There should be a small blade on the underside of the debris shield that cuts the string when it is let out. Is this blade missing? broken? clogged? dull? If missing, search Echo part # Echo 69901644330

I believe this mower has a primer ball on the carb. I presume you have pushed it (at least the three times mentioned in the manual (and you can or can't feel whether it's picking up any gas). If it's not picking up gas when pushed, check for obstruction or kinks in the fuel line from the fuel tank to the carb. Have you tried removing the air filter, squirting a little fuel into the throat of the carb, replacing the air filter and then trying to start it? Sometimes that's all they need to get primed. If it starts, then dies, try it one more time. If that doesn't work, I'd look for an air leak in the fuel line (it may be drawing air instead of fuel). When using this method (you may alternatively squirt a little fuel directly into the spark plug hole and replace the spark plug), if the engine fails to fire at all, you're probably looking at no spark. Just be careful when spilling fuel! Do this outside!

This is likely to be an adjustment to the shift mechanism. If you follow the shift lever back to the rear end, you will find it is attached by a hairpin clip or cotter pin to a ferrule that, when unclipped, can be turned in or out. I would try adjusting that ferrule one turn at a time and see if the condition improves or worsens. Obviously, if it worsens, begin turning it the opposite way. Here's a view of this part of the mower. The ferrule is part # 15 in the picture.

Check the fluid level in the power steering pump.

You say that you're "losing pressure." I presume there is some pressure at first and it comes and goes. Some possibilities are: (1) Air in the pump. When you connect the water to the washer, be sure there is water flowing to it (no kinks in the hose, water is turned on). Without starting the washer, hold down the trigger on the wand until water sprays out in a steady stream (no air spurts!). Only then should the washer be started. (2) Occasionally, there might be air in the supply hose which, when it reaches the pump, may cause a loss of pressure. If this lasts for more than 10-15 seconds, I would shut off the pump and bleed more air as above. (3) It may be something in the gun assembly. Here's a link to a parts supplier that may have some useful info for you ; https://www.ereplacementparts.com/mitm-cba35040mvb-industrial-cold-water-parts-c-163358_163359_163565.html (4) If none of these steps work, and you have ever run the washer without water or you have stored the the washer in an unheated area where...

If it smells like burning rubber, it is probably slippage in the drive belt. This can be caused by debris preventing the brushroll from spinning freely or the belt may just be stretched and need replacement. Either way, you'll have to inspect the brushroll and belt. Instructions for that are in the owners manual for your machine on (I believe) pages 9-10. Here's a link if you need to access this manual online. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/389175...-Fh50.html#manual

I had this problem. I managed to disassemble the reservoir to inspect the float mechanism only to find that the mechanism, being quite flimsy, had been broken, probably by my rough attempts to clean the area by sticking a sponge in the gap inside the reservoir. If you want to take the thing apart, turn the reservoir upside down. There are two Phillips head screws at the bottom of those two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. Once you get them out, turn the reservoir over (right side up) and find the plastic 'clips' under the rim of the reservoir and gently pry the top of the reservoir loose from the main body. You should have access to the float mechanism at this point. Mine was unfixable so I bought a new reservoir from Cuisinart for $35. Love the coffeemaker! Here's a link: https://www.cuisinart.com/coffee-on-demand-12-cup-programmable-coffee-maker/DCC-3000P1.html?cgid=partsaccessories_coffee... Good luck!

You could try a pool liner patch. Normally that patch would go on the inside of the pool but it might be worth a shot. Failing that, you could try a Flex-Seal product. Be sure to remove the needle first.

I had this problem with my Whirlpool WFW8300 washer. Replacing the shock absorbers underneath and the springs on top did not help. On mine, the display panel would flash on and off during the (now violent) spin cycle as well. I had the top off as you did. On mine, there was a plastic (for lack of a better term) junction box at the top right (facing the machine) front corner with a plug having as I recall seven wires (six white and one black) going into the rear of it. I noted that one of the white wires was actually broken off of the plug. Internet wisdom said that this couldn't be fixed and that the entire front display panel and wiring harness would need to be replaced (at great expense!) I also noted that the plastic box that the plug attached to was apparently broken off of its mount on the side of the washer and was kinda floating free in there. Repairing and remounting the plastic box (attached to the display) was fairly straightforward with some 5 minute epoxy and a piece or two of scrap plastic...

I don't think you can use an Li-ion battery in this drill. It needs Ni-Cads. If you do an internet search for "dewalt dc970 replacement battery" you will find aftermarket replacement batteries for your drill for $20-$30. I had the same issue with an older Makita drill (which has more guts than the newer Dewalt drill) and the aftermarket batteries work fine.