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3rd Generation high performance tablet computer released by Apple in October 2018. Models A1876, A2014, and A1895.

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Replacing the USB-c charging port

I have a problem with my iPad Pro 12.9 3rd gen.

The iPad suddenly stopped charging, but - if connected to the MacBook - it still exchanges data, it sychronizes (at least id did it, since now the battery is completely out of juice) without charging.

Apple told me that it might be a problem with the usb-c charging port. I receive a couple of quotes the are ridiculous (about $530 dollars). I am starting thinking I can replace the USB -c charging connector by myself. Do you have any advice on that?

thanks everybody!

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I just completed this repair on my wife's iPad pro 12.9". Her iPad stopped charging when connected to any one of our chargers or cables, so I figured it was worth trying. You may cringe, but ai had an accurate thermometer and a large pancake griddle. I set the dial so the griddle reached 135 degrees, and set the iPad on it screen up for 10 minutes. The LCD glue got very soft and I was able to carefully break the glue seal with an iFixit metal spudger and some guitar picks. That was the hard part. While working around don't go deeper than 1/8th inch or you can damage cables. I did not remove any of the screen cables and instead replaced the port with them remaining connected. I then tested the iPad, then removed the old adhesive and applied new, tested again, then stuck the LCD back down. We had to retrain face ID, not sure why.

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I just completed this repair on my wife's 12.9" iPad pro. One day it would no longer charge using any USB-C cable or charger we had. I thought purchasing a replacement port from iFixit was something worth trying. I also purchased replacement adhesive. I read that heating the glue that holds the screen on was essential. I heard about special heating pads, but what I had on hand was a large electric aluminum pancake griddle and a very accurate thermometer. Shut your iPad OFF. I set the griddle for 135F according to my thermometer, left it for 10 minutes, put the iPad screen up on the griddle with a towel over it, left it for 10 minutes while making sure the griddle's temp was stable at 135F. This softened the glue up nicely. I used a razor blade on the lower right corner to begin cutting through the glue. I worked my way around with a metal spudger and guitar picks to prevent the glue from reattaching. Be very careful while cutting the glue to not insert anything more than 1/8th of an inch or you may damage digitizer cables. Be patient - I had to work my way around the iPad a few times (again staying AWAY from the front camera). Also, stay away from the front camera - there's very little glue there and you should NOT insert anything to cut the glue near the camera - you will hurt something. Try to work your way around the first time quickly while the iPad is warm. The glue firms up when cool. Pry the screen up from the USB-C port side, and the glue around the camera will yield. Once the screen is free you'll see it's attached by a few cables. I left them alone. There are four screws securing the USB-C port to the iPad. Remove these and the two little springy brackets. Then remove the five screws holding down the shield that covers the USB-C cable connector. Keep track of which screw goes where as there are three different sizes. After disconnecting the charge port, you can peel it off (it's stuck down with adhesive). Then just plug the new one in, reattach the four screws and stick it back down. At this point I tested the iPad by connecting a charger. It worked perfectly. I then put the cable shield back on with it's screws (which was challenging due to the size of the screws and there not being a lot of space to work given the short screen cables). I then removed the old adhesive, applied the new adhesive (again a little challenging), tested the iPad once more, then stuck it down. I took my time, so this repair took me two hours. It was a little nerve racking getting the LCD off because it's huge and was working perfectly so I didn't want to damage it. You can see in the photo that the USB-C charge port got very corroded - which is why hers failed.

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@microgadgets That is caused by arcing between the cable and charge port. Normally when the charger is turned on before its connected to the device. Happens in iphones too.

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It may sound easy but take the cost of a new screen into consideration as they aren’t easy to remove.

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I don't think you have anything to lose. At this point it IS a brick. There were big problems with getting the glass to separate from the 1st gen Pro units but I haven't heard of any real problems with 3rd gen.

How did you make out?

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I ended up buying the keyboard as it has a usbc port for charging through the pins on the back.

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Alessio sera éternellement reconnaissant.
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