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A Noid Light is a good cheap way to find out if you have an injector problem or an electronic problem. Unplug the harness from any injector, plug in the appropriate noid light and crank the engine. If the light flashes, you know the computer is driving the injector and you can focus on injector/fuel supply issues; if no flash you focus on the computer and the handful of sensors it needs to derive injector pulsewidth.
Plus d'informationNo secret, just use good tight fitting wrenches as you certainly don’t want to strip the hexes off the banjo bolts or the filter inlet/outlet. Sometimes it helps to set up your wrenches on the filter and bolt so that you can squeeze the handles together with one hand (like a pair of pliers) and rap on the bolt head with a small hammer - sometimes the shock wave helps the bolt break free. If you already got the front line disconnected, you may be able to get a better hold on the filter by applying a six-point socket to the front of the filter. In extreme cases you can even hold the banjo bolt (let its wrench wedge up against the bottom of the car) and turn the filter with a big long wrench or breaker bar.
Plus d'informationCan you try honking and follow the noise? They are usually somewhere in the front, probably between the radiator and grill bolted on to one of the radiator core supports. I think I’ve seen it not too far from the hood latch on a similar truck.
Plus d'informationA “zinging noise” is probably the starter gear not quite meshing with the flywheel’s ring gear. First make sure the battery is fully charged and does not sag too much under load. Many of these small engines don’t use a solenoid, instead they have a bendix gear that uses inertia to accomplish the same task. These types of starters are very sensitive to weak batteries. I would even try jumping it from a running car. If that doesn’t help, the next step is to turn the engine by hand about a quarter turn, then try the starter. This is to check the ring gear, most engines will always stop at the same place, so the starter usually hits the ring gear in that one place. Rotating the crank a few degrees exposes newer gear teeth to the starter. If that gets the starter to engage, or engage for most of a turn and then resume zinging, you need to replace the ring gear on the flywheel (or get used to turning it by hand a bit before hitting the starter). If you made it this far and haven’t found the problem yet, pull the...
Plus d'informationtry mouser.com or digikey.com
Plus d'informationIt looks like someone uploaded a set of dealer service manuals to ifixit (check the link just under the picture of the car). They are good manuals, but the organization is not obvious. I'd suggest you check the procedure then assess whether it is within your skills.
Plus d'informationUse the excellent guide that is found by clicking on the car model in the upper right corner of this page. Or go to this URL: 2005-2007 Ford Focus Front Brake Pad Replacement
Plus d'informationEvery Honda car I’ve seen has CV joints in the half shafts. The hub nut is usually a real beast to break loose (and staked to the axle on many models). Make a point of removing, or at least loosening, the hub nut before you start dismantling the brakes. And have an to stand on the brake pedal while you turn that nut. Without an assistant you may be able to lock the hub with a strategically applied pry bar or clamp. If the hub nut has a castle nut and cotter pin, you are lucky. If the hub nut is the type that is staked on, it will help to bend the staked in part back up before trying to loosen, this is easier said than done but I’ve had reasonable luck with pounding a small slotted screwdriver into the keyway, to create a little space, then follow with progressively larger taper punches until the staked in section of the nut sits a little bit proud of the axle threads. Alternately you could use a dremel to un-stake the nut, but that will probably take longer and might compromise the re-usability of the axle.
Plus d'informationLooking at the routing diagram for the belt, I would say the one of (a) the power steering pump, (b) the alternator, or (c) the idler pulley is mounted on an adjustable bracket. Look for the mounting bolts that are going through a slotted bracket. There also might be a 1/2" square drive hole in whichever bracket swings, if so use use that (and a breaker bar) to tension the belt.
Plus d'informationIf the oil pressure light does not come on when key on, engine not running then you have either a bad light bulb, a bad oil pressure sending unit (sensor which grounds the oil pressure light circuit when oil pressure fails), or a wire has become disconnected. The easiest troubleshooting method is to find the sending unit, disconnect and ground the wire and see if the oil pressure light comes on (assuming, of course, that the key is on and engine not running), if the light comes on while grounding the wire, but not when wire is connected to sender, replace sender then confirm light works correctly and turns off when the engine is started. If you find the sender, but no wire is attached, look around in the general area for a loose wire with the correct type of connector on it. If grounding the sender wire does not turn on the light, verify that you haven't blown the fuse for the instrument panel, and then replace the light bulb.
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Be careful that piston does not get cocked in the bore, it is possible to put the forcing screw through the piston dome if it binds. Might be safer to use the old inner pad as a push-block.
Hey! When did the new rotor arrive? And did you have to remove the caliper bridge to get at it?
If you can’t find the right height box or bucket, you may also hang the caliper from the strut spring with a bit of wire or a bungee cord. The main point is that you do not let the rubber hose support the weight of the unmounted caliper.
If you don’t have a big enough c-clamp, there is also the option to use a prybar. If you must go this route, pry between the outer pad and the rotor. Go through the middle of the caliper so that you are applying the force evenly. If you have to make room for the prybar, you can pry lightly between the ends of the pad’s backing plate and the rotor surface.
If you do have a c-clamp, the forcing screw goes against the outer pad (right in the middle where the notch in the caliper is), the fixed jaw goes against the back of the caliper. You’ll need a pretty big c-clamp.
Retracting the piston can also be done after the caliper is off, but it is usually best to do it now.
Noah Ackerman
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