Introduction
Si le pavé directionnel de votre Nintendo 3DS XL 2015 fonctionne mal ou ne fonctionne pas du tout, ce guide de remplacement vous aidera à résoudre le problème.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Placez la 3DS à l'envers. Enlevez la cartouche de jeu, écouteurs, chargeur, stylet et tout ce qui pourrait être connecté à la console.
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A l'aide d'un tournevis JIS #0, dévissez les deux vis sur l'arrière.
My experience indicates that a JIS #1 is more appropriate here.
Same here, much more appropriate.
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La batterie est localisée sur la partie gauche de la console - pour l'enlever, utilisez la petite encoche en haut et au milieu puis soulevez la avec un outil pointu non métallique.
Also you should remove any SD card at this point
Does this battery work on a NEW 3DS XL model?
This guide is for the New 3DS XL, which is called the 2015 3DS XL here on iFixit. If you're asking about the 3DS replacement battery advertised in the iFixit store, I believe it works for both new and old models.
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Avec un tournevis JIS #000, enlevez les six vis de 6mm sur le contour du second couvercle.
I used a #00 instead it works better for a model form 2016
remove the micro Sd card or the shell wont come off and damage the Sd card reader and the connecter
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À l'aide d'une pincette, retirez doucement les plots en caoutchouc situés sur la partie supérieure de la 3DS. Cela révèlera deux autres vis de 6mm. Enlevez également ces vis avec un tournevis JIS #000.
Can the rubber bumpers be replaced once you reassemble the 3DS? I'd really hate to have to take them out and never be able to put them back in, if I'm honest...
Yep, we were able to put them back in quite easily after repeated teardowns! If they ever refused to stay in for some reason, you could always put a little bit of something sticky on them. (I use scrapbooking tape on my laptop's bumpers.)
What happens if I strip one of these screws? How hard would into be to remove them?
very hard. i stripped 4 screws on my new 3ds xl and i haven’t been able to get them out. i even bought the precision screw extrator set and nothing the set sucked.
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Pour séparer la coque, soulevez la doucement du côté des charnières (de manière à libérer le port pour écouteurs) puis pivotez le vers les charnières pour exposer les cartes électroniques.
I accidentally opened it and broke the ribbon cable to the r and zr buttons by accident. How do I fix it?
You have to replace the whole thing.
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Utilisez une paire de pinces pour libérer les deux connecteurs des nappes de boutons L / R / ZL / ZR de la carte mère. Vous pouvez maintenant enlever complètement la coque arrière et la mettre de côté.
I discovered that there is enough clearance to slide the Game Cartridge Slot assembly out without removing the motherboard. Just remove the two connectors going to the Cartridge Slot assembly and take out the 3 screws holding it down. There were two screws that look like they are holding the assembly down, but they are only holes through the assembly and don’t actually hold it down. At least on the Pokemon version, New 3DS XL that I had.
Can confirm, it's leagues easier to do it that way than to go to the trouble of removing the entire motherboard, potentially screwing something up in the process. Thank you so much for sharing this alternative method!
I third this alternative method for D-pad replacement. To add to the previously noted detail, you also need to disconnect a 3rd connector going to the Cartridge Slot assembly, the one going to the D-pad Board itself which is underneath the Cartridge Slot assembly, which is shown at a later step in this guide. Also, I found I needed to loosen the two screws on the motherboard located nearest the Cartridge Slot assembly in order to get enough clearance to slide the assembly out, as there are two plastic guide stands that hold the assembly in place which the motherboard otherwise holds too tightly to pass. Otherwise, incredibly smooth sailing, minimal connectors removed, and my New 3DS LL import model finally has a working left/right again. Thanks everyone!
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Utilisez une pince à épiler pour relever le petit rabat de verrouillage à charnière afin de déverrouiller le connecteur ZIF fixant le ruban du tampon circulaire.
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Faites glisser le ruban hors du connecteur ZIF.
Is not the right side, the switch must be pull to the left, otherwise people will brake it.
I suggest removing the joystick first, swing to left side, then lift up on ZIF connector from the right. You’re able to pull ribbon cable out easier from the left at that point w/o breaking it, as I did.
2nd the removing of the joystick first via the two screws and to be careful handling the plastic washer underneath. It’s coated with a Teflon type material to aid in stick movement. also use a finger nail over tweezers any change you get. A nail is less rigid with natural give and less likely to break plastic latches. If it doesn’t open from the end you expect, stop, and try the other side right away. Be gently.
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Localisez le connecteur doré avec un câble rouge en haut à gauche de la carte mère. Soulevez le délicatement avec vos doigts vers le haut pour l'enlever.
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Utilisez une pincette pour débrancher l'unique nappe du connecteur.
MDR j'avais vu cette erreur il y a un petit moment... et vous pouvez ajouter, ne pas casser le connecteur comme sur la photo !
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À l'aide d'une paire de pinces, tirez délicatement les cinq nappes marquées hors de leurs connecteurs ZIF sur les bords de la carte mère.
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Trois des nappes ont des connecteurs à verrou. Utilisez une pince pour les soulever avant d'ôter les nappes.
Hi,
Can you pls inform me the purpose of the topmost red marked ZIF transparent flex cable, I wish to repair my N3DS XL but I am missing this flex cable (for which part is this cable relevant).
Thanks
I don't have the model on me for reference, but if I remember correctly, it's for the bottom screen.
I think it should be noted that the upper most ZIF is incorrectly labelled here as one to remove with tweezers and not to try to open the clamp. I did this recently and have now broken my brand new 3ds. This cable is for the digitizer at the front of the bottom screen. So my touch screen no longer works. I now need to carry out a further repair. Just a heads up.
Accurate. I have to purchase a new digitizer because of this. I tore the conductors in the cable removing it from the ZIF connector. And I’m really very angry that no correction has been made in the almost 9 months since you posted.
Sabs Like Labs, can you please share a picture of your connector ? last time I dismounted one I had no problems with this connector but maby there are different versions ?
Zoe, I don’t suppose you would know what part to search for to replace one of these lock-less friction connectors? Before this article posted I partially broke one of mine thinking it had a lock and would like to replace it. The old one still works but I have to fiddle with it to get a good connection now. The one I broke is nearest to the cartridge socket.
&&^& all those tutoriel now is just break my new 3ds &&^& you internet
I broke my connectors the little gray pieces broke not the touch screen and the joy stick are broken.
I can confirm there are two different versions of the clip. One flips up and just pushes in
As others have mentioned, the topmost red connector HAS A CLAMP that you need to flip up. It seems like the creator of this guide has a 3ds with older board revision. With multiple people already having brought up the issue, the creator should absolutely update this guide to note the differences as others have already broken their devices due to this guide.
Can confirm that the top most connector has a clamp on mine as well. tore the ribbon cable taking it out and now my bottom screen touch screen is unresponsive. also if you are on this guide looking to replace the game card reader, i also found out after trying to replace mine … You DO NOT need to remove the motherboard in order to replace it !
Then digitizer absolutely should be updated to note, I also broke the GREY clamp off, when treying to remove, and bought a new one.
I believe this to be the replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WQY7N9?psc...
I also ruined the digitizer connector thinking it had a lock (yes, I failed to read the guide correctly). I ordered another motherboard that cost me $100 (ifixit had none in stock, only option on ebay) only to find out it still doesn't work (now for some reason no button nor touchscreen work which doesn't even make sense since they all have different connectors). Please update this guide to point people to just remove the card reader without taking the motherboard off. I could have avoided all this by just replacing the card reader directly.
Wow...ifixit is flat out lying about that top connector. There is no such thing as 2 different board revisions. ALL models have the clamp type connector. If you zoom in you can clearly see the creator has broken off the clamp in the pictures and is misrepresenting it as a friction connector. Unbelievable.
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Pivotez doucement la carte mère à 90 degrés vers les charnières pour révéler deux connecteurs ZIF supplémentaires sous la carte.
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Les deux ont des verrous qu'il faut soulever. Celui de gauche est long et noir; celui de droite est plus court et blanc. Soulevez les clapets, otez les nappes et retirez la carte mère.
9-15 aren't necessary at all. Its a super easy fix step 16 is sufficient.
I think you might be confused; this is a guide for replacing the motherboard, not the entire bottom half of the unit.
The top says this is a guide for the directional pad though
Jimmy -
Oh! Apologies; I didn't realize iFixit duplicated comments for duplicate steps. The message alert directed me to the motherboard replacement guide. Whoops.
Anyway, as I recall, the card reader was more safely and easily removed once the motherboard was out of the way. But I agree that it was likely doable without. Thank you for the input!
Getting the ribbons back in can be a challenge but don’t give up. Pull them taught and try to work at an angle that give you the most length.
Do you know the name of the shorter zif connector, or how to order it? I am talking about the one that is on the botton side of the board,that sometime it is hard to connect the ribbon cable. I think it has like 30 pins. Thank you.
What is the name or how to order the small zif connectors that is on the bottom side of the board, I think it has like 30 pins. Thank you
I just want to swap out lcd screens, what steps can I omit? this is the only bottom screen guide online and so many bricks wtf can’t someone make a video like top lcds there are many.
Update about the commentaries above :
If your goal is to replace something in the top part of the console, steps 9-15 are still necessary as all of the components up there travel through the R hinge to connect to the main board.
- Top screen and Audio/3D cable connect to the back of the motherboard shown at step 15 (screen is the left one shown on the illustration).
- Camera bar connects to the front of the motherboard (step 13, shown as the up-and-rightmost orange connector)
- Wifi antenna connects to the antenna connector (step 12), probably the easiest to replace without disconnecting the motherboard since it doesn't involve rolling up and threading a flat cable through the hinge.
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Retirez les cinq vis de 5 mm du panneau du lecteur de cartouche à l'aide d'un tournevis JIS # 000.
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Le lecteur de cartouche de jeu peut maintenant être retiré et remplacé.
There’s a ribbon cable on the game card reader that wasn’t mentioned in this guide.
It also tells us to remove two screws from the d-pad that is mentioned later, since these are a different size I believe it’s best to leave those screws for the next step.
The replacement card reader I got must've have had some issue with the connectors. I had to place some extra foam to put pressure on the ribbon cable, otherwise it either didn't recognize any card, made the d-pad act up, or both.
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À l'aide d'un JIS #000, retirez quatre vis de 3 mm du panneau carré.
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Retirez le panneau en le soulevant vers le haut.
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Pour remonter votre console, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre console, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce tutoriel.
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Équipe
Cal Poly, Team 24-4, Lancaster Spring 2015 Membre de l'équipe Cal Poly, Team 24-4, Lancaster Spring 2015
CPSU-LANCASTER-S15S24G4
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25 tutoriels rédigés
11 commentaires
FYI: Under Tools you state a Philips #000 is needed but in the instructions you have JIS #000.
Submitted an edit! I corrected some of the bit sizes in the instructions as well (in our repair, a #00 was never used).
FYI: Under Step 13, you missed 1 ribbon cable that also needs to be detached in order for the motherboard to be separated. It is the tiny IC housed in a small PCB near the bottom left of the C-Stick. In fact, this little ribbon gets separated and reattached throughout your guide pictures starting with step 8. Here is a link to the ribbon in question (Note: Pic borrwed from Step 12 which highlights the red cable. Look for my lighter arrow which shows the missing ribbon): http://i.imgur.com/0V7QI4i.jpg
Thanks for the tip! The ribbon cable has been added to Step 12. Feel free to edit it to add anything specific about the procedure.
Total lack of information in these fix instructions about the new black zif connectors. The ones we have all be used to for years are mention in detail (eg. the one for the toddle stick). But nothing about the new ones that supply the home button, mic etc. I have today totally wrecked a customer’s new 3DS XL as a direct result of following this guide. As these new zifs were not mentioned I thought (stupidly) they should just be flipped up but obviously this destroys them. Whoever makes these guides would know these clips to be a problem but neglected to warn would be fixers about them (was it deliberate as I cannot think why you would neglect such a crucial fact). I am still not sure how they operate -. Yours felling stupid for trusting ifix and also very let down.
Apologies; I'm neither an iFixit employee nor do I usually fiddle with circuitboards.
That said, you'll notice that there was a warning about these ZIF connectors on step 13. I've moved the warning to the topmost bullet and added more detailed information concerning the connectors. Let me know if you have any questions!
you said to remove 5 5mm screws in one step, but then in the next step you said to remove 4 3mm screws, and 2 of the screws were the same screws you said to remove in the first instruction. Do i put 5mm or 3mm screws back in?
I have no clue what the author of this was playing at. There is absolutely no reason to remove the motherboard for this.
For anyone reading, YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD. The DPAD mechanism is perfectly accessible with the motherboard remaining in place.
Thank you for this info. Which steps can I skip then? 13, 14, and 15 I assume?
