Introduction
Mettez à niveau votre disque dur pour gagner plus d'espace de stockage !
Ce dont vous avez besoin
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Dévissez les deux vis Phillips qui maintiennent la trappe d'accès de l'iMac.
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Retirez la trappe d'accès de l'iMac
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Retirez les quatre vis suivantes :
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Trois vis Torx de 6 mm
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Une vis Torx de 8 mm
8mm screw is 2nd from left - useful when reassembly
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Retournez votre iMac et placez-le couché vers le bas sur une surface plane.
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Pour enlever le cache avant de l'iMac, il faut faire plusieurs choses simultanément :
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Utilisez vos pouces pour appuyer sur les dispositifs de RAM et maintenir l'iMac vers le bas.
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Utilisez vos index pour tirer le petit module de matériau sur le cache avant vers vous.
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Tirez le cache avant avec vos index.
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Une fois que le petit module de matériau est dégagé des dispositifs de RAM, soulevez le cache avant par son bord inférieur juste assez pour dégager le bord inférieur du boîter arrière.
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Insérez une carte en plastique dans le coin de la fente d'aération en haut du boîtier arrière.
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Poussez la carte vers le haut de l'iMac pour ouvrir les crochets du cache avant.
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Retirez le cache avant de la coque arrière.
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Répétez ce processus pour l'autre côté du cache avant.
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Si vous n'arrivez pas à détacher le cache, essayez d'appuyer sur le bord inférieur pour le faire rentrer dans le boîtier arrière et répétez le processus d'ouverture.
Apple uses a powerful magnet to release these latches, but the official tool is not available. If you have access to a few failed hard drives, you can take out the magnets from those, and stack them up to have a magnet strong enough to easily open these latches.
Simply place the magnet on an upper corner of the machine, and when you hear a click, gently pull the corner of the front case forward. Repeat the process for the other upper corner. Use care not to pull on the iSight cables.
Note: Use care when handling the hard drive magnets, they are powerful, and you don't want them to snap together on your fingers. OUCH!
You can use a credit card. Mine survived, though it did get a little bent.
I used two credit cards for extra thickness and the latches released very easily.
The magnetic latches are about 2-3 cm from the left and right edges right at the top edge of the case. I just ran a rare-earth magnet over the from of the bezel in this area. You can hear it click when it disengages. RadioShack has these kind of magnets for $3, the call them "super magnets".
This was a nuisance. Had to really move the card around to get it to finally release.
Be very careful not to damage the metal clips with a credit card. My iMac was very stubborn and I ended up bending the clips in a way they cannot be bent back. The clips do still work and the front bezel does still go back on, however it no longer sits flush with the back of the iMac.
The double credit card worked for me. Have to be persistent. It's a very light latch, no force needed or anything, or any click when it releases.
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Posez votre iMac sur une table.
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Soulevez le cache avant à partir de son bord inférieur et faites-la pivoter pour l'éloigner du reste de votre iMac, en faisant attention aux dispositifs de RAM susceptibles de rester accrochés.
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Posez le cache avant au-dessus du reste de l'iMac.
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Si nécessaire, retirez le morceau de ruban adhésif kapton (vous pouvez le jeter sans problèmes) enroulé autour des câbles du microphone et de la caméra.
I was able to skip Steps 6 & 7 entirely. The microphone and camera cables had enough slack to flip the front cover off and lie it flat above the rest of the computer.
Step 4 is completely unnessecary. Just lift the bezel up and wiggle it until the metal clips let go. Then lift the bezel straight up.
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Débranchez les câbles de la caméra et du microphone.
Make sure the white wire is on the same side of both parts of the connector before reconnecting.
It is possible to reconnect the microphone cable in the wrong/reversed orientation with the connector. The microphone will still work but will be muted and result in a "tinny" sound on the receiver's end.
Can anyone ID these connectors (at least the camera connector) so that I may make an extension (to move the camera out and re-house it myself). I probably have the gear to do the mic already.
Is the camera connector some standard I can order M & F versions online to terminate to an extension cable?
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Le câble de inverseur sur l'iMac de 24 pouces part vers la gauche.
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Tirez le connecteur du câble de l'inverseur tout droit hors de sa prise sur la carte mère.
The inverter connector had a different location for me. It was situated next to the top left corner of the right speaker, just under the display. I didn't figure this out until I actually lifted the display off the computer.
I couldnt get this cable off, so I skipped this step. If you have this problem, just proceed; when you get to step 13, lift the display carefully as this cable will still be attached. You'll now easily be able to grip the connector and remove it.
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Retirez le ruban EMI en aluminium des deux bords verticaux de l'écran.
The above note sounds as if one should peel the aluminum-foil colored tape back from the frame. Do NOT do this; instead, peel the BLACK-colored aluminum tape back from the display frame to reveal the crevice between the display and the case and the mounting screws you are about to remove.
I didn't actually need to peel anything at all. The screws would have been visible had I looked more carefully.
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Retirez les quatre vis Torx T10 de 8 mm, à gros filetage et à tête épaisse de 2 mm, fixant l'écran sur le boîtier arrière.
If you really want to tackle it without proper tools: with a non-magnetised thin torx loosen the screw till its ready to come out, then wrap a little bit of duct tape (sticky side out) around the head of a spare thin screwdriver, gently push the duct taped screwdriver on top of the loosened screw. The magic tape will lift the screws out.
When re-assembling, it's also a good way to fish out the screws that missed the holes completely when your expert fingers skills are classed as clumsy.
You must have a magnetized Torx 10, 2 to 3 inches in length to safely get these screws out. Fortunately if you have the T10 you can magnetize it with your iMac.
Inside the front bezel are two magnets that hold your apple remote to the case, simply tap the T10 to the larger magnet 3 or 4 times and test it's strength in holding a weighty screw. You are good to go. I did this and the scary lose a screw into the iMac was diminished with a firm hold in both removal and install.
If you don't have a magnetic screwdriver or they are aluminum screws, you can use this old mechanics tip: Use a small piece of paper or celophane tape on the head of the screw, then press the screwdriver into it, this creates a nice snug hold so you can reinstall the screws.
I was able to slightly bend the plastic case to get my driver to seat. This was the most challenging part of the teardown and reassembly because I did not have the proper tool.
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Soulevez l'écran par son bord inférieur et tirez-le vers vous pour retirer le blindage électromagnétique attaché à son bord supérieur.
Steps 14 & 15; If you remove the top screw, and just loosen the bottom screw you can rotate the optical drive clip out of the way, tighten it, then screw the top screw back in to hold the logic board down for later trying to remove the connector. You also save three more parts kicking around on the desktop.
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Dégagez le faisceau de câbles d'alimentation coincé derrière le support du disque dur.
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Retirez le connecteur du capteur thermique de disque dur de sa prise sur la carte mère.
I think there is no need to mess whit the connector. just peel it off and glue it on. the connector is very week.
thanks for ever ifixit!
My thermal sensor was magnetised. I just pulled it off my old HD and put it on my new one. It sticks perfectly to the metal casing.
Just in case anyone wants to know why this is an issue. 😊
The sensor on the hard drive is there to send a signal to the logic board so it knows the hard drive isn’t running too hot.
Apple moved this sensor into the hard drive on some later models of the iMac. Removing these drives and replacing them with a standard non-Apple certified drive causes the logic board to not get a temperature sensor reading which in turn causes the panicked logic board to ramp up the Fan to the highest possible speed.
The iMac normally boots but with the fan on max. speed makes a lot of noise. There are external sensors available for this case so you can add whatever hard drive you like.
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Appuyez sur le support du disque dur vers le bas pour sortir du boîtier arrière, puis faites pivoter le haut du disque dur vers vous.
I was applying a considerable amount of force and was not getting anywhere and I was afraid it was going to suddenly release and the resulting jerk would break something else. I noticed that all I was trying to do is get a plastic tap to go past a metal plate. There was plenty of room with no other components around so I stuck a medium screw driver behind the plastic latch and applied a small amount of pressure and it unlatched very nicely. I pried on one side and then the other to release it on both sides. For me this method worked a lot better.
I also struggled trying to get the bracket loose by pressing down. I finally took FlyingMonkey's suggestion about the screwdriver and it came right off.
I too was afraid I would break the bracket. I removed the screws that held the bracket to the hard drive. This allowed the hard drive and bracket to come right out.
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Insérez un spudger entre les connecteurs SATA et faites-le pivoter pour séparer le connecteur du disque dur.
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Déconnectez les deux connecteurs SATA.
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Retirez les deux vis T8 Torx fixant le support du disque dur sur le disque dur.
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Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
Pour réassembler votre appareil, suivez ces instructions dans l'ordre inverse.
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19 commentaires
It was a fun way to spend a sunday! We didn't have a magnetic screwdriver so we used a glue stick and dipped our screwdriver in the "goop" and used it to secure the screws to the driver for the deep screw section. Fun stuff!
Thanks to this guide and a RAM upgrade my imac has at least a couple more years left on it. I did not disconnect the front bezel or LCD I just laid them aside (the LCD had to be propped up a little to prevent pulling). The scariest part was removing the HD heat sensor. I just went really slow and most of the glue was still attached to the sensor so that all I had to do was press it against the new HD and it affixed just fine. One week later and everything is working great! Magnetizing the Torx driver with the remote magnet is a great idea. I purchased a stand alone magnetizer/demagnetizer myself though.
Very handy guide. I just replaced the internal drive on my iMac and it's working well. Here also is a pretty good video of the procedure:
Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShY8zuT-w...
Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjsIU1XEk...
Thanks to this very good description. Now these Mac has 10x more HD-Size than before! (1.5 TB). I wrote this from the IMAc so that you see: it works fine!
Thank you!
Dirk
Anyone else have really loud fans running all the time after upgrading hard drive?
I put in a 320 GB Seagate 7200, and I now have to turn Pandora up quite a bit to drown out the fan noise.
Suggestions? Workarounds?
Hi Andrew. I generally prefer to work at software rather than the hardware rather. If I am working at the hardware level, I just don’t tell my wife haa haa lol!! :)
Buuuuut. As far as tips. If you are willing to open that computer up. It may be worth checking to see if the CPU or any of the vents are getting dust build up in them.
The next general point to bear in mind. It does seem like 7200 RPM HDDs are noisier than their 5200 RPM counterparts. For some reason, it seem more noise equals more speed. If you are puzzled and want to know more detailed info than OS X provides. Maybe try looking into an option for downloading software like TechTool Pro. It can warn of general problems with battery, CPU etc. So in summary. Depending on your personal budget. Consider an SSD. The program from Micromat. Or maybe it is just a problem that needs to be endured. Sorry if it is the last one mate!
Hope one of those pointers help.
Regards
Bryce
I just successfully replaced my dead hard drive with a WD Caviar Green drive in ~4 hours (minus a trip to Ace for a narrower T10 driver), despite being terrified. As a novice, this was difficult, especially removing the front bezel. That took me 30 minutes of trials. I had to use a lot of force in removing that and the hard drive. A couple of times my computer differed from the guide (I have a 2 GHz intel core 2 duo white imac). For instance, my hard drive temperature sensor looked completely different and wasn't labeled, and some other connections were in completely different places than in the demo, so I had to hunt around. I also think I messed up the hard drive thermal sensor when I put it on the new drive because my fan was running at high speed after this, like Andrew describes above. I downloaded hddfancontrol and that instantly fixed it. It took 10 seconds to install and then the fan noise stopped. Regardless, the guide was great-I had no business even trying this but it worked!
Now I can't put the hard drive back in :-((
Excellent guide which gave me the confidence to give it a try - unlike the YouTube videos which range from comical to plain scary. I didn't have a thin enough T10 screwdriver but managed OK using one with a flat blade which I magnetised first. Only problem came when I tried to install Snow Leopard. When I tried to format my new 1Tb drive Disk Utility said the drive was 7.3 Tb and refused to format the disk, citing input/output errors. I assumed that I had screwed up somewhere and went through the whole process again, only to get the same result. I decided to install the OS to an external drive as a temporary measure and found that the disk was then correctly recognised. After that, everything was plain sailing. If you aren't too sure, give it a try and save some money. Just be painstaking and patient. I'm a Silver Surfer so with no IT skills to speak of. If I can do it, so can you. Many thanks.
I just replaced the HDD in my 7 1/2 year old iMac. Took about 3 hours total from dead WD Caviar 160GB to Seagate Barracuda 1TB including the full restore from Time Capsule (also a Seagate). Went really well, considering I've never changed a drive in a Mac. Have done so on Win PC's that had a lot more room inside of them. Following the instructions here wasn't terribly difficult, though some things were a bit different than the photos showed. Was also surprised that the display was made by LG/Philips, but not surprised by all of the Foxconn parts inside! Overall not difficult, but did have one minor problem that I discovered a day later - it wouldn't past POST, and found out that one of the two memory cards was slightly out of place upon reassembly. Easy fix, and not having any issues with high speed fan running, at least as of yet. Also found a free app that acts very similar to HDD Fan Control.
Did this job in about 3 hours. The hardest part was getting all that tape loose. Great guide!
Great guide. Helped me started in the first step of reviving a quiet machine. Cheers!
Perfect tutorial. Nicely described steps to follow. I did it everithing for less two hours.
thanks but my cd can’t eject in the room please help me my email is bicledoja@gmail.com
Worked great! Replaced an old 500GB HDD with 1TB SSD/HDD Hybrid in my parents’ iMac Late 2006. It’s working faster now and no longer rainbow wheels when I try to open 2 applications at once. Longest part of this process was backing up the data/reinstalling the OS. I recommend Carbon Copy Cloner. And as others have mentioned, step 12 was difficult because I did not have a skinny magnetized screwdriver and had to do some hacky workaround. Following this guide took me about 1.5hrs.
I used this to remove a drive I wanted to get my old data from so I did not have to to the reassemble but this was still very helpful. Thanks!
That is a really, really unnecessarily complex way of fitting a new hard drive. Thanks, but no thanks...
annax - Réponse
annax, if you can suggest a simpler way we're all ears!
Jake Simmonds - Réponse
I found this guide to be very useful. The installation was super easy, especially since I've never opened my iMac before. I was able to skip steps 6, 7, 9, 10 and 14. Wish I had one of those long skinny magnetic torx screwdriver's though. I had to use duct tape to hold the screws on the end of the bit for step 12.
I used this opportunity to vacuum out the dust with mini attachments. Much needed after 3 years ;0)
Awesome site!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and saving me time and $$$!
Eric Patten - Réponse
Yes I did it! thanks for this very good manual
Philippe d Anfray - Réponse