Introduction

Utilisez ce guide pour remplacer la nappe de capteur contenant la caméra avant, le microphone, les capteurs de luminosité et de proximité et le point de contact du haut-parleur interne dans votre iPhone 5s.

Vous pouvez aussi suivre ce guide pour remplacer les pièces suivantes :

Si la vitre de votre écran est fissurée, utilisez de la bande adhésive pour éviter de l'endommager davantage ou de vous blesser lors de la réparation. Couvrez entièrement l'écran du téléphone avec une bande de ruban adhésif transparent. Le ruban adhésif permet de retenir les éclats de verre et de maintenir l'intégrité de la structure lorsque l'écran sera soulevé.
  • Si la vitre de votre écran est fissurée, utilisez de la bande adhésive pour éviter de l'endommager davantage ou de vous blesser lors de la réparation.

  • Couvrez entièrement l'écran du téléphone avec une bande de ruban adhésif transparent.

    • Le ruban adhésif permet de retenir les éclats de verre et de maintenir l'intégrité de la structure lorsque l'écran sera soulevé.

  • Portez des lunettes de protection pour protéger vos yeux d'un éventuel bris de verre lors de la réparation.

This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

steven krieger - Réponse

This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

TerryChang - Réponse

An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

TerryChang -

I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

Daylen -

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

yaterbob - Réponse

Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

mark40 - Réponse

Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

debsmcd6 - Réponse

As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

debsmcd6 - Réponse

Avant de continuer, déchargez votre iPhone en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium ion chargée peut s'enflammer et/ou exploser si elle est percée accidentellement.
  • Avant de continuer, déchargez votre iPhone en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium ion chargée peut s'enflammer et/ou exploser si elle est percée accidentellement.

  • Éteignez votre téléphone avant de commencer le démontage.

  • Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe de 3,9 mm de chaque côté du connecteur de charge Lightning.

I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

Magnus Dalen - Réponse

For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

Raymond Willems - Réponse

This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

Matthias Blab -

Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

William Kolb - Réponse

ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

Don Libes - Réponse

What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

ibrokeit - Réponse

Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

Stennett -

“cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

Carolyn Green - Réponse

Dans les étapes suivantes, vous allez détacher l'écran du châssis de l'iPhone. L'écran est composé d'une vitre et d'un joint en plastique avec des clips en métal. Peu importe l'outil que vous utilisez, assurez-vous de soulever l'écran en entier. Si la vitre commence à se séparer du plastique, comme montré sur l'image, glissez un Plastic Opening Tool entre le cadre en plastique et le corps en métal du téléphone pour retirer les clips en métal.
  • Dans les étapes suivantes, vous allez détacher l'écran du châssis de l'iPhone. L'écran est composé d'une vitre et d'un joint en plastique avec des clips en métal.

  • Peu importe l'outil que vous utilisez, assurez-vous de soulever l'écran en entier.

  • Si la vitre commence à se séparer du plastique, comme montré sur l'image, glissez un Plastic Opening Tool entre le cadre en plastique et le corps en métal du téléphone pour retirer les clips en métal.

  • Si vous remontez un écran dont le joint en plastique s'est décollé, vous devrez peut-être utiliser une fine bande d'adhésif entre le joint en plastique et la vitre afin que l'iPhone se ferme correctement.

can this separation makes the screen stop working

bassam_shallak92 - Réponse

In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

Iver søbakk -

If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

Shara Nelson - Réponse

I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

Zhian Kamvar - Réponse

  • Les deux étapes suivantes montrent comment utiliser l'iSclack, un outil formidable pour ouvrir sans problème l'iPhone et que nous recommandons d'ailleurs à ceux qui aiment bien réparer. Si vous n'utilisez pas l'iSclack, ignorez les deux étapes suivantes.

  • Serrez les manches de l'iSclack, cela va ouvrir la mâchoire à ventouses.

  • Placez le bas de votre iPhone entre les ventouses et contre la jauge de profondeur.

    • Le haut des ventouses devrait se placer juste au dessus du bouton Home.

  • Desserrez les manches pour fermer la mâchoire de l'iSclack. Centrez les ventouses et appuyez fermement sur le haut et le bas de l'iPhone.

DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

Izaac Post - Réponse

Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

Thomas Hallberg -

This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

Magnus Dalen - Réponse

I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

Andrew - Réponse

This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

ldavis - Réponse

Tenez bien votre iPhone et serrez les poignées de l'iSclack pour séparer les ventouses et enlever la vitre du boîtier arrière. L'iSclack est conçu pour ouvrir suffisamment votre iPhone en toute sécurité, sans risquer d'endommager les nappes de l'écran.
  • Tenez bien votre iPhone et serrez les poignées de l'iSclack pour séparer les ventouses et enlever la vitre du boîtier arrière.

  • L'iSclack est conçu pour ouvrir suffisamment votre iPhone en toute sécurité, sans risquer d'endommager les nappes de l'écran.

  • Décollez les deux ventouses de votre iPhone.

  • Ignorez les trois étapes suivantes et continuez à l'étape 9.

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair(place zip-tie around home button area and hold in place while using the tool). Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Réponse

The iSclack tool is a no brainer. I simply cleaned both areas were the suction cup secured to and pushed the ends of the iSclack together. Could not have been easier! The use of a zip tie did interest me, but I went the easiest way for no mistakes (iSclack). Be sure to hold the top of the phone securely, when open the bottom, which ever options you choose.

iScott - Réponse

This worked for me. Unfortunately I managed to pinch the fleshy bit of my index finger when closing shut the handles….ouch! So just be a bit careful!

debsmcd6 - Réponse

Si vous ne disposez pas d'un iSclack, utilisez une ventouse pour soulever l'écran :
  • Si vous ne disposez pas d'un iSclack, utilisez une ventouse pour soulever l'écran :

  • Appuyez la ventouse sur l'écran juste au dessus du bouton Home.

  • Faites attention à bien coller la ventouse complètement sur l'écran.

My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

cpwittenberg - Réponse

Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

Craig Matthews -

I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

Caroline Russell -

Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

Malcolm - Réponse

I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

paul -

This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

daveoline -

Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

Lukeapple1414 - Réponse

First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

iGuys -

My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

Nathan - Réponse

@malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

hari - Réponse

In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

Robert Colvin - Réponse

The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

johnsonjohnr - Réponse

Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

daveoline -

I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

matttaylor - Réponse

If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

Caroline Russell -

i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

sineglabs - Réponse

1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

seijihuzz01 - Réponse

We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

Chris Twomey - Réponse

I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

Bill Pennock - Réponse

Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

Bill Pennock - Réponse

Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Réponse

I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

stuart40plus - Réponse

Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

Don Libes - Réponse

Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

Peter Bovey - Réponse

L'écran est attaché avec des clips et plusieurs câbles plats le rattachent au reste du téléphone.  Votre but ici, c'est de désserrer les clips et d'ouvrir le téléphone juste assez pour déconnecter les câbles. Procédez doucement et prudemment pour éviter tout endommagement.
  • L'écran est attaché avec des clips et plusieurs câbles plats le rattachent au reste du téléphone. Votre but ici, c'est de désserrer les clips et d'ouvrir le téléphone juste assez pour déconnecter les câbles. Procédez doucement et prudemment pour éviter tout endommagement.

  • Assurez vous que la ventouse soit bien collée à l'écran près du bouton Home.

  • Tout en tenant votre iPhone à plat avec une main, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement la partie avec le bouton Home du panneau avant du boîtier arrière.

  • Avec un outil en plastique, retenez doucement les bords du boîtier arrière pour qu'ils s'éloignent du panneau avant pendant que vous tirez sur la ventouse.

  • Prenez votre temps et appliquez une force ferme et constante. L'écran du 5s est plus ajusté que d'autres.

Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

llcoreyll - Réponse

Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

idmadj -

Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

Timothy Fry -

It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

Rosemary McNaughton - Réponse

Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

Brian Riess -

Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

Konrad Tlatlik - Réponse

Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

Chal Miller -

Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

Thor Lancaster - Réponse

Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

W Fleming -

Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

bartonh - Réponse

Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

Kyle Rogers - Réponse

I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

adrt - Réponse

We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

Chris Twomey - Réponse

The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

leeprobert - Réponse

ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

Scott Watson - Réponse

ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

Erik Osborn - Réponse

during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

Valerie Egan - Réponse

Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

Christopher Flynn -

I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

stopsurfing - Réponse

This is a great idea! Works for me too!

JC Alice -

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Réponse

Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

Michal Pawlowski - Réponse

YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

Arthur Shi -

What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

Scott Nacke - Réponse

I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

Graham Agnew - Réponse

The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

Wolfgang Bauer - Réponse

Wish I’d read through these first.

Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

Leonard - Réponse

I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

Peter Whitworth - Réponse

We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

James M. Day - Réponse

N'essayez pas de retirer complètement l'écran du boîtier arrière car plusieurs câbles plats délicats les relient encore. Tirez sur la petite bosse en plastique pour libérer l'air dans la ventouse.
  • N'essayez pas de retirer complètement l'écran du boîtier arrière car plusieurs câbles plats délicats les relient encore.

  • Tirez sur la petite bosse en plastique pour libérer l'air dans la ventouse.

  • Enlevez la ventouse de l'écran.

Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

Scott Stathis - Réponse

Ouvrez le téléphone juste assez pour libérer le crochet en métal qui couvre le câble du bouton Home. N'ouvrez pas trop le téléphone, sinon vous risquez d'endommager le câble du bouton Home ou son emboîture. Veillez à ce que le câble reste desserré. Si le câble est tendu, c'est déjà trop ouvert. On peut utiliser la fonctionnalité Touch ID uniquement avec le bouton Home original du téléphone. Si vous déchirez le câble, l'installation d'un nouveau bouton Home va seulement restaurer les fonctions d'un bouton Home ordinaire, mais pas la fonction Touch ID.
  • Ouvrez le téléphone juste assez pour libérer le crochet en métal qui couvre le câble du bouton Home.

  • N'ouvrez pas trop le téléphone, sinon vous risquez d'endommager le câble du bouton Home ou son emboîture. Veillez à ce que le câble reste desserré. Si le câble est tendu, c'est déjà trop ouvert.

  • On peut utiliser la fonctionnalité Touch ID uniquement avec le bouton Home original du téléphone. Si vous déchirez le câble, l'installation d'un nouveau bouton Home va seulement restaurer les fonctions d'un bouton Home ordinaire, mais pas la fonction Touch ID.

  • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour dégager le support et l'enlever avec une pince.

  • Les deux étapes suivantes concernent le remontage. Sautez-les et continuez à l'étape 12.

I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

Nikunj - Réponse

Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

John Doe - Réponse

mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

Donna Godfrey -

It's there to keep it firmly in place.

Didier Daniel -

My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

lucy -

Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Gabe - Réponse

I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

Harry

Harry Jones - Réponse

Genius. Pure genius.

Aiden Baker -

I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

andy - Réponse

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

Max Powers - Réponse

You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

Iver søbakk - Réponse

Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

Michael Walker -

When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

Zac Imboden - Réponse

I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

Kris704 - Réponse

I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

Completely bummed at this point….

Alun Williams - Réponse

Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

N B - Réponse

Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

Michael Walker -

There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

Robert Smith - Réponse

Lorsque vous remonterez votre iPhone, vous devrez réinstaller l'attache du câble de capteur d'empreintes (Touch ID). Il faut passer le haut de l'attache entre la batterie et le connecteur du câble Touch ID. L'avant doit passer par-dessus le connecteur. Passez le dessus de l'attache par-dessus le connecteur de câble Touch ID en allant de gauche à droite.
  • Lorsque vous remonterez votre iPhone, vous devrez réinstaller l'attache du câble de capteur d'empreintes (Touch ID). Il faut passer le haut de l'attache entre la batterie et le connecteur du câble Touch ID. L'avant doit passer par-dessus le connecteur.

  • Passez le dessus de l'attache par-dessus le connecteur de câble Touch ID en allant de gauche à droite.

This is the hardest part lol

Bob smith - Réponse

I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

FierDancr -

1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

seijihuzz01 - Réponse

Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

seijihuzz01 - Réponse

That was fun without tweezers :)

Oscar - Réponse

Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

natzulf -

It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

copeconsultancy - Réponse

I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

Brent Hillyer - Réponse

After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

Jere -

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

Max Powers - Réponse

Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

Didier Daniel -

I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

Bill Pennock -

I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

Daniel del Saz -

On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

Jeff Clayton - Réponse

All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

Kim Mace - Réponse

I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

Cory Powell - Réponse

This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

Toby Moncaster - Réponse

I was sweting gallons during this step!

Timothy Owens - Réponse

The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

Ron Wagner - Réponse

HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

Martin Chudomel -

This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

Whitney Hourigan - Réponse

Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

Sam Lionheart -

And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

Jake Baxter - Réponse

Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour clipser la partie avant de l'attache du câble du capteur d'empreintes sur le câble du connecteur. Si l'attache ne s'enfonce pas bien, retirez-la et faites-la passer à nouveau par-dessus le câble du connecteur.
  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour clipser la partie avant de l'attache du câble du capteur d'empreintes sur le câble du connecteur.

  • Si l'attache ne s'enfonce pas bien, retirez-la et faites-la passer à nouveau par-dessus le câble du connecteur.

It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

Sheldon Carpenter - Réponse

See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

Elliot Fleming - Réponse

Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour enlever le connecteur du câble du bouton Home. Faites attention à ne séparer que le connecteur du câble de sa prise et non pas la prise entière. Celle-ci est située sur son propre câble qui est collé en bas, et si vous n'êtes pas assez prudent, vous risquez d'arracher ce câble.
  • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour enlever le connecteur du câble du bouton Home.

  • Faites attention à ne séparer que le connecteur du câble de sa prise et non pas la prise entière. Celle-ci est située sur son propre câble qui est collé en bas, et si vous n'êtes pas assez prudent, vous risquez d'arracher ce câble.

Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

Keystone - Réponse

Reassembly:

The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

seijihuzz01 - Réponse

Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

Brian Riess - Réponse

这个地方必须小心,我上次就把底部接口搞坏了,害我换个电池的同时还换了一个尾插

Zhou Lin - Réponse

Une fois que le connecteur a été dégagé, retirez le bouton Home du boîtier en vous servant du haut du téléphone comme d'une charnière. Pendant les étapes suivantes, adossez l'écran à un objet afin de maintenir un angle de 90° par rapport au boîtier. Utilisez un élastique pour garder l'écran fermement en place pendant la réparation. Cela va empêcher une pression excessive sur les câbles de l'écran.
  • Une fois que le connecteur a été dégagé, retirez le bouton Home du boîtier en vous servant du haut du téléphone comme d'une charnière.

  • Pendant les étapes suivantes, adossez l'écran à un objet afin de maintenir un angle de 90° par rapport au boîtier.

  • Utilisez un élastique pour garder l'écran fermement en place pendant la réparation. Cela va empêcher une pression excessive sur les câbles de l'écran.

  • À la limite, vous pouvez utiliser une cannette de boisson fermée pour tenir l'écran.

maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

Joop Roos - Réponse

Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

Kelly Ann - Réponse

Enlevez les deux vis Phillips #000 de 1,6 mm qui fixent le cache en métal du connecteur de la batterie à la carte mère.
  • Enlevez les deux vis Phillips #000 de 1,6 mm qui fixent le cache en métal du connecteur de la batterie à la carte mère.

I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

Luke Lin - Réponse

See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

Didier Daniel -

Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

Peter Pan - Réponse

Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Réponse

Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

Jonathan Goldsmith - Réponse

Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Réponse

Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

Vitaly Kirichenko - Réponse

I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

Bruce Peffley -

Same problem here

Mikkel Albrechtsen -

The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

Tom Gleason - Réponse

The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

Chris Wiley - Réponse

i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

Pierre - Réponse

Retirez de l'iPhone le cache en métal du connecteur de la batterie.
  • Retirez de l'iPhone le cache en métal du connecteur de la batterie.

Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

Daniel Goldschmidt - Réponse

Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

Bryan Remely - Réponse

Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

Someone Somewhere - Réponse

After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

Scott Nacke - Réponse

Utilisez le bout plat d'un spudger pour retirer délicatement le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère. Faites très attention à ne retirer que le connecteur de la batterie et non la prise de la carte mère. Si vous enleviez la prise de la carte mère, vous pourriez casser complètement le connecteur.
  • Utilisez le bout plat d'un spudger pour retirer délicatement le connecteur de la batterie de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Faites très attention à ne retirer que le connecteur de la batterie et non la prise de la carte mère. Si vous enleviez la prise de la carte mère, vous pourriez casser complètement le connecteur.

pourquoi faire?

Alexis Camper - Réponse

Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

William Stein - Réponse

Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

William Stein - Réponse

A way to skip step 17-22

I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

Rolf Enderes - Réponse

I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

Daniel Melchior - Réponse

I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) - Réponse

I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

Nancy Zan - Réponse

If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

john lawn - Réponse

Enlevez les vis suivantes, qui fixent l'écran à la carte mère :
  • Enlevez les vis suivantes, qui fixent l'écran à la carte mère :

    • une vis Phillips #000 de 1,7 mm

    • une vis Philips #000 de 1,2 mm

    • une vis Philips #000 de 1,3 mm

    • une dernière vis Philips #000 de 1,7 mm

      • Les tournevis magnétisés ne fonctionnent pas toujours avec cette vis de 1,7 mm. Faites attention à ne pas la perdre en l'enlevant.

    • C'est très important de ne pas confondre les vis de cette étape lors du remontage. L'utilisation accidentelle d'une vis de 1,3 mm ou d'une vis de 1,7 mm dans le trou en bas à droite risque d'engendrer des dommages importants au niveau de la carte mère et d'avoir pour conséquence que le téléphone ne fonctionne plus correctement.

    • Faites attention à ne pas trop serrer les vis. Si elles ne rentrent pas facilement lors du remontage, ce n'est peut être pas la bonne taille, ne forcez donc surtout pas.

Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

CLAUDE - Réponse

Hi Claude,

Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

So, I was wondering:

1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat -

Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

Ariel Drotter -

Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

Ariel Drotter -

@Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

iGuys -

Hi Everyone,

Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat - Réponse

The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

RayBob - Réponse

Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

W Fleming -

i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

William Boggs - Réponse

The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

Please change all the versions including this step.

Louis Torres - Réponse

I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

lambdahindiii - Réponse

I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

wmlee1 -

I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

Some things to look out for:

- Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

- The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

- To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

Take your time and good luck all

wilten -

I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

Matt Reier -

On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

woods81 - Réponse

You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

BJS -

You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

Drtofu -

Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

Jack -

I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

what is the correct way?

alexaamo91 - Réponse

i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

Apple logo then blue screen

kgale4 -

I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

fredhdx - Réponse

The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

mnoivad - Réponse

Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

Pete H - Réponse

I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

Daylen - Réponse

Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

bartonh - Réponse

So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

larserikkolden - Réponse

If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

Mehmet Hakan - Réponse

I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

Any suggestion?

denis.g.94 - Réponse

Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

jamesmclachlan -

Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

jamesmclachlan -

Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

James Lee - Réponse

If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

Colm Noone - Réponse

Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

Sandy Trevor - Réponse

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

yaterbob - Réponse

The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

Richard - Réponse

Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

Leonard - Réponse

Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

Leonard -

I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

patjmccarthy - Réponse

Retirez le cache de la nappe d'écran de la carte mère.
  • Retirez le cache de la nappe d'écran de la carte mère.

At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

Michael Schöttner - Réponse

Utilisez le bout plat d'un spudger pour déconnecter la caméra frontale et la nappe du capteur. Utilisez le bout plat d'un spudger pour déconnecter la caméra frontale et la nappe du capteur.
  • Utilisez le bout plat d'un spudger pour déconnecter la caméra frontale et la nappe du capteur.

The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

Magnus Dalen - Réponse

Tout en tenant l'écran d'une main, déconnectez le connecteur du câble LCD. Lors du remontage de votre téléphone, il se peut que le câble LCD sorte de son connecteur. Du coup, l'écran risque d'avoir des problèmes d'affichage quand vous le rallumerez. Dans ce cas, reconnectez tout simplement le câble et remettez votre téléphone sous tension. La méthode la plus simple est de déconnecter puis reconnecter la batterie.
  • Tout en tenant l'écran d'une main, déconnectez le connecteur du câble LCD.

  • Lors du remontage de votre téléphone, il se peut que le câble LCD sorte de son connecteur. Du coup, l'écran risque d'avoir des problèmes d'affichage quand vous le rallumerez. Dans ce cas, reconnectez tout simplement le câble et remettez votre téléphone sous tension. La méthode la plus simple est de déconnecter puis reconnecter la batterie.

When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

Sheldon Carpenter - Réponse

After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

Jules JUSTE - Réponse

And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

Jules JUSTE - Réponse

Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

Bryan Remely -

No doubt about that.

Bryan Thompson - Réponse

What can I do

i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.

NOW IT IS NOT WORKING.

HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN ANYONE HELP IN THAT

Faheem Sameer - Réponse

Enfin, déconnectez le connecteur du câble de la vitre tactile. Enfin, déconnectez le connecteur du câble de la vitre tactile.
  • Enfin, déconnectez le connecteur du câble de la vitre tactile.

When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

Pete H - Réponse

I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

ilsedorec - Réponse

Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

hermosillaignacio - Réponse

It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

Mikereilly2009 - Réponse

Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

David - Réponse

After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

Melissa - Réponse

After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

Melissa - Réponse

after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?

Thanks

Nicola - Réponse

Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

Sam Lionheart -

Enlevez l'écran du boîtier.
  • Enlevez l'écran du boîtier.

I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

IMG LINK:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

Oscar Vera - Réponse

Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

Bob smith -

Dear Oscar,

I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

Thank you very much,

Alex

Alex -

The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

Toby Parnell -

To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

Bryan Remely -

Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

WILL D -

why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

Cameron Shelley - Réponse

When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

Sheldon Carpenter - Réponse

thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

Brian Hayes -

I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

Lance - Réponse

Enlevez les deux vis qui sécurisent le cache des composants supérieurs :
  • Enlevez les deux vis qui sécurisent le cache des composants supérieurs :

    • cruciforme #000 de 4,0 mm

    • cruciforme #000 de 2,3 mm

  • Il faut impérativement placer correctement les vis dans leurs trous respectifs. Sinon cela pourrait sérieusement endommager le LCD pendant le remontage.

when reassembling, getting bracket back on can be tough. There is a tiny tab which is on the top left of the braket in the picture that can become easily bent. Make sure this is at 90 degrees to the bracket so that it can slide into a small hole to the left of the camera opening, which is used to secure the top left of the bracket to the phone.

copeconsultancy - Réponse

Orientez le téléphone comme le montre l'image, en tenant le bouton Home en haut et le haut-parleur interne en bas. Délogez délicatement le clip près de l'angle gauche du haut-parleur interne en dehors de sa cavité dans l'écran. Ne forcez pas trop car le cache du haut-parleur interne est fragile et facilement pliable.
  • Orientez le téléphone comme le montre l'image, en tenant le bouton Home en haut et le haut-parleur interne en bas.

  • Délogez délicatement le clip près de l'angle gauche du haut-parleur interne en dehors de sa cavité dans l'écran.

  • Ne forcez pas trop car le cache du haut-parleur interne est fragile et facilement pliable.

  • Avec une pincette, déplacez le cache à gauche pour l'enlever.

I have found that the shield over the speaker needs to be reassembled precisely if transferring to a new screen. There is very little clearance for the vibrating motor to whip around and if the shield is even a smidge shifted towards it, it will block it and not vibrate. Just something to check when done.

Matt Endress - Réponse

Wow, thanks for this comment, this saved my hide. I suspected that I was a bit offset after reattaching the shield and sure enough it was slightly hitting the vibrator. It took a while but I was able to get the shield all the way to the left by hooking the little metal clip on the left side of the shield under some plastic that its supposed to go under. (Recall that when you take off the shield you have to slide it out a bit to the right.) This shield and all the stuff under it is very difficult to get right when closing up the phone.

jonl -

So the ear speaker in the new screen/digitizer is not real and I have to put the original camera, sensor, etc in?

raveencarter - Réponse

Images are broken (not displayed). iFixit please fix the images.

Roman - Réponse

Enlevez le cache de l'écran.
  • Enlevez le cache de l'écran.

Ajouter un commentaire

Enlevez le haut-parleur interne avec une pincette. Si vous utilisez vos doigts, faites très attention à ne pas toucher les contacts dorés de l'écran. Les doigts couverts de gras pourraient empêcher un bon contact.
  • Enlevez le haut-parleur interne avec une pincette.

  • Si vous utilisez vos doigts, faites très attention à ne pas toucher les contacts dorés de l'écran. Les doigts couverts de gras pourraient empêcher un bon contact.

Ajouter un commentaire

Pour remplacer le haut-parleur interne, le plus simple est d'installer le haut-parleur et le cache ensemble : Placez le cache du haut-parleur interne sur le haut-parleur de façon à ce qu'ils s'emboîtent bien. Glissez le crochet gauche du cache dans l'encoche au-dessus du coin gauche supérieur de la caméra avant.
  • Pour remplacer le haut-parleur interne, le plus simple est d'installer le haut-parleur et le cache ensemble :

    • Placez le cache du haut-parleur interne sur le haut-parleur de façon à ce qu'ils s'emboîtent bien.

    • Glissez le crochet gauche du cache dans l'encoche au-dessus du coin gauche supérieur de la caméra avant.

    • Faites tourner le cache de façon à ce qu'il soit à plat sur le boîtier arrière et que les trous de vis soient alignés. Appuyez sur le cache pour le mettre en place et assurez-vous que le crochet du côté droit du cache métallique s'enclenche dans l'écran.

Trad: Para substituir o alto-falante do fone de ouvido, é mais fácil instalar o alto-falante eo suporte juntos:

Coloque o suporte do alto-falante do fone de ouvido sobre o alto-falante para que fique ajustado em sua caixa.

Deslize o gancho esquerdo do suporte no entalhe acima do canto superior esquerdo da frente frente câmera.

Gire o suporte de modo que ele fica plano na caixa traseira, alinhando os dois furos de parafuso. Pressione o suporte no lugar, garantindo que o gancho do lado direito do suporte metálico fique travado no mostrador.

Maximiliano Fischer - Réponse

This step is skipped during disassembly.

dec59us - Réponse

Cette étape nécessite le déplacement de la caméra frontale et de la nappe de capteur de votre écran.
  • Cette étape nécessite le déplacement de la caméra frontale et de la nappe de capteur de votre écran.

  • La caméra frontale et la nappe de capteur sont collées à l'écran avec de l'adhésif mou.

  • L'utilisation d'un iOpener pour ramollir l'adhésif facilitera à l'enlever en toute sécurité. Suivez notre guide d'utilisation du iOpener.

If you just want to get underneath the LCD plate, e.g. to clean water/drinks that got in there, skip to step 34. There's no need to peel off those connectors or use the iOpener heat. Here's a photo: http://imgur.com/AKlFWed

Dan Dascalescu - Réponse

In my case, my front facing camera was just foggy, and I suspected dust had got in there (was correct in the end). In this step I had to remove the shield (which you can see still attached in Step 16), which is over the camera itself. It was then possible to gently lift the camera out of it's socket and clean.

Robert Colvin - Réponse

Robert -You were able to lift the camera just by itself? I would think the cable doesn't have any extra slack to allow the camera to move without detaching the cable on one end.

Paul Astrachan -

Quick tip: if you can't afford/wait for/don't want the iOpener, filling a small portion of an ankle cut cotton sock with rice (to about the size of a golf ball), tying it closed, and putting it in the microwave for about 25-30 seconds can work just as well!

ndauphin583 - Réponse

I used a cherry stone pillow to heat up the display. I though it could be nearly the same as the iOpener one. It worked out very well

Denis Kiesel - Réponse

En utilisant le bord d'une pince ou d'un spudger en métal, tirez délicatement sur le câble du haut parleur interne pour séparer cette partie de la caméra et de la nappe de capteur de l'adhésif en dessous. Tirez uniquement sous le contact du haut parleur interne, il y a ici des capteurs et des micro puces qui pourraient être endommagés en tirant ailleurs.
  • En utilisant le bord d'une pince ou d'un spudger en métal, tirez délicatement sur le câble du haut parleur interne pour séparer cette partie de la caméra et de la nappe de capteur de l'adhésif en dessous.

  • Tirez uniquement sous le contact du haut parleur interne, il y a ici des capteurs et des micro puces qui pourraient être endommagés en tirant ailleurs.

People, we carefull while removing, IFIXIT guys are not being aware of putting in the guide about the really easy way you can brick the cable. from the contacts down there is a sensor that will come loose easily from the cable if not pryed up! i dont know why they didnt put this HUGE in the guide.

Alma - Réponse

Hernan,

I have bricked two of these cables now. Can you give me a step by step approach to removing the proximity sensor cable....I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I insert a flathead screwdriver underneath the part of the cable that doubles back and lift from there. What do you recommend?

Thank you,

sachock - Réponse

I got stuck on this step for a while. The cable itself is really thin and I thought it had a piece of plastic underneath it but this is actually part of the display assembly and not the cable.

warren5236 - Réponse

Yeah, I kept applying more heat only to realize the same thing. The gold contacts are sitting on a very thin flexible plastic strip that you need to peel up.

jonl -

Utilisez le bout d'un spudger pour séparer le capteur de luminosité interne et le capteur de proximité en dehors de leur cavité dans l'écran. Il existe un petit plastique carré et un support en métal pour le capteur de proximité. Ce support est essentiel au capteur de proximité pour fonctionner correctement.
  • Utilisez le bout d'un spudger pour séparer le capteur de luminosité interne et le capteur de proximité en dehors de leur cavité dans l'écran.

  • Il existe un petit plastique carré et un support en métal pour le capteur de proximité. Ce support est essentiel au capteur de proximité pour fonctionner correctement.

  • En remplaçant le capteur de proximité, faites en sorte que le support reste attaché à l'arrière de l'écran. S'il se détache avec l'ancien détecteur de proximité, enlevez le de l'ancien capteur proximité et utilisez un peu d'adhésif pour le recoller à l'arrière de l'écran.

This step doesn't give complete information.

The proximity sensor is adhered to the frame and must be loosened CAREFULLY and SEPARATELY before applying any pressure to the ribbon itself. It is extremely easy to tear the sensor from the ribbon, meaning when you're on a call with the phone next to your face, any touch will "press" an on-screen button. Look up images of these components to see exactly where they are placed and what they look like.

mikemckinnon - Réponse

Hello! I dont know why but I cant make the proximity sensor work. My front camera is working... I don't know what i'm doing wrong, can you help me with that?

jesusbe -

Under the proximity sensor, there is an little white sticker.

You have to put this on to the new screen,

otherwise the proximity sensor will not work properly.

To get it off, try to heat the spot (for example with the iOpener).

FaKlein - Réponse

Yep, brilliant piece of advice. I would have missed the white diffusing paper if not for this comment. Thanks!

jonl -

Thanks, I would have miss that one !

K8L -

thank you! this is a HUUUUGE note.

palatucci -

proximity sensor holder, the one with the half metal square should be centered on the two small translucent openings of the front panel otherwise it doesn't work. Mine was misaligned I had to remove and glue it again to make it work.

osmanalpay - Réponse

The bracket for the proximity sensor is critical. some more detailed pictures and guidance would be helpful here. After attempting to replace the screen with a new screen that did not come with the proximity sensor, buying a new proximity sensor bracket, etc. I finally gave up and bought another screen that included the front-facing camera and proximity sensor pre-installed.

Jay Seaman - Réponse

also, make sure you get the tiny rubber gasket that the prox sensor fits into snugly against the display. when i popped the sensor off, the gasket stayed behind, and i couldn't get the sensor to fit properly in the new display. i checked the old one again and saw the little rubber gasket that contours to the front camera lens opening on the display assembly. pulled it off with tweezers, and used it to get the prox sensor properly seated on the new display. i wish i'd taken a picture of it, but, well, my phone was in pieces in front of me.

palatucci - Réponse

I recently replaced a broken screen. The screen had shattered in the earphone area, and since the phone was new to me I didn't know about the camera clip and proximity sensor holder. These parts are just a few dollars online. I believe they are essential. My front camera has visible drift and the proximity sensor doesn't work.

saifalgianfar - Réponse

I also had to remove the tiny black rubber gasket and move it to the new display. This was not easy. I also had lots of trouble getting the proximity sensor back in place during reassembly. I seemed to have another connector near the camera that had to be reconnected, but isn’t mentioned in this guide. More pictures on a white phone might make it easier to see all the tiny parts in this area.

smacdvm - Réponse

Utilisez le bout plat d'un spudger pour retirer délicatement la partie du câble de la caméra frontale de l'ensemble de l'écran. Utilisez le bout plat d'un spudger pour retirer délicatement la partie du câble de la caméra frontale de l'ensemble de l'écran.
  • Utilisez le bout plat d'un spudger pour retirer délicatement la partie du câble de la caméra frontale de l'ensemble de l'écran.

When reassembling, I found an unknown, small black plastic piece on my work surface. It wasn't anything that I'd removed in any step. It had a curved section and a small tab, the whole thing was less that 1/4". Nothing in any of the instructions mentions it.

I finally figured out it was supposed to go just to the right (while looking at the open back of the screen unit) of the hole where the camera fits. The semi circle hugs the side of the camera when you reinstall.

This had me going nuts for about 30 minutes. Hopefully this info can help you avoid that.

Mike Yagi - Réponse

That rubber piece should be put back on the ambient light sensor (pink, purple). Like you said, it hugs against the front camera.

Didier Daniel -

I gotta say, reassembling this assembly it very fiddly and painstaking. There are lots of little parts that need to fit into other little parts while engaging yet other little parts. Seriously, and exploded diagram of all these little parts would be helpful! I took my time, used a very bright light and a magnifying hood while disassembling and reassembling and it really helped.

Sheldon Carpenter - Réponse

The small black piece is part of the front facing camera housing, can I also point out to make sure that you remove the clear plastic camera lens housing from the old screen too, and make sure that this and the small rubber housing are placed onto the new screen as these are what hold the lens, the microphone and the ambient light in place. There maybe a small amount of glue around the lens housing which needs to be removed with a sharp blade, please take care when doing this.

Roberto Enrieu - Réponse

Thanks Mike and Didier, great help !

tahiruysal - Réponse

What is that thing for? I replaced the section for my brother and his cheap repair part came without that thing to stick on and it seems to work…

Jokl92 - Réponse

Si vous rattachez le même protecteur plat sur votre nouvel écran, vous n'avez pas besoin de retirer l'ensemble de câble de la plaque LCD. Sautez cette étape. Retirez délicatement le câble de la plaque LCD pour l'enlever de l'écran. Faites attention à ne pas agripper le câble numériseur pendant que vous retiriez la caméra frontale et la nappe de capteur.
  • Si vous rattachez le même protecteur plat sur votre nouvel écran, vous n'avez pas besoin de retirer l'ensemble de câble de la plaque LCD. Sautez cette étape.

  • Retirez délicatement le câble de la plaque LCD pour l'enlever de l'écran.

  • Faites attention à ne pas agripper le câble numériseur pendant que vous retiriez la caméra frontale et la nappe de capteur.

I would skip Step 24. Why would you remove the very delicate cable assembly from the LCD shield plate only to reattach it to the same shield plate after fastening the shield plate to your new display assembly...

kevindfrye - Réponse

Indeed. I just did one today and realized it would have been fine to leave it. Better even.

Paul Jerome -

Only minor thing: It's step 25 you should skip. I replaced my wife's last night and skipped it. Skipping Step 25 was definitely a wise thing to do, since you're simply putting it right back on the same piece once you put the phone back together.

pbpope -

Does anyone know what the copper sticker is for? I accidentally ripped mine apart trying to get it off, it tore easier than paper, being that I didn't even notice I did it until I noticed it was ripped. I also thought to myself, why the heck did I remove this thing when I didn't need to. I've been trying to google it. it might be "iPhone 5S Rear Camera Cooling Copper Adhesive Sticker" but there is no reference as to how big that is. Anyway, I assembled it as normal and the phone works perfectly fine. So any help would be appreciated.

aaron - Réponse

I got the same problem with the copper sticker,it has been tore! Is anybody can explain what does it for and where can i get it?!! Because the phone not working properly. Any help would be appreciated.

Mark - Réponse

Didn`t tear it , but there is no use in removing it since reusing LCD protector later, !@#$%^ me off. :-)

eriwolde - Réponse

Why remove the copper sticker? Why not leave it attached since your are going to reuse LCD protector. Remove the home button before the camera and light sensor and save the LCD protector for last with everything attached to it.

Marshall - Réponse

I thirdly will ask for what the copper sticker is for!? I thought some kind of grounding?? I tore mine and the front facing camera is fuzzy now. It looks grainy. Almost like it isn't grounded good. ANY advice here would be appreciated.

Thanks

Kent - Réponse

Agreed. Skip step 25. I can't fathom why it's in these otherwise excellent instructions.

leanit - Réponse

Agreed - you don't need to do this step

kevinhay - Réponse

Also skipped this step.

jonl - Réponse

I tore mine also...wish I would have come here and read these helpful tips first.

Michael Huber - Réponse

The copper sticker is some kind of ground connection, and is therefore probably very important given the frequencies present inside the phone, and that the phone is itself a radio transmitter and receiver. I too followed the instructions and removed it but I was super careful and didn't tear it, and was able to reattach it. I used the spudger to smooth it and ensure that it makes good contact with the shield. It didn't even occur to me to skip the removal step! But I agree with that advice.

Mark Cousins - Réponse

Replacement Front Camera and Sensor Cable didn't have such sticker. Where this sticker should be reattached?

fedor -

step 32:while removing that piece on the LCD shield plate , I sheared that cable which is connected to the shield plate, so I skiped it and completed fixing, after that I found out that my iphone is not working .. I don't understand the problem from this cable or from the new screen ..

please help ..

email: maamoon95@hotmail.com

maamoon95 - Réponse

I phone 5s. During peeling off the shield plate from the LCD plate i damage it. What parts should i buy to replace this shield plate? lsanevich@gmail.com

Sanevich - Réponse

I did the same as the above to people what part do i need to replace to fix this. I think this is causing my touch portion to not work. My email is camgoins23@gmail.com

Cameron Goins - Réponse

I also ripped the copper cable. However when I booted the repaired phone without it, it wouldn’t boot. It was stuck in a loop. To fix this and it worked for me, hold the home button and power button until the phone display turns on again

Jon Nugent - Réponse

What is the sticky plastic that I am peeling off called I tore that. Can I replace it?

Tabatha Hurley - Réponse

Enlevez de la nappe du capteur les caches en plastique du microphone.
  • Enlevez de la nappe du capteur les caches en plastique du microphone.

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Enlevez toutes les bandes de fixation transparentes du capteur de luminosité, de la nappe et de la caméra avant. Enlevez toutes les bandes de fixation transparentes du capteur de luminosité, de la nappe et de la caméra avant. Enlevez toutes les bandes de fixation transparentes du capteur de luminosité, de la nappe et de la caméra avant.
  • Enlevez toutes les bandes de fixation transparentes du capteur de luminosité, de la nappe et de la caméra avant.

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Afin d'assurer un bon ajustement et placement des composants, assurez-vous que la nappe de la nouvelle unité s'accorde avec celle qui sort de votre iPhone. Vous aurez peut être besoin d'utiliser une pincette pour plier la section de la nappe du microphone pour que la section dorée soit à l'intérieur de la nappe et la partie argentée au dessus.
  • Afin d'assurer un bon ajustement et placement des composants, assurez-vous que la nappe de la nouvelle unité s'accorde avec celle qui sort de votre iPhone.

  • Vous aurez peut être besoin d'utiliser une pincette pour plier la section de la nappe du microphone pour que la section dorée soit à l'intérieur de la nappe et la partie argentée au dessus.

How do you put the new flex in? What the heck is the T looking piece with the 4 small holes and how does it get put in?

Richie - Réponse

um yeah....now to put it back together?

Pat Mcgibbon - Réponse

I was told that the additional flap (T-looking piece with 4 holes) is used only in manufacturing the assembly (used to line up the pieces to weld), and that it could be trimmed off, or folded out of the way... which I did with a fully successful cable replacement.

Scott Inman - Réponse

I have this tine black rubber piece with a square and a screw hole in the middle. It popped out of the camera area when I detached camera. Where does it go?

mel legrande - Réponse

Can you take a photo of the component? That'd help us identify it!

Sam Lionheart -

Possibly this component that sits under the earpiece speaker, next to the camera?

Jeff Suovanen -

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.

125 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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Sam Lionheart

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20 commentaires

I'm confused as to what you attach the top part in the last picture, the part with yellow or orange on it? Does that connect to the grounding sticker portion? And how is that removed originally, just by pulling it off?

Machek Koziol - Réponse

How do you attached the copper grounding shield to the new proximity flex ribbon?

I can't find a video showing that anywhere

jlh -

I have to second Machek Kozoil's question. What do you do with the yellow contacts? I can get the proximity sensor to work but not the camera. I assume it has to do with these yellow contacts. Any ideas? If anyone knows I will make a youtube video explaining this for others as I haven'y found one yet. In the link below I have included a picture of the factory part on top and replacement part on bottom.

http://i.imgur.com/qAfmnls.jpg

lanekrarup - Réponse

As someone has suggested, it is probably a part used in manufacturing process. The original part doesn't have it, and it seems to be cut off. And that is exactly what I did, and everything works. There is nowhere to attach it anyway so instead of folding it and trying to fit it in, you might as well just cut it off.

Stifmeister -

This is not a good guide. iFixit have been very lazy on the final, critical points regarding the EMI shielding. Without correct shielding the screen will wobble or the camera/proximity sensors will fail.

Ryan Richardson - Réponse

Yeah, I'm confused as to what I should do with those contacts. The display doesn't work now.

Phillip Howe - Réponse

To clean the camera (not replace), you only need to go up to Step 17. Just remove the bracket over the camera (two screws), then gently bend the camera out of it's socket, and clean the glass and the lens.

Total time for me 1:01:54 (start - finish)

Hardest Steps:

1. Opening the device

2. Reassembly with small connectors. Also ended up with some dust on the LCD.

Robert Colvin - Réponse

As for the two "tabs" at the bottom of the flex cable, I'd have to say that those are alignment tabs used during manufacturing and assembly. Looking at an OEM cable from a screen assembly, it looks like those were cut off prior to installation. The copper tape is a combination ground and heat sink for the front facing camera and should be transferred over to the new assembly. Give it a little heat to loosen the adhesive and it should easily detach from the back of the camera and the LCD shield

Kevin - Réponse

"To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order." Maddening. That is not helpful. I sat for hours over two days staring at the front camera assembly trying to figure out how in the world it goes onto the back of the screen properly. Taking something like that off is NOTHING like putting it back on: there are parts that need to be bent around, parts that go in certain holes, little pieces that aid in alignment that need to be placed just so and on and on it goes. Ifixit, you really fell down on the job here.

Now, let me set the record straight, if I can, for I searched and searched for answers to how to get that darned front-camera piece back in correctly and not one YouTube video or pictorial instructional says anything more than "reverse instructions." Next I'll give instructions on what to do:

John David - Réponse

Here's what you do--and I found a magnifying glass essential for all of this: First thing is you need to make sure you have three little pieces that are essential for the realignment of everything: two hard-plastic pieces (a circular one and a rectangular one) that will hold the camera and the proximity sensor respectively, and a soft-rubber piece that goes over some kind of sensor at the end of the proximity sensor cable. The plastic camera holder will be kind of loose in its slot until the end, so don't worry about that. Each piece can only go on one way that will enable the assembly to fit together the correctly.

First put the camera holder over the lens so it fits into two slots. Take note of its position in relation to the spot it will occupy in the camera window and place it in that spot. Second, put the plastic rectangular piece over the proximity sensor so it fits. PS: the lens-holder is loose, but the square piece will stick and stay over the sensor--in the correct orientation.

John David -

--By the way, I thought the little reflective piece on the end of the sensor cable was what fit into the window to the right and below the camera window--it's not. What goes in there is a protruding rectangular section on the cable that has no reflective surfaces. The reflective part at the end actually ends up fitting next to the camera.--

Third, take the rubber piece off of the end of your sensor cable on your old camera assembly, and place it over the square reflective part at the end of the sensor cable on your new camera. If you look at the end of the sensor cable through a magnifying glass you'll see that next to the reflective piece are two little bumps that stick out. The rubber piece has a rectangular window that fits over the reflective piece, and a rubber "bar" that extends out over the two bumps--that's the orientation of the rubber piece. It should stay once pushed on with a fingertip.

John David -

Fourth, observe that the mic cable will bend back on itself and the circular mic will fit into a hole in a rubber piece that is already connected to the back of the lcd (right under the camera window).

Now that you know where everything goes, fit the mic into its hole then bend the whole assembly over on itself so the camera is lined up with its window. Then bend the sensor cable back under and--this is key--fit the end of the cable with the rubber piece right up next to the right of the camera holder. It is very tricky getting everything to stay where it's supposed to. Also you should have put the tape on the new camera assembly and should be ready to stick it to the back of the lcd (that tape only goes on one way, too, but that's too much to go into now--figure it out!). Do everything at once (bend back cables, orient pieces, line up stuff, stick down tape) and viola!, you're ready to add on the ear speaker . . .

John David -

Thanks a lot man, you encourage me to try it myself. "To reassemble follow in reverse order" scared me from taking my iPhone apart.

pingpong246 -

I had to replace this part on my 5S because the proximity sensor wasn't working; camera and light sensor were working fine

I ordered like 7 of these on ebay and I think none of them were fully working; on five of them the light sensor wasn't working (even after a hard reset the auto brightness switch wasn't available), one even prevented the phone from booting (google for red screen on boot); the only one on which the light sensor was indeed working, had a bad camera (image was blurred) and this was the only one that had a soft spongy adhesive on the rear of the connector like the original

I start to think that the ones on ebay (price from 3 to 8 £) haven't passed some kind of quality control and might fix one issue but give you another one for sure (that most people won't realize)

Jacopo Scarpellini - Réponse

step 32:while removing that piece on the LCD shield plate , I sheared that cable which is connected to the shield plate, so I skiped it and completed fixing, after that I found out that my iphone is not working .. I don't understand the problem from this cable or from the new screen ..

please help ..

email: maamoon95@hotmail.com

maamoon95 - Réponse

That one you sheared off is the electrical grounding for the front camera assembly. I have sheared it once as well. However the phone was working, only the front-facing camera didn't. I assume that the other parts around it which use the grounding from the same cable didn't work either. My solution was to buy and fit a new front camera assembly.

Tamas Korodi -

Wow that took maybe 4 hours and was fiddly but I did it and everything works! Thanks

Georgina Collins - Réponse

On my phone, when I replaced the screen none of the proximity cable devices worked. I thought maybe I'd screwed up the installation so I temporarily put a screen on which came with all the small items already installed. Same thing. Is it likely that I somehow damaged the connector on the iPhone motherboard itself!?

Dave Fraser - Réponse

Hola, necesito Ayuda!!, después de seguir los pasos muy al pie de la letra solo hasta el punto 17 para limpiar la cámara frontal ya que esta era borrosa, volví a armar el iphone cerciorandome de que todos los conectores quedaran bien unidos, pero al encender mi iphone solo muestra el logo y no carga, así una y otra vez, alguien que por favor sepa que pasó?, que hice mal?, y me pueda ayudar con una solucion gracias!

Andrés León - Réponse

i want to know the connection of proximity sensor because my sensor is not working

Faisal Razzaque - Réponse

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