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Sears Kenmore 27 inch gas dryer. Model numbers 110.73022100 (white color) and 110.73024100 (bisque color).

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Why is the gas fire activating in my dryer in the off position?

I recently replaced the motor and belt on my Kenmore series 90 gas dryer. Everything was fine but a few weeks later the engine wouldn't engage. It made a loud buzzing noise without spinning. I would spin the drum with the door latch pressed and then start the dryer and it would start spinning. But I just noticed that if the timer still had time ticking and I closed the door, I could hear and feel the gas activate even though I never started the dryer. If I turned the dial to "off" the fire would go out. When I turn it back to any time above cool down the fire would restart without me pressing start. Again, the drum is not spinning. I haven't pressed start but the fire is turning on.

At this point I am not using the dryer and I unplugged it and I don't think it is safe to use. Any thoughts what might be the problem?

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Yikes, I'd be concerned too! Jon, can you verify the model number of your dryer? I'd be suspicious of a timer and/or control board, but can't be sure until we look up service or parts information using the model number.


Hi Jerry,

The model/stock Number is 110.76912692 76912.

This is definitely way past my understanding.

Thanks for the help.



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Hi @jon14599

Check if the door switch is electrically closed when the door is closed.

I realize that you said the the motor turned after you manually rotated it with the door latched pressed, but this doesn't mean that the door switch is electrically closed when the door is closed normally e.g. less pressure on the switch actuator by the door than by your hand.

Other than that it may be a faulty start winding or centrifugal switch in the motor. The humming sound is due to that there's current flowing through the motor's run winding only, but this doesn't produce enough electromagnetism to overcome the inertia when the motor is idle. It needs current to flow through both the start winding and the run winding to start turning.

Once it gets up to speed then there's an internal centrifugal switch in the motor that operates and disconnects the start winding as it is only has thin wires and you don't want it to burn out. The run winding has thicker wires so it can run for a long time without getting too hot.

Update (02/29/24)


Apologies I overlooked that the gas ignition was working.

You mentioned the motor humming and not automatically turning but will turn when manually assisted so you need to get an AC clamp meter and check the current flow through the motor when it tries to start and when it is running after manually rotating it to start.

There will be more current flow when starting than when it is running.

If the current flow is approximately the same value when trying to start and when it is running then either the centrifugal switch is faulty or the start winding is faulty.

Hopefully the current values may be shown on the motor's compliance plate.

Here's an image of a typical gas dryer wiring diagram.

As you can see the centrifugal switch when operated has disconnected the start winding so that only the run winding is in circuit.

It is difficult to test both of the windings and the switch individually unless you can gain access to where they're all connected as sometimes they don't all appear on a terminal block but are inside the motor itself, that's why a clamp meter (example only) is good because you place it around the wire to get a current reading

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Hi Jayeff,

The fire activates whether I hold the door switch closed myself or with the actual door closed. I haven't used my multimeter to test the circuit in both situations because I figured it must be closing the circuit as it activated the timer to tick and the flame starts in both cases.



You need to check if there's power at the timer motor when the door is open and the timer is in the off position.

There should be AC voltage connected to the timer module but the return path via the Neutral wire allowing the motor to operate, is only connected when the timer is moved from the off position and the door is closed.

Just curious if your dryer is a 120V or a 240V model.

If it needs 240V have you checked that both fuses for the dryer in the house power box are OK?


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Jon sera éternellement reconnaissant.
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