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Introduction

Use this guide to replace a dead logic board.

    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - Réponse

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - Réponse

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - Réponse

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - Réponse

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - Réponse

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - Réponse

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - Réponse

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - Réponse

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - Réponse

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - Réponse

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - Réponse

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - Réponse

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - Réponse

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - Réponse

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - Réponse

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - Réponse

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - Réponse

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Réponse

    Did mine today - but new battery wasnt charging. Went back in and noticed the battery connector cable was not quite 100% “seated. It was sticking out by less than a millimetre! - you need to give it quite a firm push in to get it seated properly. Otherwise - all ok .

    John Brennand - Réponse

    Just installed on a MacBookAir6,2 (13-inch, Early 2014).

    Was very easy.

    New iFixit battery looks great so far:

    Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 4922 -> 7333

    Jonathan Cross - Réponse

    can you tell me which size of screwdrivers you’ve used to crack it up, please? I have the same model and size,

    hawk_lpc -

    Screw P5 Pentalobe 1.2

    Mario Verlent - Réponse

    Install went flawlessly. Only challange was reattaching blue tooth antennas. Those sockets are so tiny.

    Joel Sebastian - Réponse

    Installation was a little challenging at first because the instructions on this site did not perfectly match my model (late 2013 to early 2015).

    Found this video on YouTube which described the procedure perfectly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lue6lVWh...

    Also the Ifixit kit I received was well put together with everything I needed and more. The calibration went perfectly and I am very pleased. Will buy again!!

    Donald Niamath - Réponse

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - Réponse

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - Réponse

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - Réponse

    What about disconnecting the battery?

    Luke Grimes - Réponse

  2. As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.
    • As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

    • Be sure to pull the connector horizontally toward the battery, and not straight up from the Air, or you may damage the socket on the logic board.

    The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

    mjmorawski - Réponse

    My plastic tab pulled off the connector. I worked the connection apart using two spurgers, slowly backing it out side to side.

    Ric Thistlethwaite - Réponse

    I don’t see my socket on logic board, how can I fix it

    QUYNH PHAM - Réponse

  3. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.

    Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

    They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

    I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

    Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

    A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

    Ben - Réponse

    Hi, Can the 13” Logicboard of 2012/2013/2014 or 2015 be compatible in the 2011 model?.

    verma1986 - Réponse

  4. Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.
    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.

  5. The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it. While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

    This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

    yurkennis - Réponse

    Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

    David Robillard - Réponse

  6. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

    ezequielaceto - Réponse

    It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

    Goth70 Fuzed - Réponse

    If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

    Lester Newsom - Réponse

    I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

    David Robillard - Réponse

    Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?

    Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.

    Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!

    Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable

    Adam Banko - Réponse

    The hardest part is to put the fan cable back in the ZIF socket.

    (Why do people say you don’t have to unplug the cable? that makes no sense)

    Digital Blended - Réponse

    after putting the cable back in the fan is very loud, can someone help?

    Ramon majem - Réponse

  7. Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

    Note how the “ears” of the gasket are routed

    davecortesi - Réponse

    Where can I purchase a replacement gasket? It’s missing after the repair place opened my computer

    Erin Kaspar-Frett - Réponse

  8. Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

    When reinstalling, start all three screws before tightening down. There’s some play in these holes, and you will have trouble lining them up if you tighten one down first.

    Curtis Kline - Réponse

  9. Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.
    • Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.

    Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

    kennyavis81 - Réponse

    On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

    Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

    paul deacon - Réponse

    The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

    peteragries - Réponse

    This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

    it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

    leesparey - Réponse

    Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

    Allen - Réponse

    Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

    jerry bennett - Réponse

  10. Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

  11. Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the corner of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.
    • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the corner of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.

    • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    Mine was very reluctant... couldn't get any purchase with a spudger, had to use flat tweezers to get enough grip on the cable. Exerted slowly increasing pull, but when it came out, it broke loose suddenly.

    Allen - Réponse

    My Macbook Air (2013) didn't have this cable.

    Phillip Remaker - Réponse

    Mine too, only a slot where a cable was passing,

    Gianni Borghesan -

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  13. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    • De-route the left speaker cable from its retainer on the I/O board.

    On re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0

    Anyone know what this means.

    Daniel Thomas - Réponse

  14. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Be very careful: it is quite easy to accidentally pry the whole cable connector from the I/O board.

    Dallas Guy - Réponse

    What do you do if this happens? Buy a whole new I/O board?

    adamwitz -

    I agree, I found this to be the only critical step of the entire disassembly procedure: I snapped the microphone connector socket off the board despite applying a relatively gentle pull on the cables. Fortunately I did this on a dead MBair from which I wanted to get the display, but now I'm afraid of doing the same damage while installing the display on the target MBair!

    Any tricks/tips would be most welcome.

    Lorenzo

    Lorenzo Cangiano - Réponse

    Following up on my previous post I'd like to share how I eventually circumvented the risk of snapping the microphone connector socket on the I/O board. Instead of attempting to disconnect the mic (as suggested in this guide, step 14), I did the following: a. remove the battery, b. detach the right speaker, c. detach the microphone from the outer case (for steps b and c I followed the iFixit guide on how to replace a MacbookAir microphone). The advantage is that the microphone can now remain safely connected to the I/O board. Of course when reassembling the mac one has to reverse these extra steps (the microphone can be easily reattached to the case as it has a sticky side). I would strongly advise iFixit to revise this guide accordingly!

    Lorenzo Cangiano -

    I don't think this step is necessary if you aren't seeking to fully remove the I/O board - if you are seeking only to remove the heatsink, you can skip this step, leave this delicate cable attached, then in the next couple steps you'll end up "flipping" the board out of the way, while leaving this cable connected.

    coopermarcus - Réponse

    Maybe I just lucked out but removing the mic cable was about the same effort as the left speaker cable. I wasn't ready to try Lorenzo's workaround above without a photo guide, so took my chances. Your mileage may vary.

    Allen - Réponse

    I find it very helpful that you give directions on where to pry, and how to address each connection. I’m always hesitant for fear of snapping something off, so I appreciate this detail. Thanks.

    Adam Goldstein - Réponse

  15. Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

    The screw was stripped and I couldn’t remove it, but it didn’t matter, I could complete removal of the logic board without removing the I/O board. I think the steps involved with disconnecting the I/O board are redundant.

    Nigel Anderson - Réponse

  16. Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.
    • Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

    When following these instructions in reverse, and reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to carefully check and adjust the alignment of the ports on the board with the holes in the case - it is especially obvious if the headphone port is mis-aligned with the case.

    coopermarcus - Réponse

    Also on reassembly, make sure the speaker and microphone cables are visible before securing the i/o board!

    davecortesi - Réponse

  17. Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

    Be careful when screwing in again not to overtighten, the plastic of the battery breaks easily with tightening.

    Mike Dacre - Réponse

  18. When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

  19. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

    Disaster strikes. I pulled away the socket itself (just like it says not to). Is there any possibility to re-connect it, or did I just ruin the whole logic board?

    Nigel Anderson - Réponse

    I lost the retaining flap so I don’t know if it can stay in place without the retaining flap

    SK Alias - Réponse

  20. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use your spudger to help pull the cable out of its socket.

  21. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up from beneath the cables.

    To snap back in, place speaker cable connector directly on top of socket and press down with your finger or tool.

    anonymous 6745 - Réponse

    This has to be done very gently. I only applied a mild lift and the socket broke off from the board. I had to say good-bye to the right speaker. :-(

    Kuro Kurosaka - Réponse

  22. Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket. While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket. Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.
    • Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

    • While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket.

    • Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

    Regarding the second photo on step 22, I believe the placement of the spudger is incorrect. If the second photo's purpose is to demonstrate the placement of the spudger described in the second bullet--"...use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable..."-- then such placement could lead to damaging the connector. View this annotated screenshot to see what I'm trying to convey: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s4/sh/1f5....

    Christopher Fernandes - Réponse

    I agree, I used tweezers to pull it gently and it worked beautifully

    Gian Carlo -

    Agree. Use tweezers.

    sdcsoup -

  23. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    When reconnecting, how will I know which cable connects to the connectors?

    Ringo CoC - Réponse

    Fits oneway only. See length of the cable connectors

    yuroen - Réponse

    I put a small piece of red tape on the right wire to identify.

    kcunningham - Réponse

  24. Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.
    • Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.

  25. Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

  26. To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively. Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.
    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

    • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

    Warning: there may be adhesive keeping the SSD in place. i got 1 with, and 1 without, both slightly different models (but still the same model name, A1466 )

    divinity76 - Réponse

  27. Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
    • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    Please Please Please remember to re-attach your antenna cables if you are replacing the upper case with a new or refurbished one. They have a way of slipping under the logic board.

    Timothy Button - Réponse

    These screws are easily stripped. If you accidentally push too hard, you will strip the screw when re-attaching. If that happens, get a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work the screw out taking care not to damage the board.

    Timothy Button - Réponse

    My screws were 4.xx mm

    Gabe - Réponse

    These screws are actually 3.6 mm T5 Torx. Please fix :)

    Doc Halstater - Réponse

    I’ll second this observation.

    sjosefw -

    When putting the logic board back, make sure the speaker wire isn't trapped under it

    Shiv Sikand - Réponse

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - Réponse

  28. Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.
    • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

    These are T9-sized torx screws, not T8.

    Hanii Puppy - Réponse

    This is good to know. I think I need to order a screwdriver set - all I have is the pentalobe and one other that came with my SSD replacement kit.

    forestsprite -

    I also had T9 screws on my device.

    I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. The screws are quite tight so it´s easier to loosen them while the case is lying flat on the surface. This procedure comes in handy in Step 34 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

    wolfgang07 - Réponse

    Mine were T8 screws, but I was able to use a T9 torx with pressure and that worked.

    kcunningham - Réponse

    fyi, mine were T8

    jmull - Réponse

    My hinge screws were T9, and fit very snugly. If your screwdrivers are not a precision set, such that the T9 is too tight, you can use T8, but it won’t be good for the screw heads.

    Josh - Réponse

  29. Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.
    • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

    "remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case" -- an optional step when detaching components from upper case for cleaning, eg after a liquid spilled to keyboard.

    yurkennis - Réponse

    When I was re-assembling, the screw hole of the heat sink didn’t align. I applied a mild force then the edge of the heat sink broke off from the rest, losing the contact to the case. I am hoping the Air would work for a while during the test run (if it ever works) but I would buy a replacement heat sink for regular use.

    Kuro Kurosaka - Réponse

  30. Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.
    • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • Hold the antenna cables out of the way as you lift the heat sink end of the logic board out of the upper case.

    On reassembly, as you seat the board in place, make sure the keyboard backlight cable is not trapped under it.

    davecortesi - Réponse

  31. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.

  32. Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board. Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the logic board.
    • Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Remove the AirPort/Bluetooth board from the logic board.

  33. Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
    • Remove the four 2.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.

    • If the heat sink seems to be stuck to the logic board after removing all four screws, use a spudger to carefully separate the heat sink from the faces of the CPU and GPU.

    • Remove the heat sink from the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the heat sink, be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste. If you have never applied thermal paste before, we have a guide that makes it easy.

    Arctic Silver's application guide http://www.arcticsilver.com/intel_applic... shows mobile 15 processors for 2nd generation, recommending a spread technique. But the 3-7th gen i5 only lists vertical line technique. I can find the actual processor model used in the 13" mid-2011 MBA (Core i5-2557M, found here: http://www.anandtech.com/show/4528/the-2...), but no way to correlate that to 2nd gen, 3d gen, etc.

    I'm going to go with spread because it seems generally safer for laptops, but if anyone can confirm: What generation is the Core i5-2557M; and if it's later generation (3- on), is it really vertical line vs. spread?

    Allen - Réponse

    Allen, it's been a while since you did the repair. Have you had any problems with overheating? Or anything else that might be caused by spread vs. vertical line?

    Talon -

    i’m looking for a CPU under the heatsink. is that integrated onto the mobo as well??

    davidjercinovic - Réponse

  34. Logic board remains. When reassembling your logic board, be sure the rubber gasket is installed correctly. The nub on the gasket should mate with the hole cut into the logic board near the heat sink fins.
    • Logic board remains.

    • When reassembling your logic board, be sure the rubber gasket is installed correctly. The nub on the gasket should mate with the hole cut into the logic board near the heat sink fins.

    • The rubber gasket should attach to the end of the heat sink as seen in the second picture.

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70 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

23 commentaires

This does not show the battery removal in the early steps, but it is shown as removed in later steps.

Jason - Réponse

Thanks for pointing that out! Missing steps have been added :)

Andrew Optimus Goldheart -

Thanks i fixed my MacBook Air (11 inch) with this tutorial.

My MBA became very slow after a water spill over the keyboard.

Although Hardware check said everything was fine, i disabled the MB and found a spot with corrosion, after removing the corrosion and assembling it was on speed again. the water spill was some months ago so it had some time to corrode and show were a clean was needed :-)

Wat I real appreciatie is the accurate way of description of the connector disassembly :-)

Gert Jan Bollen - Réponse

Would it be possible to upgrade this machine to hold a newer logic board?

Get That Geek - Réponse

No. There are no compatible logic boards that I am aware of.

Talon -

with a little bit of skills you dont need to remove the T8 screws. But be sure not to damage the cable

Moritz Mustermann - Réponse

[|your guide was really helpfull, but I´m looking for a piece that was ripped out (I took it to a store to get it cleaned, and they trick me) and would be great if you can help me, if you have an email account so i can send you the picture. The little piece is like a chip next to the airport/bluetooth board, the tiny tiny one.]

David Mejía - Réponse

Thank you for this, it was really helpfull, but I actually have a little problem that you can help me with. I took my MacBook to a store to get it cleaned and I think they trick me, I found out later that a little piece had been ripped out, i’m trying to replace it but I don’t know the name or where to find it, its the little piece that is next to the airport/bluetooth board, the tiny tiny one. If you have an email account so I can send you the picture, would be great if you can help me out.

thanks !

David Mejía - Réponse

Top! Top! Top!

Das Macbook gab nur mehr 3 Töne fortwährend bei 5 Sekunden Pause von sich. Habe dann nach dieser Anleitung Punkt für Punkt das Board demontiert, anschliessend bei 190 Grad während 8 Minuten in den Backofen , und siehe da, das Macbook läuft wieder.

Vielen Dank für die tolle Anleitung.

Weber - Réponse

No experience in computers what so ever but when my girlfriend s computer started beeping I decided to try my luck with this guide. Just took it slow and steady following the steps of the guide. Once I removed the logic board from the computer I put it in the oven for 7 minutes at 170 C. Now it works perfectly again!

Thank you for the guide, was really helpful and easy to follow!

2011 Macbook air

Oztrail - Réponse

Hi Oztrail (and any others)

I had the three beeps and tried the various simple methods to fix it - PRAM, SMC, Diagnostics, Vacuuming the inside - with no luck.

So I’ve now removed my logic board argh. Plan is to oven it.

I was just wondering before I put it in the oven if it could’ve been the thermal past that was the issue?

When I removed the heatsink it came away instantly without any resistance. The thermal paste was dried and chalky and I can’t imagine did a thing.

Is this normal? Or should I try a simple step of applying new paste before baking my board?

Any thoughts would be great!

Oh and I assume you baked without the heatsink in place, and reattached it after baking with some new thermal paste?

Thanks for any thoughts - I’ll post back my experience

Jeremy -

Hi. My macbook air 13” mid 2011 simply does not start. Green led on permanently in the charger. I simply do not know if the logic board is damaged or is a simple case of soding some chip. How do i get the guide of voltage of the parts of the macbook air? So then i can show to a specializer that can test the voltage of each part of the macbook air logic board.

Yorgo Pilippe - Réponse

Well I am now typing this on my previously 3 beep macbook air

In answer to my own questions above, I did remove the heatsink and baked the logic board.

I did it for 8 minutes at 180 deg C

Also reapplied plenty of new thermal paste.

It’s working beautifully so far.

Interestingly having applied the paste it is super quiet. Made me realise that before it had been really hot and noisy, so maybe it was the thermal paste causing the issue…

Jeremy - Réponse

Top. It works.

Weber - Réponse

After reading through this procedure, I now understand why a logic board swap costs about $300 (parts + labor). You’d better know what you’re doing and be precise (and delicate). I counted a dozen steps where I would probably munge things up pretty badly. So thanks for keeping me from destroying what would be, otherwise, repairable. :D

barryjaylevine - Réponse

Thank you for posting these repair instructions, I successfully installed a new logic board on my wife’s Macbook Air….couldn’t have done it without your detailed instructions. Cheers, Tom

tommybass40 - Réponse

Really well done guys. Thank you very much. Worked for me…

marcus2 - Réponse

I have the 2011 Macbook Air 13” model & wish to upgrade the logic board with 2012 or 2013 or 2014 or 2015 models.Is that possible?.

verma1986 - Réponse

Thank you so much for this detailed guide. I was able to bring back to life my MacBook Air pretty easily following your instructions.

Rogier Bom - Réponse

Took my MacBook Air to certified Apple for repair. Advised $900 repair. I read this review baked the logic board at 180 degrees for 8 minutes and it’s like new. Had no thermal paste so used toothpaste as a substitute till thermal paste arrives. Thankyou sooooo much

Brendan Vandervliet - Réponse

What does the baking of the logicboard do? Thanks.

Malcolm - Réponse

Hi Malcolm,

It quite possible dries the CPU. My MacBook Air has now been running faultless for 3 weeks. Just ensure you remove the heat sink and clean the paste off the cpu. then after baking re apply thermal paste.

Brendan Vandervliet -

As a 12 year old who was trying to fix his second laptop, im fairly impressed that I was able to complete these steps with ease. Macbook is now running after GPU died, leading me to bake the logic board to re-solder the connectors. Thanks for the help!

COOPE COOPS! ! - Réponse

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