Grâce à ce tutoriel, remplacez seulement l'écran LCD à la place de l'écran complet.

  1. Retirez les 10 vis suivantes par lesquelles est fixé le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody :
    • Retirez les 10 vis suivantes par lesquelles est fixé le boîtier inférieur du MacBook Pro 13" Unibody :

      • Sept vis Phillips 3 mm.

      • Trois vis Phillips 13,5 mm.

    It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.

    scott523 - Réponse

    The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!

    iphonetechtips -

    A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."

    In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.

    johnsawyercjs -

    One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha ( cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.

    Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:

    Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.

    johnsawyercjs -

    Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.

    David Fear -

    Perfect man!Many thanks!:)

    wertaerte - Réponse

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    twisk - Réponse

    thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.

    BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.

    xitxit2 -

    i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big

    plins718 - Réponse

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - Réponse

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone:

    Eric Sorenson - Réponse

    Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.

    danzeitlin -

    I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.

    jonathanmorgan - Réponse

    I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.

    john - Réponse

    Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?

    Igor - Réponse

    The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.

    Some info here:

    "1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"

    "*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."

    Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.

    Winston -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - Réponse

    I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.

    tarriojuan - Réponse

    Had no idea they were so expensive.

    Franklin - Réponse

    Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.

    Luis Soto - Réponse

    There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?

    Luis - Réponse

    If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.

    gkofga - Réponse

    What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.

    John Doe -

    <i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>

    I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)

    THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.

    Joseph King - Réponse

    It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...

    Mike - Réponse

    Wonderful guide

    Freda - Réponse

  2. Soulevez légèrement le boîtier inférieur et poussez-le vers l'arrière de l'ordinateur afin de désengager les pattes de fixation.
    • Soulevez légèrement le boîtier inférieur et poussez-le vers l'arrière de l'ordinateur afin de désengager les pattes de fixation.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc:

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - Réponse

    • À titre de précaution, nous vous conseillons de débrancher le connecteur de la batterie de la carte mère afin d'éviter les décharges électriques.

    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.

    why is step 3 necessary?

    gansodesoya - Réponse

    Cita de gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - Réponse

    Citation de gansodesoya :

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.

    amiller770 - Réponse

    I'm thinking of ordering the spudger. I was thinking of order the heavy duty spudger... or should I just order the normal. Will either of the spudgers work for this DIY?

    shockaaa - Réponse

    Once you have a set of spudgers, you will wonder how you ever went without them. :-)

    Brian -

    $@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(

    Lukas Besch - Réponse

    You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.

    Logan Bean -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - Réponse

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?


    bduault - Réponse

    Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.

    amiller770 -

    I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?

    Plamen - Réponse

    I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working

    marioluiggi -

    A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).


    Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)


    Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.

    Luis Soto - Réponse

    Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.

    Everett Whiteman - Réponse

    It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.

    Knox Karima - Réponse

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - Réponse

    Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.

    clsmithj - Réponse

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), soulevez le connecteur de la nappe du caisson de basse/du haut-parleur droit pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Faites levier sous les fils.

    Mine had a small piece of insulating material on top of the connector. By removing that first, I could then pry up the connector with less stress on the cable.

    istlota - Réponse

    Great tip! Thanks.

    juliet - Réponse

    • Déconnectez la nappe de la caméra en tirant l'extrémité mâle tout droit hors de la prise.

    • Assurez-vous de tirer sur le connecteur parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère, en direction du lecteur optique et non vers le haut.

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    • Dégagez le câble de données de la caméra de la rainure dans le lecteur optique.

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    • Dévissez les vis suivantes :

      • Deux vis cruciformes de 10 mm

      • Une vis cruciforme de 3,8 mm

    • Faites glisser la fixation du câble de la caméra hors de son emplacement sous le caisson de basse et ôtez-la de l'ordinateur.

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    • Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.

    • Tirez le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise.

    • Veillez à tirer le connecteur hors de sa prise et non vers le haut.

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    • Dévissez les deux vis suivantes, attachant la fixation du câble de données de l'écran au boîtier supérieur :

      • Une vis cruciforme de 8,6 mm.

      • Une vis cruciforme de 5,6 mm.

    • Ôtez la fixation du câble de données de l'écran du boîtier supérieur.

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    • Si présent, ôtez le petit morceau de bande adhésive en mousse fixé sur les vis de l'écran à côté du câble de données de l'écran.

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    • Dévissez les deux vis extérieures Torx T8 de 6,5 mm fixant chacune des deux fixations de l'écran au boîtier supérieur (4 vis au total).

    You may have to lift/remove a foam tape on the left side as well

    Sebastien CHAPUIS - Réponse

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    • Ouvrez votre MacBook de sorte que l'écran est perpendiculaire au boîtier supérieur.

    • Posez votre MacBook ouvert sur une table comme sur la photo.

    • Pendant que vous maintenez l'écran et le boîtier supérieur d'une main, dévissez la vis Torx T8 de 6,5 mm de la fixation inférieure de l'écran.

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    • Veillez à maintenir l'écran et le boîtier supérieur avec votre main gauche. Si vous les lâchez, vous risquez de faire tomber l'écran ou le boîtier inférieur et donc de les abîmer.

    • Dévissez la dernière vis Torx T8 mm fixant l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

    When reassembling, Careful not to drop your screw, or it may get stuck to the (magnetic) power adapter port. Oops!

    Save yourself some time and don't drop it!

    rowdyferret - Réponse

    • Saisissez le boîtier supérieur de votre main droite et faites-le légèrement pivoter vers le haut de l'écran de sorte que la fixation supérieure de l'écran s'éloigne du bord du boîtier supérieur.

    • Faites pivoter et éloignez légèrement l'écran du boîtier supérieur.

    Make sure you make a 90 degree angle between the keyboard and the display before taking out the screws. If you have less than a 90, you will never get it apart due to the upper display bracket shape. It has to be at the right angle or it won't come out.

    mastover - Réponse

    I place it over keyboard side down hanging over a table. This way I know it's at 90 degrees and it also makes it easier to take it off.

    Nick - Réponse

    • Soulevez et éloignez l'écran du boîtier supérieur en veillant à ce que aucune fixation ni aucune nappe ne reste accrochée.

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    • Au cours des étapes suivantes, vous aurez besoin d'une pistolet à air chaud pour ramollir la colle fixant la bordure extérieure noire à l'écran toute autour de la face intérieure de la vitre avant. La zone où la colle a été mise est marquée en rouge sur la seconde photo.

    • Réglez le pistolet à air chaud à température basse et commencez à chauffer la bordure extérieure noire, du côté du coin supérieur droit de l'écran.

    • Ne pointez jamais le pistolet sur la bande souple en caoutchouc autour de la vitre. Si vous chauffez le caoutchouc, vous risquez de le faire fondre légèrement et de rendre brillante sa surface matte. Si vous touchez le caoutchouc surchauffé, vous risquez de le déformer définitivement.

    • Dû à la chaleur appliquée, il est normal qu'une couche de condensation se forme à l'intérieur de la vitre et/ou à l'extérieur de l'écran LCD. Vous pouvez l'enlevez avec du nettoyant pour vitres une fois que la vitre est séparée de l'écran.

    Heating rubber strip it becomes glossy You can turn it to matte using ultrafine sandpaper (very ultrafine!!!) P2500

    Silvio - Réponse

    Great piece of advice. Thank you!

    Brian -

    With a lot of heating, for me, it was very hard to get the glass to separate from the case. I had better luck starting from the bottom right as I could grip better onto the case. Three mistakes I made:

    1. Once I got the glass separated, I probably didn't heat sufficiently as I was going around and the glass broke. That made the rest of the procedure miserable. Lesson: pull very gently.

    2. I must have touched one of the tiny bits of glass that fell on the LCD and it scratched the actual screen. :-(. Lesson: vacuum the pieces as you go and be very careful when touching the LCD.

    3. I somehow overheated the LCD screen at the top left and right corners and now the display is all wonky and faded at the corners. Not sure what the lesson is here.

    Athanassios Diacakis - Réponse

    First, if using a hair dryer, what setting should that be operated at? It would be much cooler than the heat gun, right?

    Second, the iFixit basic set comes with a small, clear suction cup. Would that be sufficient for this project, or does it require the stronger pull of the other cups?

    Finally, must I reapply adhesive to the case when replacing the glass? Does the original remain tacky and re-bond on assembly?

    contact - Réponse

    It's been a while since you asked, but since no one answered and someone else may have the same questions:

    Hair dryers vary a lot, depending on wattage. I would start on low or med, and work my way up to high if necessary. I'd keep the fan on the lowest setting.

    The little suction cup is for removing screens like the iMac, which just uses magnets, and possibly an iPad or iPhone. I would not want to use that for this project, get something about 2" wide with a decent handle.

    The screen should have the double sided glue tape already applied, just remove the backing. I wouldn't get glass that doesn't have the tape on it, big waste of time with little savings in cost.

    Jeff Kamis

    maccentric -

    ****EASIEST WAY TO REMOVE GLASS**** Instead of using this large heat gun, I used an Ancor Marine Grade Mirco Thermal Heat Gun (Ancor 702027) I picked up at West Marine. The tip is the exact width of the black trim and really concentrates the heat to the tape without heating outter rubber trim. No lie....I followed the heat gun all the way around the edge with a tiny pry tool and the glass was off in 5 min!!

    LKFitzgerald1 - Réponse

    what temperature did u have it set at? I have a digital rework station i want to use.

    Bradley -

    All I can say for this is don't be tempted to hold the heat gun too close. I ended up burning my LCD the first time I did it and having to replace that when all I was looking to do was replace the cable. I got the glass off holding it about 4/5 inches from the screen and being patient (it took about 5/10 minutes in the end).

    Nick - Réponse

    The tape is very sticky and the glass is very fragile but at the same time fairly flexible.....I ended up breaking the glass ans it turned out to be a mess picking up the shards....but in the end a new glass is not too costly. the implication is that heating melts the glue but it is really just double stick tape.....there are some "youtube" videos that are worth a look but I would suggest using guitar picks and not a putty knife which creates a point load that breaks the glass....wear safety glasses!!

    brian62 - Réponse

    Be ready to replace the glass (good thing mine was already broken, I ordered one). Wear surgery gloves and protective glasses. Trust your nose, if it smell melted plastic, it’s a good clue to stop the heat.

    Sebastien CHAPUIS - Réponse

    • Une fois que la vitre a été suffisamment chauffée, fixez une ventouse à levier à côté du coin supérieur droit de la vitre.

    • Ne fixez pas la ventouse sur la bande en caoutchouc au bord de la vitre.

    • Si vous utilisez une de nos ventouses, posez-la, la poignée mobile parallèle à la surface de la vitre. Puis, tout en appuyant légèrement la ventouse sur la vitre, relevez la poignée mobile jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit parallèle à l'autre poignée.

    • Soulevez et éloignez doucement et délicatement le coin de la vitre de l'ensemble écran.

    • Si vous arrivez juste à soulever le bord supérieur de l'écran (comme sur la troisième photo), répétez les étapes un et deux jusqu'à ce que le coin de la vitre se soulève.

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    • Soulevez précautionneusement le coin de la vitre suffisamment pour pouvoir insérer une spatule (spudger) entre elle et l'ensemble écran.

    • Avec l'extrémité plate de la spatule, décollez soigneusement la bande adhésive fixant la vitre à l'écran.

    • Soulevez la vitre de quelques centimètres au-dessus du coin supérieur droit, tout au long du bord supérieur et du bord droit de l'écran.

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    • Avec un pistolet à air chaud, faites ramollir la colle sous la bordure noire le long du côté droit de la vitre avant.

    • Fixez une ventouse à levier du côté droit de la vitre avant.

    • Soulevez la vitre pendant que vous la séparez du reste de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.

    • Progressez le long du bord droit de la vitre avant jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit séparée de l'écran.

    • Il peut être utile d'insérer un médiator de guitare ou un autre objet fin en plastique pour empêcher le coin supérieur droit de la vitre avant de se recoller sur l'ensemble écran.

    I ended up breaking my glass panel due to using the spudger. I think if you use something more like a small putty knife you will do better. The spudger puts a lot of pressure in a small spot while the putty knife would put a little pressure over a larger area. Also, if you do break the glass, be sure to get ALL of the broken bits off before putting the new one on. Also, watch out for those broken bits as they tend to penetrate skin quite easily, and stay there for days!

    mastover - Réponse

    • Avec votre pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire le long du bord supérieur de la vitre.

    • Fixez une ventouse à levier sur le bord supérieur de la vitre avant et tirez-la pour séparer la vitre de l'écran.

    • Progressez le long du bord supérieur de la vitre, en enlevant précautionneusement la colle avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule si nécessaire.

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    • Avec le pistolet à air chaud, ramollissez la colle sous la bordure noire du côté du coin supérieur gauche de la vitre.

    • Fixez une ventouse à levier dans le coin supérieur gauche de la vitre avant.

    • Tirez sur la ventouse pendant que vous séparez précautionneusement la vitre de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.

    • Après avoir séparé le coin supérieur gauche de l'écran, il peut être utile d'insérer un médiator de guitare ou un autre objet fin en plastique pour empêcher la vitre de se recoller sur l'ensemble écran.

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    • Avec un pistolet à air chaud ou un sèche-cheveux, faites ramollir la colle sous la bordure noire le long du bord gauche de la vitre avant.

    • Fixez une ventouse à levier du côté gauche de la vitre avant.

    • Soulevez la vitre pendant que vous la séparez du reste de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.

    • Progressez le long du bord gauche de la vitre avant jusqu'à ce qu'il soit séparé de l'écran.

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    • Maintenant que les bords supérieur, gauche et droit de la vitre sont séparés de l'écran, soulevez doucement le bord supérieur de la vitre et faites-le délicatement pivoter pour le retirer de l'écran.

    • Si nécessaire, séparez le bord inférieur de la vitre de l'ensemble écran avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule.

    • Avant le remontage, veillez à nettoyer l'intérieur de la vitre ainsi que l'écran LCD, car toute poussière ou empreinte digitale à l'intérieur se verra et gênera dès que l'ordinateur sera allumé.

    How do you clean the LCD without damaging it? I have some glass dust and other things including a fingerprint resting on the screen, though I have yet to damage the LCD and would like to keep it that way.

    Erin - Réponse

    • Sautez cette étape si vous réutilisez la vitre d'origine.

    • Insérez la pointe d'un outil en plastique entre la vitre de l'écran et la fixation de la caméra et progressez autour de la fixation de la camera pour le séparer de la vitre.

    • N'oubliez pas de monter la fixation de la caméra sur la nouvelle vitre avant avant le remontage.

    I had issues getting the panel back on till I got rid of the little camera bracket. I just made sure the glass aligned properly then removed the bracket. The bracket didn't stick worth beans anyway.

    mastover - Réponse

    • Il est possible que la nappe de la caméra se prenne dans la colle sur la vitre, puis se déconnecte de la carte caméra au moment où vous soulevez la vitre. Si la nappe est toujours connectée à la carte caméra, sautez cette étape.

    • Pour reconnecter la nappe de la caméra, enlevez d'abord le morceau de mousse autocollante sur la prise ZIF de la nappe avec la pointe d'une spatule.

    • Toujours avec la pointe de la spatule, ouvrez le clapet de retenue ZIF de la prise de la nappe de la caméra.

    • Insérez la nappe de la caméra dans sa prise sur la carte caméra et refermez le clapet de retenue ZIF avec la pointe de la spatule pour maintenir la nappe en place.

    • Refixez le morceau de mousse autocollante couvrant la prise de la nappe de la caméra.

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    • Faites glisser le cache charnière vers la droite de l'écran.

    • Le cache charnière se déplacera d'environ 0,6 cm. N'essayez pas de forcer pour aller plus à droite.

    • Au moment de remonter le cache charnière, veillez à y glisser les composants qui dépassent du bord inférieur de l'écran, en les décalant d'environ 0,6 cm vers la droite par rapport à la position finale de l'écran.

    The plastic tabs of the clutch fit into slots that end up holding the clutch in place. The idea is that you need to slide the clutch to the right to free the plastic tabs from the metal slots in the LCD frame.....then you can separate the clutch from the frame.

    brian62 - Réponse

    • En commençant tout à droite, faites jouer le cache charnière tout le long de son axe pendant que vous l'ôtez de la charnière.

    • En progressant de droite à gauche, soulevez et dégagez soigneusement le cache charnière du bord inférieur de l'ensemble écran.

    • Ôtez le cache charnière du joint avant et mettez-le de côté.

    • Au moment de réinstaller le cache charnière, veillez à élargir l'ouverture quand vous faites glisser dessus le petit cache en plastique noir esthétique, qui recouvre l'extrémité ouverte du cache charnière quand celui-ci est en place. Le cache esthétique est maintenu à la charnière droite par des attaches en plastique très fines et fragiles.

    Highly recommended to remove clutch cover BEFORE heating up glass, because cover is made of very thin plastic and it'll be deformed!

    Basically, I'm removing everything from screen - clutch cover, wifi card, antenna, all plastic bits, and only then proceed with heating and glass removal.

    DigiHead - Réponse

    Starting at it's far LEFT end

    Job - Réponse

    just slide the plastic cover to the right and it comes right off.

    William - Réponse

    • Dégagez le câble de données de l'écran de son support de fixation à côté du coin inférieur gauche de l'écran.

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    • Dévissez les six vis suivantes fixant le panneau LCD au joint avant :

      • Quatre vis cruciformes de 3,25 mm à large tête.

      • Deux vis cruciformes de 3,2 mm à petite tête.

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    • N'essayez pas encore de retirer l'écran LCD. Le système de circuits en bas de l'écran est logé dans un interstice le long du bord inférieur du renfoncement dans l'écran complet en aluminium.

    • Maintenez l'écran à la verticale et inclinez-le suffisamment pour saisir le bord supérieur de l'écran LCD et faites-le pivoter en l'éloignant légèrement de l'ensemble écran. Faites bien attention à ne pas détacher le système de circuits du bord inférieur.

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    • Tirez le panneau LCD vers le bord supérieur de l'écran pour faire glisser le système de circuits le long de son bord inférieur hors de l'emplacement dans le support de l'écran en aluminium.

    • Il peut être utile de faire passer d'une main le câble de données de l'écran à travers son canal dans le support en aluminium de l'écran pendant que de l'autre, vous tirez le panneau LCD vers le bord supérieur de l'écran.

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    • Décollez le morceau d'adhésif recouvrant le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran sur le bord le plus proche de l'écran LCD.

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    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, ouvrez le fin clapet de retenue en acier fixant le câble de données de l'écran à sa prise sur l'écran LCD.

    • Tirez le câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise sur l'écran.

    • Ôtez l'écran LCD de l'ensemble écran et mettez-le de côté.

    Has anyone had compatibility issues with the LVDS cable not being compatible with certain displays? I am trying to replace an LG LP133WX3 with an AU B133EW04 and it seems the cable connectors are different and not compatible.

    brdnboy - Réponse

    how do you reattach the glass since it was held by adhesive?

    Mike - Réponse

    I'm doing this tonight and I imagine it's simply reheating the adhesive to get it tacky again and then pressing it into place. At least I hope!

    Brian -


Pour remonter votre ordinateur, suivez les instructions en sens inverse.

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12 commentaires

What about using a low-temp oven instead of a heat gun (or is using a heat gun easy enough)?

What would be too hot? Would 70˚ C be too hot (60˚, 50˚)?

I also see that it says "forget to stick the camera bracket down to the NEW FRONT DISPLAY GLASS before reassembly." Do people that do this repair ever reuse the old glass that they just removed with the heat-gun with success?

Ilya Kavalerov - Réponse

does the adhesive hold on to the reattached glass after the repair? do we need double-sided tape to hold ?

omkar - Réponse

All I can say is THANKS! I was able to replace my daughters display, the bottom aluminum panel and to remove the dents from the top aluminum panel. Without your guide, I doubt I ever could have done this. You saved me hundreds! Your spudger tool was worth its weight in gold....till I used it to break the glass front panel...sigh. Still, I'll use that hundreds of times from now on.

mastover - Réponse

==Step 17==

It is extremely critical that when attaching the suction cup to FIRST LIFT THE LEVER ABOUT HALF WAY before attaching to the glass in order to only apply about half the suction the tool is capable of applying!! Lift the lever half way. Set into position on glass. Lift the rest of the way to apply about half of the suction cup's potential suction. Failure to do this WILL result in circular break around the suction cup!

jnserr - Réponse

This was extremely helpful. I am a junior in high school who was issued a Mac for class. I am one of those anti-Apple people, so I get easily frustrated with them and tend to beat them up a bit. Consequently, I broke it. Being low on funds, I couldn't afford the repair costs, let alone had the nerve to own up to my actions and tell the teacher about it. SO....after staying up an extra couple hours researching the problem, I discovered this and decided to give it a try. Despite already being somewhat tech savvy, I found this resource very helpful, even more so after re-reading it and watching a couple how-to videos. The problem was fixed in no time.

Lets just say, thanks to this site, the school never found out that I broke the laptop. :)

Alexander - Réponse

hello alexander i just replaced my screen with a new one but its black screen dosent show anything any thips?

carlos -

i just installed new screen and i get black screen on my macbook and when connected to tv also blackscreen but when i disconect the lcd it works fine on the tv any tips

carlos - Réponse

I completed this using parts and tools from amazon and some tools from ifixit. I definitely recommend buying the glass as well as the lcd. The glass is only ~20$ off of amazon and will come with adhesive. You would need to use your own adhesive if you were to use the old glass. My only issue was that I pushed in the display cable a little too hard and loosed the input, so I had to use some electric tape to steady everything at the end.

I recommend watching this video for an additional perspective: . A main suggestion would be to test the LCD screen prior to putting everything back together as seen in that video. This repair saved me a ton of money and wasn't particularly hard, though it was time consuming.

Best of luck.

navidashari - Réponse

First, GREAT article. How do I replace a, ‘display data cable connector,’ once it has been removed? I don’t see any articles on this. I can best be reached at on this one.

Thank you in advance!

Rob Schmidt

Robert Schmidt - Réponse

First, GREAT article. Having said that how do I replace the, ‘Display data cable connector,’ once it has been removed? The best way to reach me on this one is, You have allot of GREAT material regarding Mid 2010 13” Macbook Pro laptops, but I don’t see anything regarding JUST the display data cable connector.

Thank you ahead of time.


Rob Schmidt

Robert Schmidt - Réponse


I had a laser targeted infrared thermometer for another project ($25 at local hardware store) and found the screen cover adhesive softened nicely at top and sides at 140-145F. I used a hairdryer on high setting.

I found with the top edge and both side edges lifted free of the adhesive in earlier stages, the bottom edge lifted easily at 100-105F. (I had package taped the screen as it had cracks, being sure the tape laid flat so sunction would form in the early steps.

NOTE THE MAXIMUM SPECiIFIED NONOPERATING TEMPERATURE IS LISTED BY APPLE AT 113F for the 2010 MBP 13”. Separating the bottom and top cases allows the keyboard and all the other goodies in the lower case to rest comfortably away from the heat.

One or two very thin flexible pry tools like iSesame (inexpensive online) worked well once the upper corner was lifted with a suction cup

Stan Wingate - Réponse

What is the exact model of this LCD and what interface does it have?

juan andrés gimeno crespo - Réponse

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