Thank you for this guide. I have started on it and realize that doing this job could mean I can’t use the car for weeks at a time. That’s because if I do not buy parts ahead of time (which does make sense) and tear everything apart to diagnose it, well then I’m waiting a long time for parts before putting it all back together again. I’ve discovered I have a lock side leak— probably on driver side because driver passenger door was only door that didn’t lock during lock test from valve under hood— but I don’t want to buy the vacuum switch and actuators and so on before taking apart the doors and floors and checking. Then, of course, I have all that taken apart waiting for parts. :) Or maybe I’m getting something wrong.
Thank you. The one on my car says 15 x 23, and it's Cohline. I looked it up and it's a fuel hose, so someone may have used that. I'll try the one you recommend. For now, tightening the clamp has stopped the leak, but, as that came out of nowhere, I suspect the hose may go soon.
Thank you for this. I think this is my problem, and it's a relief, since I thought it was a transmission leak.
Two questions: 1) Any reason I have to have the braided hose if the psi rating is the same? The braided hose is much more expensive. 2) What size is the hose? You don't mention and I have to order it. (Your link on this page to buy the hose doesn't go anywhere.) Autozone's website thinks it's 7/16 or 9/16, yet the forums I looked at think it's 12mm.
Question: Why do I need to jack up the car? Can't I just turn the wheels with the tires on the ground?
Lorsqu'il en aura reçu, il pourra afficher un graphique de sa réputation au fil du temps.
Voici un aperçu de ce à quoi ressemble ce graphique :
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