Introduction

Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer le haut-parleur droit.

Ce tutoriel est destiné au haut-parleur situé sur le côté droit de votre ordinateur portable. Pendant une bonne partie du tutoriel, il sera sur votre gauche, car l'ordinateur portable sera à l'envers.

Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
  • Ôtez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :

    • Deux vis Pentalobe de 2,3 mm

    • Huit vis Pentalobe de 3,0 mm

For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

Carlos - Réponse

Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

Fredrik -

Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

Alex Birkett - Réponse

Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

addvariety -

the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

Edison - Réponse

I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

marketing - Réponse

is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

monsieurescargot - Réponse

Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

Antoine Thornton - Réponse

Mettez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.
  • Mettez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et le boîtier supérieur.

  • Séparez avec précaution les deux boîtiers et retirez le boîtier inférieur.

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  • Le boîtier inférieur est connecté au boîtier supérieur par deux attaches en plastique au milieu.

  • Lors du remontage, appuyez doucement sur le milieu du boîtier inférieur pour que les deux attaches s'enclenchent à nouveau.

There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

wrbandllm - Réponse

This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

addvariety - Réponse

What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

Tommy Huang - Réponse

  • Si nécessaire, retirez le cache en plastique couvrant la carte de contact de la batterie.

Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

jodieabc - Réponse

There is no point on going near the battery or logic board. I cut out these steps with no issue. It is precautionary but unnecessary.

Jaime Leonard - Réponse

  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), tirez le connecteur de la batterie tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Assurez-vous de faire levier uniquement sur le connecteur et non pas sur sa prise, sinon vous risquez d'endommager irréversiblement la carte mère.

I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

jramsey21 - Réponse

I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

salvatorebarbera -

Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

andrehedegaard -

Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

Steve - Réponse

Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

Vadim Gribanov -

When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

Ethan Tarquin - Réponse

Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

Caleb Steinborn -

+1

I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

Jonas Ehrs -

If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

Parth Gudhka - Réponse

  • Pliez le connecteur de la batterie vers le haut afin d'éviter tout contact accidentel avec la prise pendant la réparation.

If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

sebasgaes - Réponse

I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

LaymanLab - Réponse

That’s a great idea!

David Lilliebridge - Réponse

I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

dbrick - Réponse

  • Dévissez les deux vis Torx T5 de 2,1 mm fixant le support de la nappe de la carte E/S du côté de la carte mère.

At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

Martin Gray - Réponse

This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

barak - Réponse

After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

driesverfaillie - Réponse

  • Saisissez le support de la nappe de la carte E/S avec une pincette et retirez-le du Macbook.

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  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger) pour ôter le connecteur de la carte E/S de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Veillez à faire seulement levier sur la nappe de la carte E/S et non sur la prise elle-même, vous risqueriez d'endommager la carte mère.

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  • Saisissez la nappe de la carte E/S par son extrémité du côté de la carte mère et soulevez-la et pliez-la pour qu'elle ne vous dérange pas.

  • Pour éviter d'endommager la nappe, pliez-la seulement au niveau du coude à l'extrémité de la nappe la plus proche de la carte E/S.

I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

lamajr - Réponse

  • Insérez délicatement l'extrémité pointue du spudger sous la nappe du haut-parleur droit à proximité du connecteur. Ensuite soulevez-la afin de la déconnecter de sa prise sur la carte mère.

Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

barak - Réponse

WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

jiclark - Réponse

  • Soulevez délicatement la nappe du haut-parleur droit hors du boîtier supérieur.

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  • Enlevez les vis suivantes, fixant le haut-parleur droit au boîtier supérieur :

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 5,7 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 6,5 mm

    • Une vis Torx T5 de 3,8 mm

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  • Soulevez le haut-parleur droit à l'endroit où se situe la nappe et enlevez-le du boîtier.

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Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

7 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.

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