Le remplacement du boîtier supérieur nécessite d'enlever presque tous les composants de votre MacBook Pro. Vous devrez également transférer votre ancien pavé tactile (trackpad) sur votre nouveau boîtier.

Vidéo d'introduction

  1. Retirez les dix vis suivantes :
    • Retirez les dix vis suivantes :

      • Trois vis Phillips #00 14,4 mm

      • Trois vis Phillips #00 3,5 mm

      • Quatre vis à épaulement Phillips #00 3,5 mm

    Does void the warranty?

    jfondeur - Réponse

    No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically:

    oakdragon12 - Réponse

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - Réponse

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?

    Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Réponse

    Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.

    Seji the veggie -

    What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!

    Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.

    pmhparis -

    The issue is not one of weight but an issue with the systems cooling and an opening which objects could enter. For a few grams of weight I don’t think its worth it! A better solution would be to swap out the heaver HD for a much lighter SSD, and getting all of the performance benefits of the faster drive as well!

    While you might not think it the optical drive also acts as a stiffener so there is less twist in the case. This is because of the size of the hole for the DVD/CD’s so taking it out weakens the case design.

    Dan -

    I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.

    John Adam Wickliffe - Réponse

    Hey guys,

    this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!

    I posted some pictures on your facebook page..

    renatumb - Réponse

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - Réponse

    Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.

    kschmesk - Réponse

    I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?

    Alex - Réponse

    The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch

    . Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard

    I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one

    brian whittle - Réponse

    Hello MacWorld,

    Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!

    wer 10/5/15

    tayseer999 - Réponse

    I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.

    GotMac - Réponse

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - Réponse

    on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one

    Maximilian Klotz - Réponse

    I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.

    gilded yak - Réponse

    Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”

    Jack - Réponse

    I have the same question. What is the difference between shouldered and not? So hard to see any difference…

    Michael Wilkens -

    I’ll second that. I could never find them being different.

    otetz -

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - Réponse

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.

    Stephen Smith - Réponse

    A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help

    Wilder Torres - Réponse

    Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.

    airshack - Réponse

    when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.

    this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.

    Matt - Réponse

    It seems to me the yellow and orange screws are the same

    Luca Giancarli - Réponse

    If you look closely, the four front screws (with the yellow circles) have a short unthreaded section under the head. The orange keyed screws are threaded all the way up.

    Raymond Ives -

    The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).

    Don Cely - Réponse

    Two screw types:


    Shouldered Unshouldered






    El Crashitan - Réponse

    If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.

    Patrick Langvardt - Réponse

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - Réponse

    I did this last weekend, and definitely, a Phillips #000 screwdriver is required (not a Phillips #00!)

    Javier Campos Delgado - Réponse

  2. Faites levier avec vos doigts au niveau de la fente pour sortir le boîtier inférieur de la coque du MacBook.
    • Faites levier avec vos doigts au niveau de la fente pour sortir le boîtier inférieur de la coque du MacBook.

    • Retirez le boîtier inférieur.

    If the black vent window that is attached to the back cover becomes loose what kind of glue should be used to attach it again, thermal paste or super glue?

    Thanks for your help.

    Mikell - Réponse

    bonjour cette truc ça marche au mac Brook pro Retina ou pas?

    Shi Feng - Réponse

    Bonjour, alors cela va dépendre du modèle de MacBook Pro Retina concerné. Par exemple, si vous avez un 13 pouces, allez consulter cette page MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Repair et sélectionnez-y votre modèle. Les Retina 15 pouces se trouvent ici MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Repair. Sinon cet outil (pour l’instant seulement disponible en anglais) vous aide à identifier quel modèle vous avez et vous redirige vers la page de votre appareil, où vous trouverez le tutoriel correspondant à votre Retina. Bonne réparation !

    Claire Rapp -

    Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?

    Volkan Ogul - Réponse

    • À l'aide de l'extrémité d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur de la batterie pour le débrancher de la prise sur la carte mère.

    • Il convient d'appliquer l'effet de levier sur les deux côtés courts du connecteur. Faites attention aux coins des connecteurs, car ils se cassent facilement.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - Réponse

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Sooo the track pad is under the kind of have to remove it to get to the track pad.

    stiknrudder -

    This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.

    Steven Layton - Réponse

    My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!

    Diego Hernandes -

    Did you properly ground yourself to the case before putting the spudger to the connector/logic board? Did you use a spudger or something else that is non conductive...or did you use a flat blade metal screw driver instead and compound your error by not grounding yourself before touching the logic board? All kinds of variables here but the bottom line is iFixit provided you a guide to fix your computer. Lots of others have followed this guide without trouble. Your battery issues are not their fault. They did say this guide was moderate difficulty...maybe it's just a little beyond your skill level. We should all know our limits!

    stiknrudder -

    Rather than be careful of the corners of the connector i would say don't use the spudger anywhere near the corners. While the corner looks like the obvious place to begin to pry it up from, it will break. Levering from the sides as the instructions suggest works well.

    ausmkv - Réponse

    wonder why apple does not recommend it?!

    Peter - Réponse

    I would recommend it, one careless short and the whole board is dead......

    John - Réponse

    simply remove the battery rather than disconnecting the cable

    toiu - Réponse

    What do you mean by "remove the battery"?

    Anrothan -

    Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...

    fasthans - Réponse

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - Réponse

    Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.

    MacProUser - Réponse

    Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.

    Simon Mundy - Réponse

    I took off th Airport /Bluetooth connectors but the number J3 connector is broken and so where can i buy J3 connecter for the Airport/bluetooth board

    Zeerachen - Réponse

    Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector

    Ed Oliver - Réponse

    DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!

    Bradley Marks - Réponse

    Followed the tuto Step by step. Disconnected the battery (quite easily).

    No problem when I lit the Mac on again. Battery's here, date's right.

    nichoferr - Réponse

    Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.

    Mfernandez - Réponse

    This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.

    Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.

    BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.

    wassberg -

    Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.

    Stephen Smith - Réponse

    I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.

    Raymond Rinaldi - Réponse

    Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!

    Marijke de Vries - Réponse

    The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static.

    B T - Réponse

    I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.

    airshack - Réponse


    Do I really need to use a spudger tool? Can’t I just use like two plectrums for guitar? xD

    Myzcio - Réponse

    • Repliez légèrement le câble de la batterie vers l'arrière pour éviter qu'il ne se reconnecte accidentellement à la prise sur la carte mère pendant que vous travaillez.

    What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore

    Diego Hernandes - Réponse

    The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).

    The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.

    One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.

    Great guides. Thanks!

    timgunkel - Réponse

    Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.

    Sal Ergrapes - Réponse

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - Réponse

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Followed the advice and right as I was installing the replacement fan , the socket broke right off the motherboard.

    Ian Thal - Réponse

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - Réponse

    does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.

    Darren Rose - Réponse

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites délicatement levier sur le connecteur du ventilateur pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Il est utile de faire pivoter la spatule en dessous des câbles du ventilateur pour débrancher le connecteur.

    • La prise et le connecteur du ventilateur sont montrés sur la deuxième et troisième photo. Veillez à ne pas détacher la prise en plastique du ventilateur lors du retrait du connecteur du ventilateur de sa prise. La configuration de la carte mère de votre appareil peut différer de celle de la deuxième photo mais la prise du ventilateur est la même.

    Can the socket be soldered back if broken? Or am I screwed? Can I use the laptop without the fan?

    ricardosaez395 - Réponse

    I have the same question, looks like instead of "unplugging" these micro connections, I accidentally pried it off the Board instead. Harumph. Can these be fixed?

    Steve White - Réponse

    I successfully soldered the fan connector back on for a friend. I used a small soldering iron (maybe 6-10 watts) and ground the tip down to a very fine point. Also used a magnifying light and very fine rosin core solder. I took my time and lined everything up and was careful not to heat any other junction unnecessarily.

    Scott Stanley - Réponse

    Yup. Be careful on this one. I was trying to gently pry up and popped it off the socket. Computer working fine after replacing magsafe board, but no fan for cooling…

    Thomas Carr - Réponse

    This one is really delicate, as pointed out.  Be careful if using the pointed end of a spudger NOT to dig down and under ….there’s a layer of plastic-y insulation that can be torn.  I accidentally gored it with the pointy end of a spudger and it was slightly ripped.  Fortunately, I was able to press it down and there was no problem when the cable was reinserted.

    Carolyn Ryan - Réponse

    For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:

    airshack - Réponse

    I used a guitar pick and gently wiggled underneath to lift it up and out of the socket. no damage! woo hoo! on to step 7!

    jcundy2 - Réponse

    • Dévissez les trois vis suivantes, fixant le ventilateur à la carte mère :

      • Une vis Torx T6 de 7,2 mm

      • Deux vis Torx T6 de 5,3 mm

    These are T5 screws

    dbell316 - Réponse

    I think so too, (maybe on a certain batch?) tried a T6 and its too big

    billytalentlovexo -

    No they are T6

    tweakland - Réponse

    Nope just tried a T6 and its too big, don't have a T5 but it's gotta be one

    billytalentlovexo -

    It would be helpful to have recommendations about how to clean the dust from inside. What places to direct the compressed air,

    garyrclark - Réponse

    Forget the dust inside: replace the fan for about $15! Here’s what I ordered and it worked perfectly:

    airshack - Réponse

    Wah. My screws got rounded out and the old fan is stuck in now. Anybody have a solution to get them out without frying the logic board? It definitely seems as if locktite has been used here. Has anybody else found evidence to support that?

    Jimbo - Réponse

    • Ôtez le ventilateur de son emplacement dans la carte mère en évitant que son câble ne reste accroché.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, retirez la nappe haut-parleur droit/subwoofer placée sous le dispositif de retenue moulé dans le boîtier supérieur.

    • Tirez la nappe haut-parleur droite/subwoofer vers le haut pour débrancher le connecteur de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Déconnectez la nappe de la caméra de la carte mère.

    • Tirez sur la nappe parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère. Si vous la tirez vers le haut, vous risquez d'endommager la carte mère ou la nappe elle-même.

    The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

    townbull - Réponse

    Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

    Larry Horton - Réponse

    IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.

    James - Réponse

    • Déconnectez les quatre nappes suivantes :

      • Nappe AirPort/Bluetooth

      • Nappe du lecteur optique

      • Nappe du disque dur

      • Nappe du pavé tactile

    • Faites levier sur les connecteurs à l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule pour les déconnecter de leur prise sur la carte mère .

    On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

    Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

    Larry Horton - Réponse

    Same with the Mid 2010 model - moving the cable parallel to the board, towards the optical device works fine.

    Hans - Réponse

    • Avec votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du clavier.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue rabattu et non pas sur la prise elle-même.

    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, retirez la nappe du clavier de sa prise.

    Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

    Derek Cowan - Réponse

    No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.

    maccentric -

    I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

    David - Réponse

    Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!

    Gryyphyn -

    Amazing this saved me!

    Felipe Cordero -

    You've saved me countless hours of crying trying to simply push it in

    Tunipguy -

    David, thank you so much for the tape suggestion! A little Scotch tape just ended 15 minutes of eyes-widening frustration. :)

    simolinic - Réponse

    if the zif socket got fried which parts must be replaced?

    Jacob - Réponse

    i dont know what yall be talkin bout i just ripped the top part off and then i put some back tape voerit

    works great!

    mark Andrews - Réponse

    After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.

    Ruedi Schubarth - Réponse

    “Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.” <=== perhaps the best suggestion I’ve read in years!

    airshack - Réponse

    The tape trick works. Since we’re in the middle of a home renovation project I used a piece of painters tape that was lying around. It doesn’t really stick to the cable but it just gives you that extra grip.

    Rob Kruit - Réponse

    I had a hard time to reattach the keyboard cables, the tape trick just saved my life.

    nikowesome - Réponse

    Just a random thing to add. My Mac would not boot without the keyboard ribbon being plugged in correctly.

    Zakary Womack - Réponse

    Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

    domhnallk - Réponse

    It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.

    Nick Watts - Réponse

    • Si présent, décollez le petit morceau de bande adhésive noire recouvrant la prise de la nappe du rétro-élairage du clavier.

    The bottom of the small strip has excellent adhesive which will re-stick upon reassembly without any problems. I handled the sticky side and even stuck it to a plastic tray without any issues. Which is to say the sticky-ness does not seem to wear off.

    airshack - Réponse

    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule ou votre ongle, ouvrez le clapet de retenue de la prise ZIF de la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier.

    • Assurez-vous de faire levier sur le clapet de retenue rabattu et non pas sur la prise elle-même.

    • Retirez la nappe du rétro-éclairage du clavier de sa prise.

    The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.

    airshack - Réponse

    • Avec l'extrémité plate d'une spatule, faites levier sur le connecteur du voyant de la batterie/du capteur veille pour le débrancher de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Hello Guys , I accidently Broke the Cable , is there a replacement for it?

    dewa - Réponse

    the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.

    Matt - Réponse

    • Saisissez la languette en plastique fixée au dispositif de verrouillage du câble de données de l'écran et pivotez-la vers le côté DC-In (prise d'alimentation) de l'ordinateur.

    • Retirez le câble de données de l'écran tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Ne soulevez pas le câble de données de l'écran, car sa prise est très fragile. Tirez sur le câble parallèlement à la surface de la carte mère.

    Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

    Leo Jose - Réponse

    On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:

    "Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."

    Larry Horton - Réponse

    Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.

    Hans -

    Probably a long shot but can this cable be replaced? I think i broke mine

    Ahmad z - Réponse

    Well i found the part at amazon. how to repair it is another thing. I have to ask for help from one on this one. because its booting to a whiet screen.

    mark Andrews - Réponse

    My display is not working after reassemble the mac.

    Any reason?

    Nitin Sonwal - Réponse

    My display is also not working after reassembly. External monitor works, but the internal display doesn't.

    Chris - Réponse

    I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.

    Justin Patterson - Réponse

    I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

    airshack - Réponse

    when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.

    Matt - Réponse

    • Retirez les neuf vis suivantes :

      • Cinq vis Torx T6 de 3,6 mm

      • Deux vis Torx T6 de 4,3 mm

      • Deux vis Torx T6 de 7,2 mm

    2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

    starf1970 - Réponse

    I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.

    GotMac -

    2 of the 7 (the two red ones on the right side in the image) seem really hard to remove. Is there something I'm missing, or do I just need to try harder?

    rubenwiersma - Réponse

    lol @ eye widening frustration. i disabled the keyboard and track pad some how after trying discon my mic. i think its cuz i DID REMOVE BATTERY AND STICKER. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

    msvicious510 - Réponse

    For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

    Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

    gregory mogle - Réponse

    There is only 2 4.3mm T6 on the left part of the logic board and 2 7.2mm T6 on the magsafe board. The 5 T6 left are 3.6mm

    sebdominguez - Réponse

    for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

    Levi Hoover - Réponse

    • Retirez les deux vis suivantes :

      • Une vis cruciforme de 8,6 mm

      • Une vis cruciforme de 5,5 mm

    • Retirez le dispositif de retenue du câble de donnés de l'écran du boîtier supérieur.

    The last screw is the onde that's getting me. Been trying to take it out for half an hour...

    leotowers - Réponse

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    • Avec la pointe d'une spatule, décollez délicatement le microphone de la bande adhésive le fixant au boîtier supérieur.

    The mic adhesive was the only adhesive which seemed diminished by disassembly. I don’t know what apple uses for internal adhesive but I finished the project wishing I had some to secure this mic assembly a little better.

    airshack - Réponse

    Careful with this one. The wires are very thin fragile and it’s glued down very well making it extremely hard to remove. Just go slow and be patient otherwise you’ll damage the wires.

    Rob Kruit - Réponse

    • En faisant attention aux nombreux connecteurs près ses bords, soulevez la carte mère du côté le plus proche du lecteur optique.

    • Sans la tordre, manipulez la carte mère pour l'enlever du boîtier supérieur, en veillant à ce que la connexion flexible avec la carte de raccordement (MagSafe /DC-In) ne reste pas accrochée dans le boîtier supérieur.

    • Ôtez la carte mère.

    I am stuck here. When I lift the logic board, it doesn't come out. I don't want to force it out by fear of breaking it. Please help

    Jean F - Réponse

    I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

    Shaun - Réponse

    Same experience here. I used a longish spudger slipped under the logic board to carefully separate the black backlight shield from the underside of the logic board. I suspect the processor and/or the GPU sticks the two together. Be careful and patient separating the backlight is delicate..go slow and use minimal force...

    fasthans - Réponse

    It is heat not glue that caused the sticking...

    fasthans - Réponse

    I got the microphone cable out fine, but what I'm really struggling with is the camera cable - it doesn't seem to wanna come out and I don't want to force it because I know it's fragile. Anyone find a trick for this?

    ingwis - Réponse

    I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?

    tony perry - Réponse

    I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.

    Carlos De Bernard -

    I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.

    ej257lgt -

    There is one flexible metal plate near each connector probably a grounding plate which can get bend while pulling out the logic board. I had one of them bend but fortunately it didn't break off.

    Leo Jose - Réponse

    Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?

    justfinditjoshyip - Réponse

    Hi - did you figure out what the problem was? Everything working great - but not charging =/

    Denise Vondy -

    If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.

    If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!

    Larry Horton -

    I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.

    Enrique Cerrillo Cuenca -

    I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

    EUNAE JO - Réponse

    The magnetic MagSafe connector pins have a grey plastic frame which can be seen as you look at it from the outside, looking inwards at the port. This plastic frame eventually starts to crack and break-up over the years. It’s not a necessary part so if your MagSafe connector has broken grey plastic on the external end of the connector, remove the pieces as they’re there only for cosmetic reasons.

    airshack - Réponse

    The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Réponse

    Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Réponse

    The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard

    Mauricio Larrea - Réponse

    • Retirez les deux vis suivantes :

      • Une vis Tri-wing de 5,6 mm

      • Une vis Tri-wing de 13 mm

    I may been lucky but my battery screws were not too tight and I was able to remove them using a flat screwdriver

    jeremyyoung - Réponse

    • Saisissez l'étiquette d'avertissement sur la batterie et décollez-la soigneusement du boîtier supérieur entre la batterie et le lecteur optique.

    • Ne retirez pas l'étiquette de la batterie.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Utilisez la languette d'extraction en plastique pour vous aider à retirer la batterie du boîtier.

    once the battery is out, you may also need to remove the sleep sensor/battery indicator and move it to your new case if it didn’t come with them. mine didn’t, so i had to do so…it’s secured by three screws (i believe phillips) and some adhesive. the battery indicator button was loose on mine and just fell out when i removed the board, so be careful not to lose it.

    Matt - Réponse

    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes fixant le support du disque dur au boîtier supérieur.

    • Ces vis resteront prises dans le support du disque dur.

    • Retirez le support du disque dur.

    • Le support du disque dur peut être fixé fermement contre le boitier.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Soulevez le disque dur hors du boîtier à l'aide de la languette de traction qui y est attachée.

    • Retirez la nappe du disque dur de l'ensemble disque dur.

    • Retirez le disque dur.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Retirez les quatre vis suivantes :

      • Deux vis cruciformes de 3 mm

      • Deux vis cruciformes de 9,7 mm

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Décollez soigneusement la mince nappe capteur infrarouge/voyant veille de l'adhésif la fixant au boîtier supérieur.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Tirez le support avant du disque dur contenant le capteur infrarouge et le voyant de veille pout l'éloigner du bord avant du boîtier supérieur.

    • Retirez la nappe du disque dur.

    If replacing top case, don’t have to remove this part: a new one comes with the top case.

    Carroll Cadden - Réponse

    • Repliez soigneusement la nappe AirPort / Bluetooth vers le haut lorsque vous décollez le câble de la caméra de l'adhésif le fixant au subwoofer et au support AirPort/Bluetooth.

    • Dégagez le câble de la caméra de son dispositif de retenue moulé dans le support AirPort/Bluetooth.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Débranchez les quatre connecteurs d'antenne encadrés en rouge dans la première image.

    • Pour ce faire, utilisez la pointe d'un spudger pour retirer leur connecteur des prises sur la carte AirPort/ Bluetooth.

    • Dégagez chaque câble de sa rainure dans le support AirPort/Bluetooth.

    When I went to remove these cables, 2 of the three cables came off the display screen, and seem to have not been attached for a while as they were both very frayed. I have reassembled the computer, and it appears to be working fine, could anyone clarify what these cables should be doing? Many thanks!

    Oscar Knowles - Réponse

    I did not even disconnect these cables, because they are easily damaged when reattaching. I just left them in their sockets and folded the whole assembly back and out of my way, when I needed to take out and replace the keyboard.

    Jurgen - Réponse

    they are ”antenna connectors” going to the “AirPort/Bluetooth” assembly so I am guessing they are needed for the bluetooth. I removed them with a pair of small flat screwdrivers to gently walk them out of the sockets - which are quite deep.

    jeremyyoung - Réponse

    • Retirez les cinq vis suivantes :

      • Deux vis cruciformes de 10,3 mm

      • Deux vis cruciformes de 3,1 mm

      • Une vis cruciforme de 5 mm

    The second picture shows exactly how things are assembled, so looking at the picture tells you if you done any mistake or not. The first picture is very good for an overview the second to show the details.

    MacWiniac - Réponse

    While reassembling make sure the small metal ring attached to the longest antenna cable goes under the left 'red' screw.

    haabee - Réponse

    • Tirez l'ensemble AirPort/Bluetooth et le subwoofer vers le haut près du milieu du côté du lecteur optique jusqu'à ce qu'ils se séparent.

    • Retirez l'ensemble carte AirPort/Bluetooth.

    When reassembling be sure the camera cable is tucked into the case at this point. Otherwise it will end up on top of the cable bundle and be too close to the bottom case lip.

    Ron - Réponse

    • Retirez les trois vis cruciformes de 2,7 mm fixant le lecteur optique au boîtier supérieur.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Soulevez le lecteur optique à partir du bord le plus proche de l'écran et retirez-le du boîtier supérieur.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Décollez la nappe de haut-parleur droit du boîtier supérieur.

    Need to put the vertical piece just above the demonstrator's hand into the new case, or else the CD/DVD drive, logic board, and fan are missing screw holds.

    Carroll Cadden - Réponse

    This is where I stopped following the guide because I was only replacing the keyboard. (There are sooo many screws holding the keyboard down. It took a long time.)

    Reed Deemer - Réponse

    • Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique ou un autre objet mince et fin pour retirer soigneusement le haut-parleur droit de l'adhésif le fixant au boîtier supérieur.

    • Commencez à faire levier au bord du haut-parleur droit le plus proche de l'écran. Commencer de l'autre côté peut endommager l'une des antennes.

    • Progressez le long du bord du haut-parleur droit jusqu'à ce qu'il soit séparé du boîtier supérieur.

    tip: not only start at the end closest to the display, but start as close to the optical drive slot as you can get. i had to get way back there in order to get underneath the speaker to pry it loose.

    Matt - Réponse

    You can skip this if you’re just doing a keyboard replacement.

    John Delisle - Réponse

    • Retirez le haut-parleur droit de sous l'ouverture du lecteur optique.

    What is that plate with the antenna attached? the one that sits under the speaker? My new upper case doesn't have that on there

    stdonato - Réponse

    ditto, my new case is missing that as well.

    spammersburninhades - Réponse

    neither this guide or the video mention it. as though it presumably is in the new case.

    spammersburninhades - Réponse

    Fourth- antenna wasn’t on the replacement case. I peeled the antenna off the old case (starting opposite the cable) and removed the disc screen, put both in the new case. The new case doesn’t have a hole for the screw securing the top of the antenna but the adhesive should hold it fine. I’m not sure if that screw acts as a grounding point, because there’s a bracket further up that antenna that also provides a ground from the shielding.

    Ruedi Schubarth - Réponse

    i also had to remove the plate with the antenna underneath to transfer it to the new case. there is an additional screw you need to remove in order to do this (you can see it just to the left of the index finger on the hand in the picture), and it was also attached by adhesive. i removed the screw and then used the spudger to get under the plate and loosen it from the adhesive.

    unlike the previous commenter, there was a screw hole on my new case to re-attach the antenna plate (in addition to the adhesive).

    Matt - Réponse

    Does anyone actually know what it is for though? Is it necessary?

    Maria ayers - Réponse

    It’s either for the Bluetooth or AirPort or possibly WiFi. I don’t know which one. Given the possible applications it’s probably best to move it to the replacement case. Just be careful not to bend it when removing since I don’t know how delicate the internal construction is. Also, when installing it in the new case, make sure it’s stuck down well, maybe even add some new double side tape. Where it’s positioned, if it pops up it could block access to the optical drive.

    Raymond Ives -

    • Retirez deux des trois vis Torx T8 de 6 mm fixant le côté droit de l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

    • Nous vous proposons à dessein de laisser une vis attachant l'écran au boîtier supérieur pour faciliter les étapes futures.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Retirez le petit morceau de bande de mousse adhésive recouvrant les vis de la charnière gauche de l'écran.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Retirez deux des trois vis Torx T8 de 6 mm fixant le côté gauche de l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

    • Nous vous proposons à dessein de laisser une vis attachant l'écran au boîtier supérieur pour faciliter les étapes futures.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Ouvrez votre MacBook Pro à angle droit entre l'écran et le boîtier supérieur.

    • Placez votre MacBook Pro ouvert sur une table comme sur la photo.

    • Tout en tenant l'écran et le boîtier avec votre main gauche, retirez la dernière vis T8 Torx de la fixation en bas de l'écran.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Veillez à maintenir l'écran et le boîtier supérieur avec votre main gauche. Si vous les lâchez, vous risquez de faire tomber l'écran ou le boîtier supérieur et donc de les abîmer.

    • Retirez la dernière vis Torx T8 fixant l'écran au boîtier supérieur.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Saisissez le boîtier avec votre main droite et faites-le pivoter légèrement vers le haut de l'écran, de sorte que le support supérieur de l'écran s'écarte du bord du boîtier supérieur.

    • Faites légèrement pivoter l'écran pour l'écarter du boîtier.

    • Soulevez l'écran et éloignez-le du boîtier, en tenant compte des supports ou des nappes susceptibles de rester accrochés.

    • Il ne reste que le boîtier.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Retirez les quatre vis cruciformes de 1,2 mm entourées en rouge.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Délogez soigneusement le bord du trackpad le plus proche du clavier de son orifice dans le boîtier supérieur en l'écartant des supports attachés au boîtier.

    • Faites passer la nappe du trackpad à travers sa fente découpée dans le boîtier supérieur.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Éloignez le trackpad du bord extérieur du boîtier supérieur.

    • Retirez le trackpad et mettez-le de côté.

    There's a missing step here. In addition to the trackpad, there's an aluminum structural piece that sits under the center of the keyboard, that has to be migrated from old to new case. It's clearly shown to the left of the repair-person's right hand in step 44.

    anonymous 596 - Réponse

    • Dans les étapes suivantes, vous allez préparer votre nouveau boîtier supérieur.

    • Utilisez un tournevis Torx T6 pour visser lâchement la vis de blocage de 1,1 mm incluse avec votre nouveau boîtier dans son trou moulé près du milieu de l'orifice du trackpad sur votre nouveau boitier.

    • Il suffit de serrer d'environ un tour pour le moment.

    I bought a used replacement case and had to move a few parts from the old case to the replacement. This included the battery indicator cable, the clips for the trackpad and the bracket in the center of the top case. So worth it at this point to compare your old and replacement case to be sure everything you need is there.

    Ron - Réponse

    my new case came with the set screw already installed, and i couldn’t loosen it. i didn’t want to strip it and cause a bigger problem, so i left it alone. the trackpad seems to work fine so far regardless, although i may take the bottom case off and play with it a little if i get a chance.

    i also (just like Ron) had to move the trackpad clips, battery indicator and center bracket to the new case. they were not included.

    Matt - Réponse

    • Insérez soigneusement la nappe de votre ancien trackpad à travers la fente découpée dans votre nouveau boîtier.

    • Utilisez une main pour maintenir la nappe du trackpad en place lorsque vous insérez les deux pattes de retenue du bord extérieur du trackpad sous le rebord du boîtier supérieur.

    • Tirez sur la nappe du trackpad lorsque vous placez le trackpad dans son emplacement dans votre nouveau boîtier.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Insérez une vis cruciforme de 1,2 mm dans chacun des trous extérieurs forés dans le trackpad (deux vis au total).

    • Vous installerez le reste plus tard.

    • Serrez les vis, puis desserrez-les d'environ un quart de tour pour faciliter l'alignement de votre trackpad au cours des prochaines étapes.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • En essayant continuellement de cliquer sur votre trackpad, serrez doucement la vis de blocage Torx T6 jusqu'à ce que les clics "semblent" fonctionner comme quand le MacBook était neuf.

    • Pour estimer le serrage de la vis, le bruit qu'elle fait lorsque le trackpad clique suffit. Si la vis de blocage est trop lâche, le trackpad aura trop de jeu avant le clic. Si elle est trop serrée, le trackpad cliquera trop facilement et ne produira pas le bruit sonore caractéristique de la souris.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Ensuite, retournez votre boîtier pour que le côté clavier soit orienté vers le haut.

    • Alignez le trackpad de façon qu'il soit centré dans son trou découpé dans le boîtier.

    Ajouter un commentaire

    • Serrez les deux vis extérieures le long du bord intérieur du trackpad et vérifiez l'alignement de celui-ci sur le côté extérieur du boîtier supérieur.

    • Si l'alignement semble bon, vissez le reste des vis cruciformes le long du bord intérieur du trackpad.

    • Avant de réassembler votre machine, vérifiez que la vis de blocage permet toujours à la souris de cliquer correctement.

    You can actually replace the keyboard alone fairly easily! I don't know why everyone says you have to replace the whole top case, because if you've got the guts to go this far, you might as well just peel back the illuminator cover and get to work pulling all those tiny screws in the keyboard... Just be careful when peeling up the black adhesive keyboard cover, because you will need to replace it. I used the edge of the ifixit Sesame tool (very thin flat metal opening tool) to carefully slip under any bits of adhesive, and had the keyboard exposed in no time. Also be careful because the clear plastic sheet is actually the keyboard illuminator. Once under all that, it's a mere 50 or so tiny screws, 2 screws in the power button backing, and you've got the keyboard out. Use a magnetized #000 phillips, it will make life much easier than anything else.

    Logan Bean - Réponse

    Absolutely right. I just replaced a keyboard the same way without much problem but i just want to add that those tiny screws need extra care as the heads can get damaged very easily. If damaged, they become very difficult to remove.

    Masood -

    I did just that on my mid-2010 MacBook Pro about a month ago and sadly will have to do it to my wife's Early-2011 one next week. I was cleaning all the crap off her keyboard and apparently nuked the K and 0 keys on her keyboard. Probably my ply challenge was aligning the keyboard illuminator. It's still not aligned properly on mine so some keys are better lit than others, but otherwise it was a relatively easy fix and far cheaper than replacing the entire upper case.

    John Adam Wickliffe -

    My keyboard tasted good coffee and as a consequence keys "/", Enter, RShift, up/down arrows do not work. I was looking to replace upper casing but then saw your comment. My question is: can I get the keyboard alone, without top housing? IIUC that's exactly what you did, right? If so, where can I get the part? Cheers!

    ebelin -

    If I replace just the keyboard, are there any steps that I can skip?

    Duane Wood -

    I replaced my keyboard less than an hour ago. The biggest pain/most time consuming was reattaching the ZIF connector for the keyboard and backlight. No matter what I did I could not get the %#*@ thing to reattach. What sadist designs these things? I had to walk away from the project for an hour and finally success.

    All those screws will make you go crosseyed!

    Gordon - Réponse

    It helps to put some tape along the cable going lengthwise to the cable, and then fold the end of the tape onto itself to give yourself something to hold onto. This will give you some leverage to get that puppy into the socket.

    maccentric -

    I’m glad you managed !!!

    I’m suffering :( take a part about 5 times…… ordered new (used) keyboard, the same results. I tested logic board in my daughter MAC, board works 100% no trouble ……. what could be wrong? there a secret how to reassemble keyboard parts together? I ripped a little bit black plastic thing, not top one with tiny connectors……

    In the end I have two keyboards, cleaned and taken a part, both of them acting identical when installed. Some keys respond by giving absolutely not relevant symbols, beeping noise come with almost every key i pressed…..

    Recovering after massive cappuccino spell after surprising hug :(((((

    Aleksandra Perry -

    I swear to post photo step by step, if I will achieve this one……….. assemble back to 100% working condition after total reassembling, ultrasonic cleaning and drying………. just keyboard panel.

    Give me nightmares :) will be first time I have so much trouble to fix………

    Aleksandra Perry -

    I'm wondering about putting it back together. Different wires and small parts etc were glued or adhered in some way to the case or sides or whatever, as it is put together in the beginning. Is that just to make it easier to put it back together? Should I try to stick them back the way they were with something? Can you use tape or glue if it's just a wire? I wouldn't want to use something that would melt...or is this not something to worry apout?

    ingwis - Réponse

    I just used 1/4 polymide tape, and iFixit double sided tape. Works like a champ.

    Brent Hillyer -

    Hmmm.... I wrote a comment but cant find it now. I asked where I might find a diagnostic page to find out what components may have been damaged by minor water spill. I opened this model A1278 Mac Air (2010?) and there was some corrosion on logic board near power connection which I cleaned off with alcohol/toothbrush. Nothing from online tips will make it power on. This is a great guide to dis-assembly but I don't know what is wrong, e.g., logic board, key board, etc. Tips on how to proceed.? Thanks.

    donaldls - Réponse

    Hi Guys could anyone please assist on where I can order the MacBook Pro top case on the internet? Many thanks :)

    Princess Lukombo - Réponse

    iFixit sells them….

    Kendrick Troyer -


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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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I want to paint my macbook pro, but i do not want to pay the 600 to do so. If i follow this, will painting just the outside of the macbook pro damage any of the internals once reassembling? I am very technical and can follow directions :) Thanks!!

Dustin Hernandez - Réponse

This is a great guide. Just replaced my keyboard after a spill. It's definitely a harrowing experience, especially getting all those 67 microscopic screws holding the keyboard against the top side. But if you sit down with approximately 2 beers (wouldn't recommend more or you'll probably start making mistakes), it's a perfectly manageable 3-4 hour experience. Just take it slow!

Nathan Beach - Réponse

If I replace just the keyboard, are there any steps that I can skip?

Duane Wood -

The only step you can skip is transferring the trackpad. To get to the keyboard you have to completely empty the top case. Plus, to replace the keyboard you have about a gazillion more screws holding the keyboard in place, The only advantage to replacing only the keyboard is cost

Raymond Ives -

Just finished replacing the top cover assembly. The biggest problem I had was re-inserting the ZIF connectors for the keyboard and backlight. There isn’t enough room for my fat fingers to line up the cable with the socket. The angled tweezers applied carefully (don’t want to puncture or rip the cable) and a little help from a spudger made it happen. When switching the cases check carefully for “missing” parts. Besides the trackpad, the upper case I got from iFixit lacked the center support bracket for the optical drive and logic board, the little screw bracket for the bottom case and the antenna stuck to the case behind the right speaker. The antenna is a little fiddly because it’s stickied to the case and there’s not much room to pry it out without bending and possibly damaging it.

All that said, it wasn’t a particularly difficult job, just labor intensive. And the wife’s reaction to getting her business computer back without buying a new one was worth it.

Raymond Ives -

Just finished this and the only things I would add deal with the metal plate that hold the power meter button in is not mentioned and luckily I was able to slide the cable under the logic board and make the connection. otherwise it would be good to add this step before you re insert the logic board. Also the black and orange rubber part that is the bottom of the hard drive mount. They just lift out of the old case and slide into the new case. And there is a metal piece below the speaker that needs to be transferred as well.

Otherwise great guild.

maxcasas21 - Réponse

Is there a video or guide to diagnose this laptop after a minor water spill? I've tried all tips online to dry it out but still no power on. The logic board had some slight corrosion near the power connection when I opened it up which cleaned easily with toothbrush and alcohol. I don't know if it's the logic board or keyboard or what. Apply wants $700 to 'repair' it but won't say what's wrong. Is it worth fooling with myself? Or best to spend a few 100$ to send it in to these people? Or toss it? Thanks.

donaldls - Réponse

I just replaced the keyboard with all those pesky screws. But all is working again. I missed the part in replacing the keyboard itself in the first place. You need to have the sheets in the right order and in the right orientation. Also does it need removal of the stiffening bar that run along the keyboard. I forgot when I removed it, so I was a bit puzzeld when to put it back. Would be nice to add those steps also to this otherwise perfect guide!

haabee - Réponse

I see replacement keyboards listed on Amazon for around $20. If I were to purchase one of those, is there an extra step I can take to remove and replace the keypad from the upper case?

steven - Réponse

Thank you! I went on to replace the keyboard itself, which I found for $20. If I do it again I will make a guide.

steven - Réponse

This video might help in replacing the keyboard part.

pzb4 - Réponse

Just changed the upper cover, no way we could have done this without these instructions, many thumbs up

Saumil Patel - Réponse

Worked great only took about 45 minutes and works like brand new. I had already purchased another MacBook and just set the old one aside believing it was dead. But great experience, fast shipping, and easy tutorials. Love it

carston staehr - Réponse

After seeing how many screws were required to replace just the keyboard I decided I would much rather not risk losing one in the carpet or to the cat or half of them stripping (someone in the factory was lazy when they put my macbook together, half the screws were stripped the first time I opened the case) I went with the full top case replacement and I am so glad I did. Some bits may be slightly different if you had your macbook custom built and/or have made modifications along the way like I have, but overall the guide is perfect. Took me about three hours with distractions, but now my Y key works again and the entire setup is beautifully dust and cat hair free!

vcole - Réponse

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