mid-2007 20" and a mid-2011 21.5" iMac...the newer iMac runs rings around the older 20" speed-wise, but I fear that because the drive is not Western Digital like the original inside the 21.5", that's why the fans run pretty much non-stop now...I can put it to sleep, and the fans quit for a while, but eventually they start up again, and they can be fairly distracting in a quiet room...either have to replace the drive with one that has the internal temp sensor, or live with the fan noise...

fhussar - Réponse

I change the old hard disk in my iMac 2008, 20" to a new SSD and I can recommend to use this SSD frame http://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech... it's from MacSales, it's perfect for this job, and don't worry about the thermal sensor, just put it on the metal on the SSD and your iMac fan will NOT spine like crazy, but your old iMac will work faster, thats what I felt. :o)

Robert Celander - Réponse

Awesome, thanks! I followed these instructions as a total noob and was able to extract my data from my 'sleeping beauty' iMac. I've since followed another guide to replace the power supply and my iMac is good as new :)

Mumoth - Réponse

Fabulous guide!

Used this for my mid-2009 (EMC 2316) 20" iMac - upgraded to a Samsung 500 GB EVO SSD drive. *Just* finished: took about an hour and a half in toto. Just a couple suggestions:

- you'll have the case open: replace the 3V "button" battery while you're in there: it takes 30 seconds and it's done

- have a can of compressed air handy: you can use it to gently clean out the dust, which will have accumulated on the fan blades over time

- I used Carbon Copy Cloner to clone the HD->SSD drive; it worked almost flawlessly: Google Drive needed to be re-synced (easy). Don't forget to deactivate any software that will complain with a change of HD.

- keep in mind that the process is a bit tedious at times: do this when you are rested and have plenty of time; I propped up a laptop with the iFixIt page next to my iMac as I worked on it and this worked well

John Fisk - Réponse

It was great to have a guide to follow, though the instructions ended up being more detailed than necessary. You don't have to unplug all that stuff that is attached to the back of the LCD. The less unplugging the better. We merely unplugged the mic cable to remove the bezel, and the two cable in the top right corner (mark them with a sharpie!), then for the LCD you can carefully tilt the top edge up and brace it up (we used two pencils) like a car hood. Then you'll have just enough space to "get under the hood" and access the hard drive from the top area. You might need to be a little more careful so as not to bump any components, but it's worked better than unplugging. Went back together like a charm! Thanks for the intro though!

KHX - Réponse

I used the guide to replace a broken HD on a 20" 2008 iMac with a 2TB hard drive. The pictures, video, and all of the comments were very helpful. I purchased the tools and the new HD from ifixit. The comments helped to give me the best way to do the entire repair. Everything from wearing cotton gloves when handling the glass, which particular screws are longer, moving the temp sensor, not losing screws(magnetized the screwdriver), to using compressed air to clean the screen before re-assembly, helped to make the repair go flawlessly. I also upgraded the RAM to to 2GB in each slot. You can go up to 6 using a 4GB in the right slot, but 4 works for me. I upgraded to 10.7 Lion. Works like a charm.

Thanks to fixit!!

John Jewitt - Réponse

I have used this guide for the second time. Fantastic. Thanks.

Phillip Madonia - Réponse

Great directions! Thank you for the assistance. This is a very easy repair. No one should be worried, if you follow the directions. A few things. Don't rely on the Command + R or Command + Option+R to get your operating system back. Make a bootable usb and get a wired keyboard. It looks daunting, but with Drivemaker X, the drive is EASY to make and you won't go insane when your computer won't boot. Last thing. The mount makes a difference. I had to really mess with mine to make it work. The connectors don't line up and there isn't any "play" in the wiring at all. Again, do yourself a favor and make sure your adapter is correct before you start. That being said, the actual fix was easy and fun. Made a HUGE difference in speed. Don't need a new computer now. EVO drive is great!

peterwrose - Réponse

Great guide thanks.

two comments:

on my A1224 EMC 2210 it was T 10 (not T 8) and T 6: the T8 could work but it was loose.

Remark: the four screws at the bottom are longer is is important to mention. as well the screws for the display have a large edge the one on the panel are countersunk screws.

Lastly in addition to the tools I would have recommended an air duster, and since it is open it may be wise to replace the CR 2032.

tx again

Fred

fredgiac - Réponse

Fantastic guide. I'd never disassembled an imac before. My old early 2008 imac had become very sluggish. Now, with a 6GB memory and a new 480GB ssd bought from ifixit, it is thoroughly rejuvenated (I am typing on it now!) Two things I'd like to encourage: (1) don't forget to make a bootable usb or drive before you start. Just having a time-machine backup is not enough. I had long ago disposed of my lion startup disk, and was surprised to discover that I could not just restore from my time-machine backup. Fortunately, I had an old boot disk in Maverick, which was enough to get things going (albeit a bit convoluted) . (2) Perhaps the guide could add a few steps about the installation of an SSD into the frame that fits where the old hitachi hard drive was located. E.g - some pictures showing where to stick the thermal sensor (answer: directly on the top of the SSD). I wasn't able to find directions for this on the ifixit site. Highly recommend this upgrade.

coleman - Réponse

Where exactly on the ssd do I put the thermal detector thing? and will the fan be messed up now?

dan -

Done. Replaced an apple replaced HD(Factory fitted one died) turns out that the Apple "Genius" that fitted the last one pinched the microphone cable, not that it used.

I did somethings different I flipped the outer casing so there no need to disconnect the mic cable, and held the LCD tilted up with my head as i removed /replaced HD as i have no friends :(.

So now its fitted with a hybrid HD, Thank you Ifixit!

Paul keithley - Réponse

I want to buy a 1TB hard drive, you can help to makes and models of hard drives

Marthen - Réponse

Didn't have a T6 driver, but was able to complete the job without it by carefully lifting and holding the screen. Put a 320 GB HDD in an old 2007 model that the stock 250 GB HDD crapped on. Using a USB installer created with the "createinstallmedia" method from a working 2008 iMac running El Capitan, I am currently sitting looking at a screen saying "preparing to install." This method works!

Travis Hayes - Réponse

Splendid, my 2008 now has two TB's to play with. I loved the quick tutorial post followed by the detailed instructions. The young lady was so clever and well suited for the camera. The instructions were spot on. The pictures were well done and the wording clear and concise. I haven't seen such professional help on the internet as this.

Thank You!

Mellany Cheung - Réponse

you can install a hard disk ssd?

salvo_25 - Réponse

This guide is missing a crucial step between 5 & 6: removing the aluminium case. This step is included in a similar guide, for the newer model.

See Installation d'un SSD dans l'iMac Intel 20" EMC 2266 - step 5.

with kind regards

Jonathan

Jonathan DB - Réponse

Great guide thanks. But is it possible to add a new step to explain that is necessary to format the new drive before replacing it.

Tim - Réponse

If you are planning on installing a "clean" SSD (or HDD), which means the new hard drive has nothing on it (straight out of the box), then you need to make a bootable USB image on a flashdrive with the El Capitan Installer. Instructions for that: https://www.lifewire.com/create-bootable....

This was the only glitch with my upgrade of my early 2008 20" iMac's HDD to SSD. (No complaints about the actual ifixit guide. On it as usual!)

Alexander Davis - Réponse

Great Step By Step Video.. Very Thorough ... Just need help with one thing... I replaced the 320 gb orginal hard drive to a 500gb, now the Mac 2133 is not showing me anything but the question mark folder/ or just the cursor... PLEASE HELP!

JOEY RAMOS - Réponse

You will see that until the drive is formatted. Do you have an installer disk? You may be able to slide by if you can get to your recovery partition. Try holding down [Command] + [R] to get to that. You'll probably need someone to send you an El Capitan [.app] file. Shoot me an email at billyk650@gmail.com if you need that, since I'm pretty sure the App Store no longer allows you to download it if your device is running OS X Sierra.

William Kleinhomer -

Added a 1TB SSD. I half *ssed putting the hard drive in though. I didn't have a 2.5" to 3.5" mount, so it is just hot glued to the back of the case LOL

William Kleinhomer - Réponse

Instructions, photos, and videos were SO helpful! I feel like a pro!

Jane Pearson - Réponse

You guys & gals are awesome. Keep up the excellent work helping us small guys out in the field. Thanks!!!

Jeff - Réponse

I bough a hard drive from this site http://17oxen.com/best-external-hard-dri... upon the request of someone but all wasted, now i am looking for a best and cheaper drive.

Quotes pleasure - Réponse

Decent enough guide if you're careful and somewhat familiar with computer hardware. Only issue I came across was the Orico caddy for my SSD wouldn't take the screws from the old HDD. So for the latch part, I cut off the rubber grommets so I could use the screws that came with it. An SSD isn't mechanical therefore they aren't required. The pegs on the other side were a different matter, so I just left them off. You can get the latch part to engage just to enough to keep it in place. The SSD is lighter and smaller, so with a bit of luck it should stay put. I may address this when I go back in to swap the optical drive for a secondary HDD. Just not sure how…

Neil Moriarty - Réponse

I don’t claim to be a computer expert. The opposite is probably true. I needed to remove the hard drive from my iMac intel computer before I disposed of the computer. Following your fantastic step by step instructions, even I looked like I knew what I was doing. Everything went smoothly. The hard drive is now removed. Thank you for saving me from looking like a frustrated computer idiot!

Michael - Réponse

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