Introduction

Votre iMac ne lit plus les disques ? Utilisez ce guide pour remplacer un lecteur optique qui ne fonctionne plus.

  1. Avant de commencer, débranchez votre iMac et posez-le sur une surface plane, comme illustré.
    • Avant de commencer, débranchez votre iMac et posez-le sur une surface plane, comme illustré.

    • Collez une ventouse sur chacun des deux angles supérieurs de la vitre.

    • Pour fixer une ventouse, commencez par la positionner avec la poignée mobile parallèle à la surface de la vitre. Tout en maintenant légèrement la ventouse contre la vitre, soulevez la poignée mobile jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit parallèle à l'autre poignée.

    • Si la ventouse n'adhère pas à la vitre, essayez de les nettoyer, l'une et l'autre, à l'aide d'un solvant doux.

    imac 2544 2.5 core i5 i touched the motherboard to supply and it spark now it is not powering

    please tell me the directions

    thanks witting for answering .

    tahir - Réponse

    Im sorry to say, If it sparked when you touched it your motherboard s now fried. You need a new one.

    Robert Wacker -

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton - Réponse

    Success replacing the stock ST31000528AS with a STBD3000100 (Dead 1TB to new 3TB, both Seagate). First try. Using another Mac and a quality Firewire 800 cable, I formatted it using Target Disk mode, 2 partitions (defaults, except I made the first one bigger than the second). To the second, smaller one, I copied a bootable Install OS X Mavericks partition. Tried to boot. It booted, and I installed; nary a glitch. (Running the Installer over Firewire would have been faster, but I didn't want to reboot this machine.)

    See part 2 below...

    Matthew Elvey - Réponse

    (Part 2:)

    I SKIPPED steps 6, 7 AND 8! Instead, after doing Step 5, I noticed I then had enough room and cable length to access the screws in Step 11 if I lifted the LCD up an inch or so, rotated it about 20-30 degrees clockwise and moved it a couple inches toward the base, and put it down. After removing them (Step 11), I propped up the LCD (with a spare spudger) and had enough room to do Steps 12, 13, and 14 without much difficulty. Felt safer/less work and risk than not skipping steps 6-8. No risk of the damage Ersan and Michael caused performing Step 7!

    Matthew Elvey -

    I just edited that step to add a note about the shortcut.

    Matthew Elvey -

    What the ???

    Geoff Wacker has REJECTED my edit: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/history/ste...

    I wonder why. What's the deal, Geoff? I mean I'd understand if I suggested folks didn't need the suction cups, as that could cut into iFixit's income stream, but what's wrong with suggesting that a few steps aren't needed? It worked for me; the EMC 2389 I fixed is humming along with a new 3TB HD I installed while skipping those steps.

    Matthew Elvey -

    I did not have to remove a single cable! After undoing the torx screws from the sides, I was able to rotate the LCD out of the way enough to reach all the screws holding in the ODD bracket. One of them was a bit challenging to get to, but I never felt that I was risking the cables by leaving them connected. Also, it wasn't totally clear, but you have to actually remove the ODD itself from the ODD bracket - 4 torx screws. The SDD mounts into the hard drive enclosure, then the enclosure is screwed into the bracket. Those holes (enclosure <-> Bracket) did not line up correctly for me, and I had to go with only three of them connected in the end. Seems to work fine.

    cdansmith1 - Réponse

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov - Réponse

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival - Réponse

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    Hello, I just need to replace a slightly cracked screen on my iMac. Where is it best to place the suction cups? Thanks in advance

    michelemiller0 - Réponse

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso - Réponse

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale - Réponse

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna - Réponse

    I have an odd question -- I want to remove the polarizer from the LCD. With some monitors this is trivial, others not so much. My question is whether it is bonded to the Liquid crystal, or whether it's loose, or cutting it with a razor blade would remove it. Obviously I'd like to know before I go to the trouble of dismantling the thing... Thanks. Paul

    Paul Kwiat - Réponse

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx - Réponse

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks - Réponse

  2. Soulevez doucement la vitre perpendiculairement à l'écran LCD pour dégager les broches de montage en acier fixées en dessous de la vitre, le long du bord supérieur.
    • Soulevez doucement la vitre perpendiculairement à l'écran LCD pour dégager les broches de montage en acier fixées en dessous de la vitre, le long du bord supérieur.

    • Retirez la vitre en l'éloignant du bord inférieur de l'iMac et mettez-la de côté.

    • Lors de la réinstallation, veillez à nettoyer soigneusement l'intérieur de la vitre et la face avant de l'écran LCD, car la présence de poussière ou d'empreintes digitales pourrait gêner la visibilité une fois l'appareil sous tension.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs - Réponse

    Microfiber Cloth

    Leonardo Fournier -

    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T10 8 mm par lesquelles l'écran est fixé au boîtier extérieur.

    • Les deux dernières photographies illustrent chaque côté de l'écran.

    On reassembly, it is REALLY HARD to align those screws, because of the field of the strong magnets that hold the glass cover on. I'm sure there's a trick to it, but I'd love to know what it is for future reference.

    Peter Shenkin - Réponse

    I used needlenose pliers and the T10 to align the screw into the hole. Otherwise the screw keeps jumping to the magnet. And patience with this NON-CAPTIVE screw design (c’mon Apple, even **I** came up with that, and I’m an idiot!)

    finnik2d - Réponse

    A short piece of small gauge vinyl tubing that fits tightly over the head of the T-10 driver leaving an 8th of an inch or so in which to insert the screw to engage the head will hold the screw long enough to keep it away from the magnet and get it going in the hole.

    Paul Boudreau - Réponse

    • Soulevez légèrement le bord supérieur de l'écran hors du boîtier extérieur.

    • Ne le soulevez pas trop. L'écran est en effet relié à la carte mère par plusieurs câbles.

    When putting the display back I have resistance from the foam elements (on the top end where the iSight is) and have to press down really hard. Is that okay?

    gm.konsortium - Réponse

    Well, stupid me put the 3.5" to 2.5" cage the wrong side up. ;)

    gm.konsortium - Réponse

    Standing the imac upright on its stand really helps this step! Laying it falt makes getting under the panel a real hassle.

    finnik2d - Réponse

    • Débranchez le câble de synchronisation verticale de sa prise sur la carte de rétro-éclairage, près de l'angle supérieur gauche de l'iMac.

    • Le câble-ruban de synchronisation verticale a une extrémité de type ZIF, mais la prise ne possède ni dispositif de verrouillage ni volet de fixation. Tirez simplement le câble hors de sa prise vers le côté de l'iMac correspondant au lecteur optique pour le débrancher de la carte de rétro-éclairage.

    The vertical sync cable was snug initially and now is loose. I checked and the cable is intact. Has anyone had experience with making it fit better?

    Rajan - Réponse

    Scotch tape on the upper side and sliding this in helped to secure the cable.

    Rajan - Réponse

    Reassembly of this part was the closest I came to disaster on this project. I tried inserting the connector a few times without success, and when I looked it it the leads, which are fragile, were all mangled. I smoothed them out by hand as best I could and and reinserted, very carefully this time. The trick is that the tip of the connector should be pointed somewhat upwards when reconnecting.

    I was pretty sure that when I was done, I would reboot but have no display; but fortunately, everything worked.

    Peter Shenkin - Réponse

    Hi, I still have a question. What is the "Job" of the vertical sync ribbon cable. Thanks

    Lutz Blum - Réponse

    So let’s say someone wanted to suck some of the dust off the back of the display before reassembly. Let’s just say that. Someone would likely suck this forsaken cable up into the vacuum tube then, wouldn’t they? They might. And if it were to oscillate in a rushing torrent of air, it might get munged? It might.

    Here’s how you overcome such a disaster:

    1) cut the end fresh, as close to the end as you can while cutting off any frayed end.

    2) abrade the end gently, repeatedly, along the connector wire axis. I used emory paper. Your goal is to expose the copper conductors in the last 1/4” of the fragile evil wire.

    3) Tape a small stiff cardstock to the back of the end of the connector. This is essential to press the connector wires into the connector.

    4) Gently insert, taking special caution to not peel the copper off of the connector.

    5) Tape that connector down deftly, without letting it move a millimeter and securing it for all time.

    sydnius - Réponse

    I just leave it connected. After disconnecting the other cables, there is enough slack to lay the display on its backside if you’re working on a flat surface.

    Duane Johnson - Réponse

    I have replaced the hdd in this model about 8-10 times - I have never had to disconnect any cables other than the sata and temp sensor cables on the hdd. I just prop the lcd up with an egg carton (or something about 3 inches high that is soft and light) and access the hdd that way. The only thing I ever have trouble with are is putting the LCD screws back in around the magnets - but I have pretty much perfected that with a sissor/ tweezer tool.

    Suzanne Levy - Réponse

    • Faites pivoter l'écran hors du boîtier extérieur, suffisamment pour débrancher le câble d'alimentation du rétro-éclairage LED de la carte de rétro-éclairage.

    • Débranchez le câble d'alimentation du rétro-éclairage LED en appuyant sur le mécanisme de verrouillage tout en tirant le connecteur hors de sa prise (vers le bord inférieur de l'iMac).

    I found it easier to very slightly lift the front edge of the black connector with a small spudger, then gently pulling away towards the bottom of the iMac. Pressing felt a little crude and didn’t work for me.

    Antonio Caira - Réponse

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    • Exercez une pression sur les deux bras du connecteur du câble de données de l'écran pour le libérer de la prise sur la carte mère.

    • Tirez le connecteur du câble de données de l'écran hors de la prise sur la carte mère.

    in Step 7, my connector (new 21.5 iMac - Dec 2010) was not attached that way and just came of easily.

    erin - Réponse

    Aperte as duas exibição do conector do cabo de dados braços juntos para desbloqueá-lo de seu soquete na placa lógica.

    Darlan Perira da Silva - Réponse

    I accidently broke the data cable socket on step 7. Any advice on what i should do?

    Sam Tang - Réponse

    I feel pretty silly. I spent wayyyy too long trying to get these cables disconnected. Happy I found this guide; hopefully, I won't struggle with such simple things since you provide pretty good details! Thanks.

    J.w. - Réponse

    Pas beaucoup de place pour déconnecter ce cable ! En essayant d'ouvrir trop l'écran pour passer mes "grosses mains" j'ai cossé le connecteur : je suis dans le caca :-( (et pourtant j'en fait des démontages !) Alors ATTENTION !!!

    divers - Réponse

    Il vaut mieux déconnecter la partie du côté écran en premier (sous l'autocollant noir)

    divers - Réponse

    Je suis d’accord. C’est plus facile. Merci mon ami

    Antonio Caira -

    • Débranchez le connecteur du câble du capteur thermique LCD de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    • Déconnectez le câble de rétroéclairage LED en appuyant sur le connecteur et en tirant à la fois légèrement sur les fils.

    This is important regarding the fan running full speed

    http://blog.macsales.com/19617-diagnosin...

    tobykirkland - Réponse

    Is there a way to test the power supply to see if it's dead?

    professorminh - Réponse

    Achtung! Dieser Stecker kann sehr fest sitzen, hier hilft ein guter Fingernagel um den Stecker abwechselnd rechts und links zu Hebeln

    bluesoundsmusic - Réponse

    • Avec précaution, tirez l'écran vers le bord supérieur de votre iMac et sortez-le du boîtier extérieur, en faisant attention aux câbles qui peuvent se coincer.

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    • Débranchez le connecteur du capteur thermique du lecteur optique de sa prise sur la carte mère en le tenant bien droit.

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    • Retirez les quatre vis Torx T10 9 mm par lesquelles le lecteur optique est fixé au boîtier extérieur.

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    • Soulevez le bord intérieur du lecteur optique et dégagez son connecteur du cadre du processeur graphique (GPU) attaché à la carte mère.

    • Avec précaution, libérez le lecteur optique des broches de montage sur le bord du boîtier extérieur afin de dégager un espace suffisant pour débrancher le câble du lecteur.

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    • Aidez-vous de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger pour débrancher le câble du lecteur optique.

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    • Il n'est pas nécessaire de décoller toute la bande adhésive EMI du support du lecteur optique. Décollez uniquement la partie encadrée en rouge qui est attachée au boîtier du lecteur optique.

    • Décollez la portion de la bande d'aluminium encadrée en rouge, en laissant le reste collé au support du lecteur optique en plastique noir.

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    • Retirez les deux vis Torx T10 de chaque côté du lecteur optique (quatre vis au total).

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    • Si nécessaire, à l'aide de la pointe d'un spudger, appuyez sur les petites pattes de fixation du support du lecteur optique pour les dégager des logements prévus à cet effet en-dessous du lecteur optique.

    • Faites pivoter légèrement le support par rapport au lecteur optique.

    • Tirez sur le support pour le séparer du lecteur en prenant soin de ne pas arracher les pattes de fixation.

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    • À l'aide de la pointe d'un spudger, décollez le morceau de ruban mousse qui recouvre le capteur thermique du lecteur optique.

    • À l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'un spudger, faites doucement levier sur le capteur thermique pour le décoller de la bande adhésive par laquelle il est fixé sur le capteur optique.

    Can you (re)use this exact thermal sensor on the optical drive and attach it to a new SSD?

    Ali Mir - Réponse

    @AliMir - yes, you can reattach the thermal sensor to the new SSD

    osienna - Réponse

    Hello, I've broken the temperature sensor of the unit superdirve, where I can buy one?

    Angel Blasco - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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A word of caution when reassembling. Be sure to replace the LCD thermal sensor connector and the optical drive thermal sensor connector with the contacts facing down. They are both very small and easy to overlook the contact points. If either or both are reinstalled wrong the iMac will not power up. You will get a white screen momentarily and then it will go black. I made that mistake and had to go back in and correctly insert them which solved the power up problem.

cwrd - Réponse

I successfully put an SSD (mounted in OWC data doubler) into the optical drive slot.

I got slightly thrown for a moment that at step 10, the iMac was apparently rotated 180 degrees. I didn't really want to change my work position, so I turned my iPad upside down to follow the pictures correctly. Not sure why the perspective changed at that point in the manual.

The other "interesting" task was reattaching the LCD, what with the nearby rare earth magnets trying to steal the screws. Having a heavily magnetized torx screwdriver was a big help; I just took a magnet of my own and stuck it on the handle end of the shaft, and then it held the screw enough to make the job possible.

I was quite relieved when my iMac booted after all this. :)

neilweinstock - Réponse

Per error se'm va introduir una targeta portadora de microSD tipus SD a traves de la ranura del lector de CD-DVD.

Seguint aquesta guia perfectament bé explicada i amb les eines adequades, T10 Torx, tornavís de rellotger tipus estrella o philips i en el meu cas dues ventoses solidaries tipus mànec d'enganxar a la paret de la dutxa per no caure; he aconseguit recuperar la microSD, el lector de CD-DVD i el iMAC continua sencer.

Mil gràcies Andrew Bookholt, ets un crack e indubtablement molt bona persona.

atvillarroya - Réponse

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