Introduction

Ça chauffe ? Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer un ventilateur droit usé.

Retirez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :
  • Retirez les dix vis suivantes, fixant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur :

    • Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm.

    • Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.

important to reassemble the "lower case" successfully: the threads of the seven 3mm phillips screws are drilled at an angle :-/

mysterioes - Réponse

Same issue with me. After reassembling my 13-inch and my 17-inch, one of the screws are sticking out ever so slightly. Very annoying, especially since I scratch whatever surface I'm on now.

Kyle Spadaro -

Very important note; this guide is NOT correct for the Macbook Pro 17" A1297 late '11.

The A1297 has an assembly adjacent to the optical drive, identifiable by 4 antenna connectors, 1 usb cable (with very small connector) and one PCI-e flat cable running across the optical drive.

I did not take pictures, but found one on the web. I'm very new to iFixit and have no idea yet on how to create a guide, but here's the picture showing the assembly on top (this pic only has 3 antenna wires, the A1297 has 4, but at least you'll know what to look for.

- carefully undo all connections and 2 screws

- remove the assembly and flip it over

- again carefully remove the shielding tape

- undo 3 tiny screws

- gently pry the airport card from the assembly (the flat cable will be a bit of a pain)

- reverse process with replacement card.

image can be found here:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2446...

Remon - Réponse

It helps if you mark the holes where the long screws go so you can easily find them when the time comes to button things up. Also, a little dish or custard cup to hold those tiny screws is essential.

Human - Réponse

3 x 13.5 mm screws are actually TWO different types! Return to EXACT SAME HOLES.

-I discovered this on my mid-2010, but from comments, sounds like it may affect other models as well

2 x 13.5 mm screws are pointed ends

1 x 13.5 mm screw is a FLAT end <- CORNER HOLE

These areTWO slightly different lengths, and must return to correct holes. If you put the flat end screw in the wrong hole, it will stick out slightly. If you put either of the pointed screws in the wrong hole, they will go in all the way, but will not catch threads, and will simply fall out when laptop is flipped back over.

scottbernardis - Réponse

I printed out the image above and taped each screw to the photo as I removed each one, just to make sure I put them in the right location.

Grace Morris - Réponse

This is a brilliant suggestion! I did this for all the steps that involved removing screws, numbered the sheets, and that made it very easy to put it all back together in reverse. Thanks!

Steve Adamczyk -

Calez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et la ventilation et soulevez vers le haut pour libérer les clips maintenant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur.
  • Calez vos doigts entre le boîtier inférieur et la ventilation et soulevez vers le haut pour libérer les clips maintenant le boîtier inférieur au boîtier supérieur.

  • Retirez le boîtier inférieur.

I recommend using anti-static protection, i.e., wearing a ground strap, or at least touch metal chassis inside the computer before unplugging cables. Otherwise, you might create an ESD discharge into your RAM and have to replace it like I did!

d68ef792 - Réponse

  • Chaque fois que vous travaillez près de la carte mère, il est judicieux de débrancher d'abord la batterie pour éviter les courts-circuits.

  • Si elle est présente, saisissez la languette en plastique attachée au connecteur de la batterie et tirez-la vers le bord avant de l'appareil. Pour les modèles fin 2011, le connecteur de batterie n'a pas de languette mais simplement une prise qui s'insère directement dans la carte mère - pour la retirer, tirez-la vers le haut.

  • Si la languette en plastique est absente, utilisez une spatule (spudger) pour soulever le connecteur de sa prise.

  • Tirez la languette parallèlement à la face de la carte mère.

This step is a little difficult in reverse, that is, when re-attaching the battery. It helps to tilt the laptop up so you can see the edge of the board that accepts the plug. It may look like there are two slots for it, it goes in the bigger slot that is further away from the board.

yary hluchan - Réponse

Is this step really necessary? It is not part of the instructions how to replace the HDD in Apple's User Manual of the 2011 17" MBP.

Tobias Hahn - Réponse

As it says in the step: "Whenever working near the logic board, it is always wise to first disconnect the battery to avoid short circuits." It is not required, but it is simple insurance to avoid a $1000+ repair should you accidentally short components on the board with something metal.

Andrew Bookholt -

There was no tab on my model. Battery is affixed to board and screws must be removed.

bhodges2 - Réponse

Mine also, and looks as if removing connector could damage motherboard.

Stephen -

* There is no tab on the A1297 (late 2011) model's battery connector. Be careful with the connector, it chips off the edges easily! Otherwise the same as bhodges2 & Stephen's notes.

** (Pleas also include the exact Model and Part numbers like P/N: MD311D/A; Mod.: A1297 in the comments and notes for your MBP)

Pinguman - Réponse

Why are there no guides for the Late 2011 17" MacBook Pro A1297 (2.4GHz i7 quad core, MD311LL/A)??? I just replaced the RAM in mine and discovered that not only is there no tab on the battery connector, but the connector pulls straight up, perpendicular to the logic board, rather than parallel. I almost ripped the wires out of the connector by trying to pull it out parallel to the logic board like this guide instructed! After finally getting it out, my advice to those with the Late 2011 model is to use a spudger to loosen the edges of the connector then lift the connector straight up to get it out safely.

Dave - Réponse

I replaced the display on my late 2011 model and noticed that it was quite different than the tutorial given here so I detailed all the differences to help others with late-2011 models on my blog: http://johnfixesstuff.blogspot.com/2014/...

jmueller -

I just put an SSD in a model #A1297 - MC226LL/A and the battery connector had to be removed by pulling it parallel to and away from the logic board — in other words, not up. I was definitely a bit confused when I tried to pull it up.

Doug Hogg - Réponse

  • Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour soulever le connecteur du ventilateur droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Il est utile de faire pivoter le spudger sous les câbles du ventilateur pour débrancher le connecteur.

  • La deuxième et la troisième photo montrent respectivement la prise et le connecteur du ventilateur. Veillez à ne pas casser la prise en plastique lorsque vous soulevez le connecteur avec votre spudger. La carte mère représentée sur la deuxième photo peut être légèrement différente de celle de votre machine, mais la prise reste identique.

Needs a better photo to show how the plug is able to come off the socket vertically. In particular, the underside of the plug should be shown.

Alexander Atkins - Réponse

  • Retirez les trois vis cruciformes de 3,1 mm fixant le ventilateur droit sur la carte mère.

  • Dans le MacBook Pro 17" Unibody fin 2011, ces vis seront des Torx T6.

The fan fixing screws on my 17-inch, Mid 2010 MacBook Pro were Torx 6, not Philips 00.

Michael - Réponse

... And the fan fixing screws on my 2009 MBP were *smaller* that the size implied by the tool requirements for this project. I initially tried a Phillips 00 screwdriver but it nearly stripped the screw head. It was necessary to switch to a Phillips 000 bit to actually get two of the screws to move.

rpwl -

my mid 2010 mbp had Torx 7

nielsdolieslager - Réponse

  • Retirez le ventilateur droit du boîtier supérieur, en tenant compte de son câble qui pourrait rester accroché.

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Conclusion

Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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