Introduction
Utilisez ce tutoriel pour remplacer la carte mère.
Outils
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Retirez les dix vis suivantes :
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Deux vis Pentalobe P5 9 mm
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Huit vis Pentalobe P5 2.6 mm
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Vous trouverez ici le tournevis spécial dont vous aurez besoin pour enlever les vis Pentalobe.
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Mettez vos doigts entre l'écran et le boîtier inférieur et tirez vers le haut pour détacher le boîtier inférieur.
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Enlevez la partie inférieure et mettez-la de côté.
There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.
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Saisissez la languette en plastic transparent attachée au connecteur de la batterie et tirez-la vers le bord avant de l'appareil pour déconnecter la batterie de la carte mère;
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Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour tirer le connecteur de la nappe de la carte E/S hors de sa prise sur la carte E/S.
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Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour retourner soigneusement le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF du ventilateur.
I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.
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Retirez les trois vis suivantes fixant le ventilateur au boîtier :
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Une vis Torx T5 de 3,6 mm
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Une vis Torx T5 de 2,7 mm
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Une vis Torx T5 de 3,6 mm avec une tête courte
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I found it easier to do step 11 before this one.
During reassembly don’t forget the ribbon cable.
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Soulevez le ventilateur du côté de la carte E/S et tirez-le du boîtier supérieur.
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Le retrait du ventilateur déconnecte également la nappe du ventilateur. Veillez à ne pas la déchirer.
It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.
I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.
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Déconnectez la carte E/S en retirant son câble d'alimentation de sa prise sur la carte mère.
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Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour tirer le connecteur du câble du haut-parleur gauche vers le haut et hors de sa prise sur la carte E/S.
Steps 12 through 16 are not really necessary; you can easily de-route the necessary cables without removing the I/O board. Likewise with reassembly.
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Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour retourner délicatement le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du microphone.
When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.
Tried doing both ways when reassembling but the ribbon cable is so crimped that it won’t feed through the socket anymore. Not sure how to get it through else replace cable or run without a microphone.
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Retirez la seule vis Torx T5 de 3,6 mm fixant la carte E/S au boîtier supérieur.
When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.
I also noticed that the ribbon cable has a “tab” of extra ribbon above it that was hard to see in the pictures.
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Soulevez la carte E/S du côté de la carte mère et retirez-la du boîtier supérieur.
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Le retrait de la carte E/S déconnecte également la nappe du microphone. Veillez à ne pas la déchirer.
I didn't actually need to remove the IO board, it's enough to remove the screw to let it loose. Therefore also step 12 and 13 are useless.
THANK YOU. Was able to push the camera cable under the io board without removing it.
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Retirez les cinq vis suivantes fixant la batterie au boîtier supérieur :
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Trois vis Torx T5 de 6,3 mm
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Deux vis Torx T5 de 2,4 mm
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Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et faites-la pivoter vers le haut de l'ordinateur.
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Utilisez l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour retirer les deux connecteurs de câble d'antenne de leur prise sur la carte AirPort/Bluetooth.
One of my terminals is broken. What solutions do you recommend me
You’re actually pushing the connector from side to side toward the front of the case (or towards the track pad). It’s not a vertical motion at all.
I’d also mention to be careful taking these off and putting them back on. I also accidentally pulled a terminal off it’a cable.
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Débranchez le connecteur du câble de la caméra avec la pointe d'un spudger.
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Tirez le câble de la caméra parallèlement à la surface de la carte E/S vers le bord avant de l'Air pour le sortir de sa prise.
You’ve missed a whole section here on removing the fan. It’s still present in Step 19 pics, but gone by Step 23. It’s not that it’s difficult to work out how to do it. But, when reassembling and following the steps in reverse, it’s handy to know when to use which screws!
Ah! –my bad. The steps for removing Fan etc. are there –up round Step 13. It’s just your photos that are slightly out of sync, as it’s back in place again by Step 19. So, while working in reverse, it looks like it’s not been covered.
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Utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour faire basculer le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier.
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Utilisez votre spudger pour retirer délicatement la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier hors de sa prise.
Do you know where i can buy the retaining clip ?
Not sure you can. I’d just use some kapton tape to hold it in place and call it good.
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Retirez les six vis Torx T5 de 6,3 mm fixant la carte mère au boîtier supérieur.
When re-assembling the motherboard, attach all 6 screws but do not completely tighten yet.
First make sure the rubber gasket is sitting properly, that the 7th screw hole (from Step 18) is properly aligned, and the Airport wire is sitting properly and also not caught under the heat sink.
Once everything is well aligned, start tightening the screws while watching out for the alignment. I found it useful to keep an eye on screw-hole from Step 18 as a reference.
Going in this order, there is a 7th screw securing the logic board to the frame; the heatsink is secured to the logic board with 4 screws, and secured to the frame with 1 more screw. Either take the heatsink off first, or remove that last screw underneath two small black wires, next to the left (as viewed when using the computer; if the computer is flipped over with the cover off and the monitor hinge end of the computer farthest from you, it is in the far right corner) set of three big torx screws that hold the hinge in place. The exact location of this screw is pictured in step 35's second picture; the screw goes through the loop visible below the rubber fan insulator. Scoot those 2 li'l wires out of the way and remove that screw, then the logic board comes right out. If this isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to describe it better, or add a photo. If I'm posting this to the wrong instruction page, let me know; I was pretty sure I correctly identified my rig, but if not, sorry for the N00bage.
I got an extra screw hiding under the rubber gasket holding the end of the heatsink to the chassis. Ended up bending the heatsink a little cause I wasn't looking for it.
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Retirez les deux vis Torx intérieures de 4,9 mm fixant le dispositif de retenue du câble de l'antenne et la charnière gauche au boîtier.
This is the same screws as step 17.
Good catch! We did some sleuthing and it looks like a couple guides did indeed have an extra section of steps! All better now =)
T8 screwdriver/head not listed as a tool. Please add to the tool list. Stuck at Step 27 and need to go buy one.
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Éloignez légèrement le dispositif de retenue du câble de l'antenne et retirez la vis Torx T5 de 3 mm fixant l'extrémité du dissipateur thermique au boîtier supérieur.
It’s not clear what you mean by “This step is not needed.” If you want to remove the logic board from the upper case in order to put it onto your replacement upper case, you will have to remove this screw.
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Faites glisser l'extrémité plate d'un spudger sous le haut-parleur droit à partir de l'extrémité la plus proche de la charnière vers le bord avant de l'Air pour décoller l'adhésif.
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Retirez le haut-parleur droit du boîtier supérieur.
You don’t really *have* to remove the speaker, especially if your replacement upper case assembly already includes the speakers.
I found the same. If you already have speakers in your new upper case, you can leave them. When you put the logic board back in, it will be a tight fit. I had to start with the corner near the right hinge (the Thunderbolt port corner) and work it in to place.
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Retirez la seule vis Torx T5 de 2,85 mm fixant le SSD sur la carte mère.
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Retirez le dissipateur thermique de la carte mère.
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Assurez-vous que les câbles d'antenne sont insérés dans leur encoche respective sur la carte mère, comme indiqué dans la dernière image.
This step is REALLY helpful. I skimmed over it when disassembling and then struggled a bit trying to get the rubber gasket aligned just right.
The middle photo shows what I mean, it's exactly what I needed.
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Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Annulation : je n'ai pas terminé ce guide.
43 autre(s) ont terminé cette réparation.
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13 commentaires
great job! thanks a lot
thank you for making it so easy. Great job, you deserve 5 stars *****
Is it possible to swap Macbook air's (2013) logic board for newer model's logic board? (let's say for 2015 macbook air's logic board).
With this guide, I successfully replaced my dead board with a second hand one that I bought from ebay.
It took around 2:30 hours with a lot of external distraction. So basically it takes 2 hours to replace the board.
Thank for this beautiful guide.
Another note as a follow up: After the replacement all seemed fine, though i noticed start up was really slow and it generally didn’t feel as responsive as before the swap. Getting worried about the replacement board (the ZIF connection of the trackpad was missing on the ‘new’ board) i ended up resetting the NVRAM. This miraculously solved the problem for me.
And as the new board has a different serial number, this should be updated for iCloud…i guess, as this is the serial that appears in ‘About This Mac’.
Using this guide I successfully replaced the logic board in a Mid-2013 13” MBA. It had been running Yosemite 10.10.5 until my grandson dropped it in his bathtub (don’t ask). After the fix I updated the MacOS to High Sierra 10.13.6. I ran the Apple hardware diagnostic (pressed “D” at startup) which reported “No issues found.”
I’m still a bit nervous about the tiny ribbon cables, which don’t really seem all that well secured. But I guess everything is working. Also, the Airport/Bluetooth module on the replacement logic board would not allow one of the two antenna connectors to engage fully, so I swapped it with the original, which did work.
I really hate trackpads, but I guess people get used to them. I much prefer my Kensington trackball (“Expert Mouse”).
These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?
Rulle Boer - Réponse
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentalobe_...
Arlen Abraham -
My Wiha P5 screwdriver was too big for these screws, but my P4 worked fine.
BrianM -
The pentalobe screw size is 1.2 mm for Macbook Air.
Jose Gustavo Abreu Murta -
The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.
I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.
budpegasus - Réponse
Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!
allison - Réponse
Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.
bwgvanderveer - Réponse
I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards
ola m - Réponse
Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.
andrew - Réponse
It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.
Larry Smith - Réponse
tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.
Thank you
ilyabuhov - Réponse
Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?
anne uhlir - Réponse
im looking for a Logic Board for a
Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A
Any help is appreciated.
Jamie Comstock - Réponse
P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)
William Skinner - Réponse
Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!
Dennis Eaton - Réponse
My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!
Pennny Beach - Réponse