Email: craig@ifixit.com | Twitter: @craigelloyd | Instagram: craigelloyd
Hey there! I'm Craig and I’m the Director of Content Operations at iFixit, overseeing the day-to-day and behind-the-scenes operations of our various content teams (guides, teardowns, videos, and the blog).
I graduated from Purdue University in 2012 with a Bachelor’s in Media and Public Communication and a minor in Media Production. I started out writing articles for the student newspaper, eventually overseeing the publication’s web content and earning a spot as an Online Pacemaker Award finalist from the Associated Collegiate Press in 2011.
After graduating, I spent seven years writing for a handful of online publications, including Lifehacker, SlashGear, Digital Trends, How-To Geek, and more.
I started at iFixit as an editorial content writer and eventually transitioned to technical writing. A few months later I took over the tech writing department and spearheaded guide creation. Now I get to oversee all of our content teams, where I play around with documents and plan things—my secret calling—but also continue to create awesome content alongside the teams.
My love of tech and repair goes back to my adolescent years when I began tinkering with the family computer as a young and naive teenager. To this day, I love getting my hands dirty with projects around the house and in the garage, and I'm a strong advocate for the DIY movement. In other words, I don't call a guy when something breaks; I am the guy! And I always encourage others to pick up some tools and take matters into their own hands.
Hello, Angel! That silver section has the adhesive to hold the ribbon cable in place, but it’s not a crucial component. If you can plug in the ribbon cable and the rail works just fine, then that’s probably good enough!
You’re right! We’ve made the change. Thank you!
It’s not necessary, but it makes it much easier to remove and replace the game card reader, since the heat sink partially covers the connector.
No adhesive required!
The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.
Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!
Yes, the digitizer is compatible with both models!
Yikes! Sorry to hear this. How did you pry with the spudger exactly? If you kept it around the top edge of the battery well then I would assume it wouldn’t damage the screen, but if you inserted the end of the spudger deeper in the battery well and used that point as the fulcrum, then I could see that putting a lot of pressure on the back of the LCD.
It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.
The battery is definitely pretty difficult to remove. It just takes time and patience! Our guide details the process: Remplacement de la batterie de la Nintendo Switch Lite
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