Introduction

Remplacez le pavé tactile de votre MacBook Unibody modèle A1342.

Retirez les huit vis Phillips 4 mm par lesquelles le boîtier inférieur est fixé au MacBook.
  • Retirez les huit vis Phillips 4 mm par lesquelles le boîtier inférieur est fixé au MacBook.

According to this page http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1651?viewl..., the 8 screws are not identical.

Can anybody tell me where each kind of screw is supposed to go?

Gregoire - Réponse

They are all 100% Identical. You were probably looking at a different model, or Apple has entered the wrong information... Hey, It happens...

weeowey weeowey -

The screws on the Late 2009 are identical. The blue lock compound might make tightening some require a little more effort.

svenaustx - Réponse

Can I replace it with a SATA 3 cable?

nm - Réponse

A1342 macbook does not have the right controller to support sata III

weeowey weeowey -

hi, i just got back from the apple store and they are really keen for me to upgrade to a new laptop since my battery is old and the screen is cracked, so glad i found ifixit i would love to upgrade this puppy! gonna make it a real sleeper! styler hall wrote about sticking 16 gb of ram in his a 1342 ? is this a simply mather of ordering 3 4gb sticks ?aslo i currently have 4 gb and would like to upgrade to 8 ( or indeed 16) does that mean i need to buy all new sticks or can i continue to use the old one and stick a new one next to it ?

thanks again mick van aar, perth western aus.

michelvanaar - Réponse

The A1342 will take up to 16 GB of RAM, however, there are only two RAM slots, so use two 8-GB RAM modules. Other World Computing (OWC) is a great reference source for info on exactly which RAM to use with which model; prices are usually much better on EBay though. Add an SSD from OWC and your machine will really scream!

I hope that helps!

gdesbrisay -

Gregoire is right. The 8 screws are absolutely NOT identical, I’m looking at them right now, weeowey weeowey.

John Guzman - Réponse

Le boîtier inférieur est construit en aluminium avec un revêtement en caoutchouc. Ne pliez pas trop l'aluminium lors du retrait, car une déformation permanente générerait des problèmes de tolérance après le remontage. Soulevez légèrement le boîtier arrière au niveau de la fente. Continuez à faire courir vos doigts entre les boîtiers inférieur et supérieur jusqu'à ce que le boîtier supérieur se dégage des clips de fixation.
  • Le boîtier inférieur est construit en aluminium avec un revêtement en caoutchouc. Ne pliez pas trop l'aluminium lors du retrait, car une déformation permanente générerait des problèmes de tolérance après le remontage.

  • Soulevez légèrement le boîtier arrière au niveau de la fente.

  • Continuez à faire courir vos doigts entre les boîtiers inférieur et supérieur jusqu'à ce que le boîtier supérieur se dégage des clips de fixation.

  • La position de ces trois clips est indiquée dans la troisième photographie.

Do the retaining clips have to be re-engaged when replacing the lower case?

John Morley - Réponse

Answering my own question, the clips re-engage when the lower case is correctly positioned. You can help them by gently pressing the lower case with your thumbs midway along the two short sides. When everything is correctly aligned the eight screw holes line up.

John Morley -

Rather than running your fingernail down the sides to free up the retaining clips, I found that using an old credit card, inserted about 1/4”, to run along the left and right side popped those end retaining clips right off with no problem. You may need to twist the card slightly when in the middle area to help pop those off.

bdahl385 - Réponse

À titre de précaution, nous vous conseillons de débrancher le connecteur de la batterie de la carte mère afin d'éviter les décharges électriques. Cette étape est facultative.
  • À titre de précaution, nous vous conseillons de débrancher le connecteur de la batterie de la carte mère afin d'éviter les décharges électriques. Cette étape est facultative.

  • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  • Vous pouvez également, si cela est plus facile, vous servir de vos ongles pour soulever les deux extrémités du connecteur.

Hi,

for error I did step 3 as last one. The battery now is no more recognized by my macbook.

Did I make such a tremendous mistake that cause the battery to fail ??

Enrico D - Réponse

Retirez les deux vis Tri-wing 5 mm qui fixent la batterie au boîtier supérieur.
  • Retirez les deux vis Tri-wing 5 mm qui fixent la batterie au boîtier supérieur.

"Tri-Wing Screws"? I don't see a "Tri-Wing Screwdriver" listed in the "Tools" section.

barryjaylevine - Réponse

See here: http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Tri-wing-Y1-...

All tools required are included here: http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/54-Bit-Drive...

Just did it myself ;)

Hannes -

5mm tri-wing screw??

Its hardly that big. It certainly requires a tri-wing screwdriver much smaller than a 5mm tri-wing screwdriver - "Y1" is probably 1mm. The smallest I had was a 2mm tri-wing screwdriver and it just worked ok.

I think this and step 5 should be edited with better information.

yy yy - Réponse

The original iFixit guide described the step 4 screws as "tri-wing" but that is incorrect, it should say "tri-point" or "Y", and the required screwdriver diameter is 2 mm, not 5 mm. See this image:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_scr...

The top row is tri-wing, the bottom row is tri-point, as found in this MacBook.

irvbromberg - Réponse

My tri-wing screws were black, 2mm and totally seized up. I had to break the plastic around the screw holes in the battery, remove it and then un screw them with long nose pliers. Needless to say they are now replaced with Philips screws.

Al Livesey - Réponse

A Y1 screwdriver emphatically did not fit mine - so in case it saves others buying a useless set of security bits like I did, you need a Y0, like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/tri-wing-y0-tri...

Jo Wilson - Réponse

A small ~2mm flat-head screwdriver will fit across two of the points and have enough leverage to do the trick as well.

Edward Price - Réponse

Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour soulever délicatement l'étiquette de sécurité. Vous trouverez dessous une vis Tri-wing.
  • Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour soulever délicatement l'étiquette de sécurité. Vous trouverez dessous une vis Tri-wing.

  • Retirez la vis Tri-wing de 5 mm qui fixe la batterie au boîtier supérieur.

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Retirez les trois vis Phillips de 3.1 mm positionnées près du bord du boîtier supérieur.
  • Retirez les trois vis Phillips de 3.1 mm positionnées près du bord du boîtier supérieur.

  • Lors de la réinstallation de la batterie, pensez à remettre ces trois vis avant de fixer les vis Tri-wing.

When I re-installed the battery, I inadvertently ripped the ribbon between the Trackad ribbon and the battery ribbon. Be Careful!

Joel Gilbert - Réponse

"Remove three 3.1 mm Phillips screws securing the battery near the edge of the upper case".

Using the tools I bought from iFixit, I have got this far, no worries :)

The channels underneath/around these screws appear damaged and will not allow the screw to unwind and come out, therefore, the screws are "stuck". (This is by no means an indictment of the mini screwdrivers.) Any suggestions to help, because the replacement battery will not fit with these screws in place. Thanks.

jane - Réponse

These last 3 screws were a bit** to get off. One of them actually would not come out but I managed to slip the battery out anyways. Maybe it nudged just enough. Getting it back in was okay, just slid it under. Fit was snug, had to be careful not to break or crimp the ribbon in front of the battery connector, as Joel stated. Simply snipped a piece of the plastic tab from the old battery and stood it up in this spot and slid the battery down, this kept the ribbon from crimping. Only one of these last 3 screws that I did get out, did I put back in. Not sure why they are there as the tabs that hold them are enough to hold the battery. All other screws and battery connector worked like a charm. Replaced the cover, turn it on and Whala!!! Only got a message that said I needed to reset the Date & Time. Got it on the charger now, as new battery only had 75% charge, so fingers crossed it will recharge at a 100% and last longer than the old battery before it's next charge. Good luck everyone!!

Terri C - Réponse

Utilisez la languette de la batterie pour la sortir du boîtier supérieur.
  • Utilisez la languette de la batterie pour la sortir du boîtier supérieur.

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Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur de la nappe du pavé tactile pour le débrancher de la carte mère.
  • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur de la nappe du pavé tactile pour le débrancher de la carte mère.

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Dévissez les quatre vis cruciformes de 1,3 mm fixant le bord supérieur du pavé tactile au boîtier supérieur.
  • Dévissez les quatre vis cruciformes de 1,3 mm fixant le bord supérieur du pavé tactile au boîtier supérieur.

I did this a while ago and I just wanted to add that my trackpad wouldn't click. As soon as I had the battery out I was stuck by how loose the set screw was (big flat torx head screw at the bottom center of the track pad). I had to play with the tension a little bit to get it an acceptable level of play but now my track pad works like new. Thanks iFixit and everyone who contributes to these guides!

John Tipton - Réponse

My 00 Phillips head is doing nothing to remove the 1.3 mm screws that hold the trackpad in. Any suggestions? I also tried a 0 and a 000. Don't want to keep playing around in case it strips the screws, but they are really stuck in there...

Amity Higgins - Réponse

Use a longer, sturdier screw driver. Either that or the screws have been thread locked in too tight at the factory. Apply more pressure. I mean, way more like, medium-hard pressure. if you don't care that much, apply hard pressure (If you're desperate apply even harder, just not so much it cracks the glass). Pressure is what holds the screwdriver in the screw, prevents it from slipping and stripping the screw! This is probably bad advice... I know.

weeowey weeowey -

Can Absolutely confirm weeowey weeowey's comment. Put your hand under the trackpad and really give the screwdriver some pressure. You might end up damaging a screw, but every replacement trackpad I've ever bought has come with replacement screws.

jbartlet - Réponse

Inclinez soigneusement le pavé tactile en l'éloignant du côté clavier du boîtier supérieur.
  • Inclinez soigneusement le pavé tactile en l'éloignant du côté clavier du boîtier supérieur.

  • Enlevez le pavé tactile de son emplacement dans le boîtier supérieur pour dégager les deux languettes d'attache sur le bord inférieur.

When remounting the trackpad, ensure you support it from the keyboard side when tightening the screws to ensure it's not crooked.

Stephanie Donley - Réponse

Highly recommend adjusting the T6 torx screw to ensure correct operation of the trackpad. Have the battery connected but not installed (so as to have access to the screw). Start up the computer. Test the click function at any time. Using very minor adjustments, turn the screw until you can see that the computer responds to clicks. When you are satisfied that it is working correctly, go ahead and shut down the computer and proceed with reassembly. It doesn’t hurt to give the unit a good clean while you are in there as this will avoid problems later, eg overheating due to dust blocking airflow etc. use an artists paintbrush and a vacuum cleaner or (gently) blow it away with (clean) compressed air. Some compressors have oil spray or water from condensation in the air, so use a filter in the line to avoid contamination.

Stephen Keyte - Réponse

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16 commentaires

Guide is very helpful...makes the replacement of this part easy. Thanks.

nih4ever7 - Réponse

My track pad was working intermittently and having a mind of it's own. Instead of going to a repair shop for a pricey fix, I followed this guide and removed the track pad, cleaned it up and hey presto it's fine now! Thanks for the guide, very easy to follow!!

Andrew von Moeller - Réponse

How did you clean the track pad? Did you just clean the connector. I'm also having similar issues, my tack pad starts having a mind of its on randomly after few minutes/hours.

Sapeksh Madan -

dirt can get trapped around or under the trackpad, causing touch malfunctions. removing this dirt usually fixes touch issues and maybe sometimes a click issue if dirt is under the trackpad

weeowey weeowey -

Does anyone have anymore information on the adjustment screw mentioned by John Tipton on Nov 6? I have made some adjustments to it and found tightening it actually locks out the ability of a USB external mouse from operating, and does not correct the problem of the internal track pad click function failing to operate. I suspect adjusting it properly may fix some of our track pad issues, but I have not discovered the proper way of making this adjustment.

paulhjacobs - Réponse

My trackpad has stopped working, took the machine apart using above and there was some sticky mess that had been stopping the click from resetting.

Brilliant and much cheaper than the genius bar by using my 99p tri wing screwdriver!

James Pearce - Réponse

Thank you. This guide is helpful, thank you for posting. Also thanks for selling the tools that let me do the replacement, I was able to replace the part with no hassle and the laptop is working fine again.

Raymond Santos - Réponse

These instructions worked perfectly - took less than an hour to replace the trackpad on our MacBook.

alleno - Réponse

This guide is about the 5th or 6th guide I have used and every one of them is very well constructed and documented, I haven't been disappointed with any of them.

Up until this one I had made do with my own miscellaneous tool assortment, making do when I didn't have the exact driver bit or tool. The tri-wing screws in this one encouraged me to get the Pro Tech ToolKit Classic Pro Tech Toolkit and now I kick myself for not getting the proper tools sooner. All through my career as a Remodeling Contractor I maintained the attitude of using the 'right tool for the job'. Well, same holds true here.

Looking forward to my next iFixit job. Thank you iFixit.

buz - Réponse

Worked perfectly! Thanks much.

marshmcjunkin - Réponse

Great Step by Step easy to Follow Guide I am truly impressed.

I believe I might need special iTools for some of the screws ??

Unitel Design - Réponse

So I get a replacement trackpad, it was easy to replace however now I have to push really hard to get an active click (for some reason the right side works better than the left). I have taken the battery out to see if that was the issue (it was not, still didn't register a click with the battery out). What is the easiest way to remove the "setter screw", the T6 screw that adjusts the depth of the click. I need to replace it but I cannot for the life of me get it out of the casing.

Joshua Dodge - Réponse

It works great!!! i clean the trackpad!!!

xbox360vs720 - Réponse

my track pad was acting ups I pulled it to clean it. works great now.

pjschmitt - Réponse

How did you clean..? just clean the connectors..?

wunna -

Had an erratic pad on a users machine - looked like liquid ingress (coffee stains in bottom of case) Used 99% isopropyl alcohol, in a ziplock bag to soak the trackpad (without the cable) Worked the alcohol into the pad for a minute or two, removed, air dried for 15/20 mins followed by a quick blow with a hot air gun. Cleaned around the top of the case where the trackpad recess is too. Refitted trackpad, connector and battery and tested - trackpad is as good as new. Please follow precautions when using isopropyl alcohol, it is very flammable.

Jim Clews - Réponse

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