Introduction

Utilisez ce guide pour remplacer l'antenne supérieure de votre iPhone.

Avant de commencer, déchargez la batterie de votre iPhone en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et/ou exploser si elle est perforée accidentellement.
  • Avant de commencer, déchargez la batterie de votre iPhone en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium-ion chargée peut prendre feu et/ou exploser si elle est perforée accidentellement.

  • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer le démontage.

  • Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe P2 de 3,6 mm à côté du connecteur de dock.

    • Assurez-vous que le tournevis a bonne prise lorsque vous retirez les vis Pentalobe, car elles s'abîment très facilement.

  • Lors du remontage, nous vous conseillons de remplacer les vis 5 points par des vis cruciformes équivalentes. Notre Liberation Kit vous fournit les outils et vis nécessaires pour remplacer les vis Pentalobe par des vis cruciformes.

The Liberation Kit just stripped the screw. Now what.

nimpsy - Réponse

Had local iPhone repair shop remove the screw. Repair complete!

nimpsy -

I left the battery in and everything above the middle, using a pen knife to flex the logic board, I had plenty of room to else the old out and the new in.

Worked well and saved a lot of time.

Keith M - Réponse

After reviewing the steps I decided to follow this guy's advice and left the battery in.....one less item to possibly foul up. I don't know if it made it any faster (first time to open my phone, so nothing to compare it to) but I can say that my phone is charging for the first time in 6 months :D

Jennifer -

BEFORE YOU START:

1) This is doable but not easy, quick or without risk.

2) If this is your 1st time, the whole process can take >2 hours (half of it reading this fixit manual and notes, which I highly recommend!)

3) I highly recommend placing a large, thin clean white cloth on the table. This prevents screws from rolling around and you will clearly see anything falling out.

4) If you have them, use tight surgical (latex) gloves. This prevents you from greasing up contacts.

5) Have e.g. a big old egg box ready, so you can place the screws in order (and maybe write step/screw size on the side).

6) I bought my display from "Generic" on Amazon ($20.36). Screen works fine and tools were ok but not great (screw drivers do not withstand force needed to unscrew some).

7) I had my own 2mm Phillips screw driver and a 2.4mm flat (for the big screws).

8) Have a nice cold beer by your side! Good luck!

superedu111 - Réponse

Sounds like this comment relates to a screen replacement, not a rear panel replacement. No way a rear panel replacement would take 2 hours - can be done in 2 minutes!

Jonathan Deamer -

I was paranoid about stripping the pentalobes - I used the ifixit pentalobe screwdriver TOGETHER with a layer of Glad Wrap (cling film or saran wrap for the non-Aussies) over the pentalobe holes - absolutely no problems. Guess it helps the driver head gain purchase?

Anyway hat tip to this guy:

http://modmyi.com/forums/hardware/806092...

jimforbes - Réponse

It's also called glad wrap in the US as well. :)

Scorppio500 Webmaster -

After seeing the comments about trouble finding the carrier, I shut down the phone, did a soft reset (by holding the power and home buttons until it started and then shut down and stayed off), and removed the SIM. After the repair, I replaced the SIM and plugged it in to the charger. It started up and found the carrier (Verizon, as it happens) immediately. I would guess that only the soft reset made a difference, but I did both.

DavidLewis - Réponse

Thank you David, will I need to reload operating system if I replace thr logic board? I'm hoping to use a 32gb boards from a locked but working phone to place in my 8gb device. Thanks for your advice,

Sharif

Sharif Bagnulo -

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Réponse

Here's a little vacuum trick for anything small: put nylons/panty hose over the end of the hose and then you don't have to dig thru the bag contents.

paul -

Marv you a first class pleb! Please don't try and fix anything again. Tool

ticklejahfancy -

It's clear who's at fault here, Marv.

It's as clear as the day has long legs. It's your Mom's fault.

Milfs who make earth-tone carpet choices, are more likely to twerk, than tweek.

And as far as trimmin the hedges are concerned, she's more likely to float a turd in the punchbowl,

than to give you your inch.

I know you think I'm crazy. But everyone else agrees. We all politely try to the other way...

Your cuck stops here. We'll not near me, go over there...

Nathan Brazil -

my screws are stipped and i am going though the front glass to get to the logic board could some one give me a guide on how to get to the board please... thanks

Caleb Croft - Réponse

all you need to do is remove the clip over the wifi antenna and the one that actually attaches the wifi antenna to the iphone two steps to do this job...

Ray Leahy - Réponse

The physical battery replacement went off without a hitch, and saw that the phone had no network connection, but also had no way to unlock. The slide lock said "Slide for Emergency Call" over my custom wallpaper and sliding would give the passcode screen, but it would reject the 6 digit passcode (it would buzz and go dark after the 4th digit, re-awakening and putting in the last 2 would indicate bad passcode). Very frustrating! I get it into recovery mode and convinced iTunes to "update" the OS, but it still didn't let me in. I performed a restore to fully factory reset the phone, and it worked! Sort of... the start screen kept being replaced by "Temperature - phone needs to cool down" but it's cold. Temp sensor is on the battery and returning to old battery fixed it. New battery is bad, and phone is wiped. Fun night.

I'm going to guess that disabling the password might save you from a similar fate. So, I'll suggest BEFORE YOU START, backup your phone and disable the passcode. Good luck.

Ian Epperson - Réponse

Same here.. Going through that terrible night myself! Guess you had to return your battery right?

Nuno Alves -

Is it possible to replace front glass only? If so, please provide a manuel

Iva - Réponse

Yes, it is. But it's very difficult and risky. Forget it... Have a look here: https://youtu.be/L_kCY05jR10

Jiri Altman -

I didn’t find this particularly difficult, even though I’m pretty inexperienced at this sort of work. I watched the video overview to get me going and then followed the steps in the guide. My tips would be to keep the screws and parts organised as you dismantle, and ensure you read all the reassembly tips as you go; it’s easy to skip over them. I also found using the Liberty Kit to replace the pentalobe screws was worthwhile.

Poor old Marv of Feb 2015. Suggest he sticks to chopping logs.

graemebagnall - Réponse

Poussez le panneau arrière vers le bord supérieur de l'iPhone. Le panneau va se déplacer d'environ 2 mm.
  • Poussez le panneau arrière vers le bord supérieur de l'iPhone.

  • Le panneau va se déplacer d'environ 2 mm.

how can i take out the screw if it is stripped

Manny Chaidez - Réponse

with a small driller, but I guess it is very difficult. Never attempted that myself on an iPhone.

lantzero -

There is no screw in Step 2?

Is the screw stripped or the head stripped?

I have used superglue on the screwdriver to remove a stripped screw, it would turn but not come out, with superglue I could turn and pull the screw out. May also work on a stripped head.

Trevor -

If you are careful, use a Dremel tool and a micro drill bit (sold where Dremel tools are purchased) to drill it out. Last resort kind of thing, good luck.

Jack - Réponse

Why isn't it moving? I removed my screws.

Thomas The Train - Réponse

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Réponse

I didn't see any extra screws holding the back in place. I had to use the included pry tool to get the back off. Just start at the bottom and pry gently...if you just "pull" like the guide says it won't work.

Brian - Réponse

Don't use too much force to slide the back -- the back on my phone was hard to slide, and I bent and broke a silver metal contact tab at the top of the back (on the inside).

perryskeath - Réponse

Super easy fix. Thanks for the tutorial!

Terrence Carlson - Réponse

Those little screwdrivers are easy to mix up, for those of us without ultra-perfect vision! Once I used the correct screwdriver, and my 13yo son's little fingers and perfect eyes, it went smoothly! Also my son noticed that the rubber piece around the camera len was covering the camera; it likely slid out of place when sliding off the back cover. A little playing around (with plastic tools only!) and it looks perfect now!

ashleedawg - Réponse

sorry but the rear panel is not pushed up. I pulled out the screws in the step 1 but still the rear panel does not move with even when I push it strongly.

Doo Re Song - Réponse

Retirez le panneau arrière de l'iPhone, en veillant à ne pas endommager les clips en plastique attachés au panneau arrière.
  • Retirez le panneau arrière de l'iPhone, en veillant à ne pas endommager les clips en plastique attachés au panneau arrière.

  • Enlevez le panneau arrière de l'iPhone.

On reassembly, be sure to clean the metal plate at the place of contact with the tiny pressure contact mentioned in step 4.

Harald Brandt - Réponse

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

Marv - Réponse

The replacement panel I got had two sheets of protective plastic on the inside and one on the outside. I used a toothpick to carefully lift and peel the two inside sheets off. One small one was over the lens on the inside. The other was over some large brown sheet of unknown function (though I think it goes over the battery). When I peel that away, some of the brown material tried to lift of with it, so be very careful.

dhein - Réponse

From this point go to step ?? Just peel off the tape from the chip. Take some aluminium foil and cut a hole the size of the chip (Use a second layer of foil if you don't thrust it). Heat the chip as described at temperature 300 deg C for 5 minutes. Let it cool down. Reassemble and ..... hura WIFI is on again.

Lucasa Clearman - Réponse

Enlevez les vis suivantes qui maintiennent le connecteur de la batterie à la carte mère:
  • Enlevez les vis suivantes qui maintiennent le connecteur de la batterie à la carte mère:

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 1,7 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 1,5 mm.

On my phone at least, there is a small gold and black part held down under the top screw. It goes black side up with the pressure contact touching the back of the phone when the cover is in place. Keep an eye out for correct orientation as you dismantle.

James Molyneux - Réponse

We have edited this step and expanded upon it. Hopefully that will mitigate the confusion surrounding it. Sorry about all the trouble it has caused!

Arthur Shi -

I also had a small black and gold connector held down by the top screw on this step.

Kevin Keenan - Réponse

While the text refers to the pressure contact, the pictures do not show it clearly. The closet one that does has the yellow circle covering much of it. I was not sure if it was under or on top of the cover when re-installing. It's under.

gregsrow - Réponse

This step needs a few more caveats.

The bottom screw on my phone was locked with some thread adhesive, and required more force to loosen it than I expected.

Even after removing the screws, the battery connector was rather firmly seated, and required a fair bit of persistent gentle prying with the opening tool before it came loose.

The ground clip came loose and nearly flew off while loosening the connector, so it would really help people if there were a warning on this step to watch out for the ground clip and make sure it doesn't bounce away.

threephi - Réponse

I had the same problem with the ground clip! I’m glad that I didn't for it.

iScott -

Despite putting a large amount of pressure on the screw I can't get the blades of the 00 to take. Has anyone tried with a 000 and does it work better?

abeardsa - Réponse

The 00 didn't work much for me but I had more success with a Phillips #0

DMcG -

I find the #00 doesn't work either. I use the #000 and it works better for me.

Keith -

The battery connector is attached to the battery. You're not going to completely lift it out and remove it. It pulls out from the socket you can see in step 5 picture 3. The pressure contact (little black and gold thing) will probably just slide out from under the connector. Not a problem.

DMcG - Réponse

Which screwdriver works best then. I got the #00 philips from ifixit. I agree - it strips the screw and does not work. I don't recommend it.

I am now trying to buy another screwdriver - but which one. #0 or #000. Anyone done this. Please help!

andrepoon - Réponse

I lost the screws securing the battery connector to the logic board, what happens when I turn on my iphone without securing screws, as shown in step 4, please solution. thank you

Afriyadi - Réponse

The iFixit screwdriver that is recommended and provided will strip the screws here. HOLD OFF. I bought a ph000 screwdriver off the internet. Worked fine. Don't be tempted to proceed with the ph00 from iFixit. IT WILL STRIP!!

andrepoon - Réponse

seconded. after shipping (to spain, plus surprise import taxes) and nearly $100, the 1.7 mm screw would not budge and ended up stripped. uncool.

jejerez -

I completed this repair without removing the battery. I think the guide should be edited to note that battery removal is not necessary.

M C - Réponse

A little late to ask but how did you do this without taking the battery out? My screws are a pain to get out and if there is a better way of doing this then I'd like to try.

josephcon1998 -

I completed this successfully, but this step gave me the most trouble. The pressure contact is really difficult to reseat. So much so that it should probably be called out more clearly in it's own step.

Greg Fulco - Réponse

If your pressure contact pops out you might find the video at http://www.hightechdad.com/2013/05/07/ho... helpful

Martin Cleaver - Réponse

I found this link to be incredibly helpful in identifying how/ where to put the pressure contact back in place

Elizabeth Harris -

When reinstalling the position of pressure contact must be explained better! It took me about 5 min to understand how it fit!

Jorge - Réponse

In french: attention avant de retirer le contacteur de la batterie. La vis du haut tient "en sandwich" une petite pièce métallique noire et dorée. Cette pièce a pour but de faire contact de masse avec le dos de l'iphone quand il est refermé. Donc il ne faut pas la tordre. Quand les deux vis du contacteur sont retirée, attention au moment de débrancher le contacteur: cela va faire bouger cette pièce qui ne doit pas être abîmée ni tordue. Au remontage, il faut bien la remettre en place sous le contacteur de batterie: il est tout à fait possible de mettre d'abord le contacteur, puis de glisser la petite pièce au dessous pour qu'elle soit bien à sa place, le trou en face du trou de vis et du trou du contacteur. En remettant la vis, la pièce tient bien en place. Elle doit bien continuer à dépasser de manière a faire contact avec le dos de l'iphone.

stephane lecreux - Réponse

Top screw didn’t move with iFixit Philips #000 driver. The metal is too soft and in the result the screw was damaged while still in place. Having nothing to lose I also tried #00 and #0. Any way to remove the stuck screw? I would gladly saw it off if I could.

viktorcode - Réponse

Ok, I had to drill the screw to break it. It was very delicate and time consuming operation. But in the end the screw cap finally broke off and I was able to remove the battery!

viktorcode -

The Liberation Kit Philips head screwdriver strips the battery connector screws! It stripped the ne 1.7 mm Phillips screw circled in red in the photo above. I was able to remove the other screw, then I lifted the battery connector off while the red screw was still in position and wound the connector around in circles while lifting upwards and managed to unscrew the stripped screw. Advice, find a decent philips heard screwdriver for the internal screws like the two found on the battery connector.

remsta - Réponse

Bottom screw was totally stuck, nothing could budge it. I removed top screw, heated up battery with hair dryer to release the glue, pulled it out using the spudger. Lifted up the metal plate thing (after taking out the ground piece and putting it aside). Cut off the flexible bit between the plate and the battery and twisted the plate around the screw as you did.

Well, the screw eventually came out—but only the top half! Yes, it split in two. Then the bottom half came out, still attached to the thing it was screwed in to (a sort of barrel).

I put the new battery in, put the bottom half (with the barrel) of lower screw back in its original position, replaced the ground piece and positioned the new plate over it, and screwed the top screw back in. Then put the top half of the lower screw in and tightened it.

Et voila!

Extra: It was helpful to discover that the 1.5 and 1.7 mm measurements refer to length of screw, not size of Phillips head.

Claudia Baragiola -

When reassembling, use EST tweezers to get align the pressure contact over the top screw hole. using the pointy end of a spudger to assist: put the point through top screw-hole on the battery connector, then through the pressure contact and into the screw-hole. this will help to keep the small piece in place while re-seating the battery connector. Leave the top hole spiked as such until the screw in the bottom hole is gently fastened. Remove the spudger and replace the top screw.

tallismanproductions - Réponse

Pressure contact needs to be remain EXACTLY in the same position if you remove/replace battery. I had to re-open my iPhone 4S after a battery replacement (the mobile connectivity was lost) and tweak the position of the Pressure to restore functionality.

Peter Schoeman - Réponse

Why do I have to remove the battery for disassembling the rear camera? Any idea?

Andreas Suck - Réponse

Hi, I have a problem with that small piece which connect gsm antenna with the back cover. I missed that part and have a weak signal gsm, so I buy it and now when I put it there the Iphone wont turn on when the back cover is puted on. I know that somewhere is short-circuit but dont know how to solve it. Sorry for my english.

jurajtomecek7 - Réponse

I used my 16x magnifier loupe to be certain I had the pressure sensor aligned with the screw hole - no problem, no stripping. I consider it indispensable for tricky steps like this, and IFixit sells a similar tool for just $14.

Jen Morris - Réponse

The pressure connector is the battery connector under the silver plate. BE CAREFUL. It seems like it'd be really easy to tear that pressure connector out without meaning to. The bronze and black thing is the ground, *not* the pressure connector. If you remove it just keep track of it and re-install it.

Brian - Réponse

this help me a lot, i just don't know how to fix it(bought it from http://www.laimarket.com/red-replacement...)

Dean - Réponse

The phillips head screwdriver provided in the ifixit repair kit does not work well this these two screws after my first attempt at unscrewing the screws became stripped. The 1.7 mm phillips screw gave me the most trouble. It took an hour to unscrew after the screwdriver from the kit stripped the screw. I used a piece of masking tape over the screw for grip to loosen it, then used finger nail clippers as pliers to unscrew. I would recommend investing in a better screwdriver for this one step. Assembly is otherwise simple and easy.

teeteebaby5 - Réponse

Here's a tip if you're having trouble removing the 1.7 mm screw. I had real problems removing it – the 1.5 mm screw came out easily using a Phillips #000 screwdriver but I almost stripped the 1.7 mm screw using the same screwdriver. What I did instead was use a flathead screwdriver from the iFixit pro tech toolkit I got, the one with a "–" sign and 1.0 size. That worked perfectly!

Lars - Réponse

There's only one Philips screwdriver with the kit but it failed to unscrew the top 1.7mm one off the connector unfortunately. Is the kit supposed to come with both the 1.7 and 1.5mm Philips screwdrivers?

yanchou - Réponse

When disconnecting the battery make sure to use a plastic tool not a metal tool that could short out the battery

Ethan Chow - Réponse

I did not manage to get the screws out with a Phillips #000 Screwdriver; I used instead the J1000 head of the all-new pro tech toolkit

Jean Wallemacq - Réponse

I would agree that a decent magnifier would help as the screws and components are small.

Also take necessary precautions to ensure the screws are not lost or mixed up.

Other than being a bit fiddly (particularly the earth connector), the only challenge I had not covered was that the battery was fixed with glue close to where the connector is and despite releasing the battery along the side, I couldn't get the battery to lift out using the tab. In the end I had to use the plastic tools to gently lever the battery away, working from the outside edge and ensuring I wasn't levering against the volume control buttons.

The new battery is in and following the advise given, I hard reset the phone and all my usual functions are now running... and if this £18:00 fix gives the phone another year or two of use, it will be well worth the effort.

Dave Mann - Réponse

When i replaced my battery then my i phone4s suddenly diseabled to 4million hours or sonething big like that....So at the end i had to go for a flash..when it was updating in the middle there has been a error so my logo comes CONNECT TO ITUNES...so what can i do guzs????

ALBURT - Réponse

Vous dites "Le connecteur de batterie s'enlève verticalement de la carte mère. Ne forcez pas latéralement"

Ou placez vous la verticalité ? pour moi c'est connecteur d'alimentation en bas, bouton d'alimentation en haut ?

Parce ce que sur la photo suivante, vous enlevez le connecteur de la gauche vers la droite ... c'est à dire latéralement ...

Soit nous n'avons pas le même sens vertical / horizontal, soit il y a un GROS problème dans l'explication, ou dans la traduction.

En tout cas, à la lecture de votre explication, j'ai essayé d'enlever le connecteur vers le haut !!

Donc il m'est maintenant impossible de remettre la batterie neuve, le connecteur est cassé !!!

Bravo pour l'expertise ifixit :(

Appoline - Réponse

I've gone through this process twice now. I found this video also very helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYYdbk3U...

The little contact thing that sits under top screw is always the biggest hassle to fit back into place (I do it after attaching the battery cable) with tweezers from ifixit.

My personal tips:

- plan that the incredibly tiny screws or the top-screw contact thing, might get away from you. so work in a space where you can find them easily. Not over carpet, etc.

- I use strips of tape on a piece of paper to secure the screws while they are out, and position them so I know which one goes on top of battery connector, and the one on bottom.

- If you have access to a spouse's/mate's iphone, in Accessibility settings there's a Magnifier option (triple-click home button) which does an amazing job at magnifying stuff at a circa 4-6" distance. Lacking any good magnifying glasses, this feature helped a lot. https://www.imore.com/how-use-magnifier-...

Wayne Walrath - Réponse

Why the guide don't mention PH000 or PH00 instead of Phillip 1.7 mm / 1.5 mm? I didn't know it is PH000 until some comments here save my time. Thanks guys

wanhor - Réponse

We have edited this step and expanded upon it. Hopefully that will mitigate the confusion surrounding it. Sorry about all the trouble it has caused!

Arthur Shi - Réponse

Éloignez délicatement le contact à pression du connecteur de la batterie jusqu'à ce qu'il se dégage de sa position. Retirez le contact à pression. Retirez le contact à pression.
  • Éloignez délicatement le contact à pression du connecteur de la batterie jusqu'à ce qu'il se dégage de sa position.

  • Retirez le contact à pression.

Ajouter un commentaire

Utilisez un outil en plastique pour retirer délicatement le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère. Placez la pointe de l'outil entre  l'emplacement du haut-parleur et le cache du connecteur et soulevez d'abord le côté inférieur du connecteur. Le connecteur de la batterie s'enlève verticalement de la carte mère.  Ne forcez pas latéralement.
  • Utilisez un outil en plastique pour retirer délicatement le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Placez la pointe de l'outil entre l'emplacement du haut-parleur et le cache du connecteur et soulevez d'abord le côté inférieur du connecteur.

  • Le connecteur de la batterie s'enlève verticalement de la carte mère. Ne forcez pas latéralement.

  • Veillez à ne pas faire levier sur la prise même du connecteur de la batterie, car elle pourrait se détacher. Il y a quatre très petits points de soudure qui n'attendent que cette erreur !

If I did accidentally remove the pressure contact point from the logic board...what do I do?

Samuel Z - Réponse

I also did this. Not sure what its for? My phone appears to be fine now without it.

Ian Booth -

We have edited this step and expanded upon it. Hopefully that will mitigate the confusion surrounding it. Sorry about all the trouble it has caused!

Arthur Shi -

This picture needs to be greatly enlarged! The pressure plate sits directly underneath the battery connector, but cannot be seen here. It is also flat but about half the size of the battery connector, so you won't know you've ripped it up until you have! Picture two slices of bread but not the same size, stuck together.

S Byers - Réponse

What if you pop off that pressure contact point?? What is its function? Is it impossible to re-attach?

Ian Booth - Réponse

No idea what exactly this step means. I just pulled the battery connector without trying to move the pressure contact. Installed new battery, plugged in connector and aligned the pressure contact slightly for the screw to fit.

Got a big scare as the phone would not connect to the cell network at first boot, only WiFi. Shut it off and when it rebooted it seemed to work. WIll probably know in a day or so if everything works fine or if there are interference issues, etc.

andries - Réponse

This is normal ... removing the battery resets internal clock to start value and your provider doesn't accept that, hence no network.

Going online through wifi or manually setting date right corrects this after a reboot.

Dreetn -

I also accidentally removed the pressure contact. I put it back in place as best I could during reassembly and so far haven't ran into any problems.

Maynard Stevens - Réponse

The black & copper contact piece is missing from my iPhone. Does that explain why my phone won't restore and keeps re-booting? I have tried every kind of restore with no luck. Any ideas?

ozarkana - Réponse

After reassembling the iPhone I the GSM connection wasn't working. After cleaning all parts with isopropyl alcohol it still didn't work. What solved my problem was to turn on WiFi and then synchronizing the date and time which was set to 1970-01-01. After a reboot everything worked just fine. :)

Florian - Réponse

I had the same problem. Thanks for the solution!!

Manolis Mylonakis -

thanks for this!

Bill McNamara -

The black ground contact needs still more "flagging." This is a simple metal strip that is attached ONLY by the 1.5mm (upper) screw. It will help if you look at it before you remove the upper screw. Notice the gold contact arm and point. That contact point must be in a plane above every other surface inside the device when you replace the battery connector, because it makes a ground contact with the metallic inner surface of the device back plate.

When I replaced it, I used the Pentalobe driver to line up battery connector and ground contact with the screw socket post. I then attached the 1.7mm (lower) screw loosely, removed the Pentalobe driver gently, and inserted the 1.5mm (upper) screw into the assembly. There is a tab on the ground contact that helps it align properly once pressure begins to applied. I completed driving the upper screw, pressing lightly with the spudger on the battery connector plate to make sure it was seated on the pressure contacts. Finally, I completed driving the lower screw.

Matt McCaffrey - Réponse

This is a hard step because the directions and pictures are not very clear. This might help:

1) Here you HAVE TO disconnect the battery connecter (the language is confusing).

2) This is easier than it looks, as you can simply lift the connector upwards from any angle (I rested my plastic tool on the antenna and gently lifted it up).

The photo suggests you have to pull the connector backwards (which would be hard), this is not true, it can be lifted up towards you (the pins go out backwards and upwards, you'll see).

Finally, don't confuse the "pressure contact" with the "pressure contact point". You remove the contact, the contact point (underneath) sits on the board. No need to worry about this.

superedu111 - Réponse

Very ambiguous instructions for amateurs like me. eg. "pressure contact" & "pressure contact point". Some labelling in the photos would be a great help.

Stephen Shaw - Réponse

Wish the instructions had the warnings about the pressure contact before getting started. I removed it from the logic board because the warning was after the instructions. I managed to get it back in place and reassemble the phone. Nothing happened when I turned it on. Here I wrongly assumed the battery came pre-charged but it wasn't. I decided to plug it in to recharge it and was elated to see the empty battery symbol. I'm sending this from the phone!

jfksdca - Réponse

I didn't find any need to remove the pressure contact. I just pried the battery connector up (gently) with a spudger and left the pressure contact in place. Connected the new battery and aligned the pressure contact screw hole. Replaced the screws, finished reassembly and all was good.

Roger Mercer - Réponse

After reassembly, the CELL CONNECTION WASN'T WORKING. You might need to slightly bend the contact in step 5 up just a little, so it will make contact with the metal back plate. Did that and it worked perfectly.

Great kit, great instructions, thanks!

AirPhonesApp - Réponse

all those teeny screws...and the world is so...well...BIG!

go slow and put those parts INTO something...

putting them "on" something will just cause heartache and and an infected bladder...

°¿°

after a lot of froofroo and very errant iphone behaviour problems, i concluded that that tiny grounding piece must be being lazy as hello. i spread it out a bit to ensure a better contact with the back plate and everything appears to be working smoothly.

did this repair, as well as the battery replacement...GTG!!!

spoke too soon, i 'spect...random reboots persist.

richard - Réponse

Just went through the replacement and the battery "plug" (step 5) on my replacement battery was slightly misaligned relative to the metal plate used to screw it onto the board. The plastic and "gold" "plug" was slightly askew on the metal plate, which meant that when the plug was inserted, the screw holes (step 4) were poorly aligned.

I managed to pull everything back into line using the screws, but the QC on these replacement batteries is a bit suspect.

cvdwl - Réponse

Guess what happens when you rotate that ground connector 180 degrees...it grounds what I deduced to be the heat sink of the power amplifier for the speaker! So it is silent. It took me a couple of attempts to discover this as I was distracted by the new speaker not sitting down properly and a little dot of stuff under the main connector stuck to the pins. The latter was cleaned-off with a pin under 5x magnification followed by some isopropyl alcohol.

I suggest that Step 5 is more explicit about the orientation of this ground connector. It's only obvious after a really close look and if one has a lot to do like I did, it's a long time before one comes back to this step so the correct orientation is not obvious.

Michael Scollay - Réponse

If you magnify picture 4 or picture 5 twice, you can view the ground clip under the blue tool. You need to reinstall the ground clip with the copper color prong facing "up." I believe the ground clip is what many are calling the "pressure contact point" because the copper prong of the ground clip does indeed have pressure asserted to it when it contacts the back cover of the iPhone 4s.

Richard Riddle - Réponse

I accidentally removed the pressure contact and I was not able to put it back in place and so far haven't ran into any problems. Is this safe??

Vasu Reddy - Réponse

I did it als well. All Funktionen well.but i am Not sure if that reduce battery power? Thanks very much for information

Lupus - Réponse

The hole in the pressure contact aligns with the top screw. The IFIXIT tool kit I bought contained a black sharp “thing” that I used to align the pressure contact with the top screw hole. I used this tool to align the bottom screw hole also. I put the bottom screw in first but did not tighten it all the way. A good magnifying glass with a light helped a lot. Tim

Tim - Réponse

Aligning with the black pointy “thing” definitely helps. Also, the small copper end of the contact piece is supposed to stick up once attached, to make contact with the back plate of the phone after re-assembly. The piece slides under the silver metal plate, and the the pointer can be used to align the silver plate hole and the black/copper plate hole in place for the screw.

Rog - Réponse

We have edited this step and expanded upon it. Hopefully that will mitigate the confusion surrounding it. Sorry about all the trouble it has caused!

Arthur Shi - Réponse

Avant de réinstaller le connecteur de la batterie lors du remontage, positionnez soigneusement le contact à pression à sa place. Assurez-vous de nettoyer le contact à pression avec un dégraissant comme du Windex ou de l'alcool isopropylique. Le sébum sur vos doigts peut en effet provoquer de graves interférences.
  • Avant de réinstaller le connecteur de la batterie lors du remontage, positionnez soigneusement le contact à pression à sa place.

    • Assurez-vous de nettoyer le contact à pression avec un dégraissant comme du Windex ou de l'alcool isopropylique. Le sébum sur vos doigts peut en effet provoquer de graves interférences.

Ajouter un commentaire

Insérez un outil en plastique entre la batterie et le châssis extérieur près du bord inférieur de l'iPhone. Glissez l'outil en plastique le long du bord droit de la batterie et faites levier à plusieurs endroits pour la décoller complètement de l'adhésif qui la fixe au châssis extérieur.
  • Insérez un outil en plastique entre la batterie et le châssis extérieur près du bord inférieur de l'iPhone.

  • Glissez l'outil en plastique le long du bord droit de la batterie et faites levier à plusieurs endroits pour la décoller complètement de l'adhésif qui la fixe au châssis extérieur.

This can be very tricky because sometimes theres just too many glue on the back of the battery, and eventually the battery will be deformed.

Carlos Lopes - Réponse

Yes, there did seem to be a lot of glue holding my battery in. At first I was afraid of breaking it, but after reading up on the subject I've learned that it is okay if the battery gets a little deformed. Due to the nature of the battery it will still work if slightly deformed.

djlogic26 - Réponse

I found the plastic pull tab to be useless. Peeled pretty much the whole battery out from the left side. Used a probe to "break" a few strands of glue to help. Just watch the connector and ribbon cable in the lower left corner as you pry up so you don't crimp them or damage them.

gregsrow - Réponse

DO NOT remove the battery unless absolutely necessary. If the battery is removed from the phone, DO NOT reuse it, ifixit does not seem to understand the importance of safely handling the battery

Tom Chai - Réponse

Tom you have never been so wrong. Removing the battery is the FIRST step ANYONE should do before repairing or attempting repairs on their phone. The iPhone has many different grounding points in the phone and having electrical current running to it poses a massive risk, especially with ESD (ElectroStatic Discharge). People, PLEASE make sure you remove your phone's battery FIRST before doing any repairs. Use a plastic, not metal, spudger, after unhooking the battery from the logic board, place the spudger along the right side of the battery NOT under the volume buttons, about an inch and a half lower (two roughly if a sim card is present) and start prying it up using the frame as the fulcrum, as you start to lift the battery from the adhesive make sure you slide the spudger farther under to get even contact so you do not damage the battery.

Prestige Computer Solutions -

Try a used plastic credit/gift card to apply gentle pressure to lift the battery out of the phone, the short edge of the card fits within the gap on the logic board side between the battery and video cables. You can also use it on the opposite side if there is room between the battery and iPhone frame. This has worked on all of the 4 and 4s models I've replaced screens on.

I offer an alternative image if interested.

Wallace Karraker - Réponse

Hello! My clients iphone 4s:n battery connector broke, when i tried accidentally take the battery out with a plastic tool from the wrong side.

Connector detached completely, so that the two middle ironcensors came with it and was stuck to the connector. When i screw the whole connector back to phone, it works with battery power, but the batterys downloading doesnt work. Are these two middle censors that are stuck in the connector exactly the ones that should be charging the battery? Do you know how i can fix this? I have already bought electrical conductor glue, but should the parts be cleaned somehow first? And how can i fix it, when the center metal sensors on the system board is also attached to the battery?

How can i clean out thiskind of part with windex? I have purchased almost all of the possible tools from iFixit and the electrical conductor glue i bought somewhere else. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/300915727408?ssP...)

SebastianK - Réponse

Removing the battery wasn't necessary. I attempted the removal but decided not to in the end. It didn't get in the way at all.

BigFatCat - Réponse

i also skipped the battery removal step. the battery didn't get in the way, but it did make it difficult to see if the wifi grounding fingers (step 14) were underneath the case lip. everything worked in the end though so i don't think removing the battery is a strict requirement.

rippergirl - Réponse

How can you not remove the battery in a battery replacement fix? Step 14, there are only 7 steps. Me thinks these comments are getting mixed up between different fixes!

bluezzer -

I did not remove the battery to do a Speaker replacement and had no issues with getting the Speaker out/in. So, steps 4 and 5 are required but not step 6.

rcrodriguez2 - Réponse

The plastic tab is not attached to the battery. I just pried from the right and slid tools under until I broke all the adhesive.

DMcG - Réponse

I found it easier to start by pulling the plastic lip to loosen the battery, then, if needed, use the plastic tool to pry from the side.

superedu111 - Réponse

I tried to get the battery out as depicted in the first picture. It deformed and is now broken. Not happy. It seems better to leave it or get it out by gently pulling the tab.

Paul Baars - Réponse

Please, Please, PLEASE avoid using probing elements to try remove batteries. I have had dozens handed in to me with punctures and two that actually started smoking due to people trying to prise the battery out. DO NOT DO IT.

The best way I have found to remove the battery is this process;

1) Try remove it with the pull tab directly, some will come out, some will not. Do NOT use excessive pull force else it'll deform the battery and reduce the capacity.

2) If the pull test didn't work, then get a hot air gun on medium and warm up the area around the battery for about 30 seconds, focusing on the perimeter of the battery. If you see ANY popcorn'ing then you're too hot, you don't want to cook the battery.

2.1) Wait about 30 seconds for the heat to now wick underneath the battery to soften the adhesive.

2.2) Now try pull the battery up, the extra heat should have softened the glue that you can remove the battery without excessive force and without sticking objects under the battery.

Paul L Daniels - Réponse

Utilisez la languette en plastique translucide visible pour décoller la batterie de l'adhésif qui l'attache à l'iPhone. Veillez à ne pas tirer trop fort sur la languette, elle se déchire facilement.
  • Utilisez la languette en plastique translucide visible pour décoller la batterie de l'adhésif qui l'attache à l'iPhone.

  • Veillez à ne pas tirer trop fort sur la languette, elle se déchire facilement.

  • Retirez la batterie.

  • Si votre batterie de remplacement est livrée avec une protection plastique, enlevez-la avant d'installer la batterie en la décollant de la nappe.

  • Si votre batterie de remplacement est livrée avec une nappe non pliée, pliez-la très soigneusement pour la mettre en forme avant d'installer la batterie dans le téléphone.

  • Effectuez un hard reset après le remontage. Cela peut empêcher plusieurs problèmes et simplifier le dépannage.

Be VERY careful NOT to pull off the part of the connector that is on the logic board! Mine now has only contact but no solder until I can get a small enough soldering iron and a less shaky pair of hands!

Rob Hendricks - Réponse

I lost the 1.5mm and 1.7mm screws when replacing my 4s battery. Is there a place that sells just these two screws? I bought a 4s screw kit from Zeeton.com but figuring out which screw out the of 39 screws were the the 1.5mm and 1.7mm was impossible.

admin - Réponse

Buy a cheap pair of digital callipers ($20 -$30) and it will be clear. You can then use them to measure all kinds of things instead of squinting with a ruler.

bluezzer -

I bent the wire of the silent button on right top of the battery. Now the silent botton don't work. The wire on the bent is half-cut. BE CAREFUL when you put the new battery inside!

orzo - Réponse

Was having a hard time getting the screws back into the battery connector. Read another tip online that helped - pushed the end of my phillips screwdriver into some soft candle wax which gave it just enough stickyness to have the screw stay attached to the screwdriver while I was moving it toward the hole. Thought I'd pass that along.

bill - Réponse

I did as wazzamagu did (and stated above), "My Pentalobe tool was slightly magnetized so I used that to bring the screws in for tightening with the Philips screwdriver." That made replacing the screws fairly easy. Thanks for all the advice on this page. It was not hard at all. Go slow and carefully, everything is smaller in there than I expected. The "searching" thing came up as it seems for most people, but just took a reboot and all is fine.

amorteguy - Réponse

TO ALL WITH NETWORK PROBLEMS!

I had the same issue with "searching network". After resetting the network settings in settings it did work perfectly!

Klemt - Réponse

Took about 15 minutes. The only thing that was confusing was the reference to parts, using the partname, and I didn't know what they were referring to. So I had to figure it out by the photos. Slightly frustrating. Got it in and it worked. My problem then, was it kept SEARCHING and couldn't find my carrier. I followed everyones advice on here, plugged phone into my computer to itunes. then turned off network settings in settings, then turned them back on, and I got 3 bars. good to go.

sally -

Instructions were good and everything works fine after replacement. Needed to use a tweezer on the pressure contact on the top screw of the battery. Thanks

jeff - Réponse

I swapped out the battery today. No real issues. Pretty easy task.

ddbbsr - Réponse

For the past couple of months, my phone had been dying very fast. I knew that my phone's battery capacity was getting quite low as this phone is older now, and is out of warranty. So I ordered a replacement battery about a week ago, and just installed it yesterday. The install was pretty easy, if you pay attention to where everything belongs. But my draining issue has not gone away. It stays charged a bit longer, my capacity is at almost 100%, yet it can't even hold a charge over night. I'm not sure what is causing this and would love any tips or stories from someone else!! Please help!!

loucksls92 - Réponse

Beim Einbauen des neuen Akkus ist es sinnvoll diesen zuerst anzuschließen und dann erst wieder in die richtige Position zu bringen da man so dass Anschlusskabel besser verlegen kann

Andreas Richter - Réponse

OMG thank you iFIXIT, the apple store wanted 3 times the cost of this repair kit. It took less than 5 minutes with most of the time spent trying to prise out the battery as it was glued in nice and tight but steady pressure from the spudger did the trick.

I think the best advice would be to touch nothing with your fingers as with careful use of the spudger I was able to position the tensioner point no problem. Everything else was nice 'n' easy.

Finally there was no cell connection only Wifi when I powered up so I simply powered down and up again and all is well in the world!

Thanks again.

Yvonne Frankl - Réponse

The battery was incredibly hard to remove. I slid the spudger underneath the battery from the right side as far as it would go. Then, I worked it from the bottom to the top. The battery still was adhered and wouldn't budge using the pull tab. I wound up leaving the spudger underneath the battery at the top and then pressing down on the bottom of the battery to get leverage. After a few strong pushes, and then swapping the top and bottom in the last sentence, the old battery came loose.

I used tweezers to hold the tiny screws and align them with the screwdriver head before taking the screw to the destination hole.

One more tip.. if you don't have any other cartons or containers convenient, use the box that the product comes in as a workspace for holding the tiny screws while you work.

Steve B - Réponse

good tips, i took a couple of photos so i knew what it should look like and removed the screws and placed them in the order i removed them pretty easy if you take your time and be gentle

Sam B -

Be VERY careful not to pull on the plastic tab before you fully detach the adhesive or else you will rip the tab clean off. If you did this it is still possible to remove the battery. I just used the guitar pick tool things to slowly work it through the adhesive and under the battery

Zach Mangs - Réponse

It is possible to remove and replace the upper antenna WITHOUT removing the logic board!! So skip from step 7 to step 21 to 26 and 27.

What - Réponse

Stuck on searching after unplugging and plugging in the battery?

This is due to the date and time being set back to default. To fix this you will need to synchronize the date and time back to what it is currently.

You can do this by either:

- Connecting the phone to either a Wi-Fi network, Cellular Network (Mobile Data).

- Connecting the phone to iTunes (It will synchronize the time automatically once iTunes is opened and can detect and access the iPhone).

Once the date and time is synced you will need to turn airplane mode off and one as it may display 'Searching... 3G' or if it still says searching (which most of the time happens if the sim card has a sim pin lock enabled on it) you will then need to turn the phone off and on.

Ben - Réponse

Watched the video and ordered the kit, followed all the steps and it all went brilliantly - thank you all so much.

diegodesignsbiz - Réponse

Is it suggested that I add more adhesive with the replacement battery?

Sam Love - Réponse

One thing I noted with the replacement battery - from AussieBattery here in Australia; not from iFixit - but the same problem might occur; is that the cable on the new battery had to be 'tamed' (bent here & there like on the old battery, before I could reseat the screws and even the battery itself. One again the black - pointy & flat ended - spudgers, that we use in desktop iMacs, were helpful in getting under that battery and releasing it from sticky-!&&*! I used a pair of '2.5' reading glasses for this job, but '3.0' might have been better, as those screws are INFINITESIMALLY small!!!!! :(

amicuset - Réponse

Thank you IFIXIT! The battery replacement went very well for me. I was exceedingly careful with the minuscule fasteners. Reading through the instructions, watching the video and reading these comments before jumping in helped. I found the parts and tools to be of good quality. I feel like I beat the system! I used a pair of diopter 3 reading glasses which was a real aid. I hope my comment encourages others...

Colin Murdoch - Réponse

My rare earth magnets came in handy when I managed to lose the little grounding connecter screws. Those little guys will go flying if, while trying to align them for reassembly, pressure gets applied in just the wrong way. I say one fly out and bounce off my shirt, then it was gone, on the floor I presume. I grabbed my stack of 8 little magnets, waved it around on the floor under where I was sitting and what do you know? A little screw was stuck to it! I never would've found it just by looking...

William Wingstedt - Réponse

You really need to include information about the pressure sensor. It WILL inevitably pop out, leaving us wondering how and in what order it should be replaced. I had to look elsewhere for videos outside of iFixit to figure this out. Also, tell us which screwdriver to use using the label on the bit (PH000, P2, Y000, etc.). Providing only the sizes of the screws does nothing to help determine the appropriate bit to use when they aren’t labeled as such. Otherwise thank you!

Thomas Price - Réponse

I replaced the battery and the phone started right up. But I cannot get it to charge It was half charged when it went in new and I plugged it into a charger Checked it later - not charged. So tried another charger and the green charging light still will not come on . Any suggestions? Thanks Don

Donald Brown - Réponse

My iPhone 4s somehow has another connector on the battery. I cant connect the new battery to the phone. Its a complete different looking connector. And yes its never been replaced before or opened. The iPhone is one of the first versions for the german market after the fall of the simlock. Pls help

macadi - Réponse

If it doesn’t look like what you’re seeing here, it’s probably not an iPhone 4S. Check the model number carefully. People mix up the regular and “S” models all the time. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Enlevez les vis suivantes qui maintiennent le cache de la nappe du connecteur de dock à la carte mère: Une vis Phillips de 1,5 mm
  • Enlevez les vis suivantes qui maintiennent le cache de la nappe du connecteur de dock à la carte mère:

    • Une vis Phillips de 1,5 mm

    • Une vis Phillips de 1,2 mm

  • Retirez le cache métallique de la nappe du connecteur de dock.

Are the screw sizes switche up by any chance? A 4S i have here has the left hole bigger and one of the screws didn't want to go into the right hole when it went nicely into the left one.

primozresman - Réponse

Fabulous tutorial! Many thanks! i have now a working iPhone back after display crash and glass brake!

In Step 8 I think the colors of the screws are inverted. The larger screw is at the left (near the sideboard) and the smaller is in the middle, near the battery (iPhone 4S).

Markus - Réponse

Was trying to fix guide but accidently messed some things up in formatting and I too also believe the picture is incorrectly displaying the 1.5mm(which is the left screw) and the 1.2mm(which is the right screw.

Mars Starcruiser - Réponse

I believe the guide is correct, but be careful as the screws are not the same as the other 1.2mm screws from later on. Length is the same, but the diameter is not... just keep them all separate.

Dave - Réponse

Organizer: tape cheap duct tape tacky side up to a tray. Get a ball point or roller ball pen. For every screw, write step number and a letter for color (R, O, Y, etc.) then stick the screw there. I bumped the table and nothing moved. Also use a big white towel as a work surface: nothing bounces away if you drop it. This helped re-assembly

griffn - Réponse

Also remove 4 screws holding metal cover plate adjacent to camera lens, remove plate to expose camera plug. when removing the rear facing camera, be careful not to loose the small grounding finger mentioned in step 21

Robin - Réponse

Utilisez un outil en plastique pour retirer la nappe de dock de son emplacement sur la carte mère.
  • Utilisez un outil en plastique pour retirer la nappe de dock de son emplacement sur la carte mère.

Ajouter un commentaire

Décollez la nappe du connecteur de dock de l'adhésif qui l'attache à la carte mère et au côté du boîtier du haut-parleur.
  • Décollez la nappe du connecteur de dock de l'adhésif qui l'attache à la carte mère et au côté du boîtier du haut-parleur.

My gold adhesive has torn, exposing a sliver of the flat wire beneath it. I have put a bit of insulation tape to prevent any contact between the wire and the top of the vibrator and metal piece on the logic board. I don't know if this is sensible or not. Depends whether the gold adhesive is intended to be an electrical contact with these bits, or an insulator from these bits! I will post to update once the phone is powered up / blown up!

David Thorne - Réponse

Utilisez un outil en plastique pour enlever la nappe de l'antenne cellulaire de son emplacement sur la carte mère. Retirez l'antenne cellulaire d'en dessous des fixations en métal qui la maintiennent à la carte mère.
  • Utilisez un outil en plastique pour enlever la nappe de l'antenne cellulaire de son emplacement sur la carte mère.

  • Retirez l'antenne cellulaire d'en dessous des fixations en métal qui la maintiennent à la carte mère.

Ok, I did all the steps and phone seems to be OK, wifi is actually working again, yaaay.

But cellular connection is messed up. It will have full reception (5 pins) for about 10 seconds, then drop to 1 pin for a couple seconds, then go into "searching" mode. After a few seconds in "searching" mode it will go back to full reception and the process repeats itself in a timely fashion, over and over again. Obviously I messed up somewhere but where? Which connections are faulty/beyond repair?

Colorblend - Réponse

I dismantled the phone again and concluded that the digitizer cable was kind of loose (don't know if that affected anything, but i put it down firmly this time). I had 2 problems, the cellular connection I mentioned plus the phone would charge to 3 percent, die, and then repeat the procedure. What I did was I took out the battery, the tin plate above the cables, and lifted the dock connector. So I did not redo that much. I cleaned all contact surfaces as I had been told but chose to not do before.... I also took out the grounding clip by the battery connectors and bent it upwards quite a bit while also peeling away 2 mm of the black insulation material on the back of the phone to make sure the grounding clip connects well to the back of the phone. I also cleaned that surface with window cleaner, which is basically isoprypol alcohol as has been recommended. The cellular antenna connector I pushed down firmly to make sure it was connected, I was gentler the first time, now everything works.

Colorblend - Réponse

Note that the antenna cable goes around the the right side of that little guiding hook/finger. On the photo it shows the cable on the left of it. The hook is almost right below the socket.

jasperm - Réponse

Thanks Jasperm, that info was a big help!

Don Hayashi -

Faites attention au petit anneau en plastique situé sur l'unité de flash de la caméra arrière. Il peut être facilement déplacé s'il n'est pas enlevé au cours du démontage.
  • Faites attention au petit anneau en plastique situé sur l'unité de flash de la caméra arrière. Il peut être facilement déplacé s'il n'est pas enlevé au cours du démontage.

  • Vous pouvez utiliser des pincettes, un outil en plastique ou une spatule (spudger) pour retirer l'anneau en plastique extérieur.

Sometimes found stuck to the inside of the back cover.

Jeremy Jones - Réponse

Don't do it!!! you can skip that, it will stay and its more of a pain to remove it.

Nic Harper - Réponse

This is unnecessary step!! Don't do that!!

javamonk - Réponse

Agreed, mine was stuck inside of the back cover

fidelvila - Réponse

So was mine - thanks for telling! Rests of soft glue could be scratched off the place - so the ring was already off and I looked for it everywhere.

Ida - Réponse

Mine was stuck to the cover too, thanks for posting.

davisyang - Réponse

Mine too, thx :)

Katja Huovinen - Réponse

Enlevez les quatre vis suivantes qui maintiennent le cache de nappe sur la carte mère:
  • Enlevez les quatre vis suivantes qui maintiennent le cache de nappe sur la carte mère:

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 2,7 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 2,6 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 1,3 mm

    • Une vis cruciforme Phillips de 1,2 mm

On reassembly, note that the metal lip below the (red) 2.7mm screw and to the right of the (green) 1.2mm screw goes between the ribbon cable and the main logic board, as can be seen in the picture for Step 12. If you don't get this right, the 2.7mm screw is difficult and, worse, there's a risk the edge of the lip will tear the ribbon cable.

David Bruce - Réponse

I had challenges here. As noted, the metal lip below the (red) 2.7mm screw and to the right of the (green) 1.2mm screw goes between the ribbon cable and the main logic board. That lip points away from you, towards the screen, THEN BENDS UP towards the power button. You need to pull the metal shield down a little (which stresses the ribbon cable) to get the hook-shaped feature free.

griffn -

The fastening on the board came loose when trying to remove screw the 1.2 mm Phillips screw. So the screw hole for that screw is still attached to the cover that I removed.

Aasmund Gravem - Réponse

Got to step 13 and could not remove the 1.3mm screw (yellow circle), even using a different Phillips head screwdriver than the one that came with the kit. So frustrating. Was able to remove the other screws leading up to this point without difficulty (used the saran wrap trick on the other screws to prevent stripping, but this 1.3mm screw just would not budge).

Ended up abandoning the screen replacement--luckily the phone works after putting it back together.

Gayle - Réponse

In my case, the 1.3 screw (yellow) wouldn't tighten on reassembly. I might have tightened too much so that it stripped the screw hole. Anyone know whether this has damaged the board in some way. The phone works fine, but concerned about the long run.

Casltech - Réponse

Utilisez un outil en plastique pour enlever les languettes du cache de nappe des fentes coupées dans la plaque de protection EMI sur la carte mère. Soulevez le cache de nappe par le bord le plus proche du haut et retirez-le de l'iPhone.
  • Utilisez un outil en plastique pour enlever les languettes du cache de nappe des fentes coupées dans la plaque de protection EMI sur la carte mère.

  • Soulevez le cache de nappe par le bord le plus proche du haut et retirez-le de l'iPhone.

If you just very slightly twist this plate clockwise as you are lifting it out, it will help as there is a little hooked piece at the lower edge on the very far right. You have to be careful not to turn it too much though because this hooked piece is right beside a ribbon that could be damaged.

Trisch - Réponse

To add to Trisch's comment:

If turn the plate clockwise doesn't do the trick, the hooked piece on the lower right comes off when you pull the plate towards you a tiny bit. Still, watch out not breaking that ribbon the hooked piece is behind of.

jasperm - Réponse

If you're having trouble removing the EMF shield, try using a plastic prying tool to lift the top right part while pushing it ever so slightly downwards with a finger. Consult this video for details: https://youtu.be/8fujLMaxJsw?t=6m42s

oysteinespedal - Réponse

Utilisez un outil en plastique pour soulever le connecteur de la caméra arrière de son emplacement sur la carte mère. Faites très attention de ne pas endommager d'autres composants sur la carte mère pendant que vous faites levier.
  • Utilisez un outil en plastique pour soulever le connecteur de la caméra arrière de son emplacement sur la carte mère.

  • Faites très attention de ne pas endommager d'autres composants sur la carte mère pendant que vous faites levier.

  • Retirez la caméra arrière de l'iPhone.

  • Il y a un petit joint en caoutchouc sous la caméra arrière. Veillez à ce qu'il soit correctement remis avant le remontage.

Im pretty sure that when you reinsert the cam the grounding clip has go to between metal sticker and the cam body, or the camra wont be grounded

Michael Rygaard - Réponse

I've got a trouble at this step. Is there anybody who could help me out with my problem? When I was removing the camera module, accidently removed small element, which is marked with the red line http://i63.fastpic.ru/big/2014/1022/4e/9...

As I figured out - that is the SMD capacitor. After that Iphone was switched on, and it seems to be working fine at the moment, but I am very scared, if it will continue to work well without that small piece. Anybody to help?

soubi8 - Réponse

In my case, the grounding clip was taped to the camera! In addition, my repair process stopped at this step as the left screw on the power button had come out and was floating around next to the camera slightly stuck to the tape. This was lucky since a loose screw in an iPhone under the logic board would be a bad omen.

Michael Scollay - Réponse

Utilisez un éjecteur de carte SIM ou un trombone pour éjecter la carte SIM et son tiroir. Il faudra probablement exercer une pression assez forte.
  • Utilisez un éjecteur de carte SIM ou un trombone pour éjecter la carte SIM et son tiroir.

  • Il faudra probablement exercer une pression assez forte.

  • Retirez la carte SIM et son tiroir.

I have an Iphone 4 but the inerds look more like this 4S than the 4, except I do not have a SIM card port. What's up?

Dave - Réponse

Probably a CDMA (Verizon) iPhone 4.

Pepper -

Is there a reason for waiting until step 18 to remove the sim card and its holder? I can do it right before I start without much force, is this not better?

jmaelzer - Réponse

I don't see any reason. So it was my step 1 to remove the SIM card.

Ida -

I agree that the SIM card should be removed before you even start. After I completed this repair (waiting until this step to remove the SIM), the SIM card and holders won't go flush with the side of the phone anymore. The phone still works and everything else is fine, it's just annoying that I have a SIM holder sticking out about 1mm. I'm not certain this step caused this, but I'm just letting folks know that I agree with jmaelzer.

Song - Réponse

for the life of me I can NOT get this sim card and holder out!

Lori - Réponse

While "This may require a significant amount of force." may vary by individual device, I found it to be true. I used a straightened paper clip held with a (really good) pair of needle nose pliers and pushed straight in until it fully popped out.

Orac -

To be honest, it's really hard to remove SIM card without a correct tool.

Beck Sisyphus - Réponse

You have to PUSH the paperclip IN, then the tray pops OUT.

Floris Jansen - Réponse

I agree. Push in.

ivesrubl -

ifixit needs to edit this: "significant force" is NOT needed! I started to bend out the hole until I read the last post- just push the tool straight in, the SIM card will eject easily.

soopamandan - Réponse

That may depend on the specific device; significant force *was* needed to eject it in the case of the phone I'm working on. Putting it back in, however, was very easy and didn't require any significant effort.

Orac -

Is there any reason why you still have the ribbon cable under the little metalic plate (right under the sticker that says "Authorized Service Provider Only") plugged in in STEP 10. And it is without any instruction step removed in STEP 12? I mean it's not like it is complicated, but when I got to that part I was confused there for a minute that I forgot some step, and then reassured myself that I did everything as it said in the manual.

Tadeas Bucha - Réponse

I have done everything correctly but when i turn the phone on all i get is a blank screen. The phone operates as normal i.e. it rings, vibrates etc but the screen is just blank so you can't actually do anything with it :(

anyone had the same issue?

mark - Réponse

FWIW, I found it easier to replace during re-assembly by turning the phone front-side up, as on the Sprint-locked one I was working on, the SIM card faces that way. Otherwise, it tends to fall out (down) while trying to re-insert it if the phone is face down.

Orac - Réponse

Popped the SIM card holder out no prob - but there’s no SIM card. This is a Virgin Mobile phone, does that matter?

lavudyar - Réponse

Enlevez les cinq nappes près du côté supérieur de la carte mère dans l'ordre suivant: Nappe prise jack/bouton de volume
  • Enlevez les cinq nappes près du côté supérieur de la carte mère dans l'ordre suivant:

    • Nappe prise jack/bouton de volume

    • Nappe de la caméra avant

    • Nappe du tactile

    • Nappe d'écran

    • Nappe du bouton de marche (situé en dessous de la nappe prise jack/bouton de volume comme on peut le voir sur la deuxième photo.)

  • Pour déconnecter les nappes, utilisez un outil en plastique pour délicatement faire levier et soulever leurs connecteurs de leurs emplacements sur la carte mère.

  • Veillez à ne pas endommager les petits composants délicats sur la surface pendant que vous déconnectez les nappes.

There is an additional cable that you have to disconnect that's under the headphone jack cable. You have to do this before you try to remove the logic board. Otherwise, you'll rip that cable.. and I just freaking did.

Dennis - Réponse

The digitizer cable won't reach! I've already ripped it off once. which disconnect are you talking about?

kct16k -

I just ripped off the power cable ... i can live without the power button though!

Oreste Attanasio - Réponse

is that sarcasm or is there really a way to turn on the phone without the power button?

Sharn de Wet -

The only way to turn on an iPhone without a power button is to plug it in to power. If it was shut down while connected to a sync cable then disconnect and reconnect for it to turn on.

ben0509 -

I just broke off the power button as well because I forgot to disconnect the cable. Thank goodness for chargers and assistive touch!

grilledsoap -

Need to remove the shield over the connectors first. Look at the other guides for the 4S they show the 4 screws and how to lift the shield out, take out the camera etc.

Paul - Réponse

During reassembly, I noticed that the data display cable is rather stiff. It may be a bit tricky to get it reconnected, but you'll know once it's in.

bsporer3 - Réponse

That power cable connector is very delicate. I managed to tear it just a tiny bit in the curve of the cable too. So I’ve got another part on order now. Apart from that the screen replacement went great ;) I’m not sure at which step the tear actually happened, it might have been during re-assembly when I was trying to get all these cables to stay on top of rather than go behind the motherboard. Realizing how easy that is to tear and keeping that in mind as you do this is important.

james - Réponse

I ripped the power button cable(didn't see it), any chance it could be outlined with a dotted color in the future? (I'm bad at reading the warnings)

Eli Goethel - Réponse

It was a lot easier for me to use a fingernail to remove these cables. It provides a lot less force, and is more likely to remove the cables without damaging them as they are very easy to break.

jack jones - Réponse

Enlevez la vis cruciforme Phillips de 1,5 mm qui maintient le clip de mise à la terre sur la carte mère près de la prise jack.
  • Enlevez la vis cruciforme Phillips de 1,5 mm qui maintient le clip de mise à la terre sur la carte mère près de la prise jack.

During reassembly, note that this small 1.5 mm screw goes into a thread in the head of the larger 4.8 mm standoff screw near the headphone jack.

gregm - Réponse

Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour enlever le petit clip de mise à la terre de la carte mère. Saisissez soigneusement le clip et retirez-le de l'iPhone.
  • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour enlever le petit clip de mise à la terre de la carte mère.

  • Saisissez soigneusement le clip et retirez-le de l'iPhone.

  • Avant le remontage, assurez-vous de bien nettoyer tous les points de contact métal sur métal du clip de mise à la terre (pas les deux parties assorties des connecteurs) avec un nettoyant dégraissant tel que du windex ou de l'alcool isopropylique. Le sébum sur vos doigts peut causer des problèmes de mise à la terre.

(be careful but gently forceful; the part doesn't come out without effort)

Carol Wade - Réponse

Prying this off took the most effort as it's a squarish 'C' clip with two small 'teeth' like points that grip the bottom.

Ferd Roseboom - Réponse

You can use the edge of a plastic opening tool to easily lift the other side of the grounding clip.

Grigory Entin - Réponse

Utilisez un embout de tournevis pour vis d'entretoise ou un petit tournevis plat pour enlever la vis d'entretoise de 4,8 mm près de la prise jack.

I used a metal spudger from the Pro Tech Toolkit to remove the standoff, seemed to work better for me than a flathead screwdriver.

Dirk Blom - Réponse

The flathead screwdriver provided is much too small to remove this piece!

gluethje76 - Réponse

I recommend that steps 20 and 21 are swapped. It's much easier to remove the wifi antenna flex from the board using the blue spudger if the board/PCB is still secured with the 4.8mm screw.

Removing the screw first makes the PCB move up too much when you're trying to detach the wifi flex and can lead to mishaps.

Paul L Daniels - Réponse

Not all screwdrivers are equal. I took mine in the shop and ground the blade thinner then made sure the end was square and flat. You can do this with an emery board or sand paper. You want a good fit in the stand-offs.

griffn - Réponse

Utilisez un outil en plastique pour déconnecter l'antenne Wi-Fi de la carte mère.
  • Utilisez un outil en plastique pour déconnecter l'antenne Wi-Fi de la carte mère.

Great Guide and thanks. Now...what if i snapped the wifi antenna cable together with its male connector from the board? Like tearing it apart ? Can this be replaced by any chance? Thanks!

spyrosandreou - Réponse

I also had a problem with the connector breaking off, but after putting everything together, the WiFi seems to work like before, so I guess there is no problem there...

Dirk Blom - Réponse

Ok so no fret here if you accidentally pull off the metal insert placed on top of the actual antenna. This step needs to be rewritten imo, the deal here is that there is an actual 'socket' looking deal underneath here that you need to lift up. There is a metal tab semi'glued' to that part of the antenna and it does come off easily, however all you need to do is press them back together to get them back, I believe it to be a range 'extender' of sorts.

So your looking to actually lift up what looks a lot like a ribbon cable as well in this step. YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE A PIECE REMOVED IN THIS STEP, it's still in the case at this point.

Ben - Réponse

I have connected my wifi antenna to the phone but when my phone switches on the wifi button is a grey colour and won't let me turn it on, help?

melissamerin -

When reassembly - take care with flat cable, which might be pushing connector to side. If so - I found easy to put connector in place before tightening screws on step 23 and 22. Because then logic board can move a bit when repositioning connector and to slide right place before connecting it properly.

Samuel Lackman - Réponse

Décollez le morceau de bande noire (s'il y en a) qui recouvre la vis cachée près du bouton home. Enlevez la vis cruciforme Phillips de 2,6 mm qui maintient la carte mère près du bouton de marche.
  • Décollez le morceau de bande noire (s'il y en a) qui recouvre la vis cachée près du bouton home.

  • Enlevez la vis cruciforme Phillips de 2,6 mm qui maintient la carte mère près du bouton de marche.

    • (Faites attention lorsque vous enlevez cette vis ainsi que le contact de courant qui y est attaché. La languette du contact s'enlève avec la vis.)

  • Faites attention au petit amortisseur en caoutchouc sous les nappes d'écran et du tactile (attachées en haut au dessus du Code QR). Cet amortisseur peut se défaire de la carte mère quand on l'enlève, ou bien s'accrocher aux nappes et tomber plus tard.

Dimension given are Length of screw. I think it meant to say 2.6mm screw.

Jon - Réponse

Note that there is a rubber insulator that is loosely attached to the PBC that can be seen in the upper right corner of the red outline near the tag with Q5M on it. It falls off after the logic board is removed and should be replaced before reassembly.

ghodges - Réponse

where the heck does it go back on the logic board?! It fell off during removal and I cant seem to locate it in the pictures. :(

Shaun Brown -

As noted: Put the bumper back right above the white bar code label. The label says Q5M on the far right side. The bumper goes on the edge of the board to protect the ribbon cables that bend over the board.

griffn -

So, my 2.6 Philips screw near the power cable just spins and spins. It happened the first time, so I know I didn't strip it. Any ideas?

thebacks - Réponse

So, I couldn't gind the tape and instead of digging around. I did what no one should do. I twisted and pulled. So now the screw that holds the upper left corner on broke that part of the logic board off. Everything else went back great....Phone won't turn on. Am I screwed here?

cdays01 - Réponse

step 13 - “One 1.3 mm Phillips screw”

step -22 “Notice the small rubber bumper under the screen & digitizer cables (which are detached at top above the Q-code)”

“Note that there is a rubber insulator that is loosely attached to the PBC that can be seen in the upper right corner of the red outline near the tag with Q5M on it”

now, the problem :-)

while assembly the iPhone I screw by mistake the 2.6 mm instead of the 1.3, and without noticing I break the 1.3 base screw from the motherboard :-/

Now, the rear camera is not working.

I couldn't figure in the picture above, if the rubber bumper you mean, is under that screw or above the Q5M tag ?

Can it be that the dewar camera don’t work because of that broken screw?

Any idea how to fix it?

Is there any option to buy the rubber bumper, if I lost it ?

Appreciate any help,

thanks!!

Simon - Réponse

Under the screw is a ground clip from step 25. I tweezed it out here since it might bounce free while pulling logic board out. Use a big white towel as a work surface to prevent wayward bouncing bits from flying off the table.

griffn - Réponse

Caution: the image with the QR code is "mirrored" --> look at it "reversed" !

jacquesfforster - Réponse

If your driver is just spinning in this step, you may be trying to turn the offset screw instead of the phillips screw beneath the tape. The tape is not obvious, and I found tweezers helpful when removing it.

Rog - Réponse

  • Enlevez les vis suivantes qui maintiennent la carte mère au boîtier:

    • Une vis Phillips de 2,5 mm près du moteur du vibreur

    • Une vis Phillips de 2,4 mm

    • Une vis d'entretoise de 3,6 mm sur le côté de la carte mère le plus près du compartiment de la batterie.

  • Utilisez un tournevis avec embout de tournevis pour vis d'entretoise pour iPhone ou un petit tournevis à tête plate pour enlever la seule vis d'entretoise de 3,6 mm.

I used a metal spudger from the Pro Tech Toolkit to remove the standoff, seemed to work better for me than a flathead screwdriver.

Dirk Blom - Réponse

The Kit Provided flat head screw driver didn't fit in the stand off screw heads on my IPhone 4s. I had to use it in only one side of the screw notch to slowly twist them out. Its doable but could use a larger flat head, but the blade needs to be micro thin.

Clay - Réponse

I wound up stripping one of the screws on this step. Was frustrating but I found if I too a sharp knife and gently went back n forth I was able to make a little notch to use a flat head and got it off. Other than that all went well.

Christopher Imhoff - Réponse

Soulevez soigneusement la carte mère par le côté le plus près du compartiment des haut-parleurs et poussez-la du bord supérieur de l'iPhone.
  • Soulevez soigneusement la carte mère par le côté le plus près du compartiment des haut-parleurs et poussez-la du bord supérieur de l'iPhone.

  • Retirez la carte mère.

  • Avant le remontage, assurez-vous de bien nettoyer tous les points de contact métal sur métal de la carte mère (pas les deux parties assorties des connecteurs) avec un nettoyant dégraissant tel que du windex ou de l'alcool isopropylique. Le sébum sur vos doigts peut causer des problèmes de mise à la terre.

  • Il y a un petit amortisseur en caoutchouc en haut de la carte mère à l'endroit où les nappes d'écran et du tactile passent. Il protège les nappes quand elles se plient sur le haut de la carte mère. Cet amortisseur peut s'accrocher aux nappes ou tomber de la carte mère lors du démontage. Référez-vous à l'étape 22 pour plus de détails.

After I had lifted the logic board and moved around a little a small rubber piece fell off. Approx. 1 cm long and 2 mm wide. I'm guessing it's for some sort of isolation between the board and the chassis. Where should it go when I reassemble the phone?

The piece I'm referring to can be seen on the table in the upper right corner in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVQtgD89e...

Simon Fransson - Réponse

It sits between the logic board top-edge and the two ribbon leads from the screen. Its purpose is to stop the PCB cutting in to the FPC leads over time due to vibrations. If you require I can send a photo.

Paul L Daniels -

hey, i removed the logic board and gave it a bit isopropanol spray. is this ok? how can i found out if it is working? is it possible to remove something from the logic board? thank you :)

bne - Réponse

On reassembly, make sure you lift up the power button cable before installing circuit board. I thought I had all of the cables lifted until after getting to step 17 (in reverse) only to find out power cable was under the circuit board. Added 15 minutes to my process.

juanocasio - Réponse

I had a similar problem as I was back tracking steps to perform something I missed and actually broken the power and sensor cable (the one that is connected to the digital board first during re-installation. A secondary order and another 20 minutes took care of it. Glad you were able to not hit that barrier.

mattwilber -

On reassembly, you are putting the plate under the spaghetti. I went back a few times to get all the cables out. Here is a check list before you tighten any logic board screws or try to jam the top edge of the board in place:

Counter clockwise from upper right near power button:

- Wi-Fi Cable from step 21

- 5 cables near the camera from step 17.The ‘blue’ power cable underneath loves to hide. The ‘orange’ front facing camera cable can get kinked under the board during re-install (no more selfies on this phone).

- Dock cable from step 9

- Cell Antenna from step 11

Go slow. Look twice.

griffn - Réponse

Before logic board re assembly it is nice to use scotch tape ( temporarily) to bend all the connections above the battery compartment . Doing as such avoid to have the power button connection remaining below the logic board .

thierry28722 - Réponse

Faites attention de ne pas perdre le petit dispositif de mise à la terre pour la caméra arrière près du bouton de marche. Ce dispositif est posé au dessus du circuit imprimé, vissé et couvert de bande adhésive noire.
  • Faites attention de ne pas perdre le petit dispositif de mise à la terre pour la caméra arrière près du bouton de marche. Ce dispositif est posé au dessus du circuit imprimé, vissé et couvert de bande adhésive noire.

if I LOSE it, what will happen?

Actually, i DID lose it.

XuKaimeng - Réponse

Hi. This little clip is responsible for the image stabilization on the 4S. When the iPhone 4S was launched, one of the things that were different from iPhone 4 was Image Stabilization, specially when the user was filming. This clip holds the camera module in place while the phone is shaking in the hands of the user. Pretty high tech :D

Pedro de Almeida Silva Chaves -

Apparently it had uncovered my iPhone before, because when I did not find this piece uncapped here. I need to know which function is on the iPhone and if it is very important. How could I get?

Raul Tejada - Réponse

Hi, I had the phone apart to replace the wifi chip.

Has anyone found a source for the two nano sized SMD resistors, because this also causes "no wifi" syndrome due to them being important for the I2C lines.

thanks!!! -A email testing_h "at " yahoo.com

Andre De Guerin - Réponse

I think this is one of the parts I didn't put back in... Does it affect anything?

Also, Took apart my iPhone 4S to fix the screen and battery... Now the camera light doesn't turn on and I'm left with two pieces. Help!

Here are the parts: http://imgur.com/DsYtdlR

Nicole - Réponse

Left part: See step 5 - "Take notice of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector".

Right part: See step 25 - "Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button".

Simon Fransson -

I removed this in step 22 even though it only slightly alluded to it. If you did, too, don't panic. Go find your step 22 parts and verify it is there. :)

christopherjwells - Réponse

What are the consequences of losing the 'small grounding finger for the rear view camera'?

3chris3rivers3 - Réponse

Hi. This little clip is responsible for the image stabilization on the 4S.

Pedro de Almeida Silva Chaves -

I did it. No problems!!!

I used a Tupperware orange peeler as a plastic opening tool and didn't touched any screws oder other inner parts.

I had to do it two times, because my old 4S 64GB has a broken WLAN Chip on the logic board, and my wifes 4S has broken her display glass. So I took her logic board into my 4S body. Now we have one running iPhone 4S 64GB instead of two broken phones.

HaJo - Réponse

HELP! Miy clip does look different, and i have no idea how to fit it in

slipknot660 - Réponse

This little piece was missing when I opened my phone, seems it was lost last time I sent it to the repair shop for screen replacement.. :-( but it does take pictures

Jose Fernandez - Réponse

Retirez la vis cruciforme de 2,4 mm près de la prise casque.
  • Retirez la vis cruciforme de 2,4 mm près de la prise casque.

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Utilisez le bord d'un outil en plastique pour décoller l'antenne supérieure de la prise casque. A l'aide de pincettes, retirez l'antenne supérieure de l'iPhone.
  • Utilisez le bord d'un outil en plastique pour décoller l'antenne supérieure de la prise casque.

  • A l'aide de pincettes, retirez l'antenne supérieure de l'iPhone.

  • Avant le remontage, veillez à bien nettoyer les points de contact métal sur métal sur l'antenne supérieure (mais non pas les deux moitiés de son connecteur) avec un produit dégraissant tel que de l'alcool isopropylique. Le sébum sur vos doigts risque de causer des problèmes d'interférences sans fil.

Guys, the supply part you deliver contains a plastic piece on the bottom of the antenna, make sure to also remove this piece of plastic from the phone (photo is missing) when placing a new stock wifi antenna in the phone, as otherwise when closing the phone, the back lid has too little space to close, and thereby you have to reopen the entire phone a second time, which is time consuming. If you want to have a picture of what i mean contact me.

remmeltbeckers - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.

84 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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13 commentaires

the upper antenna is the wifi antena?? or the thing by the speakers is the wifi antenna? i am a bit confused!

Jigar - Réponse

where can u buy this piece, Ive been searching for about an hour now, a friend of mine tried to fix their phone and ripped this piece off... no idea how... any help?

willsrepairs - Réponse

The guide is very good and I succeeded in opening the iphone and fixing back again all the parts. Unfortunately, the wi-fi module still doesn't work, I don't know why. Anyway, many thanks to all ifixit staff, since they are helpful, efficient and kind. Alberto from Italy

abragaglia62 - Réponse

Just completed replacing the battery and the wifi antenna. Went swimmingly. Thanks for the great directions. You guys rock! This fixed my 4s wifi grayed out issue. One thing to note, they wifi antenna needs to click into the socket to get a good connection. Put it together without checking this the first time and, no go.... Opened it up and made sure the connection was good and wahlah... AWSOME!

kempilt - Réponse

Hello, I had the issue with the grayed out wifi button. I replaced the upper antenna and the cellular antenna. When I turned on the phone the wifi was still greyed out. Does anyone has any other suggestions how I could possibly fix it.

Thanks

marcodegaetano - Réponse

Ray Leahy has a good point.

If you are just going to replace the upper (Wi-Fi/Bluetooth) antenna, then the following steps optimize the procedure (remove unnecessary steps). They worked for me.

Step 1 - plan on not re-using the pentalobe screws (replace them with new screws of your choice).

Step 2 - as is

Step 3 - as is

Step 4 - I shifted the battery out of its home without disconnecting it. This allowed me a better view and more maneuvering room.

Skip to:

Step 20 - as is

Step 21 - as is

Skip to:

Step 26 - as is

Step 27 - as is

Richard Bruton - Réponse

I switched wifi antennas between 2 iPhone 4s', one w working wifi, one without. It made no difference. The nonworking phone remained nonworking, even with the working wifi phone's antenna. Both phones show that wifi is available, the non working phone simply does not acknowledge a local wifi signal. What other component could be malfunctioning to cause wifi to be nonworking?

amckane - Réponse

Not grayed out. Just doesn't pick up signals.

amckane -

It is possible to remove and replace the upper antenna WITHOUT removing the logic board!! So skip from step 7 to step 21 to 26 and 27.

What - Réponse

Thanks you very much !!!!!!!!!!!!

rgdsikjrvsd - Réponse

I did all the steps but now my phone doesn't turn on

Hardik Chudasama - Réponse

It is possible to remove and replace the upper antenna WITHOUT removing the logic board!! So skip from step 7 to step 21 to 26 and 27.

THIS IS A 5 MINUTE JOB - IF THAT!!! AND THIS GUIDE TELLS YOU TO REMOVE THE BATTERY AND LOGIC BOARD!

NO NEED TO REMOVE ANYTHING EXCEPT THE BACK COVER AND THE TWO SCREWS HOLDING IN THE ANTENNA.

THIS GUIDE SHOULD BE AMENDED AS IT’S A COMPLETE WASTE OF TIME!!!

rendallwagner - Réponse

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