Introduction
L'écran est fissuré ou défectueux? Remplacez-le.
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Insérez un éjecteur de carte SIM ou un trombone dans le trou près de la prise casque.
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Appuyez jusqu'à ce que le tiroir de carte SIM sorte.
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YOU NEED TO PUT THE OPENER TOOL BETWEEN THE ANTENNA COVER AND THE DOCK CONNECTOR FIRST, THEN YOU WILL HAVE SPACE TO OPEN IT.. MY 2 CENTS
You better lay off the caps.
Very hard to remove and the plastic is very fragile
Take care when removing
When you get stuck follow this guy guide
Great Guide.
My dad banged his iPhone in a table after arguing with someone and got the aluminum cover next to the volume control bent in such a way as it got the volume control stuck in the max position. I used this guide to remove all parts out of the way so I can get the shape of that region and corrected it the "Han Solo" Way. It was an excellent opportunity to get the phone cleaned up as well
The biggest problem I had was screwing some of the screws back. The screwdriver that I had was not magnetized, so I used a little bit of superglue to bind the screw and the screwdriver until I had it screwed tightly.
The second biggest problem I had was that I lost a screw twice, but was lucky enough to find it quickly on the floor next to me.
I am very happy as I waited more than a month to get the confidence to get this iPhone repaired.
Citation de Ivanfrost :
how do i know what part is in my phone? There are 2...
Once you have the phone apart and have gently unplugged the power ribbon, read the part number on the ribbon. If it's in the 821- family, you can safely use corresponding 821 headphone assembly. If it is the other part number, use the newer replacement. Many sites list both parts and let you order the appropriately numbered part. Otherwise (if you order the wrong part) it won't work or you'll have to [unnecessarily] hack the part to get it to work.
Citation de Steve :
Once you have the phone apart and have gently unplugged the power ribbon, read the part number on the ribbon. If it's in the 821- family, you can safely use corresponding 821 headphone assembly. If it is the other part number, use the newer replacement. Many sites list both parts and let you order the appropriately numbered part. Otherwise (if you order the wrong part) it won't work or you'll have to [unnecessarily] hack the part to get it to work.
I bought the wrong one.... how do I hack it?
My iPhone is very first model. It doesn't have any of the four tabs shown.
The very first model does not have the four tabs. To open this version, use a plastic opener tool and push it into the middle of the tiny space between the rectangular dock connector and the antenna cover. Move the tool to the side and push it in a little deeper. A small gap should open up at the bottom of the antenna cover, where it meets the metal. Continue using the plastic opener tool in there, pushing it in and forcing it around the edge so that the antenna cover further separates. Then repeat this on the other side. To me it seems like a very brittle piece of plastic, so be careful. But now that it's loose at the bottom you can lift it with your fingers and work it off.
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Insérez une spatule (spudger) en métal dans la fente entre le connecteur de dock et le cache de l'antenne. Faites délicatement levier près des deux languettes pour créer un petit interstice entre le cache de l'antenne et le joint frontal argenté.
Take heed to the note about getting the spudger between the dock connector and the cover. The dock connector is black plastic, as is the antenna cover, so it's difficult to see any gap between them. Putting the spudger between the metal shielding of the connector and the plastic is incorrect.
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Insérez un opening tool (outil d'ouverture en plastique) dans l'interstice entre le cache de l'antenne et le cadre avant. L'extrémité en forme de cale doit pointer vers le cache de l'antenne. Faites glisser l'outil autour du coin et vers le haut jusqu'au revers métallique.
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Répétez la même procédure de l'autre côté du connecteur de dock.
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Saisissez le cache de l'antenne des deux côtés et faites-le glisser vers le haut et hors de l'iPhone. Ceci peut demander une certaine force. Si le cache ne s'enlève pas, vérifiez qu'il a été suffisamment soulevé pour dégager les loquets.
It was released very hard on my iPhone 2G but the problem comes when i have to put it back.
It remains a little more space between the dock and the Antena cover and maybe that's because the two tabs between the mic and the speaker are not entered under the gold board?
If someone knows please tell me how to put it back.
Thanks
There is a very easy way to remove the cover by simply sticking duct tape on it and pulling the tape away of the phone.
It will leave no marks and it didn't damage my antenna cover as much(my "chinese" repair tools were to weak).
Thanks, using the tape was quick and easy, no damage at all.
Roeland -
Brilliant. Works perfectly. 20 seconds of work.
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Retirez les trois vis cruciformes #00 qui maintiennent le panneau arrière fixé à l'iPhone.
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Le petit trou carré est l'endroit où il faut insérer le cure-dents lors de la prochaine étape.
Be sure to use the square hole, more to the inside, not the one between the outer shell and the little piece of metal. The Outer shell is attached to the metal.
You guys show this is vanilla dessert. And it's more difficult than building a DIY space shuttle. I wonder why Apple did the iPhone so problematic to disassemble. It's just the battery!
I've seen some instructions recommending using a knife to open up a space between the back cover and trim. Using the dental pick as shown here, it is very easy to break off the screw attachment near the edge of the cover.
Agree with Bill, I did break off one of the screw attachments. In retrospect, using a small putty knife between the cover and battery (which I'm replacing anyways) to apply force against the cover while prying at the hole would have helped.
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Faites levier sur le panneau arrière en tournant rapidement le cure-dents en sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre (trigonométriquement). Appliquez la force perpendiculairement au plan de l'écran. N'hésitez pas de faire ce mouvement rapidement, si vous le faites lentement vous risquez davantage de tordre le boîtier.
ugh. i totally mangled my case. snapped off the 2 outer screw brackets... broke my dental pick, too. and my small screwdriver. thank goodness for craftsman tools! ;)
i was pretty disheartened by the whole thing, but i keep it in a hard shell anyway so it's not that noticeable.
What material is that dental pick made of? Adamantium?
I could NOT get this method to work. I tried three different picks and all bent when I tried to lever them this way. I did break one of the frame screws off in the process as well. I ended up going back to my old standby... The Exacto Knife and a 1/8 inch flat head screw driver... I used the exacto to get the flat head started, then worked my way up one side toward the top of the phone slowly and carefully wiggling the screw driver until it popped open on that side. Then I did the same to the other. That worked well for me. These plastic openers and dental picks just bent and broke on me. GOOD LUCK. My Advice: Get a 3G or 3GS, I can break one down in under a minute!
I didn't have a dental pick. I used a narrow, flexible hobby putty knife. The button side edge popped right off. The blank side required me to slowly wiggle along, continually pushing the putty knife up to 2" to detach each of the clips.
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Répétez la même procédure de l'autre côté de l'iPhone. Faites glisser le cure-dents complètement dans le trou carré. Il va probablement falloir tortiller l'outil et forcer un peu pour le faire rentrer entièrement.
wich dental pick should I use? I´d bought some but they twist or didn´t fit on the scare... thx in advance and really good guide!!
I know this is old, but I've had some success. Rather than the dental pick, which I bent too, I ground down a very small "L" bend hex wrench. Worked like a champ. Also: If you have an iPhone 4 and are looking to use the microSIM in your 1st gen iPhone with the use of a microSIM adaptor... DO NOT put the empty adaptor in the SIM slot. That's what I did and had to dismantle the phone to get it repair the SIM contacts.
Actually, the "button" side released fairly easily and I was able to loosen the top end with a plastic spudger. However, the remaining side was a @#!@! and the process of popping it off caused the protruding screw lug to break off the internal guide, which itself came off seconds later. Oof! While the side guide was easily glued back in, the lug ultimately became a casualty since it was too small and unweildy to SuperGlue™ back on. But, as Meat Loaf wisely sings, "two out of three ain't bad." The 'phone can live w/o one screw and possibly two if the center lug remains.
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Faites levier sur le panneau arrière en tournant rapidement le cure-dents en sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre (trigonométriquement). Appliquez la force perpendiculairement au plan de l'écran. N'hésitez pas de faire ce mouvement rapidement, si vous le faites lentement vous risquez davantage de tordre le boîtier.
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Le panneau arrière est toujours relié à l'iPhone par la nappe de la prise casque, ne retirez donc pas encore entièrement le panneau arrière de l'iPhone.
I've seen some guides that recommend a technique for prying up on the center of the case. if you do so, it is easy to accidentally damage the battery if you pry in the wrong direction.
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A l'aide d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez la nappe de la prise casque de la carte mère.
You need to stick the end in, and it detaches if you push it upwards.
A picture of what the dental pick is poking at would be useful inside the back case. If you get on the wrong side of the frame rail you can break the ear where the screw goes pretty easily with that pick (yes it appears to be titanium). Guess that is why only the plastic pick was part of the toolset, but used a metal one as depicted and ran into this. As you say this is challenging, and more pictures are better.
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Retirez la bande orange qui attache la nappe blanche de l'antenne sur le côté de l'iPhone.
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A l'aide d'une spatule (spudger), déconnectez les nappes d'antenne de la carte de communication. Apple a utilisé un peu de colle sur ces connexions, ce qui peut rendre leur retrait un peu plus difficile.
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Passez de l'autre côté de la carte mère et, à l'aide de la spatule, déconnectez la nappe de capteur sur l'envers de la carte mère.
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Saisissez la batterie et la carte mère et faites glissez les deux composants en les éloignant de l'antenne orange et retirez-les de l'iPhone.
Tips for reinstalling the mainboard:
* De-solder the battery from the mainboard once you have it out - it will make it much easier to reinstall.
* When you go to put it back together, remove the kapton (orange) tape over the 'S' shaped ribbon cable, and carefully unstick it from the metal plate.
* Start by ensuring the ZIF socket's clip is open, then work re-setting the 3 connectors at the top of the iPhone while holding the main board at a 45° angle to the front.
* Then pull the S shaped ribbon cable out and gently and place it into its slot being careful to make sure its lined up perfectly straight and close the socket's clip.
* Screw it all down and stick the S shaped connector back down with kapton tape if you have it, otherwise normal tape will do.
* Re-solder the battery back on and stick it back down into place.
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Seul l'écran reste.
NOTE: If you are an individual who is replacing just the Digitizer and Glass screen; there is one more step to the process. (which is the most difficult)
Follow this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1z0pw2VK...
starting at 4mins and 14 seconds (4:14)
Folks! If you are changing the whole Displayunit(within Digitizer and Glas) TAKE CARE!!!!! Nowhere (even not in the linked video by Lee above) is explained, that BEFORE lifting the lower side of the old display you have to seperate the small plastic slice hodling the home button!!! I followed the video, carefully concentrated on the four wraparound-cables at the top. Then, after removing the unit, I detected, that a supermall flexcable going to the homebutton was ripped off!!!
You may say, ok, you have JB, theres a soft workaround using the iPhone without home button. I will try. Probblem: The Flex Cable was kind of an T-Piece, going from left to right on the board, and the "T" going up to the home butten. So there is more interruption than just the homebutton.... i will try...
I am really angry.... Why did the not say in the video "and before lifitng the display unit, seperate the plastice slice holding the home button from the display unit, carfully, it is glued and almost no Millimeters room to move, otherwise you will break a small flexcable, not seeable before, because hidden by the displayunit itself!!!!...."
If you got a new display/digitizer make sure that the grill in front of the speaker/ear is there. Mine didn't have one, I first noticed it when the phone was assembled.
If you have to assemble the phone again, it it easier to connect the 90 degree cable as the last cable in step 22-24. It gives you more room to connect the other cables first.
If you have are looking for a guide to replace digitizer only and the youtube video above is too quick: http://www.portatronics.com/guide/iPhone...
Start from Step 19 after you have completed ifixit's 31st step.
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Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.
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4 commentaires
I'll second rafa74's comment: be VERY careful about putting too much stress on the TINY cable that connects the Home button to the rest of its assembly! I ripped mine as well. You have to slowly separate the Home button's plastic sub-assembly from the display module itself (with a kitchen knife, for example). Otherwise the moment you start parting the display module from the mid-board, you run the risk of tearing the Home button cable... it's far too easy.
This guide neglects to point out some very important things at the end of the removal process. For example, that the glass is glued to the phone, or which connectors have to come with the display assembly on the way out.
This is my first opening session and sounds great !!! Thanks I fix it
I swapped motherboard + battery between 2 original iPhone models, but now on one the touchscreen won’t work even if the connector is attached. The flat looks PERFECT, that’s what bothers me the most, the connector looks also greet, same goes for the “slot” on the motherboard. What is going on? I needed to literarily detach the display assembly from the mid frame, tough, to also swap the 2 displays assemblies (long story). Do the touch for some reason won’t work until I put the bezel and all the screws? Thanks
To remove the SIM, insert the end of a SIM eject tool or a small thin paper clip into the hole on the SIM tray. Press firmly and push the tool straight in until the tray pops out.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1438
neuronetix - Réponse
I put the SIM card back in, and the slide to unlock does not work.
dean -
The only carrier to accept this iPhone was AT&T, they have discontinued use of that baseband. Nobody else in the world except for early renegade reverse engineers such as Geohot can get the device to work as a really old iPod no use unlocking the device because the technology inside the most recently OEM sold/refurbed iPhone 1st gen fails universally. You should only buy a screen assembly and snap it onto the back and call it a dummy phone and put it in a museum.
Alexander Weinhart - Réponse