Introduction
Note: this is a complete guide for replacing a plain front panel. If you have a Front Panel Assembly replacement part, stop before removing the home button from your old front panel, and reverse the steps to install your new front panel assembly.
Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the cellular model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Outil utilisé dans cette étape :Safety Glasses$3.19
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Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.
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Let the bag sit on the iPad for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the front panel.
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There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.
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Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.
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Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" (75 mm) from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.
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Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.
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The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.
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The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.
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The front panel ribbon cables are connected beneath the LCD. To access them, you'll need to temporarily flip the LCD over and out of the way.
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Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.
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Set the LCD face down on the front panel.
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully flip up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets.
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Lift the LCD from its long edge farthest from the digitizer cable and gently flip it toward the rear case—like closing a book.
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While holding the LCD up, gently slide the front panel away from the iPad. Be careful not to snag the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD.
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Set the LCD back into the body for safekeeping.
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Place the iOpener in the microwave and microwave it for thirty seconds on the highest power setting.
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Place the iOpener over the home button on the front edge of the display.
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Follow the iOpener heating instructions described in the iOpener heating section at the beginning of this guide.
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To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 2 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strip guide to reattach the front panel.
To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 2 CDMA Front Panel Adhesive strip guide to reattach the front panel.
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10 commentaires
I would recommend that in cases of replacing shattered screens, that you tape the front panel glass with clear packing tape using overlapping strips, before you begin. This helps to ensure that the panel stays intact, and reduces the chances of puncturing the digitizing layer, and damaging the LCD upon removal.
You want to use clear tape so that you are able to see how any of the glass remnants are shifting during removal.
i used a hair drier instead of the microwave thing and it worked fine, also the replacement kit i bought on ebay for $22 did not come with the new adhesive, so be sure you get everything you need if not ordering from ifixit. I did get 2 small smudges on the LCD, these came off very easily with a q-tip and rubbing alcohol. My glass was shattered completely, so the guitar pick was of little use. I mostly had to scrape the tiny shards off with a 3/32" standard screwdriver. superb guide!!
Very good Guide, I wanted to thank you very much. I didn't have to buy a new iPad - saved a lot of money here!! Keep up the good work folks.
Note to self: Broken screens suck with these. Once you remove all the little pieces and get through that, it's very easy to pull apart from there. Like other people said, use tape to prevent glass pieces from flying at you and to keep the glass together during the prying process. Don't need to damage the product or your eyes.
this is a great guide !!! i just want to share a little trick with getting the glass off with the right temps. Heat guns are good but keep the temp no higher the the 150 to the 200 C mark max at about 3 to 6 inches away and never directly on the lcd as it might leave a patch. the iOpener is a great tool aswell. but the problem with both the heat gun and other heat type tool is that they tens not to be consistent through out, like one side is hot but the other has now gone cold. Try to find a sunny day, turn the iPad off and just leave the iPad in a window under the sunlight, it does get hot enough and not only that, the heat is uniform throughout the device so it easier to remove the glass. Good luck
