You need to find the manufacturer and model number of the keyboard, not the laptop. Laptop makers usually don't make keyboards themselves but buy ones from other manufacturers. You will have to open up the laptop and pop the keyboard out. In some laptops the keyboard can be removed without opening the laptop, in others you have to undo a few keyboard specific screws (marked as such on the case). Find the Repair/Service Manual for this laptop, those usually contain instructions on how to remove the keyboard. With the model and manufacturer, you can continue your search to find the pinout.

Not sure if this will help, but there is a partial teardown of these here: Bose QuietComfort 35 PARTIAL Teardown Does it take the dismantling deep enough for you to get to the cable you need to inspect?

The basics on how a mouse button works in most is is that the plastic button of the upper part of the mouse presses down on a microswitch that sits on a PCB inside the mouse. There can be two initial possible causes for this: (1) A fault in the microswitch that is under the left button. They are rated for a lot of clicks, but eventually they will wear out. (2) Another possible cause is that the plastics of the mouse may be broken inside and it may not be hitting the microswitch properly anymore. A good way to check is to open the mouse and inspect the left and right sides if there are any visual differences, or if you see any broken plastic parts or wear, or if directly pressing the microswitches feels different. While there are no guides specific to this mouse, there a scroll wheel guide, but it will at least show you how to open the mouse and take a look inside: Logitech G305 Scroll Wheel Replacement The buttons are in the upper part of the mouse casing, the bottom part of the mouse contains the main PCB...

There are two possible reasons for this happening. (1) The hardware is physically damaged. The USB port that sticks out could have gotten partially disconnected from the PCB inside. So it's losing connection under its own weight. The only way to make sure is to open it up and check if the USB port part is still connected properly to the PCB inside, (2) The controller chip inside on the PCB is broken. This is harder to diagnose without special measuring and testing. If it is broken, a donor USB stick of the same model could be used to swap parts. This would require de-soldering and soldering of usually pretty small parts. What you can try is connect it to a different USB port in your PC or a different computer entirely to see if the behavior is the same.

Quick check:: Initially, you could check if the disc budges at all inside the slot when the drive is trying to eject it. Shine a light and take a look. This is to make sure the disc isn't bumping against the inside of the iMac's or the drive's casing. Thorough check:: Seeing as you already followed steps to remove a disc manually, you probably have taken the drive out of the iMac and opened the drive itself. I suggest running the drive while it is outside the Mac and with its (the drive's) covers off. I am not familiar enough with that model iMac to tell you how to do this. All you need is a way to power the drive outside the iMac and make it eject. Once you can see inside the drive, attempt to eject and observe what it is doing. Usually drives like these have a small motor that is tasked with lowering/moving the spindle the disc is sitting on and pushing the disc out. From your description, the motor is working, but some part it uses to push the disc with, might be stuck. Hope this helps.