Because iFixit are UNSUBSTANTIATED and UNSUBSTANTIATED, and I want to be just like them. Wink. Nudge. Just kidding.
Standby output of Apple's MagSafe Power Adapters varies between models. Yes it is often said to be "6V", but that is "old knowledge" which pre-dates 45W and MagSafe 2 models. (I'll share two standby potentials which I measure: Model A1424 is around 3,15 V; Model A1435 is around 0,6 V.) I hope this little bit of knowledge will be useful to anyone, whom suspects their unit is faulty just because its output potential is not 6 volt.
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Réponse à : « I cant turn off my voice control »Also applicable to iPhone 4C (iPhone 4 CDMA). Stuffe answers this on Ask Different. "This setting seems to have been removed. Prior to 7.1 it was in: Settings > General > Passcode > Voice Dial > OFF Since 7.1 things have moved around a bit in settings, and the equivalent area would now be: Settings > Passcode … only the option is absent. Hopefully it will be returned, as my sticky home buttoned iPhone 4 is also occasionally dialling nonsense for me. So, to summarise, there seems to be no way to turn it off for iOS 7.1 on a non jailbroken iPhone." http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions...-voice-control-on-iphone-4s-ios7-1/127372#127372
Réponse à : « Can I upgrade or replace the SDD of 2017 MacBook Pro (function keys)? »No. Apple created a different formfactor for A1708 (2016 2017). It is very different from their previous (since 2013) PCIe flashdisc formfactor.
Réponse à : « How can connect my DVD player to my old Panasonic cable TV? »Pretend auxiliary video input is a channel lower than 2 and higher than 99 or 125. So use channel up/down/+/- buttons. If you keep stepping in either direction, eventually you should reach an imaginary channel named something like: AUX, LINE, VIDEO, EXT. To help you remember, think of it as “video line one” which is found next to “antenna channel 2”. I used one Panasonic television set which behaved like this: non-rf video sources were treated like a channel to which to tune, and incrementing past them rolled over to tuner channel 2.
Réponse à : « "Battery is not charging" and no light »What is wrong? If MagSafe power supply is identified as null and zero, then MacBook embedded controller does not allow charging of main battery. Open 'System Information.app', view 'Power' (subpage of 'Hardware'), look under heading 'AC Charger Information:'. For an idea of what 'AC Charger Information:' looks like, a clue as to what to look for, here is a screenshot. Pictured is a full 'Power' report; near bottom is 'AC Charger Information:'. Does your Mac report information from its power adapter, or does it display all fields as zeros? If your subject power adapter is misidentified, then it might need cleaning or repair. Inspect MagSafe plug pogo pins. If middle pogo pin is dirty or sticky, then clean it or exercise it until it operates as it should. Inspect also MagSafe socket-inlet. If middle pogo pin (in MagSafe tip) is clean and springy, and middle land (in MagSafe inlet) is clean, then MagSafe plug is at fault. How to fix it? Get a replacement MagSafe plug or cable assembly, and splice it on. If...
Réponse à : « MagSafe 2 charger 45W wire replacement issues »No, it is wrong to assume something is wrong, comparing its standby potential against a MagSafe 1 power supply. If you did measure before, then you could compare after. That wire from China is not at fault. Standby output of Apple's MagSafe Power Adapters varies between models.
Réponse à : « Power adapter working only 30 seconds after repair »What you describe seems, some overload protection is tripping. Removing and reconnecting power supply to its load (MacBook) is needless, because power supply remains in tripped / shutdown state. Substituting AC connection ("duck head" or cord) is needless, because form of AC connection is not important. 'I installed a replacement wire instead of keeping the old one.' Do you know, what kind of replacement? What specific type of MagSafe tip/plug? If your plug identifies as 60W or 85W, then it is no wonder that your 45W supply is overloaded. You can use 'System Information.app' (or 'System Profiler.app') to find your plug's identity. Open 'System Information.app', view 'Power' (subpage of 'Hardware'), look under heading 'AC Charger Information:'. What 'Wattage (W)' is reported? Addition 2018-03-03: For an idea of what 'AC Charger Information:' looks like, a clue as to what to look for, you can look at this screenshot hosted on Apple Support Communities. Pictured is a full 'Power' report section; near bottom...
Réponse à : « No Display and Repeating Charge Chime »Very unfortunately, Dylan, your 'good screen' is probably bad. Exactly what you observe (no display and repeating chime) indicates a broken or missing screen. You have my sympathy: replacing iPhone 4 front/screen assembly is onerous. Too I broke an otherwise operational screen, by bending its cable. See Wiki page: iPhone endlessly repeats the "power supply accepted" sound or vibration.
Réponse à : « Looking for replacement battery for Logitech MM50 S-0173A Speakers? »Like EKWF said (#comment229709), a Logitech mm50 battery contains a single 18650 cell. Its battery cell is soldered to a protection circuitboard, and surrounded by insulator skin (heat shrink tube). Its battery protection board connects to mainboard through three wires: black (battery negative), red (battery positive), and white (NTC thermistor between black and white, if I recall correctly, but check yours to be sure). As simply one cell comprises its battery, it can be re-celled fairly easily. This battery is discussed in some detail, with pictures, on iLounge. (Topic: Logitech mm50 & Pure Fi anywhere batteries) Logitech mm50 has an inlet for an external power supply. Its power plug is a coaxial barrel, outer diameter 3.5 mm, inner diameter 1.1 mm (approximate), insertion depth 8 mm. (You might scavenge a perfect replacement barrel plug from Nokia equipment.) Its original power supply is nominal 12 VDC, 1.5 A, centre positive. If you are looking to make a replacement power supply (repurpose an AC adapter...
Réponse à : « Can I make MagSafe2 to MagSafe1 converter? »Yes, but, it seems to me, Apple's MagSafe 2 Power Adapters are more discriminating (than Apple's MagSafe "1" Power Adapters) of when to switch-on their output. Aftermarket and counterfeit power supplies which are "always on" (always supplying "running" output potential, rather than a very low potential (to prevent sparking) during no-load state) will work. MagSafe 2 uses same ID data structure as MagSafe 1, so older MacBooks can recognise and accept MagSafe 2 power supplies. I made a MagSafe 2 to MagSafe 1 converter. It works. Another idea is to grind a MagSafe bit, to make it match the intersection of MagSafe bit shapes 1 and 2, which I attempted: I ground a MagSafe 2 bit to turn it into a MagSafe Intersection bit. To test, I tried to use it with a MacBookPro7,1 (13-inch, Mid 2010) and with a MacBookPro6,1 (17-inch, Mid-2010). (If I had access to other MacBooks which have MagSafe 1 inlet, then I would have liked to try it with them.) My 60W A1435 Power Adapter works with both MacBookPro6,1 and...
Réponse à : « Replacing a Magsafe "L" connector with a "T" connector »From your description, I guess you have a defective replacement MagSafe connector. In a proper working MagSafe connector, indicator lights are OFF while not connected to MacBook.
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