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Introduction

Utilisez ce guide pour remplacer le vibreur.

  1. Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium ion chargée peut s'enflammer et/ou exploser si elle est percée accidentellement.
    • Avant de démonter votre iPhone, déchargez la batterie en dessous de 25%. Une batterie lithium ion chargée peut s'enflammer et/ou exploser si elle est percée accidentellement.

    • Éteignez votre iPhone avant de commencer la réparation.

    • Retirez les deux vis Pentalobe de 3,6 mm situées près du connecteur Lightning.

    I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

    estebanfallasf - Réponse

    I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

    Margaret Patterson - Réponse

    Before you even start: get the iOpener or hairdryer out. You’ll need it

    GPZ - Réponse

    If a lightning connector won’t provide a charge or needs to be wiggled carefully to provide a charge, power off the device, then try using precision tweezers to scrape the innermost wall of the lightning jack in a pinching motion to check for lint buildup. Pocket lint or other debris can accumulate inside the jack, compacting each time a cable is inserted. This can prevent a lightning cable from seating fully. Clearing the lint may restore functionality without replacing the part.

    Andrew Dolan - Réponse

    A few hints:

    * heating up the phone works great. I used a heating pad that you put in the microwave to heat sports injuries.

    * also, I made a sheet to help you keep track of the screws as you remove them. Print out the page, then place double sided tape below each color-coded listing of screws, and stick the screws to the tape as you disassemble. This helps prevent losing the screws and keeps track of what screws are what for easier reassembly. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pLSvKvB...

    Paul Faulstich - Réponse

    Additional hints, for anyone who needs them:

    * stick the screws to the tape in the same positions as they are shown in the guide. This will make it easier to identify them during reassembly.

    * if the screws get mixed together, the ‘mm’ (millimetre, millimeter) measurements given in the guide can be used to identify them. Compare the lengths of the threaded shafts to each other to determine which screw is which.

    Friendly Advice -

    • Les deux prochaines étapes vous montrent comment utiliser l'iSclack, une pince spécialement conçue pour ouvrir votre iPhone 6 Plus en toute sécurité, et que nous recommandons à tous ceux qui effectuent souvent de réparations. Si vous n'utilisez pas d'iSclack, autez deux étapes.

    • Si la jauge de profondeur en plastique est attachée au milieu de l'iSclack, retirez-la, elle n'est pas nécessaire pour les iPhone de grande taille tel que l'iPhone 6 Plus.

    • Serrez les poignées pour ouvrir les mâchoires avec les ventouses.

    • Placez la partie inférieure de votre iPhone entre les deux ventouses.

    • Positionnez la ventouse supérieure contre la vitre près du bouton home.

    • Ouvrez les poignées pour fermer les ventouses. Centrez et exercez une pression sur les ventouses.

    • Si votre écran ou coque arrière est brisé, le recouvrir avec une couche de ruban adhésif transparent peut aider les ventouses à adhérer. L'iSlack comprend également deux morceaux de ruban adhésif à cet effet.

  2. Tenez bien votre iPhone et desserrez les poignées de l'iSclack pour séparer les ventouses et enlever la vitre du boîtier arrière. Le iSclack est conçu pour ouvrir votre iPhone en toute sécurité, c'est à dire, sans risquer d'endommager les nappes de l'écran.
    • Tenez bien votre iPhone et desserrez les poignées de l'iSclack pour séparer les ventouses et enlever la vitre du boîtier arrière.

    • Le iSclack est conçu pour ouvrir votre iPhone en toute sécurité, c'est à dire, sans risquer d'endommager les nappes de l'écran.

    • Décollez les deux ventouses de votre iPhone.

    • Sautez les trois prochaines étapes et continuez à l'étape 7

    It's very difficult if you want to remove a cracked screen. The suction cup and Islack won't work. Does anybody know a better way?

    Herbert - Réponse

    I use Scotch Tape, shipping tape. Put a couple of layers over the crack screen. That seals it so you can use the suction cup to remove the front of phone.

    Michael Wallace -

    I used the plastic pry took and the spudger to open it up. I place the pry tool dead center below the home button and was able to put some pressure around the seam and the top popped up enough for me to get the spudger in there to hold it open and then work my way around with the plastic pry tool.

    johnoconna -

    Apply clear packaging tape to screen. Then suction cup to that.

    Tracey -

    Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

    Abigail Cherry - Réponse

    I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

    Mike - Réponse

  3. Si vous n'avez pas d'iSlack, utilisez une ventouse pour soulever l'écran :
    • Si vous n'avez pas d'iSlack, utilisez une ventouse pour soulever l'écran :

    • Posez une ventouse sur la vitre juste au dessus du bouton home et appuyez.

    • Assurez-vous que la ventouse est bien accrochée à la vitre.

    • Si votre écran est très fissuré, le recouvrir d'une couche d'adhésif transparent peut permettre à la ventouse d'adhérer. Autre solution, un adhésif très résistant peut être utilisé à la place de la ventouse. Si tout échoue, vous pouvez coller la ventouse sur l'écran cassé.

    Avec la ventouse, l’ouverture est brutale, tout s’est déclipsé d’un seul coup. Faire attention.

    Paul Briffaut - Réponse

    English Please!

    tom mozeleski -

    With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

    Steve Schlotter - Réponse

    May need to burp the sticker before it sticks. Need to let the air out. Once Idid that, no problem. Except it was still hard to get the cover to start up.

    Patricia Tucker - Réponse

    Don’t waste your time with the suction cup - it doesn’t work! insert the blade of a box cutter just below the lower screen edge below the home button and gently pry just enough to start cracking the seal.

    Stephen Smith - Réponse

  4. Tout en tenant l'iPhone, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement l'écran du boîtier arrière.
    • Tout en tenant l'iPhone, tirez sur la ventouse pour séparer légèrement l'écran du boîtier arrière.

    • Prenez votre temps et tirez de façon ferme et continue. L'écran tient beaucoup mieux que la plupart des composants.

    • Utilisez un outil en plastique (plastic opening tool) pour pousser le boîtier vers le bas tout en tirant sur la ventouse vers le haut.

    • Il y a plusieurs clips qui attachent l'écran au boîtier, il vous faudra utiliser et la ventouse et l'outil en plastique ( plastic opening tool) pour libérer l'écran.

    Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

    Thomas - Réponse

    watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

    Aaron Fitzpatrick - Réponse

    Note: this comment is written for the iPhone 6 Plus, but may also apply to other models of iPhone.

    Disassembly:

    The clips in the rear case attach to small slotted shapes under the edges of the display assembly, and these attachment points alternate from one side to the other. Moving from bottom to top, gently pulling the rear case away at these points will help to separate the two halves without using too much force.

    Reassembly:

    Ensure that the plastic clips along the top edge of the front panel (shown in step 8) are fitted properly inside the rear case, then gently press the display assembly into the rear case at these points, moving from top to bottom. There may be a small click sound as the clips in the rear case engage with the slots on the display assembly, and the rear case should fit flush with the edges of the display assembly.

    Friendly Advice - Réponse

  5. Tirez sur le bouton en plastique pour relâcher la pression interne de la ventouse. Décrochez la ventouse de l'écran.
    • Tirez sur le bouton en plastique pour relâcher la pression interne de la ventouse.

    • Décrochez la ventouse de l'écran.

    There is an adhesive strip all along the edge between the top and bottom of the phone. Is that just adhesive or is it wire of some sort?

    Larry Ingerling - Réponse

    @lingerling The adhesive strip was introduced on the iPhone 6s and 6s Plus (one model year later than what’s shown on this page). Guides specific to each model can be found here—be sure to use the correct one for your particular phone. And yes, just adhesive, no wires. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

  6. Soulevez la partie de l'écran avec le bouton home tout en utilisant la partie supérieure du téléphone pour faire charnière. Ouvrez l'écran à un angle d'environ 90 ° et penchez-le contre quelque chose pour le garder calé pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone. Ajoutez une bande adhésive pour maintenir l'écran bien en place pendant que vous travaillez. Cela évite une pression excessive sur les câbles de l'écran.
    • Soulevez la partie de l'écran avec le bouton home tout en utilisant la partie supérieure du téléphone pour faire charnière.

    • Ouvrez l'écran à un angle d'environ 90 ° et penchez-le contre quelque chose pour le garder calé pendant que vous travaillez sur le téléphone.

    • Ajoutez une bande adhésive pour maintenir l'écran bien en place pendant que vous travaillez. Cela évite une pression excessive sur les câbles de l'écran.

    • À la limite, vous pouvez utiliser une boisson en canette fermée pour maintenir l'écran.

    Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

    Español:

    Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

    txaukos - Réponse

    At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

    If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

    Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

    Perdón por mi mal inglés

    txaukos - Réponse

  7. Plusieurs clips le long du bord supérieur de l'écran forment une charnière partielle, permettant d'ouvrir l'écran comme un livre. Lors du remontage, alignez les clips correctement sous le bord supérieur du boîtier. Puis insérez l'écran jusqu'à ce que son bord supérieur soit au même niveau que celui du boîtier.
    • Plusieurs clips le long du bord supérieur de l'écran forment une charnière partielle, permettant d'ouvrir l'écran comme un livre.

    • Lors du remontage, alignez les clips correctement sous le bord supérieur du boîtier. Puis insérez l'écran jusqu'à ce que son bord supérieur soit au même niveau que celui du boîtier.

    I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

    anthonyspampinato - Réponse

  8. Retirez les vis cruciformes suivantes du support du connecteur de la batterie :
    • Retirez les vis cruciformes suivantes du support du connecteur de la batterie :

    • Une vis de 2,3 mm

    • Une vis de 3,1 mm

    for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

    Michael Adams - Réponse

    I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

    Allen Matheson - Réponse

    stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

    Matthew Gao - Réponse

    The Phillips bits provided in the kit would not engage the Phillips heads enough to loosen them. Luckily I had my own small screwdriver set that worked like a charm.

    David Davis - Réponse

    Same issue. Could not remove the screw. Dead in the water.

    Tiffany - Réponse

    Agree with above comments regarding the supplied Phillips bit. It is not the correct size.

    Use a Phillips #000.

    bobgottner - Réponse

    Phillips #000 is what’s included in the kit. As others mentioned above, firm downward pressure is key. The phone is not that delicate; just press hard and crank it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Is this step necessary ?\

    Asianay - Réponse

    @asianay0129 Yes, disconnecting the battery is necessary. You can sometimes get away with skipping it, at the risk of destroying something important and potentially bricking your phone. Not a wise gamble for the sake of skipping two screws.

    Jeff Suovanen - Réponse

  9. Retirez le support métallique du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.
    • Retirez le support métallique du connecteur de batterie de l'iPhone.

    Was not able to remove the battery connector bracket as one of the cable connectors was glued/stuck to the underside. Instead moved the bracket out of the way to disconnect the battery. Care should be taken not to over bend/stretch the ribbon cable.

    dwtan - Réponse

    That may be just the foam connector adhering to the bracket. If you pull up gently and twist slightly it should separate.

    Evan Noronha -

    It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

    Al Taylor - Réponse

  10. Utilisez un ongle propre ou un outil d'ouverture pour soulever délicatement le connecteur de batterie de son support sur la carte logique.
    • Utilisez un ongle propre ou un outil d'ouverture pour soulever délicatement le connecteur de batterie de son support sur la carte logique.

    • Prenez soin de seulement faire levier sur le connecteur de la batterie, et non sur la prise de la carte logique. Si vous faites levier sur la prise de la carte logique, vous risquez de briser entièrement le connecteur.

    you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

    Michael Adams - Réponse

    It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

    Al Taylor - Réponse

    J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

    Paul Briffaut - Réponse

    Magnification is key for many tasks and this is certainly one.

    Kenneth Gilbert - Réponse

    I couldn’t use the iFixit blue opening tool to pry that battery connector. I used the top of the black spudger near the hole where the 3.1mm screw was in step 9-10 to easily pry it open!

    Alyssa Sayuki - Réponse

    The blue plastic board breaker can easily cause damage here. Professionals would recommend using the human fingernail as the ideal tool for this job.

    Jessa Jones - Réponse

  11. Enlevez les vis cruciformes suivantes, qui maintiennent le cache des connecteurs de l'écran :
    • Enlevez les vis cruciformes suivantes, qui maintiennent le cache des connecteurs de l'écran :

    • Trois vis de 1,2 mm

    • Une vis de 1,5 mm

    • Une vis de 2,9 mm

    • N'essayez pas d'insérer des vis plus longues dans les trous de vis marqués en rouge. Cela pourrait endommager la carte mère de façon irréparable.

    There's an other panel with one screw in the middle.........

    Herbert - Réponse

    Sounds like you have an iPhone 6s Plus, rather than a 6 Plus. Be sure to use the correct guide! And make sure you’ve ordered the correct part, as they’re not cross-compatible.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I _love_ the color coding of screws. I know this is a little OCD, but it would be incredibly useful if there were an 8.5 X 11 you could print with indicated homes for where to drop items from each step of disassembly. That is, in the box for step 9, little colored circles for where to place each screw type. As long as you don't jostle the paper, it would make it a lot easier to know exactly where you are in reassembly.

    cscarlson47shop - Réponse

    I have done the exact same thing. Created a sheet where each screw goes.

    Chris Murphy -

    I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

    hhandh - Réponse

    Actually you don’t need to do steps 12 to 18 if you attach the display panel to the iPhone box as shown in step 7 and handle your iPhone with care during the replacement. I didn’t disconnect the display panel mainly because the more you work on the interior of your phone the higher is the chance you break something.

    Dany Castillo - Réponse

    Since this guide is for DISPLAY replacement, I don’t see how you can skip the steps for disconnecting and removing the DISPLAY.

    Jim Bateman -

    That's what I was thinking.

    The Wizard - Réponse

    I skipped this series of steps too. I was very careful when removing the battery and never had an issue with the screen leaning back against the box that this battery shipped in. I even broke half of the third strip of adhesive but used a plastic card to slide under the battery and it slowly lifted out without applying heat.

    mark - Réponse

    I'm having trouble with one screw not wanting to come out. Any suggestions to keep from stripping the head and getting it?

    Patric - Réponse

    which screws are which sizes cause i ordered new ones and cant figure it out

    MONsterHEIT - Réponse

    I also did not see the need to remove the display assembly for this repair. However I did place a can of corn against the vertically positioned display and then secured the display to the can with a rubber band.

    whiteshephard - Réponse

    I recommend removing the display assembly, I didn’t and somehow damaged the home button cable. At least remove the cover to ease the tension on the cables.

    Steve Schlotter - Réponse

    I played around with different screwdrivers to get certain screws out. I made sure I wasn’t applying heavy pressure so I wouldn’t strip the head. Apple is crazy for doing this to us lol.

    Anyways invest in a magnetized mat to organize your screws. It was really difficult to keep things organized and still, especially with these tiny screws…

    Jeffrey Robinos - Réponse

    what happens if i forgot to put the ribbon cable shield back on? the phone is now working but i forgot to put the shield back on and i am missing 2 screws. can i leave the shield off?

    Fred ticoman. - Réponse

    @ticoman12 It’ll work without the shield, but the connectors may pop out unexpectedly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just be really careful remembering which screw is which. I drew a quick sketch of the bracket, then put the screws in the relevant places. There’s no way I would have been able to figure them out otherwise - my eyes can’t see the difference between a 1.2 and 1.5mm screw!

    Paul Johnson - Réponse

    The most fiddly part of the job.

    Much easier if you put the screwdriver head on the screw and then insert it into the opening. The slight magnetism will hold it in place. Don’t fully tighten a screw until all the screws are in place. Much like installing lug nuts on a car.

    GPZ - Réponse

    I also skipped steps 12-18 as Danny had suggested. It made this repair quite easy, so thank you and others for suggesting this. I was also very careful to allow the battery to discharge before starting the process.

    Bruce Platt - Réponse

    I question whether Steps 12-18 (separating the display from the case) is actually necessary? The battery can be removed/replaced with the display connected (but standing upright, as displayed in Step 7.

    Leaving the display attached obviates the most difficult steps (re-connecting the various control ribbons — 3/4 of ‘em!

    I followed this manual completely and the repair was successful. But if I had this to do over, I’d leave the display connected.

    Dana Smith - Réponse

    I skipped the steps 12-18 as well and thank goodness I did so I won’t have to worry about issues with any of the cables.

    my panel is different from what is pictured anyway ‘cause I have one screw in the middle like what Herbert said on the first comment.

    Maria Filamor-Robinson - Réponse

    I realized too late just how handy the magnetic mat is that they have in their shop. So I organized the screws with a piece of clear packing tape. On the smooth side, use a sharpie to draw spacious circles with “R” “O” and “Y” inside each circle to represent the color coded screws and then use the sticky side to keep the screws in place. I found that using the tweezers to take them off the screwdriver helps you stick them head first to the tape better.

    Selena Castillo - Réponse

  12. Enlevez le cache des connecteurs de l'écran de la carte mère.
    • Enlevez le cache des connecteurs de l'écran de la carte mère.

  13. Pendant les quatre étapes suivantes, faites attention de ne déconnecter que les connecteurs des nappes et surtout pas les connections sur la carte mère. Tout en tenant toujours l'écran, utilisez un ongle ou l'extrémité plate d'un Spudger (spatule en nylon) pour déconnecter la caméra avant et le haut-parleur interne.
    • Pendant les quatre étapes suivantes, faites attention de ne déconnecter que les connecteurs des nappes et surtout pas les connections sur la carte mère.

    • Tout en tenant toujours l'écran, utilisez un ongle ou l'extrémité plate d'un Spudger (spatule en nylon) pour déconnecter la caméra avant et le haut-parleur interne.

    Why does the screen need to come off?

    Sterling Coffey (N0SSC) - Réponse

    Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

    Matthew Goheen - Réponse

    I don't know if anyone will see this but here it goes: for the life of me I can't get the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector to seat. Everything else went back together fine but this one connector will not go in. Sometimes it seems like it's in even though it doesn't really pop in and it'll kinda sit there for a sec and then it pops out.

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thank you

    Droopy Caledonia - Réponse

  14. Déconnectez le connecteur de la nappe de bouton home. Déconnectez le connecteur de la nappe de bouton home.
    • Déconnectez le connecteur de la nappe de bouton home.

  15. Assurez-vous à cette étape que la batterie est débranchée avant de déconnecter ou reconnecter la nappe. Utilisez un outil en plastique pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe de gestion de l'écran.
    • Assurez-vous à cette étape que la batterie est débranchée avant de déconnecter ou reconnecter la nappe.

    • Utilisez un outil en plastique pour déconnecter le connecteur de la nappe de gestion de l'écran.

    • Lors du remontage de votre téléphone, la nappe de gestion de l'écran peut se défaire du connecteur. Les conséquences peuvent être des lignes blanches ou un écran noir lorsque vous rallumez votre téléphone. Si c'est le cas, reconnectez simplement la nappe et débranchez et rebranchez votre téléphone. La meilleure façon de le faire est de déconnecter et reconnecter le connecteur de la batterie.

    The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

    Gianni - Réponse

    how did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?

    Teresa Trevino - Réponse

    If you’ve been following the guide, you already disconnected it in this step. To reconnect it, just line up the connector and press it into place.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    After replacing the battery, the phone seems dead. I thought it just needed recharging so I left it charging all night. Still dead in the morning. Now I think it might be because the display data cable is off, and I should open the phone and check it. But the battery might be on full power in that case, and they don’t advice to open the phone when battery if full. What can I do?

    Ila Awasthi - Réponse

  16. Pour terminer, déconnecter la nappe de gestion tactile. Lors de la reconnexion du câble numériseur, ne pas appuyer sur le centre du connecteur. Appuyez sur une extrémité du connecteur, puis appuyez sur l'extrémité opposée. Appuyer sur le centre du connecteur peut plier le composant et causer des dommages au numériseur.
    • Pour terminer, déconnecter la nappe de gestion tactile.

    • Lors de la reconnexion du câble numériseur, ne pas appuyer sur le centre du connecteur. Appuyez sur une extrémité du connecteur, puis appuyez sur l'extrémité opposée. Appuyer sur le centre du connecteur peut plier le composant et causer des dommages au numériseur.

    some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

    cscarlson47shop - Réponse

    When you're reassembling, a note that this is the step where you should test for proper screen function would be really useful. First time I reassembled, I didn't seat something properly, got all the screws back together and then realized the screen wasn't functioning properly. Had to disassemble back down to step 14 and then re-reassemble.

    cscarlson47shop - Réponse

    I am having this issues right now! I have unplugged and plugged in these cables at least 20 times and each time I get white lines. I finally have it to where there are only 4 white lines and I am almost willing to live with it. Any suggestions?

    mattmay002 -

    Clean the screen connectors incase they are not making a clean connection

    Karen Jones - Réponse

    I'm having nightmares with the digitizer connector. Simply can't get it to work unless I'm applying some pressure on the connectors. Everything seems almost microscopically clean. Any suggestions friends?

    Henry A -

    could it be the replacement screen? test with your old screen and see if you have the same problem.

    Charles - Réponse

    To ++mattmay002++  Did you power cycle the phone? Check out the comments on the previous step for a how to.

    Robert Liles - Réponse

    I had issues with it too. When connecting this cable, make sure to rock finger side to side after connecting. It’s a wide connector so try to listen for 2 clicks on this one connector. That’s how I fixed mine

    Albert Einstein - Réponse

    Re-attaching this cable is the only tricky part to replacing the battery on my 6+. It had a bow on the middle that I had to flatten out before pressing the connector on with finger first on one edge and then on the other. I had white tire tracks on the screen and no touch screen until I connected it correctly. The front has to rest in just the right place on the back while attaching this thing so the cables aren’t strained the front doesn’t fall down. Small fingers would be a plus at this step.

    richard - Réponse

    Reseating these connectors on reassembly is definitely the most difficult part of this repair. It took me several attempts before the lowermost connector would seat properly and I did accidentally bend it slightly in the process. Fortunately I was able to get it straight again and get it to click in. The other three went in fine though and no lasting damage seems to have been done.

    Andy Gibbons - Réponse

    Another thing - These cables can become overlapped in the wrong way and make you think they are in a different order than they should be. Eg. it’s easy to mix up the ones from step 15 and 17. You can actually unravel the cables and re-layer them on top of each other in any order, so remember this! They look like they’re one solid mass but they’re not.

    domarius - Réponse

    I never removed the last digitizer connctor. I removed the first three connectors, left the screen propped at 90 deg tied to a box and removed the battery, there is minimal movement. In fact when I reattached the connectors, only the first and maybe second connector feels taut, so it’s necessary to only remove the first connector if you can be gentle with it. Less headache. And my guess why so many people had issues is that micro dust gets into the connectors and cause connection loss. You be surprised how little dust can cause havoc.

    darrcc - Réponse

    And forgot one thing, keep a can of air duster woth you to remove as must dust as you can see. A camera air blower will also do nice.

    darrcc - Réponse

    I haven’t removed my screen in past battery replacements, I found it easier. However, this time I followed the instructions because my old battery was very stuck, and I needed the screen gone to get the battery out…

    When I replaced the screen, at first it wouldn’t even boot/start up. (Yes, I inserted my own testing step, as someone here suggested, before final reassembly).

    The screen would just show a fuzzy image, and the board that all the cables attach to would heat up, then it would turn itself off. I tried reconnecting them carefully 3 times, and even made sure to get a little “click”, all to no avail.

    The final try, I used my fingernail to really press down on the back side of the digitizer cable. I heard more clicking, though I thought I might be tearing the cable too. With nothing left to lose, I continued across the back, and heard several more clicking/tearing sounds.

    This worked, and it booted after that. It still had white lines, but those faded away overnight.

    Morgan Giddings - Réponse

    About the digitizer connector: its flat cable is so short that the when I attempted to seat the next connector, its flat cable pressed on the digitizer cable, which can pull on the connector and dislodge it. That happened several times for me before success.

    Robert Bernard 27 Nov 19

    Robert H Bernard - Réponse

    Nous n’apercevons pas bien les nappes et l’ordre dans lesquelles elles doivent être replacer

    Patrick AZOULAY - Réponse

  17. Détachez l'écran du boîtier arrière.
    • Détachez l'écran du boîtier arrière.

    Never remove the screen without disconnecting the battery. It's possible the back light can be blown and that's a even more difficult repair. Always, ALWAYS, disconnect battery before repairing items. (Unless it's not possible.)

    Marvin Ballard - Réponse

    How do you disconnect the battery from the screen?

    Shamil Bhatti -

    The Step 11 disconnects the battery :)

    jeffxtechs - Réponse

    I think you mean Step 8 :)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you disconnect the battery

    I tried it once and

    Brian - Réponse

    And what? I tried it once and here’s a million dollars?

    Oh I get it… they got him! :(

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlznqpBg...

    domarius -

    When disassembling the iphone at this point note the cables, and there placement/orientation.

    GERARD SZAREK - Réponse

    Be really careful with the step after this. Do not commence until you have read all the comments. You need to get a good hold of the plastic strips preferably before they double over on themselves. You have to avoid puncturing the battery at all costs. Slowness and caution here will save you a lot of long term pain.

    Laura Houghton - Réponse

  18. A l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur de la nappe du vibreur pour l'enlever de sa prise sur la carte mère. A l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur de la nappe du vibreur pour l'enlever de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • A l'aide de l'extrémité plate d'une spatule (spudger), faites levier sur le connecteur de la nappe du vibreur pour l'enlever de sa prise sur la carte mère.

    Both on my original and on my replacement, there was adhesive on the underside of this connector and it blended in with the color of the speaker (instead of being gray, as in the photo), so that it looked like it was attached to the speaker itself. In reality, it is part of the lightning connector and headphone jack assembly that is being replaced and that is stuck to the case (cf. steps 34–38). If yours is similar, go ahead and peel it off of the top of the speaker now, and the speaker will come right out when you get to that step.

    grabauski - Réponse

  19. Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le câble d'interconnexion de l'antenne de sa prise sur la carte mère.
    • Utilisez la pointe d'une spatule (spudger) pour déconnecter le câble d'interconnexion de l'antenne de sa prise sur la carte mère.

  20. Saisissez le câble d'interconnexion de l'antenne à l'aide de pincettes, et retirez le soigneusement de son canal sur l'ensemble vibreur. Saisissez le câble d'interconnexion de l'antenne à l'aide de pincettes, et retirez le soigneusement de son canal sur l'ensemble vibreur.
    • Saisissez le câble d'interconnexion de l'antenne à l'aide de pincettes, et retirez le soigneusement de son canal sur l'ensemble vibreur.

  21. Retirez les deux vis cruciformes #00 de 2,5 mm fixant le vibreur au boîtier arrière.
    • Retirez les deux vis cruciformes #00 de 2,5 mm fixant le vibreur au boîtier arrière.

    These two screws are stuck on my phone. Does anyone have any suggestions for loosening them. The heads are becoming stripped the more i try to take them out. I appreciate any suggestions

    tony aviles - Réponse

    if you have some spare crummy screwdrivers - like the kind that come with the replacement screens - you can try supergluing it. You just have to be super careful and not get glue anywhere else. make sure you have the screwdriver set in the screw as snugly as possible and let it sit a day or two before you gently try to unscrew it. You can google that method.

    Sarah Ybarra - Réponse

    There's a few common methods for this issue.First let me say that not all the screw heads are the EXACT SAME SIZE.You strip the screws when you use a driver that is too small so let's get that out of the way first so that you don't have this problem in the future.

    Now,Method one: use a rubberband

    Method two: A brass Penelope or the higher end kind,Not the little black ones that come in common kits but the ones that come with slightly better kits for example they are usually orange.You must first try constant firm very firm that is,pressure when extracting.You want to basically gouge a pentelope head into the screw,if head on fails then go to an angle after that.Be extremely careful with this method as it's better than the rubberband and I find it's always worked for me,You gotta remain careful when doing this or you might end up slipping and causing catastrophic damage to the board.

    GoodLuck

    Vegeta Barrett - Réponse

  22. Retirez le vibreur de l'iPhone.
    • Retirez le vibreur de l'iPhone.

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les étapes dans l'ordre inverse.

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4 commentaires

Was fantastic in helping me fix my phone

cjprzy126 - Réponse

Do you have to remove the screen completely? Or can you just hold it at a 90 degree angle?

robinvanzutphen11 - Réponse

You can hold it open at 90 degrees if you like. Prop the display open, disconnect the battery, and then skip on down to the vibrator section.

Jeff Suovanen -

Did anyone come across the vibrator button switch not functioning after replacing the LCD screen & vibrator? It was working for a second, and after a few more tries, it stopped. It doesn’t even register that the switch is functioning either (you don’t get the quick image on the screen).

(iPhone 6 Plus)

CHARLES ALMERO - Réponse

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