Introduction

Utilisez ce guide pour remplacer l'écran endommagé de votre iMac.

Retournez votre iMac sur une table en plaçant le bas de l'appareil face à vous.
  • Retournez votre iMac sur une table en plaçant le bas de l'appareil face à vous.

  • Desserrez l'unique vis Phillips au centre de la trappe d'accès.

  • Cette vis est captive dans la trappe d'accès.

  • Retirez la trappe d'accès de votre iMac.

The grid won't fall off by itself. You'll have to help it. Use the smallest screwdriver you have; the Torx 6 worked fine for me. It should enter in one of the many holes composing the grid. Use it as a lever to ploy the grid a little bit. You may catch it with your fingers and that's it.

Be carefull not to damage the hole by a too strong leverage.

Laurent - Réponse

much more safer to use duct tape, instead of torx 6. (glue it along the length of the grid and pull). it will loose instantly and smooth;)

Hofmann78rus - Réponse

Anyone know a guide to replace the plastic piece this screw connects to? I accidentally forgot this step - went to remove the front bezel and bent the plastic piece the access door connects to.

Jason Augustin - Réponse

La vitre est fixée au cadre avant par quatorze aimants répartis sur son périmètre.
  • La vitre est fixée au cadre avant par quatorze aimants répartis sur son périmètre.

  • Collez une ventouse au niveau d'un angle de la vitre et une autre ventouse à l'angle opposé.

  • Pour fixer une ventouse, commencez par la positionner avec la poignée mobile parallèle à la surface de la vitre. Tout en maintenant légèrement la ventouse contre la vitre, soulevez la poignée mobile jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit parallèle à l'autre poignée.

  • Si la ventouse n'adhère pas à la vitre, essayez de les nettoyer, l'une et l'autre, à l'aide d'un solvant doux.

A good alternative to the two heavy duty suction cups is a regular household plunger.

Russell Knight - Réponse

Also, 2" wide packing tape. Maybe a 6 or 8" piece, folded in the middle to give you say, a 1-2" "handle". Make a pair of these. They look like a capital T but with a short vertical part (the handle), and a wide top I the sticky wings). Get the good 3M tape, it's strong, and it peels off clean without leaving any glue from the screen.

Barry Coyle - Réponse

for me one household plunger did the trick!

Ronald Huygen - Réponse

  • Soulevez délicatement la vitre de l'iMac.

  • Plusieurs broches de positionnement sont disposées sur le pourtour de la vitre. Pour éviter de les arracher, veillez à soulever la vitre bien droit lors de la dépose.

  • Nettoyez soigneusement l'écran LCD et la face intérieure de la vitre avant le remontage, car la présence de poussière ou d'empreintes digitales pourrait gêner la visibilité une fois l'appareil sous tension.

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  • Retirez les 12 vis suivantes par lesquelles le cadre avant est fixé au boîtier arrière :

    • Huit vis Torx T8 13 mm.

    • Quatre vis Torx T8 25 mm.

  • Sur la version 24" de l'iMac Intel modèle A1225, les deux vis centrales du bas sont longues (26 mm), les quatre vis situées sur les côtés (deux à gauche, deux à droite) sont de taille moyenne (18 mm) et les six autres vis (quatre en haut, deux dans les angles inférieurs) sont courtes (14 mm).

I would strongly suggest taping the screws down on a piece of paper towel or cloth in the same order you take them out, as there are different lengths in no particular order and they don't all fit into just any hole. Unless you keep track of which hole each screw belongs, there is no other way of knowing. I stress taping because I didn't tape mine down and after bumping the table I was working on they scattered, leaving me to guess.

Len - Réponse

Even better, use an ice cube tray to keep the screws from each step together.

maccentric - Réponse

how about using the magnets near the screws to keep their positions?

Andy - Réponse

I use an 18 count egg carton (or two) and label each egg slot with a Sharpie. Works great.

airira - Réponse

As a rule with iFixit repairs, for years I've been printing the guides, applying scotch magic tape near each picture (which allows me to reutilise the paper prints in the future), neatly putting the appropriate screw next to their picture and taping them down with scotch magic tape.

Even if I have to wait for spare parts, this allows me to neatly file the guide + screws in a copy safe and a binder (or in a cardboard filing box together with the rest of the parts) for later reassembly. Hardly any mistake possible...

Bart Van Dessel - Réponse

I think the caption on the picture is wrong here for 24" iMacs - it says: "On the 24" iMac Intel Model A1225, the bottom center two screws are long (26mm), four on sides (two left, two right) are medium (18mm), and the remaining 6 (four top, two bottom corners) are short (14mm)." I think actually bottom centre two are long, then all the rest are medium apart from the two either side of the CD/DVD drive

HBloomfield - Réponse

I print out the steps. Get a roll of scotch tape ready. Every screw, or set of screws I remove, I lay on some tape, and then tape them to the number on the directions. Then you have each screw labeled, with direction, and in order, or reassembly. Just working backwards in the directions.

Barry Coyle - Réponse

  • Le cadre avant est toujours relié à l'iMac par le câble du microphone.

  • Soulevez avec précaution le bord supérieur du cadre avant hors du boîtier arrière.

  • Après avoir libéré le bord supérieur du cadre avant, faites pivoter ce dernier vers le support et sortez-le du boîtier arrière.

  • Pour accéder au reste de l'ordinateur, déplacez le cadre avant en le faisant pivoter et posez-le au-dessus du bord supérieur de l'iMac.

  • Lors du remontage du cadre avant, commencez par placer le bord inférieur au niveau du boitier arrière, puis abaissez le bord supérieur dans l'iMac.

Contrary to the pictures, to lift the front bezel off, start at top of the computer screen lifting up while apply a little bit of pressure to the foam in the upper corners of the screen. This will give you the leverage needed to get the bezel to lift up. Be careful to not pull to fast, as the camera cable is still attached.

armand - Réponse

you'll need to add this step in all the other tutorials about iMac 20" EMC 2210, where it is missing ; they all jump from step 5 to step 6, which is a little annoying...

Armel h - Réponse

Easy way to remove bezel, insert the longest screws a quarter turn into the two top most edge screw slots. Use the screws as anchors to press against as you pull the bezel toward you. Then a simple twist to remove the screws, and the rest of the bezel comes off easy.

armand - Réponse

  • Débranchez le connecteur du câble du microphone, en retirant la bande adhésive si nécessaire.

  • Pour installer correctement le cadre avant, enfoncez le câble du microphone et le connecteur dans l'espace vide à côté du support vidéo.

During reinstallation of the LCD panel, be sure that the iSight microphone cable does not become trapped behind the panel.

Ocean Yamaha - Réponse

I actually didn't have to remove the cable. With the iMac laying on its back, just rotate the front bezel (bottom edge rotating around top edge) so that it's laying upside down, above the iMac. When reassembling, just rotate back into place.

Brian Tsai - Réponse

  • Retirez les deux vis Torx T6 5,3 mm du connecteur LCD.

  • Tenez fermement la languette sur le dessus du connecteur et tirez-la vers le haut pour sortir le connecteur de la prise.

    • Veillez à tirer la languette, et pas le câble du connecteur.

remove the 8 screws (torx) that is holding the screen.

Gideon Lamprecht - Réponse

  • Retirez les huit vis Torx T8 qui fixent l'écran au boîtier arrière.

  • L'iMac que vous visualisez sur la photo est le 20'', mais l'emplacement des vis devrait être à peu près le même.

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  • Placez une main de chaque côté en dessous de l'écran et soulevez-le suffisamment pour pouvoir accéder aux connecteurs à l'intérieur de l'ordinateur.

    • N'essayez pas de retirer complètement l'écran, car il est encore relié au reste de l'appareil.

  • Tout en tenant l'écran d'une main, localisez et débranchez le câble du capteur thermique de l'écran de son connecteur.

Make sure you reconnect the cable for the thermal display sensor during reassembly. If you don't, the fans will be running at max speed and you might think it is from the drive thermal sensor afterwards (which is an issue some users have and which can be fixed in software).

jnavarro - Réponse

I had great success with just propping the top edge of the LCD display up with a box about 8" long. By doing so, I didn't have to remove the thermal sensor wire or the power cable.

Brian Tsai - Réponse

The thermal sensor connection is more of a pain than it seems. It's a cramped area and it's not clear when it's properly plugged in during reassembly. It may *feel* like it's in, but then pops free at the slightest touch. I guarantee that if as soon as you start up, fans running max speed instantly is the indication this is the issue. If you're ok with that, then fine, but otherwise, you'll have to pull it apart again.

Sheldon Carpenter - Réponse

Unplugging the thermal sensor connection is easier said than done, but using the spudger here is very

helpful

Peter Bull - Réponse

  • Tout en continuant de tenir l'écran, appliquez une pression vers le bas sur le connecteur du câble d'alimentation avec deux doigts afin de le débrancher de sa prise.

  • Faites attention de ne pas toucher le dessus de l'alimentation pour ne pas prendre de décharges électriques qui peuvent être engendrées par les condensateurs.

When putting this back together it can be extremely difficult to plug this cable back in without removing a guard that is held in by 2x T8 Torx screws just next to it.

Russell Knight - Réponse

I will suggest to remove the other end of the socket which is connected to the display panel. You can never imagine how difficult it will be to plug in on the main body, unless you know well about it.

Michael Shi - Réponse

I didn't realize these comments were HERE? Poor web design if you can't see comments in an obvious way. Step 10 will cause you the most trouble in reassembling the computer and I knew it as soon as I popped that connector out off the board. Its really f*cking hard to get that connector hooked back up in the way it should be and I have small hands. I managed to get it at least partly pushed in after several tries. Over all it took over half an hour to get it back in there right and scared the !@#$ out of me because I didn't think I could get it done. Those stupid little plastic things won't help you here, the connector really needs to be pushed hard to get it back in. I ended up using a big beefy screw driver for slotted screws, about a ten inch long screwdriver. I used the blade on each end of the connector and was able to give it a good hard push on one end, then pushed on the other end, slowly rocking the connector back into full flush contact. Be real careful you aren't pushing on the ribbon at all.

sdpickups - Réponse

Having done this procedure 6+ times now, I can tell you it's much easier if, instead of holding the panel up by the "bottom" as illustrated in the guide, instead raise it by the "left" side. It gives you (me) much more room to get fingers behind the connector.

May have been obvious to some, but this little adjustment didn't jump out at me until the 2nd or 3rd rebuild.

Jeff Dickson - Réponse

There are four screws holding the power supply in place. Two different thread types so make note! Then lifting the power supply enough to easily plug the power cable back in is MUCH less of a problem. Then put the four screws back and proceed on.

racecornell - Réponse

That´s exactly how I managed reassembling this connector very easily: Open the four screws, that hold down the platine and then lift it up a little bit.

info -

It isn't that hard if you start by hold the display panel up perpendicular to the case on the side of this challenging connector. From here you'll be able to connect the cable, then follow through with the two other connectors (two screws on the last one). Worked great for me.

cjrocksu2005 - Réponse

By far this was the most difficult cable to reconnect. I enlisted a second person to hold the display after I unscrewed the power supply (Torx 10, 4 screws) and was able to give my fingers adequate room to securely reattach it. There's no need to do this when disconnecting the power supply, but it would take more nimble fingers than mine to reattach it without loosening the power supply.

Ron Lockhart - Réponse

Do not remove this cable....! Too hard to get back there... I had to screw and lift up the whole platine to get the f**** cable back there....

EASIER IS:

# just remove the mic-cable (step6),the Thermal sensor (step9) the LCD-connector (step 10)...

# then let someone lift up (works also alone) the screen on the right side (there where Superdrive is)...

# remove Drive and Replace!!!!!

# Reconnect the easy cables....

anselm pavlik - Réponse

agree! this cable is really tricky ...

Johann -

This step is TOTALLY UNNECESSARY on a 24" model!

Skip it; you have enough space to lift the panel.

Robert MacLeay - Réponse

You don't need to do this step at all - you can leave the panel connected to the circuit board while you replace the hard drive. I did this while replacing the drive on my 24" iMac, just resting the panel on a box I had put next to the iMac on my desk, so that the panel stayed at the same level but was just moved and rotated sideways, with the cable still connected.

HBloomfield - Réponse

I had great success with just propping the top edge of the LCD display up with a box about 8" long. By doing so, I didn't have to remove the thermal sensor wire or the power cable.

The power cable actually has a fair amount of play in it IF you peel back the thin black tape that affixes it to the LCD panel side to expose the power cable connector on the LCD side.

Brian Tsai - Réponse

Note: SERIOUSLY:

- Disconnect the temp sensor from the iMac

- Lift up the screen from the RIGHT side (as if the iMac were standing up, facing you) to a vertical position

- Peel back the tape on the back of the LCD to expose the power supply connection

- Pull the connection from the LCD

- Attachment is the reverse

MUCH easier

Sheldon Carpenter - Réponse

  • Soulevez et retirez l'écran de l'appareil.

There is (what it looks like) a display ribbon cable attached that is hard to disconnect.

Sasmito Adibowo - Réponse

Conclusion

Pour remonter votre appareil, suivez les mêmes instructions dans l'ordre inverse.

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how did you guys go about replacing the black tape that covers the cable on the back of the lcd ?

Francesca Ratto - Réponse

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