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Kenmore elite frige not cooling

Hello. I have a Kenmore elite fridge, that isn't cooling. It's a little over a year old, shouldn't be anything major.

Called local repair guy, paid a $30 service call, said was out of freon. I ordered bullet piercing value and got can stop leak with freon. After hooking everything up, the gauge was reading it has freon. So paid service call for nothing lol.

Looking for advice on what to do next. No error codes, fan and compressor are running, just not cooling.

Model number is 795.74023.411

Thanks in advance, great site. Been reading a lot of articles on here.

Répondu ! View the answer J'ai le même problème

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Was thinking about just ordering a thermostat, seeing if that's the problem. Hate to start buying unneeded parts, until find right one.

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Have the same problem and like to see if any one found a solution I bought mine from sears and can get nowhere by talking to them plz help

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I have the 795.74022.411 Kenmore Elite Refrigerator temp varies between 39-53 degrees. The freezer 15-30 degrees?

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I have same model and it just stooped working today - any fixes - its 2 years old - think LG makes it for them

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I spent $3k on a Kenmore Elite model $ 79574023 and the refrigerator and freezer stopped working yesterday. The Sears repair tech failed to show up today after I took the day off and rescheduled for Friday. In the meantime, I have a refrigerator that doesn't work and family coming in for the Christmas holiday.

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Hi @zookster ,

What is not cooling the fridge, the freezer or both?

Which fan is running? The evaporator fan, the compressor fan or both?

The evap fan will not run with the doors open -don't want to blow cold air out the door - so you'll have to listen for it running. Close and open door and listen if you can hear it start / stop with door close / open.

Is the evaporator getting icy cold? It is behind a panel in the freezer compartment as is the evap fan.

Here is a link to the parts for your fridge. It is handy as it gives an idea of the general location of the parts

Update (02/12/2018)

Hi @zookster ,

I know you said that you checked the refrigerant but do you know that for the Kenmore Elite series appliances (refrigerators) that there is a warranty of Five Years on the Sealed Refrigerant System and Ten Years on the Linear Compressor This is not as good as it sounds. After 1 year you still have to pay for the labour to get it repaired under warranty, just not the parts. Something to think about if you find that the compressor is faulty.

Here is the link to the warranty provisions. Scroll down to refrigerators

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Will check the parts today, and let you know.

The fan I checked is behind the fridge, along with compressor. Both are running but the lines aren't cold to the touch. Like the compressor is running but not engaged.

Neither side is cold btw.

Thanks for the link Jayeff. Appreciate your help and will post what I find out.

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Hi @zookster ,

If neither side of the compressor is cold, are the condenser coils warm or hot?

If not it means that there is no refrigerant being pumped through the system, so perhaps the compressor is faulty. You did say that you checked the freon. Did it have the correct pressure?

If the condenser coils are hot then you'll have to check if the evap unit and fan is iced up or not.

The evap fan blows cold air throughout the freezer and also into the fridge as well. If the evap fan is not working the freezer will be cold near the evap unit but not elsewhere in the freezer.

If the unit and fan is iced over, this means that either the defrost heater is not working, the defrost timer is not working, the control board is faulty etc.

The defrost cycle varies between makers. It usually occurs once every 8 -12 hours of the fridge running and lasts for about 20-30 minutes. The compressor is switched off as are the fans and the heater turned on. This allows any ice to melt and drain away. The temp in the freezer goes up to 32 deg F (0 deg C). when it reaches this usually the ice has already melted, due to heater, and the compressor is started again to drive the freezer back down to 0 deg F (-20 deg C) with the evap fan running

If the evap unit is not iced over, check that the evap fan works (mark a fan blade, close the door for a few moments then open door and see if marked blade has shifted. Also check that the evap unit is icy cold. BEWARE you can literally stick to it with your fingers if you touch it and it is working correctly. Wear dry gloves to feel.

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I put my cell phone on record with a light then shut the refrigerator doors, to verify that the evap. fan is turning.

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I own an appliance repair company. Here is the straight scoop: It is the LG LINEAR COMPRESSOR that is failing. It is not a 'sears' problem, it is LG. Yes, Kenmore is a trademark of sears, but it is still the LG compressor that is failing. Here is how to proceed: Get a new compressor AND condenser AND FILTER DRIER under LG or Sears warranty and call a trusted 'sealed system' capable appliance repair person. They will charge you about $300-$500. to change it out. Unless there is a successful class action or you are ready to lawyer up and go after them yourself, this is your only course of action.

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I almost forgot one thing...if you chose to simply throw the fridge away, STILL get your free parts under warranty and you can sell them for about $300-400 on eBay!

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I have the same issue. I found the technical papers with some primitive troubleshooting procedures but enough to get an idea of what is going on. It says to check the voltage level on the main controller board connector to the compressor, “CON201”. With the compressor connector disconnected, unplugging the fridge and pluggin it in again and measure the the voltage on “CON201”. After 30 seconds it should go to 200VAC. Mine did not. The measurements were jumping all over from about 12VAC to 70VAC. The sheet recommended testing the voltage with the compressor connector connected and after 10 minutes check the voltage on “CON201” (you will have to push test leads into back of connector to make contact). It should be 80VAC. Mine was not. It was all over the place like the other measurement. So the next morning the fridge is suddenly operating normally again. I decided the check the running voltage at “CON201” again. It is still jumping all over but this time it is jumping up above 100VAC. Don’t know how long it will work and I don’t trust it. It may have been stuck in defrost mode but the only way to fix the issue seems to be to replace the main controller. Getting the part will take days as most places don’t stock it.

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Thanks allot for the info!

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No fix for mind either, it's the compressor which is an epidemic on these LG refrigerators. They only last anywhere between one to three years. And like stated above no one wants to work on them. I did get a local repair guy to come out as soon as he looked at it he said throw it away and buy a new one. He said Samsung and LG make the worst refrigerators on the market with the least warranties. He said I know it's horrible news, I would love to take your money, but you need to cut your losses and buy a reliable refrigerator. I was advised putting any money into my LG refrigerator would be a waste because it would develop the same problem in short-order again. He said purchase either GE, Whirlpool, or Frigidaire. I opted for a new Frigidaire with a 5 year warranty

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Mi nevera es igual y se le ha cambiado 3 veces el compresor ahora volvio a fallar y cambiaron ambos evaporadores. Trabajando bien hasta ahora.

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Actually, I LOVE to work on them. Fast $500 and regular work every 2-3 years.

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We are on our second Kenmore junk elite model 795.740 31 cu ft. First stopped cooling with no error codes, called home warranty service and the sent Sears out. What a cluster. They ordered parts to test the Freon, one week, then more parts, two more weeks, fianally said it was a Freon leak somewhere in the cabinet somewhere would not be able to repair the unit. One month without a fridge and home warranty paid most of the money to replace. We purchased the same unit again. My wife is not happy as less than 3 years later we are in the same situation and waiting for the sears third party to come out and tell us what’s wrong. No error codes. Top is near 40-47 and freezer below is high 20s.

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Same problem here. Refrigerator is slightly more than a year old. Completely stopped cooling. Couple hundred dollars of food trashed or given away. Sears repairman came out and said the compressor needed to be replaced. Ten days waiting on parts. On the seventh day the refrigerator started working again. Technician finally returned to finish the job. Everything operates normally with no error codes. Says there is nothing he can do and to call back if it happens again. Yeah.... right. Another $95 bill and nothing to show for it. It appears to be a common occurrence for these refrigerators to stop working for no known reason, and Kenmore has no fix for it.

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I believe the refrigerator keeps getting stuck in a defrost mode. By placing it in and out of the demo mode I am able to get the refrigerator working again (sometimes for a few days and sometimes for a few weeks). This is done by depressing the refrigerator temperature and icemaker buttons simultaneously for five seconds. I also opted to purchase the one-year Sears warranty for $200. Now they are on the hook for parts, labor, service calls. If they can’t fix it, they replace it. Unfortunately, this was the only real option I had at the time.

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I bought my Kenmore elite model 795.75043 last November 2018. In August 2019 the temp started to climb in the fridge and freezer but in a day or two it started working again. The tech came out and said nothing was wrong. I did pay for extended warranty service knowing these French door refriges have issues. On Dec 14 the temp started to climb again. The fridge went up to 60 and the freezer to 40. Needless to say stuff started to melt. The ice in the ice make started melt and drip through the ice dispenser chute. Removed all the food and placed it in our garage refrig. Two days later (today) it started to work again and the temps are now normal. So is it the defrost mode not turning off? I did notice the inside edge of the door was very warm but not now. The tech of coming tomorrow. Most likely they will not do anything, again. Thanks to all.

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Wow…. sounds like were all in the same boat here, approx 4 years ago we purchased a Kenmore elite fridge and just last month the 2nd compressor went out just the same. Turns out that when the sears tech came and installed the new compressor the first time, he informed us that it was a bad design from LG and that the condensing coil had to also be changed out at the same time with the compressor due to the fact that the condensing coil was made out of aluminum and not steel. The problem with the condensing coil being aluminum is that over time, the refrigerant starts to break down the condenser (being aluminum) and the small contaminants start to float within the system and that can cause the capillary tube to become plugged and not cycle any refrigerant within the system so cooling effect doesn’t take place. Just last week I decided to put my refrigerant gauges on the system and exactly what i had expected, when i checked out the pressures on the gauges the high side gauge was reading approx 110 PSIG so i knew that the compressor was trying to push the gas, and the low side was in the negative side where it was actually in a vacuum. Just to inform most of you out there a refrigeration system is never supposed to run into a vacuum state, it might be around 5PSI and that would be if the coils were frozen but never into a vacuum, especially when the evaporator and freezer coils are as warm as they are. And so when I see that the low side of the system is in a vacuum state and the output side of the compressor is reading 110 PSIG pressure then there is a restriction some where in the system. usually at the front side of the cap tube therefor not allowing the gas to boil off in the coils and driving down temps to get cold. One more thing to think about, if by some chance the service tec didn’t use dry nitrogen to pressurize and flush out debris within the system after installing the new compressor then the system could still be contaminated and another failure is bound to happen. Looks like i’ll be repairing my own fridge since i cant depend on a sears tec to get it right the first time especially after purchasing this unit with a warranty. So looks like i’ll be disassembling the new compressor from the lines and back flushing the entire system with FJC 2032 Flush Solvent and dry nitrogen. Dry nitrogen is used instead of the 404A gas so as not to send it into the environment (Would really hate to get caught doing this and loose my refrigeration licence) If you get the chance check out this Utube video (Clearing a blockage - J D Nel Refrigeration) to understand exactly what needs to be done to remove the blockage and hopefully put your fridge back into service.. And yes one more thing to remember, always make sure that your fan and condenser is as clean as possible so that your compressor doesn’t take a chance of running to hot and cooking the oil inside the compressor and plugging up the refrigerant lines.

Update (12/04/2019)

WOW!! what a problem we’re all facing with this fridge design “french door” Anyways, believe it or not the real problem with this fridge design is not the compressor, its the way the refrigerant is being distributed to the refrigerator evaporator. I’ve posted already in explanation “ how a refrigeration system works, and ways to clean out the entire system after a compressor burnout” Lets see, first off, the problem was that when they designed this fridge the manufacture installed an aluminum condenser coil either to save money or who knows why?? Anyway when this fridge runs for awhile the refrigerant and or mineral oil starts to break down this coil and cause contaminants to float within the system, sure the filter/dryer catches these particles but over time this dryer starts to become plugged and pose problems for the entire system. The best thing I found out to do is to call Sears and have a service tec. come out and change out both the compressor and the condenser coil (new design is made of steel now)at the same time and also install a new filter dryer (which they should do anyways) so that you can get these parts under the warranty. Then making %#*@ sure that he or she either blows out the entire system with nitrogen or even better yet flush out the system with FJC 2032 Flush Solvent to get rid of these particles. My fridge was still not cooling perfectly, so what I ended up doing was cutting open the system and changing out the 3-way refrigerant valve (this valve supplies gas for both the refrigerator and the freezer cooling evaporators) it either sends gas to the fridge or the freezer depending on which one needs cooling at the time. And also changing out the capillary tube that feeds the fridge evaporator, this cap tube is sized for both freezer and fridge to run at the same time which runs good when their both running. But what happens is that when fridge is calling for cooling and not the freezer this cap tube being the size it is and only one of the tubes flowing refrigerant at the time overloads the compressor and it really struggles to push this small amount of gas. Long story short, I ended up correcting this problem with cutting open the back of my refrigerator to get access to this capillary tube and removing it and installing the next size tube to help relieve this pressure and it’s worked great ever since…. The original size of this tube is roughly 0.031 I.D. so I changed it to the next size 0.040 I.D. and one more thing like I said in one of my other posts is that when i originally put my refrigeration gauges on the system I was getting a reading of 110 gauge pressure on the high side and pulling itself into a vacuum on the low side. This type of pressure you definitely don’t want to see especially with it running into a vacuum state. You see with this compressor running in the vacuum state it gets absolutely no cooling (or a slight amount of refrigerant flood back known as super heat to keep this compressor cool) My refrigerator now runs around 36 degrees with it set to 34 and the freezer runs at around -10 degrees. With the gauge reading now around 110 psi on the high side which is good, but now i’m getting around 7-10 psi on the low side definitely GREAT!! and this unit now purrs like a kitten.. And compressor stays nice and cool!!!

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Hello can you send photo of the valve you replace

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are you located in new jersey if so i would like you to service my kenmore

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my email is garylety@gmail.com if not can you please recommend somone other than sears

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How do we put in & take out of demo mode??

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LOL...Something is still wrong if you have to increase the cap tube size.

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My Kenmore Elite refrigerator is having the same problem. It’s 2 years old and I’ve been advised to trash it. Does anyone what it? I feel sick about it going to the landfill. It’s in awesome shape other than the compressor doesn’t work as per two repairmen!!!! Model 795.74023.412. Also, there’s a class action lawsuit for these refrigerators that I’ve signed up for, some of you may want to do the same:

https://www.classaction.org/lg-refrigera...

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Thx. Filed a claim also.

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I don’t know if this has anything to do with my refrigerator working again, but after a week of no cooling or freezing I put it in and out of demo mode a couple of times. The next day it started working and has worked now for several months. I don’t know, but it doesn’t cost anything to try and see if it works.

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I did this, and nothing happened.

Then I unplugged the power from the wall,

and then re-inserted the power plug to 120 VAC.

Then the compressor and evaporator fan started

running!

Only problem, is the 20u450VAC starting cap is

probably still bad, since it was only reading 33VAC,

instead of the the 80VAC called out in the manual.

I'm going to Grainger in the morning and see about

a 40u450VAC cap, and see if this will "kick-start"

the compressor better. The only good part is the '

compressor windings must still be intact, even after

running at this low voltage, and being excessively HOT!

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Kenmore elite less than 2 years old stopped cooling/freezing a few months ago. We called a tech out. He said the control panel needed to be replaced so I ordered a new one. The day it arrived the fridge started working again after I put it in and out of demo mode several times over several days like someone else here suggested. We decided to hold onto the part for a little bit. A month and a half later and it stops cooling/freezing again. Got a tech out to look at it and he pulled the drawer completely off and said there was no freeze pattern which means the compressor isn’t working. The compressor is covered by Sears, but not the labor. In the meantime we have bought a Whirlpool. (Just an FYI, the Sears 5 year warranty was over $1000 so we didn’t get it. The Lowe’s and Home Depot warranties are less than $300 for 5 years and you get 30% of it back if you don’t use it. Also when you purchase the water filters after the first one, you can submit the receipt and get half your money back during the 5 years.) I still have a large piece of junk sitting in the garage that I’m trying to figure out what to do with.

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It is common for these refrigerators to have bad relays , this is why it is running erratic, and probably not sending power down to the compressor, someone who knows what they are doing can replace the relays. I do this all the time, I am a appliance technician.

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No, GE fridges have the bad relay on the 942 board, NOT the LG/Elite models. I almost NEVER replace an LG control board for not cooling issues, Almost 99.99% the bad linear compressor.

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How do we take it out or put on demo mode??

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Class Action Suit:

https://www.classaction.org/lg-refrigera...

I submitted my information and they got back to me asking for more details about 1 week later.

Good luck! Sears/Kenmore/LG have been unethical and deceptive with these refrigerators. Companies cannot take advantage of their customers like this, it is just completely unacceptable. If they made a bad product, they need to own that 100%.

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Thank you! I'm hoping Kenmore (or someone) can make this right. I'm NOT impressed with my Kenmore Elite Refrigerator nor their lack of any service whatsoever. I do, however, appreciate your assistance Jeanette!

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Yes, completely agree. This refrigerator has many known problems. The compressor breaks about 18 months. The tech guy this year who fixed my Refrig was great, but had to have 5 fixes. He is not at fault. It is a guessing situation. Calls LG constantly. This is second time in 3 years. Latest repairs, new compressor installed 2x, upgrade to circuit system to help w/ known problem, new refrigerator coils, Freon leaking 2x, proper balance between Refrig and Freezer off. I know way more then I’d like about Refrigerators.

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Well I replaced the compressor in mine and it worked for about 10 months and now is broken again. This time the problem is that the refrigerator is not cooling sufficiently (55-58 deg) but the freezer seems ok (5 deg). Evaporator fan in the fridge is running and the evaporator coil in fridge is only slightly frosted (first few inches). The high and low line pressures when compressor is running are about 125 and 7 respectively, which is about where they were when the compressor was changes (100/0 according to my notes). So the compressor has not failed this time, but for some reason the refrigerator evap is not cooling. I suppose it could be a restriction or maybe the 2-way valve that supplies the two evaporator circuits is not operating properly. I assume it is not worth fixing again unless someone knows otherwise.

So… I am considering buying a new refrigerator. How can I make sure not to get another model that uses this problematic LG compressor? Mine was branded Kenmore.

Btw, I did sign on to the class action. Thanks for that info!

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I see that LG has recently increased their warranty to cover 5 YEARS LABOR!!! This will apply to any refrigerator purchased in the past 5 years and should help a lot of people experiencing this compressor problem. Unfortunately, I cannot get any info as to whether it will apply to Kenmore branded LG systems like mine. I suspect it will not. Here is the updated warranty info: https://lgcommunity.us.com/discussion/38...

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My latest technician has been very helpful, but my refrigerator was down for 6 weeks. Came to house 5x. He told me he had a French Door made by LG and put is to the curb. Same answer last year with other technician. He suggested getting a GE Refrigerator. They are working on these all day.

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Had the sears repair guy visit regarding kenmore elite fridge not cooling only 3 years old. Compressor shot ordered new one under warranty. Call out fee $99 wait 3-4 weeks for technician to return and install new compressor another $260. LG junk never again. All the while sears try and up sell monthly warranty on all your kenmore purchased items for $50 a month.

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Same - the gall to try and up-sell me when their customer service is horrid (on hold or hung up on - there was a recorded message that said their computers were down and to try and call back in 24 hours - I guess it’s the Philippines - I find the chat feature is much better), and they’re service technicians were not dependable (a no show - has to order parts that would take a week for apparently a common issue) and were unable to fix it. I felt bad that they had a 3 hour repair job full on soldering - and it still didn’t fix it

For LG to make such bad refrigerators and make the repair like surgery - where the labor is over $500 - my fridge is still not cooling - and I’m close to buying another fridge - I’m just hoping that they will honor their Warranty - 4 appointments geeesh

It’s so crazy that they had no idea that selling me something that broke that they could’ve fix did not make me want to pay them a monthly fee

Just needed to vent

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Kenmore Elite 795.7402 is notorious for linear compressor issues. Buyer Beware!!!!

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The quote was $750 to repair, so we scrapped it. During diagnostic appt, tech tries to sell extended warranty. It's a shady business practice at best. Don't buy from Sears. They have a poor reputation for quality and service.

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Has anyone found the fix to this? Is it really the compressor that goes bad? I read a comment on here where the voltage was all over the place during testing the voltage on the compressor. Mine is doing the same thing but on the fridge diagram it states to replace the main control board if it fails that test. I ordered a new one for 180 off ebay. Hopefully that fixes it but i have high doubts it will due to reading this last comment regards the compressor. This is a huge flaw on these refrigerators. We shouldnt have to take a hit on food expenses and repairs. We all need to get together for a lawsuit. Everything is working on my fridge its just not cooling. Fans lights bottons no error codes. Compressor runs constantly without kicking out. Compressor lines are warm to the touch and condenser coils are not getting hot like they should. Please help if anyone has an answer to the issue. Im already leaning towards the compressor failing. Thanks to all in advance

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Well I can tell you that in my case the compressor voltage was indeed all over the place and the board was fine. The compressor was the problem. It had the exact same symptoms you describe. This circuit board does some strange things to the drive voltage. Seems to ramp up very slowly, then sense the load and adjust continuously. I guess they have to go to extremely complicated designs to get a huge unit like this with two evaporators to run on such a tiny amount of refrigerant (4.75oz). Even after I replaced the compressor it took hours for the pressures to stabilize and about 24 hours before the thing cooled properly. It has been working perfectly for a couple months now (34 fridge and 0 freezer holding steady), but from what I've read I don't expect it to last too long.

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There really is no fix. I bought my refrigerator for $2200 3 yrs ago. Decent techs tell you the problem. Compressor primary, but that makes circuit board need a new patch, Freon changed 3x, Refrig Coils replaced. My tech guy this year was at my house 5x, he is constantly on the phone with LG. That is what Kenmore Elite means, made by another co. Paid $270 14 months ago and $450 this time. Could not even stay in my house. Expect this. That is how it is being handled.

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Hate to mention, but look up BBB and Consumer Affairs. You will see thousands of the same problems. It is not just Sears. Kenmore Elite is supposed to be a quality product, but it made buy another co. In the case LG. Another co that supposedly makes high end quality products. Nothing is being done. We get to pay the expense about every 12-18 months. Yesterday, at Loews, LG Refrig selling for $2,800. Same issue, same problems.

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Thanks for the heads up on the class action suit. I just submitted my information/situation.

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You're welcome! I plan to let as many people as possible know about that so LG really has to pay!!! Bunch of crooks selling garbage

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Thanks also added my details. My 2016 Kenmore "not so" Elite compressor failed in 2018, replaced $99 after many weeks waiting for repairs through Sears. I am waiting for it to happen again soon. And they have the nerve to try and up sell extended warranties in person by the Tech and over the phone.

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Good luck. All technicians tell me compressor will fail in 12-24 months. Look up thru Better Business Bureau and Consumer Affairs. Calling Sears or LG, is an endless headache. Expect to be transferred all over the Philippines and get no answers, except being referred back to pay $50 a month to insure your appliances. Then when your refrigerator breaks you pay 1/2 price. Sound absolutely wrong, well it is.

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Okay, first, is the freezer working, but not the fridge? If so, the vent is clogged. Air flows through a vent in between the fridge and freezer. Two things to do would be to defrost the system by turning it off. After it is fully defrosted, clean it, open the vent and clean it, check for anything that could block air flow. Plug it back in and feel for air flow, especially between then fridge and freezer.

Also, listen to hear the compressor kick off. If you do not hear it go off, then you may need a kickstarter. It's like a giant capacitor you attach to the fridge's compressor to get it to turn over. You can order one online or buy one at a fridge parts replacement store.

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I just checked for what Jayeff mentioned earlier.

I can hear the fan running in the fridge, and it shuts off when door is opened.

The one in the rear freezer panel, is not running at all. Would this not let it cool at all, or would just build up ice?

Neither side is cooling, to the other guys trying to help. This model doesn't have the relay on compressor like most do.

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What did you find out? My compressor is running also but not cooling anything...

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I have the same problem. So I'm interested in knowing what you found out as well.

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No no-no. This compressor does NOT have a capacitor. Unbelievable ignorance here. Everyone thinks they are an expert.

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Any updates? We have the same issues. Brought it to repair store and they said it may be the mother board.

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I replaced the main board but it didn't help. Fridge is still down. I already bought new fridge and this is my garage project. When I fix it I'll get rid of it.

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@Melissaann501 did you get any news on possible solutions?

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No. There is no one in our area who fixes LG or Samsung made refrigerators. We took the next available repair appointment with Sears which is Wednesday, January 9. I wish I had better news. As soon as we get an answer from them, I will post.

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So, did your warranty cover the cost of replacement? The inside of the manual states a 10 year warranty on the compressor.

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Any possible solutions?

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After all the headaches with sears and spending hours and hours and i mean over 8 hrs on the phone every single say being transfered from department to department, i gave up. Compressor and freon was covered under warranty but they wanted 600 for labor so i decided to buy a compressor online and install it myself. 180 for compressor and 30 dollars in silver rods needed for brazing the lines.. and some freon… i have everything done on my own for under 250. Fridge works fine now but it seems to run 45 mins at a time to an hour and only shut off for 4-5 min or so and then compressor kicks back on… any ideas? This is a really horrible fridge….. we love it but hate it at the same time…. i dont think i remember it running that long and only 4-5 min rest time for the compressor….doesnt seem right to me. Any advice will be appreciated…

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You could have gotten the replacement compressor and drier from Sears for free under warranty and still installed it yourself. That's what I did. They shipped the parts to my house. Just an fyi in case others are considering this route. It is a difficult job and experience and special tools are needed.

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The compressor should have a 10 year warranty. I had mine for 5 years and it was covered. The labor isn’t covered and it cost me $380 and some change to fix it.

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Sears went out of business shortly after I bought the fridge. I bought the extended warranty for $500 too! Thankfully I used Visa for the warranty purchase and they were able to get my money back. LG refused to honour the manufacturer warranty, said it didn't cover it because it was from Sears.

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If your refrigerator is a Kenmore Elite manufactures by LG, LG is not responsible for any of the warranty. Sears is responsible because sears sold it with the Kenmore name Sears gives a 10 year warranty on the sealed system parts only. You still have to pay labor and trip charges.

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The sealed system has 5 year warranty and the compressor has 10 year warranty. But I am praying they honor fixing the sealed system as my 5 years was up February 19, it quit working in April and they are taking over a month to get out to my house =(

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Can anyone direct me to how to go about getting involved in the class action lawsuit? This is crazy. We are reasonable people, spending our hard earned money on a piece of junk. I don't think our concern is getting money for nothing. That's what Sears did. Most of us want nothing more than a refrigerator that works. Cooling and freezing makes us happy and I don't think it's an unacceptable request.

Thank you for any direction or advice you can provide.

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Lauri waldvogel, if the refrigerator you bought from Sears has the Kenmore Elite on the front of it, it is manufactured by LG but Sears is responsible to the warranty. They give a ten year warranty on the sealed system parts only. You’ll have to pay labor. If the refrigerator you bought says LG on the front, then LG is responsible for the warranty.

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My owners manual says sealed system is 5 years and compressor is 10 years

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Do not but a French door refrigerator by Kenmore Elite (actual manufacturer is LG) . The compressor is a known problem. It costs over $2K and is known to break down with 18 months. Fixed, same issue, as compressor has not been recalled or changed. Have dealt with this 2x in 3 years. All the decent technicians tell you, it will break again or just get rid or it. It is that bad. Customer Service takes hours of calls, thrown all over the world. Last year, no working refrigerator for 1 month, this year + Corona

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The compressor is warranty for 10 years. Sealed system is 5 year warranty

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Hi @Linda McCoy

Is it more than or less than 5 years old?

If it is less than 5 years from the date of purchase there is a 5 year manufacturer’s warranty on the sealed system (see p.3).

You will have to pay for any labour but not for any parts that are found to be faulty.

If the problem turns out to be the compressor then there is a 10 year manufacturer’s warranty on it.

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Yes, my owners manual tells me this

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Repair guy says it’s the Freon and can’t be fixed.

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Hi @Linda McCoy ,

OK but if the leak is in the sealed system then the system should be fixed even if it means replacing it e.g. if in the piping or the condenser coils etc then that particular section needs to be replaced. If in the piping internal to the refrigerator and unable to be accessed, then to my mind the refrigerator has to be replaced as I realize that this area of the fridge cannot be fixed.

The warranty doesn't differentiate where the problem is, just if there is a problem or not with the sealed system, if you know what I mean.

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@jayeff I am praying they will help me out, as my 5 years was up on February 19th

And it broke in April and they can’t get to my house till May 27th =(

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Is your freezer cold and operating, but the refrigeragtor is warm, replace the frreezer light switch!

This switch controls the cooling to the refrigerator section. Its an $8 dollar part. Or , simply pry it out of the casing and unplug it. You should hear the motor start. Hope this helps you!

Garrett.s.daniels@gmail.com

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The entire refrigerator is not cooling . Repair guy said it’s out of Freon and that’s in an unreachable part of the refrigerator. Or at least it would be super expensive to fix.

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Freezer and refrigerator is warm...

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@Linda McCoy ,

How old is the fridge?

Check the warranty details because if it is an Elite model it has a longer warranty on the "sealed system" than a standard fridge. Not sure but maybe 10 years instead of 5 years

The sealed system includes the compressor, evaporator unit, condenser and associated piping etc. Be aware though that it only has a warranty on the parts not the labour.

If it is in an unreachable part of the fridge it is still covered.

If you purchased an Elite model you paid for the privilege of having a longer warranty on the sealed system

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@jayeff it is an Elite, so that gives me hope!! Thank you

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@Linda McCoy ,

Apologies

I have given you false hope.

It is the compressor only that has the 10 year warranty.

The sealed system only has the 5 years warranty

Scroll down to Kenmore Elite Home Appliances

Although having said that, failing 1 month out of warranty for such a failure should be taken into account by the manufacturer on what they consider to be a "quality" product.

Once again sincere apologies.

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Hi @Larry Bounds

How old is the refrigerator?

On many fridges the sealed system has a manufacturer’s warranty of 5 years on parts (not labour). The rest of the fridge usually only has the 12 months. Check the warranty on your model (look in the user guide) to see what it says.

The sealed system includes the compressor, evaporator, condenser, filter dryer and associated pipes etc.

If the problem is anywhere in this area except the pipes where they are encased in the cabinet insulation then it can be fixed.

The refrigerant would have to be extracted, the faulty part replaced, the sealed system needs then to be evacuated (vacuum created) and new refrigerant put in and then the system needs to be tested to make sure that the pressures, temperatures etc, are OK and then resealed again.

If it is no longer under warranty then it is more a decision of whether it is economically viable to do it or not given the age and condition of the refrigerator

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Heath witherow sera éternellement reconnaissant.
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