Introduction
Use this guide to replace the screen in your MacBook Pro 14" 2021.
Since macOS Sequoia 15.1, display artifacts will disappear if you update macOS to 15.1 or higher. It is yet to be investigated if non-serialized third-party screens would work as well, but original Apple screens work without any issues. True Tone remains disabled, and there will be an error message regarding the screen in the diagnostics.
For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your MacBook. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Note: Replacing your screen disables True Tone functionality.
Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Outil utilisé dans cette étape :FixMat$36.95
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Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove eight screws securing the lower case:
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Four 9.3 mm screws
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Four 5 mm screws
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Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.
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Pull up on the suction handle to create a small gap under the lower case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.
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Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.
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Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.
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Firmly pull the lower case away from the back edge, one corner at a time, to disengage the sliding clips.
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Remove the lower case.
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Lay it down and align the sliding clips with the back edge of the MacBook. Press down on the lower case and slide it toward the back edge to engage the clips.
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Once the back corners of the lower case are secured and flush with the frame, press down along the middle of the lower case to engage the four remaining clips.
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Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector on the logic board.
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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm‑long screws securing the trackpad cable bracket to the logic board.
Sorry but this is not correct Apple procedure.
There is power running through the device still whilst you are unscrewing this plate/bracket and disconnecting the trackpad if you do it this way. This is why Apple put the small flex cable next to this, free to reach before touching anything else.
You must disconnect the battery flex cable next to the trackpad connector before you touch anything else.
Thanks
Is that not what steps 7-9 are doing? You cannot actually access the battery connector until you remove this cable as it's underneath. Which battery flex cable are you referring to?
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Outil utilisé dans cette étape :Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the trackpad cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable's press connector secured to the logic board.
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Peel the trackpad cable away from the device, making sure to separate the adhesive.
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Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector under the large pancake screw.
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Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the battery board.
Ich hab dieses Datenkabel zerstört. Ist das der Grund warum es nicht mehr lädt?
Welches Kabel bräuchte ich denn? Das hier Item # IF464-018-1?
MacBook Pro 14" (A2442, A2779, A2918, A2992) and 16" (A2485) Battery Daughter Board Cable -
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Slide blunt nose tweezers under areas with adhesive to separate the cable from the device.
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Remove the battery board data cable.
Removing is easy. We cant reinsert the battery data cable connector. It wont push in properly. Any helpful solution???
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.8 mm wide-head screw securing the battery power connector.
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Use the flat end of your spudger to lift the battery connector away from the battery board, disconnecting the battery.
I have a question, could you please clarify, if the battery connector is damaged, is it replaceable or I have to replace the whole logic board?
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Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the three 2.1 mm-long screws securing the antenna connector cover and bracket.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bar's coaxial cable.
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Repeat for the two other cables.
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Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the antenna bar to the frame:
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Two 7.5 mm screws
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Four 3.2 mm screws
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Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the nine 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna bar to the frame.
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Insert the tip of a spudger between the antenna bar and the frame.
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Pry up with the spudger to separate the antenna bar from the frame.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.1 mm screws securing the screen cable covers.
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Outil utilisé dans cette étape :Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the two screen cable covers from the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two right-most screen cable press connectors secured to the logic board.
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Pull up on the back of the screen cable bracket to release the clips securing it to the frame.
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Remove the screen cable bracket.
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Repeat for the other screen cable bracket.
During disassembly, I found it easiest to disengage the bottom/connector side of the cable bracket clips first, then pivot up and pull away from the frame of the laptop.
If reassembling with a new display, the ribbon cables can be very stiff on the connector end. I found it easiest to first install the press connectors (step 28), then use the flat end of a spudger to gently coax the ribbon cables around the curve on the top edge of the screen cable bracket buffers until I could engage the top clips of the cable bracket. While holding the top edge of the cable bracket, I used the flat end of a spudger to gently push the connector end of the ribbon cables down into the gap, then engaged the clips on the bottom edge of the cable bracket. -
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the lid angle sensor cover near the right hinge.
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the lid angle sensor cover.
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Use the flat of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lid angle sensor's press connector.
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Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the two 2.5 mm‑long screws securing each hinge cover (four screws in total).
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Use tweezers to pull the hinge covers horizontally away from the hinge to separate it from the frame.
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Remove the hinge covers.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove two 5.2 mm screws from each hinge (four screws total).
I found that these were very, very tight, and a T9 worked better for me than the T8.
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If you plan to re-use your screen, open it and apply a piece of tape to the glass directly above each hinge. This helps protect the glass from getting scratched in the following three steps.
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Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.
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Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two remaining 5.2 mm screws (one from each hinge).
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Remove the topmost screw last, using one hand to steady both halves of the MacBook Pro to make sure they don't separate and fall over unexpectedly.
Loosening these two final screws while the computer was flat made this step much easier. When I initially got to the last screw, I literally couldn't get it to budge while the machine was on its side.
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Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinges can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.
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Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.
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Install the hinge screws without fully tightening them. Center the hinges and check for gaps or rubbing on either side.
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Fully tighten the hinge screws.
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If your screen clicks or snaps when it's opened or closed, loosen the screws and realign the screen.
Hallo,
ist jemanden bekannt dass nach Display Austausch oberhalb des Display Karos zu sehen ist?
Muss dieser Display nach Tausch programmiert werden?
Vielen Dank für Beiträge!
ja, ohne alte MCU oder Apple Software funktioniert es nicht wirklich sauber, nur mit Pixelfehlern. Ich mag solche "anleitungen" - nie wirklich selbst probiert, aber so viele schöne Bilder, yay.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our MacBook Pro 14" 2021 Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our MacBook Pro 14" 2021 Answers community for help.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
13 autres ont terminé cette réparation.
21 commentaires
Hi Ryan.
We actually sell the screen, a.ka. "display assembly" here. I apologize that the part wasn't linked in the parts section at the top of the page. I will update that for future repairers.
Did you completely remove the hinge? Just wondering since I may do a hinge replacement in the future.
Hi Jacko.
We don't completely remove the hinge with this guide, as it's already attached to the replacement screen.
Does this require programming to enable True Tone?
Doesn't Apple record all of the components' IDs/fingerprints to a chip and use that list to reject the replacement display?
Did you really try it? You CANT replace screen on 2021+ models without authorized software to fix distorted image issue. This is misleading and useless.
If you want to replace the screen, either do it by apple or transfer MCU chip from old screen to a new one which is a bit harder than your 0 repairability score.
So you can't use a M2 Pro MacBook Pro display on a M1 Pro/Max display just by swapping them?
When is this coming back instock?
but it from apple its 579 from them and there are no artifact issues
Has anyone tested the QianLi iphone display programmers on the Apple M1 14 inch display replacement?
The fundamental problem (as I understand), is that the replacement screen has a serial number which does not match what the Apple logic board is expecting. So we must recode the replacement screen serial number with the original screen serial number. Then everything should be fine.
Hi for all looking to purchase a display. It actually seems wiser to buy the part from apple:
They sell it for
$672.32
and give a rebate on the returned damaged part
$579.04 Price after credit
Hello bro, is the screen already programmed? And don't shadows come out in your notch?
Hi. I got a quote for doing this in MacOnline in Chile. They want a lot more than $2000 USD for the job, including replacing the motherboard. I think I am getting very ripped off. If I use HDMI with my TV, everything works perfectly. So why do I need to replace the motherboard?? Thieves and liars. I am used to it here.
hello , can a tutorial also be added on how to do the soldering and transferring of the chips to avoid the visual effects
Hello! Has anyone figured out how to calibrate the Display to the serial number? Since the MCU chip is for a different computer there's loads of distortion making it a bit unusable unless in clamshell mode using an external display.
is there a way to just swap the LCD panel from another screen into the one I have on currently? glass is fine
About the problems that can arise with the replacement screen. Have you verified that 144hz is available and no artifacts show, when using macOS 15.2, regardless of the specific version of the a2442?
